S2000 minor modification

[VTECBOY]

Hi guys,

I would just like to hear what type of modifications you guys (being S2000 owners) would recommend if you wanted to enhance the performance of the 2K without spending alot of $$$.

Let me know if the question is too vague :)

[CUL8R]

the s2k is so highly engineered that theres nothing cheap thatll give u any gains.

[ROLLED]

you can't really, the cheapest thing u can do is get the resonator taken out of the exhaust, gives the exhaust a new tone and its actually quite loud from outside of the car!

[VTECBOY]

ok what i mean is using about $5K

i dont mean broke type of not spending much $$$

[Ferrari]

Changing the diff ratio, to a 4.57 gear, is a good bang for buck mod.

Changing the flywheel.

X brace

And make it some 15-20 kilos lighter by fitting a titanium exhaust.

Making it lighter is best, for NA, thats what the J's racing car essentially is, stripped put, racing seats with a new diff ratio, exhaust, ECU, and manifold.

[ROLLED]

save another 3k, and get urself a supercharger!

[CUL8R]

or buy the headers and Intake from ap f20c something arother
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50825

[WhiteAP1]

Ive actually applied these modifications,or im in the middle of doing so. An exhaust is a good start but without headers or intake and a tune,i doubt u'll feel much of a difference,i got a bit more throttle response with the Fujitsubo Legalis R,but that was comming from and oversized system. So dont expect a night and day difference coming from a standard sytem.

Installing the new clutch kit was a worthwhile improvement. The lighter flywheel really makes a difference, quite noticably increasing response below Vtec and making 6K RPM + much more agressive. U may read that a lighter flywheel is a disadvantage uphill, it may be on paper,i have yet to tell the difference between my TODA and the OEM.

The whiteline x brace is good, better turn in, cancels out alot of the chasis flex,but ive just found out Cusco make a full lower body "U" shape chasis brace,might be a little bit of over kill,but what a job it would do. End of the day it depends what u want out of the car. Although the Cusco brace is a bit more hardcore, the whiteline brace suits me fine.

Coil overs really make the most of the cars standard rigidity and balance, this was the second thing i did, and if i knew how well it worked it would have been the first. The tein flex set up is very versatile and makes the car so much more fun to drive,also mountain driving is easier and faster. Again turn in increases dramatically and so does the cars overall stability.

Now onto final drive. Ive purchase the crown and pinion (4.625) and on monday it will begin cyro treatement, should take about 7 days. This is hands down best bang for buck NA mod. While it doesnt increase power what so ever, it pretty much multiplies the cars tourque, gets the car through the rev range a hell of a lot quicker. U will lose top speed (with the ratio ive selected top speed will now be approx 240km instead of 260km) but for my use this will not be a problem. And yes in some speed ranges,u'll be a little slower than standard s2k, ie:60-70 approx, because u'll now be changing gears then, so in turn when a standard car has to change gears u'll be faster in that bracket,also considering all the more tourque u now have, u'll be faster than the standard overall, until obvioulsy u hit ure limited top speed. So in all its a damn good improvement on paper and not to mention the reviews in S2ki.com Theres also a video demonstating the difference,it is quite impressive and thats with a 4.57. Speedo re-calibration is needed,it can befixed with a calibration unit quite easily,Most ppl use yellowbox and yellowjacket.VDO also make a unit.

Ive put a deposit down on TODA headers and the CF Mugen intake. Also I'll shortly be buying a Greddy emanage. These final modifications should increase power leaving me with about 145-150 rwkw.

If uve got 5k to spend i'd recomend clutch kit approx $1500 installed, final drive aprox $2k installed depending on what and where u buy, and suspension 1500-2500 for a good street set (cheapies are about $1500 D2 coilovers made in taiwan, Teins start from $2200 or so, or u could go Bilsteins $4-6k. They would probably be the most worthwhile and notciable mods.

In the end it depends what u want out of the car, like ROLLED said, save up a little more and get a supercharger kit. This is the easiest way to get a very impressive performance gain. The thing is if ure gonna spend 5K spend a little more and build a complete package,no point leaving it half done.

Also Have read of these posts, this should also help.


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19307 (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19307)


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48907 (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48907)

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45274

[jko2]

I've done a few.
Apexi N1 exhaust, now put back to standard as it got too loud with my new final drive drone - anyway, all I could really say about the N1 is that is sounds awesome, I miss it, great to on the race track - supposedly mid - top end performance increase, but you can't really notce it - or at least I didn't

Spoon intake - the snorkel, good very good, no disadvantages here, if you can pick it up cheap (as it probably really doesn't do much either). I've paired it with a K&N filter

I went 4.8kg exedy flywheel - revs a bit quicker - but quite disappointing really, compared to the B series engines that spin up somethign chronic when you get a light flywheel.

so... then I got a 3.3kg aluminium fidanza flywheel - revs a littel bit more quicker, still disappointing :(

then I did a 4.44 final drive with a kaaz diff. the final drive was disappoitning, shouldn't took johns advice and went the 4.62.. however I do do heaps of high driving so it's not all bad. it does accelerate quicker, goes up hills so easily now, and generally more tractable. kaaz LSD is awesome though for stability:)

wheels I did, for bling, keep it light so the bling doesn't stuff your car up.

and... just did the whitelight xbrace last night. what can I say? probably doesn't make the turn in sharper, but definately reduces flex whilst turning in so it certainly feels that way. overall makes the car more solid - very worthwhile for hte money you pay and install time.

er, sounds system! good one to do, i did purple cadence splits with a small amp, stock headunit, jsut good enough for the car and top down music.

after all that, I reckon you're safe to leave it stock, maintain your resale value, and you won't go broke trying to make it better when it does so little... I've come from a turbo background (all cars prev where some sort of nissan turbo)... so... I guess modifying this car turns out to be just as satisfying as iching my balls.

[BRU51N]

u could go with an intake for the pure sound of the engine. u'd probably lose power though.. the car itself has been tuned to perfection.

ive just got and intake and cat back apexi n1, and coilovers. handles like a dream... only thing it lacks is power

[RyDC5S]

Ive actually applied these modifications,or im in the middle of doing so. An exhaust is a good start but without headers or intake and a tune,i doubt u'll feel much of a difference,i got a bit more throttle response,but that was comming from and oversized system. So dont expect a night and day difference coming from a standard sytem.

Installing the new clutch kit was a worthwhile improvement. The lighter flywheel really makes a difference, quite noticably increasing response below Vtec and making 6K RPM + much more agressive. U may read that a lighter flywheel is a disadvantage uphill, it may be on paper,i have yet to tell the difference between my TODA and the OEM.

The whiteline x brace is good, better turn in, cancels out alot of the chasis flex,but ive just found out Cusco make a full lower body "U" shape chasis brace,might be a little bit of over kill,but what a job it would do. End of the day it depends what u want out of the car. Although the Cusco brace is a bit more hardcore, the whiteline brace suits me fine.

Coil overs really make the most of the cars standard rigidity and balance, this was the second thing i did, and if i knew how well it worked it would have been the first. The tein flex set up is very versatile and makes the car so much more fun to drive,also mountain driving is easier and faster. Again turn in increases dramatically and so does the cars overall stability.

Now onto final drive. Ive purchase the crown and pinion (4.625) and on monday it will begin cyro treatement, should take about 7 days. This is hands down best bang for buck NA mod. While it doesnt increase power what so ever, it pretty much multiplies the cars tourque, gets the car through the rev range a hell of a lot quicker. U will lose top speed (with the ratio ive selected top speed will now be approx 240km instead of 260km) but for my use this will not be a problem. And yes in some speed ranges,u'll be a little slower than standard s2k, ie:60-70 approx, because u'll now be changing gears then, so in turn when a standard car has to change gears u'll be faster in that bracket,also considering all the more tourque u now have, u'll be faster than the standard overall, until obvioulsy u hit ure limited top speed. So in all its a damn good improvement on paper and not to mention the reviews in S2ki.com Theres also a video demonstating the difference,it is quite impressive and thats with a 4.57. Speedo re-calibration is needed,it can befixed with a calibration unit quite easily,Most ppl use yellowbox and yellowjacket.VDO also make a unit.

Ive put a deposit down on TODA headers and the CF Mugen intake. Also I'll shortly be buying a Greddy emanage. These final modifications should increase power leaving me with about 145-150 rwkw.

If uve got 5k to spend i'd recomend clutch kit approx $1500 installed, final drive aprox $2k installed depending on what and where u buy, and suspension 1500-2500 for a good street set (cheapies are about $1500 D2 coilovers made in taiwan, Teins start from $2200 or so, or u could go Bilsteins $4-6k. They would probably be the most worthwhile and notciable mods.

In the end it depends what u want out of the car, like ROLLED said, save up a little more and get a supercharger kit. This is the easiest way to get a very impressive performance gain. The thing is if ure gonna spend 5K spend a little more and build a complete package,no point leaving it half done.

Also Have read of these posts, this should also help.


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19307 (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19307)


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48907 (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48907)

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45274


This is quite really useful information! I'm currently looking for a second hand S2K and I was just doing the ad-hoc research on what others have done so far.

[WhiteAP1]

I try, If ure after any other info regarding other parts/mods or even interested in FI, just search S2ki.com. They have extensive info on pretty much anything.

I also forgot to mention cooling. I purchased the Mugen thermostat,fan switch and radiator cap. The cap is 1.3 instead of 1.1 and the others start working much ealier and better in the cars intial cycle. This is meant to prevent heat bog in high temps (as many of u would notice the slugish behavior of the car on a hot day). The S2k has a temp sensor. It decreases a percentage of power, in realtion to every degree, over the temp limit (to avoid any damage) These three small mods will highly decrease the likely hood of this happening,so u can maximise the cars potential anytime. Also because the thermostat opens earlier, the car warms up to 3 bars faster. Highly recomended for an Australian summer. About $230-250 for the trio. Other may say to forget this and just change the radiator. OEM radiator is fine IMO. Ive read of ppl using the standard radiator with a supercharger and no intercooler, all day, in hot track conditions. They ran constant times.

[hondaboy]

NA mods provide slight power gains but negligible torque gains. Best to go FI on the s2k for substantial power/torque gains.

[WhiteAP1]

FI is certainly easier, and will give excelent results. It really is best bang for buck (eg: $8k for FI vs $8k NA) but i wouldnt call it a minor modification. Also not all NA mods provide slight power gains. U can get substantial power figures but it requires changing internals (stoker kit,pistons,rods....etc) it can be a bit extensive compared to strapping on a turbo or a superchrger kit. Theres a 2.5 litre project being followed on Honda-tech ATM, hes got about 190 rwkw and hes not finished. Hes still got to change cams,tune and a few other final tweaks.

Some ppl look at the car and think, how can i make it faster. Easiest answer is bolt on a huffer. Others like myself bought the car b/c its NA and wish to keep that characteristic. (for whatever reason) Personally i would have bought and FD rx7 if i wanted a turbo or big power. If i manage 145-150 rwkws i'll be happy, im not expecting more than that. I'd be a fool to think a few NA mods will light up the dyno. Best ive seen (actually seen) was Chasers S2000 with 167 rwkws, 2 litre still with basic internals.

[zerospel]

Hi White AP1

Can you tell us the exact name for the cooling system that you mentioned
thermostat, fan switch and cap - what brand are those and where would I be able to buy them?

Seems pretty good for not much money...

And did you buy the toda clutch and flywheel kit that comes together? does it have clutch buzz?

Thanks
:honda:

[WhiteAP1]

All three are made by Mugen, not to sure where u could get them in sydney,but they wouldnt be hard to source.

No the kit doesnt have a buzz......its more of a drone. LOL its a noisy prick due to the TODA Disc have more springs. Got use to it in a few days.

[zerospel]

Can you please explain to me the difference between 1.1 and 1.3 radiator cap and how that would help the cooling? :confused:

:honda: :wave: :honda:

[WhiteAP1]

The cap is presurised at 1.3 instead of 1.1. Basically with a higher pressure, it would take a higher temperature to make the coolant boil.

[VTECBOY]

thanks guys

just what is was after :)

[ROLLED]

I try, If ure after any other info regarding other parts/mods or even interested in FI, just search S2ki.com. They have extensive info on pretty much anything.

I also forgot to mention cooling. I purchased the Mugen thermostat,fan switch and radiator cap. The cap is 1.3 instead of 1.1 and the others start working much ealier and better in the cars intial cycle. This is meant to prevent heat bog in high temps (as many of u would notice the slugish behavior of the car on a hot day). The S2k has a temp sensor. It decreases a percentage of power, in realtion to every degree, over the temp limit (to avoid any damage) These three small mods will highly decrease the likely hood of this happening,so u can maximise the cars potential anytime. Also because the thermostat opens earlier, the car warms up to 3 bars faster. Highly recomended for an Australian summer. About $230-250 for the trio. Other may say to forget this and just change the radiator. OEM radiator is fine IMO. Ive read of ppl using the standard radiator with a supercharger and no intercooler, all day, in hot track conditions. They ran constant times.


In regards to the thermostat,fan switch and radiator cap, have you noticed a considerable difference when its been hot?

[WhiteAP1]

There have been a few days recently that did put this to the test. I do a lot of freeway driving and it always would bog down and be really sluggish just after i would exit the freeway. In some instances ive even down geared and put my foot down and have gone nowhere. I find now (in the few warm days we've had) the same response is always there, no bogging on take off before or after freeway driving. The real test will be in the more warmer months and on the track. If ure after more info than i can give........s2ki.com ;)