Euro Front Brake Disc Warping Issue

[Hoffy]

I've had a problem with my disc rotors from before 20k mark where the steering wheel shaked when applying the brakes lightly at speeds above 40km/h. The rotors were machined at 20k service but it had returned by 30K. The strange thing was that it got worse when the discs were hot and in hot weather like last weekend in Sydney. I finally got sick of it when trying to go around a corner a bit fast and the shaking affected the stability in the corner. I nearly shit myself as there was a concrete barrier on the outside of the corner. Took it back to the dealer today and just found out the they are going to replace the rotors and pads under warranty :thumbsup: . Not bad seeing that the pads probably needed replacing anyhow :) .

Not sure if anyone else has experienced this problem. If you do, push for it to be fixed under warranty.

[Eurotony]

I had exactly the same issue last year. Had the disc's machined first, then when the problem returned both the disc's & pads were replaced under warranty. No issue's with the brake performance since then.

[aaronng]

Be gentle when running in the new discs and pads. Then you'll be less likely to get rotor warp later on. But this issue is reported by many TSX owners in the US. Good job on getting it replaced! :thumbsup:

[yfin]

hey hoffy - auto cars are at more risk of warping rotors as you are on the brakes more often. Driving style also makes a big difference. It always shi*s me when I see people on their brakes from the top of a mountain like Mt Buller right to the bottom (even around corners). This usually follows a visit to a dealer when the brakes are warped. I am not saying you are doing this - just be conscious as to how long you are on the brake pedal unnecessarily.

[Victor1982]

I got the same problem too. my car just done 23ks.... the dealer told me they will machine it. how can I convience them to change it ???

[EuroAccord13]

I got the same problem too. my car just done 23ks.... the dealer told me they will machine it. how can I convience them to change it ???

It's hard especially when it comes to dealing with the dealership, they will only change it if the discs are warped beyond machining...

Machining will generally be enough to fix the irritating screeches.....

[Victor1982]

It's hard especially when it comes to dealing with the dealership, they will only change it if the discs are warped beyond machining...

Machining will generally be enough to fix the irritating screeches.....

Thanks mate... I will let them do that first.

[jamchen]

well... its not the problem only on euros... our mdx also has the same problem... i initially thought they faded coz it was firstly happenedwhen i was stuck in city traffic with rapid brakings...
however this shaking thing remains for a while so had the dealer checked at 40k service and they said they were defective and changed the front set of rotors...
but few months after that the problem occurs again.. and this time i CBF to bring it back to dealers... and i decided to buy a set of slotted and drilled rotors off ebay... they said they were brembo and they were flat from brembo and they slotted and drilled them...
but since then... i dun have any single problem with the rotors... even after a few heavy braking.. no fading or shaking what so ever,...:D

[stalin]

hoffy and anyone else , did you had to take a log book with you when they changed it for you?? i have problem like that (not as much scary) but i left log book in melb last month..and wasn't planning going there till june..so is it possible for me to go there without the book?..thx

[Matell]

I suggest you have a look at the surface of your rotors. Look for thumb-print sized smears approx 1/2-2/3's the way out from the edge of the hub. These are uneven brake pad deposits and in my case caused viscious vibrations.

Several other more experienced persons than I on other forums also concurr that this is the cause of your vibrations and not rotor warp. Either jack your car, remove the wheel, and sand both front and rear disk faces smooth, or purchase some aggressive pads. Follow the normal bedding in procedure and you'll find that these harder pads will shear the offending old pad material off as the rotor heats.

Rotor warp from daily driving is very unlikely. It's most likely youve done a few hard and hot stops and held the pedal down. This will bake the fairly soft OEM pad material onto the surface, as will the action of the ABS pulsing the pad onto a hot rotor (hence the thumb-print sized series of marks).

If you feel this is beyond your limits by all means get the stealer to sort it out for you.

[Hoffy]

hoffy and anyone else , did you had to take a log book with you when they changed it for you?? i have problem like that (not as much scary) but i left log book in melb last month..and wasn't planning going there till june..so is it possible for me to go there without the book?..thx
I have always had the car serviced by the same dealer so it's has not been an issue with warranty. I cannot see how a dealer could refuse it as they should be able to look up your details through Honda as well as tell from the year and mileage of the car as to whether it is till under warranty. You can always call the dealer and ask them when you are booking the car in.

[Hoffy]

I suggest you have a look at the surface of your rotors. Look for thumb-print sized smears approx 1/2-2/3's the way out from the edge of the hub. These are uneven brake pad deposits and in my case caused viscious vibrations.

Several other more experienced persons than I on other forums also concurr that this is the cause of your vibrations and not rotor warp. Either jack your car, remove the wheel, and sand both front and rear disk faces smooth, or purchase some aggressive pads. Follow the normal bedding in procedure and you'll find that these harder pads will shear the offending old pad material off as the rotor heats.

Rotor warp from daily driving is very unlikely. It's most likely youve done a few hard and hot stops and held the pedal down. This will bake the fairly soft OEM pad material onto the surface, as will the action of the ABS pulsing the pad onto a hot rotor (hence the thumb-print sized series of marks).

If you feel this is beyond your limits by all means get the stealer to sort it out for you.
I did have a quick look at the rotors last weekend but did not notice anything like you mentioned. Unfortunately I just dropped the car off this morning to have the work done. Will never be able to tell now.

[wynode]

Warping is generally caused by not allowing your brakes to cool down properly after using the brakes alot (during spirited driving).

Sudden changes from hot/cold and keeping your foot on the brake (or handbrake) after a spirited drive can also cause warping.

[Hoffy]

Warping is generally caused by not allowing your brakes to cool down properly after using the brakes alot (during spirited driving).

Sudden changes from hot/cold and keeping your foot on the brake (or handbrake) after a spirited drive can also cause warping.
The strange thing is that I have been much more agressive with previous cars, both manual and auto and this is the first time ever that I have had any rotor problems. This is the first time I have ever got more that 30K out of a set of tyres so I'm not to heavy with the Euro. At this rate I should be getting over 40K from them. I must be getting old :( I had a 5.7l Berlina as a company car and replaced the first set of tyres at 17K. They weren't happy with me but hey it was my first V8 and I went a but nuts not to mention the stock tyres were crap and totally unsuitable for the power of a V8. So many people having this problem can not be put down to driving habbits alone.

[BiLL|z0r]

At the rate I'm driving my Euro will need tyres after about 16-17K :(

[wynode]

The strange thing is that I have been much more agressive with previous cars, both manual and auto and this is the first time ever that I have had any rotor problems. This is the first time I have ever got more that 30K out of a set of tyres so I'm not to heavy with the Euro. At this rate I should be getting over 40K from them. I must be getting old :( I had a 5.7l Berlina as a company car and replaced the first set of tyres at 17K. They weren't happy with me but hey it was my first V8 and I went a but nuts not to mention the stock tyres were crap and totally unsuitable for the power of a V8. So many people having this problem can not be put down to driving habbits alone.
Not saying it is/isn't your fault....just saying the most common reason for rotor warping.

[Tobster]

The other thing is that the Euro actually has quite large disk rotors compared to many cars. A little bit of warp on a small disk isn't as noticable as it is on a big disk...

[REV888]

At the rate I'm driving my Euro will need tyres after about 16-17K :(


LOL I almost done 22K and my tyres have around 2mm of tread left. Where I live theres a big winding hill and like taking it head on!

Crossing my fingers they will last to 30K. From there will change to Yoko C drive.

[Eurotony]

The strange thing is that I have been much more agressive with previous cars, both manual and auto and this is the first time ever that I have had any rotor problems. This is the first time I have ever got more that 30K out of a set of tyres so I'm not to heavy with the Euro. At this rate I should be getting over 40K from them. I must be getting old :( I had a 5.7l Berlina as a company car and replaced the first set of tyres at 17K. They weren't happy with me but hey it was my first V8 and I went a but nuts not to mention the stock tyres were crap and totally unsuitable for the power of a V8. So many people having this problem can not be put down to driving habbits alone.
I got 50k out of my original tyres so I don't think that wearing your tyres out early is a sign that you are going to warp your disc's. I would suggest that there is/has been a problem with Euro front disc's warping because it seems that it has happened to just more than one or two of us.
Disc warping generaly occurs due to a sudden change of temprature in the disc. How many of us have hosed the car when washing it & sprayed the wheels & steam has risen from the brakes. Something as simple as that can be the cause. In my case I can't explain, nor can the dealer for that matter, what caused the disc's to warp.
I would suggest that the Euro has a tendancy for warping that Honda by now are aware of & will have addressed with different disc materials.
Eurotony

[yfin]

. I would suggest that there is/has been a problem with Euro front disc's warping because it seems that it has happened to just more than one or two of us.

Keep in mind though that Honda has sold over 15,000 Euros in Australia. I have only seen a couple of people report an issue with warping on the internet so lets keep it in perspective.

[Omotesando]

Haha my theory is one in a while I just go at really high speeds and then brake hard a fair few times to even out everything and also get rid of the existing pad deposits on the discs. But don't do this all the way to a full stop, don't really want the ABS kicking in.


But like someone said when you let the discs cool down again, don't put on the brakes. If you really need to stop at the lights, pulling the handbrake on will only affect the rear discs, but these won't be anywhere near as hot as the front discs after heavy braking so not as likely to warp from temp difference.


I drive the Euro not as crazy as some do, but still enthuasistically :)

[EuroAccord13]

Ok here's something I do from time to time, I remove the calipers and use a sandpaper to sand through the disc...

It's a good thing to do me thinks....

[wynode]

Sanding with sandpaper won't get rid of the warping properly :)

[aaronng]

It's to sand off the material transfer that gets to the disc from the pads when you have a hot rotor and keep pressing the pad against the hot surface. You don't really get rotor warpage unless you pour water on your hot discs (so many people in malaysia do this after coming downhill. HAHAHAHAHAH :D )

[olda]

The strange thing is that I have been much more agressive with previous cars, both manual and auto and this is the first time ever that I have had any rotor problems. This is the first time I have ever got more that 30K out of a set of tyres so I'm not to heavy with the Euro. At this rate I should be getting over 40K from them. I must be getting old :( I had a 5.7l Berlina as a company car and replaced the first set of tyres at 17K. They weren't happy with me but hey it was my first V8 and I went a but nuts not to mention the stock tyres were crap and totally unsuitable for the power of a V8. So many people having this problem can not be put down to driving habbits alone.

Warping of brake rotors as described by several of you guys on this thread, is not normal.
It looks very much like an engineering design issue and should be addressed by HMCA ASAP.
People affected should write a formal letter of complaint to HMCA.
My 2 cents worth...............:cool:

[fraqqie]

I just wanted to clarify this... when the steering wheel shakes when you step on the brakes, it basically its starts changing directions sporadically am i right?

it tahts so... might have to say hello to Mr Honda sometime soon >.<

[Hoffy]

I just wanted to clarify this... when the steering wheel shakes when you step on the brakes, it basically its starts changing directions sporadically am i right?

it tahts so... might have to say hello to Mr Honda sometime soon >.<
The steering wheel shakes from side to side a few milimetres, similar to if your front wheels are out of balance at high speed except on when braking. It does not cause the steering wheel to turn and the car to move, although the shaking in my case made corning at speed with the foot on the brake a bit freeky. It seems that also the front wheels are shaking and affecting the handling in the corner.

[fraqqie]

i get ya :thumbsup:

when i stop at the lights, the steering wheel would turn and i would have to put a fair bit of counterin force so it'll stop in a straight line rather than next to someone else's car

i have no idea whats happening though... i'll be doing a front brake change soon

hope that'll take care of it

[panda[cRx]]

I've had a problem with my disc rotors from before 20k mark where the steering wheel shaked when applying the brakes lightly at speeds above 40km/h. The rotors were machined at 20k service but it had returned by 30K. The strange thing was that it got worse when the discs were hot and in hot weather like last weekend in Sydney. I finally got sick of it when trying to go around a corner a bit fast and the shaking affected the stability in the corner. I nearly shit myself as there was a concrete barrier on the outside of the corner. Took it back to the dealer today and just found out the they are going to replace the rotors and pads under warranty :thumbsup: . Not bad seeing that the pads probably needed replacing anyhow :) .

Not sure if anyone else has experienced this problem. If you do, push for it to be fixed under warranty.

i didn't read anything but the first post but brake shudder with the euro's is a semi-common problem, honda knows it too (same with vti accords too)

should be no problem under warranty to replace the pads and machine the discs for you:thumbsup:


(i didn't say that lol:zip: )

[aaronng]

I think the shudder/vibration through the brake pedal comes from deposits on the rotors. After a hard stop at the traffic lights, you'll get super hot rotors. And what does one do at the lights? Sit with their foot on the brake! Since our pads are now non-asbestos and also non-carbon metallic (for race pads only), we get the stuff slightly softening and transferring onto the rotor!

Then, to fix it we all get our rotors machined and then the warping happens. One bad thing about machining the discs on the TSX (and hence Euro) is that they warp very easily and quickly after that.

I think that the initial problem is not rotor warpage, but after getting it machined, it really does end up warping. For those with shuddering through the brake pedal and have NOT machined their rotors, try doing a semi-hard stop from 80km/h to clear up the deposits. Remember, after stopping, take your foor off the brake pedal! Drive around to cool the rotors down and see if your shuddering is gone.

[panda[cRx]]

I think that the initial problem is not rotor warpage, but after getting it machined, it really does end up warping. For those with shuddering through the brake pedal and have NOT machined their rotors, try doing a semi-hard stop from 80km/h to clear up the deposits. Remember, after stopping, take your foor off the brake pedal! Drive around to cool the rotors down and see if your shuddering is gone.

well aaron it's a fairly common problem like i said. i'm pretty sure if you asked any honda service dept they would confirm this.

i was actually talking to our foreman at work about this (#1 honda tech in aus)
and he said that the pads retained too much heat thus causing the discs to warp.
so after the machining and the new pads it's all fine.:thumbsup:

occaisionally some customers get a shudder for a couple of days but it's just the pads/discs settling in and it goes after 2-3 days

[Eurotony]

Hi Guys

Has anyone ele had any issue's with the front Disc's warping. My MY 04 lux auto has had the front disc's & pads replaced at 40k & now at 82k I have the same issue.
Is this a problem with the Euro or is it my driving style? The only thing that I can think off that may cause a heat sink issue is that when you pull up at lights, you tend to leave your foot on the brakes all the time in an auto to stop creeping forward. I'm wondering if that may have something to do with it. I certainly don't drive the car hard though, so I'm thinking it's the car & not me.
Would really like to hear what others have experienced. I know it has been mentioned before, but I can't find a specific thread in the search function. I'm having the car serviced tomorrow morning & have asked the dealer to fix it then.
Cheers
Eurotony:confused: :confused:

[BiLL|z0r]

I'm now getting the same thing at 26K. I searched and found this thread:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38787

It's only minor atm + I need a wheel rebalance anyway. At my 30K service I'll have them machine the discs to start with and take it from there.

[yfin]

Posted by JEFF on Temple of Vtec in response to a warping on TSX question

Source: http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-message?message_id=381567

...

I can almost guarantee it's just the (OEM) brake pads. My TSX is driven fairly lightly (about 7500miles/year) and it did the same thing. The brakes felt okay (key word) most of the time, but if I was on the freeway and got into them moderately from a decent speed (say, 80mph) there was quite a bit of a wobble felt through the steering wheel (it was also somewhat audible). I recently replaced the pads with some Axxis Ultimates and immediately there was a huge improvement.

Basically what's happening is that the OEM pads have some compound that leaves some deposits on the rotors. And if you don't drive your car frequently, the pads even seem to harden or glaze somewhat and your braking power diminishes over time and the likelihood of experiencing the "wobble" seems to increas greatly.

When we first installed the Axxis ultimate pads, I immediately sensed that they pads were much better suited to the sporty nature of the TSX than the stock pads. Stopping power is immensely improved over the "hardened" stock pads that were on my car. It's far better than even fresh stock pads. Additionally, these pads "bite" hard into the rotors, to the point that they pretty much cleaned off all the deposits that the stock pads left on the rotors and there was an immediately noticeably improvement in the "brake wobble" problem. With more miles on the pads, they seem to have worn completely through whatever deposits were on the rotors, so there's absolutely no trace of any brake wobble now. I was thinking of getting new rotors and installing them when I changed the pads, but now I'm glad I didn't.

So while many people would automatically assume that the rotors are warped when they feel like mine did, I can tell you that it very likely isn't the case, and all you need are some more aggressive pads.

There are two downsides to the pads. And one of them is an extremely minor one. The most noticeable drawback is that they dust quite a bit more than stock. If you want the finish on your wheels to remain in good shape, you WILL have to clean the dust off more frequently. At least twice as frequently as normal. And the 2nd issue is so minor I almost hesitate to mention it, but I have noticed a very minor squeal at low speeds, but it's so infrequent and mild you may not notice it. I really only started noticing it once when I was pulling up to a drive-thru teller at the bank with the window down. Since then I've listened more closely and it doesn't always happen and with the windows up you will rarely notice it. But in my opinion, the benefits of these pads far outweigh these slight drawbacks. There is so much more braking power available (hopefully you have some tires that can take advantage of the added braking capacity) and there is no wobble (or rotor "warp") whatsoever!

***

Also see this article by Temple of VTEC http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-article?article_id=493583&page_number=4

It's Time to Rethink the Brake Pads
One item that has escaped Acura's attention is the TSX's brakes. We're going to be brutally honest: the stock brake pads are pretty bad. The feel is okay, but they provide somewhat weak stopping power and are prone to overheating easily (particularly when slowing from freeway speeds). When they overheat, they tend to leave deposits on the rotors, which can lead to a very noticeable and irritating brake shudder. Many people misdiagnose this problem as rotor warpage, but as we proved on our own car, it's really the stock pads chubbing the rotors. It only took a few thousand miles for this problem to appear on our TSX project car, and these were very gentle miles. While the symptoms felt almost exactly like rotor warpage, we decided to swap out the stock pads for some more aggressive aftermarket pads, and the results were simply astounding. Without any rotor resurfacing, the brake shudder and wobble disappeared almost immediately, and within a few days of normal driving, all of the OEM pad deposits were wiped clean from the rotors. To this day, there has been absolutely no brake shudder and brake fade is a thing of the past. Even more impressively, the car has benefitted from a tremendous improvement in braking power. The only downside to this pad upgrade is that the new pads will squeak in very rare circumstances and they generate appreciably more brake dust than the stock pads. Otherwise they are one of the biggest "bang for the buck" modifications out there for the TSX and we highly recommend it. We installed Axxis Ultimates on our TSX, but similar results are likely with any number of other aftermarket fitments.

[aaronng]

Is this a problem with the Euro or is it my driving style? The only thing that I can think off that may cause a heat sink issue is that when you pull up at lights, you tend to leave your foot on the brakes all the time in an auto to stop creeping forward. I'm wondering if that may have something to do with it. I certainly don't drive the car hard though, so I'm thinking it's the car & not me.
If you brake from 80 to 0, and then at the stop lights leave it in D, then you would have to hold the brakes down to stop the car from moving. Hot discs/pads + pressure = deposits. Euro's pads easily leaves deposits like yfin posted. Try my hard braking from 100 to 20, and then drive around to cool down without using brakes. It should fix the shudder.

[Eurotony]

Hi Guys

Has anyone ele had any issue's with the front Disc's warping. My MY 04 lux auto has had the front disc's & pads replaced at 40k & now at 82k I have the same issue.
Is this a problem with the Euro or is it my driving style? The only thing that I can think off that may cause a heat sink issue is that when you pull up at lights, you tend to leave your foot on the brakes all the time in an auto to stop creeping forward. I'm wondering if that may have something to do with it. I certainly don't drive the car hard though, so I'm thinking it's the car & not me.
Would really like to hear what others have experienced. I know it has been mentioned before, but I can't find a specific thread in the search function. I'm having the car serviced tomorrow morning & have asked the dealer to fix it then.
Cheers
Eurotony:confused: :confused:

Update
Picked up the car from the dealer this afternoon after the 80k service. Brand new disc rotors & pads replaced under warranty. No questions asked. They acknowledge that it is a known problem with the Euro, but as far as they know my car is the first car to come back with a repeat dose.
:thumbsup: Southside Honda

[BiLL|z0r]

Has any1 had their discs machined under wty yet? I'm assuming the dealer is going to try that first before replacing them.

[PERTH_EURO]

Just got mine machined at 27000km

[Cranial]

I went to the dealer to have them check out the brake shuddering, all they said was that I needed to machine my discs and it will be fixed. I declined their offer (as they told me it will cost me $$$), knowing that there is an underlying issue with the discs/pads. I wonder where to go from here...

[Eurotony]

I went to the dealer to have them check out the brake shuddering, all they said was that I needed to machine my discs and it will be fixed. I declined their offer (as they told me it will cost me $$$), knowing that there is an underlying issue with the discs/pads. I wonder where to go from here...
Your dealer should machine the disc's under warranty as there is a known problem. My dealer machined my disc's at 30k then replaced disc's & pad's at 40k & have just had the disc's & pads replaced again at 82k, all under warranty. If your dealer won't come to the party, tell them you will go directly to HMCA. That will change thier attitude.

[Ferrarista]

Im having this problem now, as soon as i hit the brakes the steering wheel shakes.

Any adivce on how to talk to the dealership about it?

[aaronng]

Im having this problem now, as soon as i hit the brakes the steering wheel shakes.

Any adivce on how to talk to the dealership about it?
Have you tried braking hard from high speed and then cruising to let the discs cool down? It usually fixes the shuddering.

[tony1234]

Im having this problem now, as soon as i hit the brakes the steering wheel shakes.

Any adivce on how to talk to the dealership about it?
After reading this thread for a while now,i decided to replace my front pads with Delphi Lockheed ones.so far they seem good,firmer pedal,pull up a LOT better,low dust.Not cheap!(Chris from I S racing reccomended them).Have 7300ks.now.I'll let you know how they go.

[aaronng]

Yeah, as vtec.net found out with their TSX, the stock pads were the ones causing the shuddering by leaving deposits. After switching to aftermarket pads, the problem went away.

[Ferrarista]

Is it a warranty issue though?

[panda[cRx]]

^ the initial problem or using non-gen pads?

the initial problem is, however if you change to non-gen pads and still experience brake shudder i HIGHLY doubt it'll be covered under warranty.

it is a fairly common problem (in fact we had one in our workshop last week). usually the machine and pad replacement fixes the problem, however there is the extremely odd occaision the issue reoccurs.

if you are experiencing shudder under braking don't hesitate to have a word with you dealer service manager about it

[Ferrarista]

']^ the initial problem or using non-gen pads?

the initial problem is, however if you change to non-gen pads and still experience brake shudder i HIGHLY doubt it'll be covered under warranty.

it is a fairly common problem (in fact we had one in our workshop last week). usually the machine and pad replacement fixes the problem, however there is the extremely odd occaision the issue reoccurs.

if you are experiencing shudder under braking don't hesitate to have a word with you dealer service manager about it
Yeah i was talking about the initial problem.

Thanks for your advice its due for a service soon so i'll just raise it then, cheers

[destrukshn]

actually the problem does re-occur, happens in our workshop, end up, just supplying new discs, and the 06 pads.

[tony1234]

Yeah, as vtec.net found out with their TSX, the stock pads were the ones causing the shuddering by leaving deposits. After switching to aftermarket pads, the problem went away.
The OEM pads are fairly ordinary as far as performance,pedal feel,pad
'bite".I didn't get to give them a decent workout but they didn't inspire any confidence just my opinion.Anyone here have aftermarket pads?I'd be int in any feedback as i'm sure others would.:)

[aaronng]

The OEM pads are fairly ordinary as far as performance,pedal feel,pad
'bite".I didn't get to give them a decent workout but they didn't inspire any confidence just my opinion.Anyone here have aftermarket pads?I'd be int in any feedback as i'm sure others would.:)
I've pushed the OEM pads to the limit. And it's not good..... It's bad at higher speeds. How much were the Delphi pads?

[tony1234]

I've pushed the OEM pads to the limit. And it's not good..... It's bad at higher speeds. How much were the Delphi pads?
$320.00 fitted.Made in Japan)Not cheap but chris from IS motorsport assures me that they're a good pad suitable for occasional track day,low dust,longer life than OEM pad,good pedal"bite",kind to rotors and rated up to 450 C(i think).So far so good.Time will tell.I'll keep you posted!!!
'

[aaronng]

That's a pretty good price for front and rear installed. Do you know the price for just the pads without installation?

[tony1234]

That's a pretty good price for front and rear installed. Do you know the price for just the pads without installation?
No.That was just for front.I still have OEM rears!!!!

[aaronng]

OMG $320 just for fronts?! That had better be good pads!

[tony1234]

OMG $320 just for fronts?! That had better be good pads!
Yeah.Iagree!!!!

[ZEi20T]

mostly you get what you pay for with jap parts!

IMO brakes and tyres are something you DONT skimp on

[tony1234]

mostly you get what you pay for with jap parts!

IMO brakes and tyres are something you DONT skimp on
Yeah.That's my opinion as well.:thumbsup:

[BusterSonic12]

lol that's so expensive~!!!
do you feel any difference in brake, when using different front and rear pads?

[tony1234]

lol that's so expensive~!!!
do you feel any difference in brake, when using different front and rear pads?
It's early days(only on for 4 days)already i notice MUCH better pad bite.No diff. as far as having OEM pads on rear.As the guys said most braking is from front brakes.I'll let you know as soon as i give them a bit of a workout next week!!!

[BiLL|z0r]

Just an update on this issue with my car.
My Euro started to develop the braker shudder at about 22000 and got slowly worse. I've just picked up my car after it's 30K service after reporting the issue and they machined the rotors and replaced the front pads all under warrenty no questions asked. The issue is now resolved.
Also confirming they have changed the pads to the 06 spec pads as the earlier models had the deposit issue but 06 don't.

[aaronng]

^^ Still, make sure you don't hold the brake pedal down hard at the lights after you have slowed your car down from high speed because the pads and rotors are hot.

[tron07]

Aaron, you from Malaysia?

I warp my disc once going down from a popular hill resort and hit a puddle of water at the bottom of the hill... machine it then its fine to go...


Anyway I find the Euro stock brake pads pretty bad, maybe cause I am too used to performance pads. My fav is still EBC brake pads, not sure if can get em or not.... Maybe will replace the pads on the 20k service, still 19k to go... [:D]

[tony1234]

Just an update on this issue with my car.
My Euro started to develop the braker shudder at about 22000 and got slowly worse. I've just picked up my car after it's 30K service after reporting the issue and they machined the rotors and replaced the front pads all under warrenty no questions asked. The issue is now resolved.
Also confirming they have changed the pads to the 06 spec pads as the earlier models had the deposit issue but 06 don't.
I think u will find it 'll come back.I've been told it's the resin in the pads leaving deposits on the rotors not the rotors warping!Ive changed ft.pads and they're great.(refer my previous post).Rotors nice and shiny,no "rusty"coloured rotors any more.

[aaronng]

Aaron, you from Malaysia?

I warp my disc once going down from a popular hill resort and hit a puddle of water at the bottom of the hill... machine it then its fine to go...


Anyway I find the Euro stock brake pads pretty bad, maybe cause I am too used to performance pads. My fav is still EBC brake pads, not sure if can get em or not.... Maybe will replace the pads on the 20k service, still 19k to go... [:D]

Yup, which one? Genting, Camerons or Frasers? Frasers Hill is the best because it is one way. And I always see idiots at the bottom of Genting pouring water on their brake discs!!!

Euro pads are bad. EBC is not much better. I want to get Hawk HPS or Ceramics instead. They get good reviews from TSX owners over in the US over the brake shuddering problem.

[BiLL|z0r]

I think u will find it 'll come back.I've been told it's the resin in the pads leaving deposits on the rotors not the rotors warping!Ive changed ft.pads and they're great.(refer my previous post).Rotors nice and shiny,no "rusty"coloured rotors any more.

They didn't change the rotors, they changed the pads to new spec pads that don't have this issue (according to Honda). If the issue does come back then they can change them again under wty. I don't mind having them changed under wty every 30k :)

[Chris_F]

I think the pads would have to be one of the worst apsects of the euros performance, I'll def be upgrading mine in the near future.

[tony1234]

I think the pads would have to be one of the worst apsects of the euros performance, I'll def be upgrading mine in the near future.
I'll second that.(i upgraded mine at 7000ks!!!)

[Chris_F]

I'll second that.(i upgraded mine at 7000ks!!!)

what did you upgrade to?

I'm at about 35,000km and I'm hoping i can change the pads without machining the discs:p

[tony1234]

what did you upgrade to?

I'm at about 35,000km and I'm hoping i can change the pads without machining the discs:p
Delphi Lockheed(japanese)Made for AP Racing apparently.got them from Chris at IS racing.Not cheap($320.00 fitted)but diff.to OEM pads is like black and white.If your discs are OK now you should be fine.

[tron07]

I used to do Genting runs quite often sometime back.... then IditialD became popular and lot of idiots drive really dangerous and I cut down a lot... Imgine doing it in the Euro, must be dem nice.

[aaronng]

I used to do Genting runs quite often sometime back.... then IditialD became popular and lot of idiots drive really dangerous and I cut down a lot... Imgine doing it in the Euro, must be dem nice.

Yeah, the upside is that the roads are smooth, and there are barriers to prevent you from rolling down the mountain. I prefer Camerons, it's a more twisty and dangerous route.