PDA

View Full Version : Car audio references/tips/guide (to be updated)



Spec_R
20-09-2006, 12:15 AM
Hi everyone Im new to forum, im not actually a member yet but here is my contribution;)

This is a reference/guide i made up through my experience of car audio . I do know something or two about car stereo as i used to be into car stereo and actually came to installing it many time. I used to have an $9000 stereo, my friend had a $20000 and his friend had something like $80000(alpine F1 status and rock fosgate gears in a van came second in SPL competition but he came first for spl hardware)

whats the different between SQ and SPL?
SQ=sound quality: SQ is basically beautiful sound in term of clarity very distinctive producing pure linear sound wave. SQ sound system will give you good staging of and evenly distributed sound with clarity much like in the opera. People seem to misunderstood that SQ setup have no bass therefore they go SPL (ported), SQ sub have bass but in a clarity form. SQ sub is tight, clear and is like fast attack bass. To give you an idea imagine yourself on ground when 100 b52 bomb explode that is SQ bass.
SPL =Sound Pressure Level: SPL is local ambient pressure caused by a sound wave. The effective sound pressure is the root mean square of the instantaneous sound pressure over a given interval of time. In a sound wave, the complementary variable to sound pressure is the acoustic particle velocity.
To put in simple language SPL is just pressurised sound in term of bass, more tended for crazy competiton. The disadvantages of SPL that it will kill your mid/high range sound signal and the bass is blurry and distorted. Advantage are it increase generally about 3 decimal to your overall system. To give you an idea of what SPL is, imagine standing high in the mountain(where is high pressure) then a nuclear bomb exploded now that my friend is SPL

some tips
When you buy low price audio equipment doesn't matter what brand they tend to be of the same output (i mean watts output or THD value etc...), its when though extra money burn you'll see a big different in brand but that doesnt mean that the low price goods from known brand is shit because of the technology they use, how they build it? Material used "internal and external", tand finally their reputation for putting these fact in action which earn them the reputation through time, now that is what determine a good brand name.
eg.boss amp=$200 vs alpine amp=$200 (get an idea what i mean in term,of the way is was built, material used, technology etc...)

picking brand will give ya da bomb system (pick the best from each)

NEVER buy amp speaker because of power rating in term of SQ

NEVER be fool when buying amp or speaker by their power output.
always looks and RMS rating rather then MAX. If just say 1000watts no max or rms is advertise to fool you.
eg. Boss amp rating at 1000watts lol.

Generally, "good" amplifiers tend to cost more (in money/watt) than "bad" amplifiers. So when you see an amp advertising 300W for only $100, and are comparing an amp with 50W for $300, you will usually find that the 50W/$300 amp will be of much higher quality than the 300W/$100 amp.


buy the best front split you can afford believe me makes a big different.

If you think you will upgrade your system i recommend just save those extra buck buy the good stuff in the first place as upgrading general u have to pay install cost, eg.deck,amp,rewire,new isze sub box or false floor, labourcost etc...unless u know how to install

is 6x9 speaker good? to tell u the true NO, if you into highend system 6x9=out, giving the fact that when u have decent sub, ur sub will kill the 6x9, u need more of a midrange signal like split.
if you have no sub yes its good in some way but if you have a killer sub you wasting ur money on 6x9 the sub will kill the 6x9 bass. recommend a split but for fitting reason then 6x9 is the way to go.
it is very common to use a low pass crossover with the rear speakers (at 2500 Hz) since rear-fill is intended to produce "ambiance," and high frequencies (>2500 Hz) can confuse the soundstage, making it appear that music is originating behind you.

3 way or 2way
if you taking about 3 ways as in 6x9 three then makes no different, if you talking about 3 ways as a component setup then thats the way to go.
eg. alpine type x split+type x midbass=3ways(three separte speakers combine through a crossover to make a 3way setup) not your conventional 6x9 three way see the different?
Using separates allows you to position the drivers independently and more carefully, which will give you greater control over your imaging.

coaxial or split?
of course split, split come with a separate crossover circuit designed to break down signal whereas coaxial is welded with just a tiny resistor but for any fitting reason then by all mean go coaxial.
For best results, try to keep the mid and tweeter as close together as possible - this will make the two drivers act more like a single point source (which is ideal).

Capacitor: are they any good?
for those that say they do nothing you are absolutely wrong.
Capacitor are good for SQ system but not for SPL. If you dont believe i will prove it, my knowlegde about audio is quite extensive. 10/10 audio expert i spoke to confirm it and there was a audio forum with 2 electrical engineer debating about the capacitor functionality, they have proved with endless theory and testing on actual car system using equipment (yes is good for SQ system)also evidence from audio supplier have confirm. Im not sure if i can give out link but pm im happy to give you thre link.

what is the best capacitor
Of my experience and been recommended, the best capacitor "Alumapro" originally make for the militory and nasa now with that same technology is incorparote into car audio. Alumapro CAP come in 5 ,15, 50farad,fastest charge & discharge cap
i got a 15 farad alumaprod (its freakin mad)

Seal or ported box?
personally i prefer seal give better sound quality and clarity. People think seal box dont have bass but wrong is massive bass but in a SQ and clarity form. I have known and see many started as ported then going seal when they actually hear they love it. Advantages of seal also give you a smaller box volume (spacewise)
Also really got to do with what music you listen to but seal generally rate at all music, if you just going port all will hear is ported bass when u want to listen to other music u stuck with bad quality. Anyway is for you to decide. As for ported box(SPL) it will generally increase 3decimal to your overall sound system but you paid the cost of sound quality.

What much bass do i need?
i will try to break it down into 3 categories and put a reaction of what a newcomer to the car audio would react to give those that never into car audio an idea of sound. You could think of it as a guidline line.

newcomer: low budget
recommend 2xsub of about 300watts rms each
eg. last year model of type R sub rate 300watts rms 12inch/500rms 15inch
newcomer reaction: ***en this is loud wow but soon to realise as day by day pass, the bass seems low cos he/she getting used to bass or he/she migh even think something wrong with their sub. "I need more bass,"said the newcomer. "Time for upgrade."

novicemedium budget
2xsub of 500 to 700watts rms, or 1xsub of 1000watts RMS
newcomer reaction: this is freaken loud do you think i might get deaf

advance:high budget
2 to 4 sub of 1000watts RMS or 1x18inch 1000 to 3000 RMS
newcomer reaction: let me out im having a heart attack

What size wire to run and what fuse?
follow these to determine what fuse/wire to use:
if u feel u have a longer length cable go to next size, is better running a bigger cable than what is require that way its a piece of mind, make further upgrading like adding another amp easier instead of rewire.

Wire Gauge - Fuse Size note:fuse size refer to ur ampplifier or amplifiers total amps
2/0 gauge - 430 amps
0 gauge - 345 amps (over 300amps u might consider to run 2 cable divide up the fuse)
1 gauge - 265 amps
2 gauge - 215 amps
4 gauge - 135 amps
6 gauge - 80 amps
8 gauge - 55 amps
10 gauge - 30 amps
12 gauge - 20 amps
14 gauge - 15 amps
16 gauge - 7.5 amps

use below for more accurate regarding wire lenght


Length of run/wire (in feet)
Current 0-4 4-7 7-10 10-13 13-16 16-19 19-22 22-28
0-20A 14 12 12 10 10 8 8 8
20-35A 12 10 8 8 6 6 6 4
35-50A 10 8 8 6 6 4 4 4
50-65A 8 8 6 4 4 4 4 2
65-85A 6 6 4 4 2 2 2 0
85-105A 6 6 4 2 2 2 2 0
105-125A 4 4 4 2 2 0 0 0
125-150A 2 2 2 2 0 0 0 00

blue number represent the gauge size require in accordance to the current ranges through to the lenght of run/wire

How many Devices can i attach to my remote turn-on lead?
The remote turn-on lead that most head units will not provide very much
current (usually 250-300mA), so there is a limit to the number of
components you can activate with it. Generally, it is safe to hook up
two devices to the lead without having to worry about problems.
However, if you'll be activating more components, then you should
probably use a relay.



while writing this guide i got timeout 8 times need relog each time ^^ idle time in this forum is too fast.
man i hate this timeout i came to finish explaing SPL and SQ save and i have to relog then lose it now i need to retype.
any further thing you like to know, if i know i tell ya;)

Gerald28
20-09-2006, 12:34 AM
this is a great reference guide, or a car audio dictionary!

and i agree, dont go for boss. Coz they clearly aint the boss in car audio

Kandy
20-09-2006, 12:37 AM
you didn't explain what SQ and SPL is...

also what about the other brands, Soundstreem, Lightning Audio, Digital Desings, Nakamichi, Kicker...
are volt distributors, upgrading battery, 0gauge (or whatever number) wiring necessary?

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 12:54 AM
you didn't explain what SQ and SPL is...

also what about the other brands, Soundstreem, Lightning Audio, Digital Desings, Nakamichi, Kicker...
are volt distributors, upgrading battery, 0gauge (or whatever number) wiring necessary?
i didnt though i should add battery and volt distributor as people prolly know these thing, ok i will mention it

what been added to list
how much bass u need?
wire gauge and fuse require
spl and SQ
and for brand i explain the common known one as i not a god dont know every single brand, waste too much space as well

Kandy
20-09-2006, 01:07 AM
haha, just testing ya. not bad so far.

i would say sound dendening should be a part of this...

DSNTGR8
20-09-2006, 09:32 AM
give the dude some space to breathe, he was nearly timed out a dozen times lol. Dont forget to add DLS & SoundStream to the list!!!

ICACHA
20-09-2006, 09:36 AM
and may i ask the qualifications of the original poster, what evidence has he/she got to back up his/her claims?

AmateurJazz
20-09-2006, 10:13 AM
Perhaps add the European range to the list as well i.e. Focal, Audison/Hertz, and Boston Acoustics (US?)

Fr3aKi3
20-09-2006, 11:02 AM
I think some more clarification is needed.
Let's take the wiring/fusing guide as an example.

If i've got a amp which has 3x30amp fuses on it but decide to run 0awg cabling (just in case of future amp upgrades) what fuse should I be using? A quick glance and the guide and i'd assume a 300amp fuse is what i'd be using since i'm running 0awg cable. Personally i'd be using a 80 or 90amp fuse, reason being is that i'd rather the fuse for the 0awg wiring blow than the fuses on the amp.

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 01:33 PM
I think some more clarification is needed.
Let's take the wiring/fusing guide as an example.

If i've got a amp which has 3x30amp fuses on it but decide to run 0awg cabling (just in case of future amp upgrades) what fuse should I be using? A quick glance and the guide and i'd assume a 300amp fuse is what i'd be using since i'm running 0awg cable. Personally i'd be using a 80 or 90amp fuse, reason being is that i'd rather the fuse for the 0awg wiring blow than the fuses on the amp.
dude u can run bigger wire but the fuse remain the same as according to your amp cant you see it show the amplifer or amplifier amps

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 01:36 PM
and may i ask the qualifications of the original poster, what evidence has he/she got to back up his/her claims?
anyone who into would know what im talking about. except with the brand beening known for what some may disagree but i telling you you think i totally wrong about?

You tell me what part im wrong and why is wrong?
except for what i list known about this brand because that is just what i have experience with gather myself and from other people.
eg. if i say honda is known for it engine to be reliable, that is what i think and gather from other people.

J-MuN
20-09-2006, 01:39 PM
Well done mate. Alot of effort put into it.

aka_NSX
20-09-2006, 01:48 PM
To give you an idea imagine yourself on ground when 100 b52 bomb explode that is SQ bass.
To give you an idea of what SPL is, imagine standing high in the mountain(where is high pressure) then a nuclear bomb exploded now that my friend is SPL

maybe next time you need more realistic when you want to ask ppl to imagine, since no one ever been tried to have 100 b52 bomb or nuclear explode on them

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 02:01 PM
maybe next time you need more realistic when you want to ask ppl to imagine, since no one ever been tried to have 100 b52 bomb or nuclear explode on them
lol i got a bit carry away:)

Fr3aKi3
20-09-2006, 02:28 PM
dude u can run bigger wire but the fuse remain the same as according to your amp cant you see it show the amplifer or amplifier amps

lol I think you've misunderstood me. I know that you can run a bigger main power cable (i'm doing that in my system) but what i'm trying to say is that for people who don't know much about car audio they can look at the guide and assume that they'll just get a 300amp fuse since thats what 0awg is rated at. You may know that the main fuse rating should match that of the fuses on the amp(s), car audio enthusiast may know it as well but for the average Joe might not so they might assume higher rating fuse = more power.

At one stage I was confused with the fusing of my own system but thanks to forums everything was cleared up, point being a little clarification can be of great help to others.

Props to you and the effort though

BTW: No I did not see the amplifer or amplifier amps , if i had seen that then i wouldn't of had bothered to post what i did. In saying that though the original post was edited at 1:57pm today so maybe you added that in... lol :p

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 02:41 PM
lol I think you've misunderstood me. I know that you can run a bigger main power cable (i'm doing that in my system) but what i'm trying to say is that for people who don't know much about car audio they can look at the guide and assume that they'll just get a 300amp fuse since thats what 0awg is rated at. You may know that the main fuse rating should match that of the fuses on the amp(s), car audio enthusiast may know it as well but for the average Joe might not so they might assume higher rating fuse = more power.

At one stage I was confused with the fusing of my own system but thanks to forums everything was cleared up, point being a little clarification can be of great help to others.

Props to you and the effort though

BTW: No I did not see the amplifer or amplifier amps , if i had seen that then i wouldn't of had bothered to post what i did. In saying that though the original post was edited at 1:57pm today so maybe you added that in... lol :p
the amplifier and amplifier was always there i just edited to note: so it stands out and added more info to other sector

i got more info to add but does anybody know whether a limite to it, i just though it nice to share my knowledge and put all in 1 thread so easy to lookup and save forum resource from people posting same thread all over again

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 03:55 PM
as this thread left with limited space, i cannot add anymore to it but i made another thread part2 to be continue of this one.

micka
20-09-2006, 05:05 PM
lol I think you've misunderstood me. I know that you can run a bigger main power cable (i'm doing that in my system) but what i'm trying to say is that for people who don't know much about car audio they can look at the guide and assume that they'll just get a 300amp fuse since thats what 0awg is rated at. You may know that the main fuse rating should match that of the fuses on the amp(s), car audio enthusiast may know it as well but for the average Joe might not so they might assume higher rating fuse = more power.

That's not 100% accurate, while it'll be perfectly safe, it's not necessary to "match" the fuse ratings on the amplifier to the main fuse within 12" of the battery.
The main fuse (within 12" of the battery) is there to protect the power wire. When too much current flows through a piece of wire it heats up and becomes a fire hazard. This is why Fuse used must fall between two values, the maximum current the cable can safely handle, and a value high enough to aviod annoying fuse blows.
If you're using a distrobution block to power multiple devices using a smaller ga wire you will need to fuse between the larger ga and the smaller ga again using a fuse rated between the maximum current the smaller wire can handle, but high enough to avoid annoying blows.

I might be being a little pedantic, I find it better to know why specific value fuses are used, rather than blindly throwing in what's on the amp.

Fr3aKi3
20-09-2006, 05:59 PM
That's not 100% accurate, while it'll be perfectly safe, it's not necessary to "match" the fuse ratings on the amplifier to the main fuse within 12" of the battery.
The main fuse (within 12" of the battery) is there to protect the power wire. When too much current flows through a piece of wire it heats up and becomes a fire hazard. This is why Fuse used must fall between two values, the maximum current the cable can safely handle, and a value high enough to aviod annoying fuse blows.
If you're using a distrobution block to power multiple devices using a smaller ga wire you will need to fuse between the larger ga and the smaller ga again using a fuse rated between the maximum current the smaller wire can handle, but high enough to avoid annoying blows.

I might be being a little pedantic, I find it better to know why specific value fuses are used, rather than blindly throwing in what's on the amp.

lol... poor wording on my behalf. I did generalise a bit too much with "should match".

micka
20-09-2006, 06:12 PM
To give you an idea imagine yourself on ground when 100 b52 bomb explode that is SQ bass.

To me SQ is all about accuratly reproducing the original music. If you want an idea of SQ bass go see some live music listen to a bass guitar, a double bass, lows of an organ, a bass drum, a tuba etc.

rtsnoz
20-09-2006, 06:13 PM
Great write-up Spec_R. Just a quick q - What do u think of soundstream amps?

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 06:19 PM
To me SQ is all about accuratly reproducing the original music. If you want an idea of SQ bass go see some live music listen to a bass guitar, a double bass, lows of an organ, a bass drum, a tuba etc.
exactly that why i mention the opera

EuroDude
20-09-2006, 06:36 PM
Sony
bang for buck, they got the crapest speaker i ever heard, overrated with power and shit quality sound wise and material built

haha I can vouch for that too, absolute crap :p

never buy car audio from a company that sells a million other products.
Stick with the audio-dedicated companies like JL Audio and Adire :thumbsup:


And it would be nice if you added Audison's Amp range to the list, they are excellent Italian quality amps at a decent price.

oh yeh, and Jaycar are actually quite decent speakers, way better than sony and the other cheap stuff you get from Strathfield

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 06:42 PM
Great write-up Spec_R. Just a quick q - What do u think of soundstream amps?
soundstream amp are just as good as alpine, good circuitry, come with protection circuitry like of alpine protect which protect the amp from overheating and short circuit which consist of the following circuit:main power fuses, speaker output protection and thermal circuit.

I personal like amp which have their own fuse built in much better, yeah i have no reason to say this amp is not good.

Zdster
20-09-2006, 07:02 PM
Good guide/thread. While I dont agree with everything you have said, :thumbsup: for effort and time.

ICACHA
20-09-2006, 08:55 PM
anyone who into would know what im talking about. except with the brand beening known for what some may disagree but i telling you you think i totally wrong about?

You tell me what part im wrong and why is wrong?
except for what i list known about this brand because that is just what i have experience with gather myself and from other people.
eg. if i say honda is known for it engine to be reliable, that is what i think and gather from other people.

i will start with saying, PLEASE re-write it in ENGLISH so i can understand what your saying :wave:

and just let us know where to send the medal for your knowledge that you seem to have picked up from either reading or listening to so-called installers who 'think' they can talk the talk and walk the walk :)

may i ask what clicked for you to put this essay in here which will over time get pushed further back into the forum?
i mean if people have a 'simple' question and i stress simple, as many who want to be a BUNNINGS (DIYer) are only able to do simple tasks, other than that most of us who are in the industry will refer people to a store if we see that they cant take direction from an answer to a question. plus we in the industry make a living doing what we are doing and dont need to answer question we see will take bread off our tables.

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 09:09 PM
i will start with saying, PLEASE re-write it in ENGLISH so i can understand what your saying :wave:

and just let us know where to send the medal for your knowledge that you seem to have picked up from either reading or listening to so-called installers who 'think' they can talk the talk and walk the walk :)

may i ask what clicked for you to put this essay in here which will over time get pushed further back into the forum?
i mean if people have a 'simple' question and i stress simple, as many who want to be a BUNNINGS (DIYer) are only able to do simple tasks, other than that most of us who are in the industry will refer people to a store if we see that they cant take direction from an answer to a question. plus we in the industry make a living doing what we are doing and dont need to answer question we see will take bread off our tables.

is called sharing knowledge,

dude listen to yourself u dont a clue what u talking about, this got nothing to do with diy or industry related?? its simple a mere understanding about audio system. so what u saiding i wrote up all bullsh.it. pls dude if isn't any help for you then keep it to yourself as it may help other(maybe you're smart, why dont you write up something to share with us). Let me see u write one up insteading pinning people to the wall for helping.


there's also Part2 in another thread check it out.

EuroDude
20-09-2006, 09:13 PM
online grammer checker ftw~
http://www.grammarstation.com/GC.html

Spec_R
20-09-2006, 09:28 PM
i take out the brand listing of what they known for because people dont seem to read what've i note

Note: this is just a reference on brand regarding to my own opinion and what i have gather from people while in the car audio scene. Im not redirecting to a particular brand as its your own decision.

mj3610
20-09-2006, 10:20 PM
i will start with saying, PLEASE re-write it in ENGLISH so i can understand what your saying :wave:

and just let us know where to send the medal for your knowledge that you seem to have picked up from either reading or listening to so-called installers who 'think' they can talk the talk and walk the walk :)

may i ask what clicked for you to put this essay in here which will over time get pushed further back into the forum?
i mean if people have a 'simple' question and i stress simple, as many who want to be a BUNNINGS (DIYer) are only able to do simple tasks, other than that most of us who are in the industry will refer people to a store if we see that they cant take direction from an answer to a question. plus we in the industry make a living doing what we are doing and dont need to answer question we see will take bread off our tables.

take it easy mate he's just tryin to help...

EuroDude
20-09-2006, 10:45 PM
Spec_R i've rewritten the Low Budget bit so its a bit more generic. Two subs in an entry level system is not really feasible. A half-decent 12" sub can easily sound better/louder than two cheap 10" subs.

------
Newcomer: low budget
Recommended; two 40wRMS->75wRMS 6x9's to produce entry-level bass and acceptable mids and highs, running off an Amp that can output similar RMS wattage to the 6x9's.
Or if you can afford a Subwoofer, recommend a single 10" or 12" Subwoofer of about 150wRMS->400wRMS in a Box, running off an Amp that can supply close to what the Subwoofer is rated at.
------

ICACHA
20-09-2006, 11:55 PM
I just love winding people up :p

http://homepage.mac.com/yingloon/images/wind-up-Bush_web.jpg

Mikeyas
22-09-2006, 05:59 PM
Gawd, waht did this guy do to cause all you people to jump down his throat. Shared some of his experiences and BAM death to the person trying to provide some information!!

What about you add to the list and create an even better guide.??

Zdster
22-09-2006, 06:13 PM
What about you add to the list and create an even better guide.??

The issue, at least from my perspective, is car audio is rather subjective (much like body modifications etc).

That being said, I still applaud the original poster for the time/effort/thought that went into the post even if I dont agree with some of the product review comments.

ICACHA
22-09-2006, 10:10 PM
What about you add to the list and create an even better guide.??

will you deposit funds into my account? :wave:

Spec83
03-10-2006, 04:12 PM
I have to diagree on you assessment of sealed boxes are better for sq - yes they are easier to setup for sq but lack extension into the 20hz range. It takes time but when u take the resonant freq. of you car into account plus some box designing software such as winISD a properly setup ported box will kill a sealed box for resoponse with adequate subsonic filtering...

Also capacitors in theory work - try to eliminate voltage drop for that split second when the amps are drawing peak current... these are good for spl when charged but are really a band aid solution in sq for an underlying electircal defeciency which can be rectified with upgraded battery or wiring... plus they are another thing to go wrong or introduce noise into the system which is a very bad thing in sq competition...

ICACHA
03-10-2006, 11:31 PM
you cant beat a sealed box for low end extension PERIOD, do the math :D i dont care what some program tells you, try it and RTA your response and post up the evidence, i can guarantee you that you will get a hump/peak at the tuning frequency of the box and it will drop off pretty fast after that :)

theory? maybe again try it and see the proof that caps do work and do what they are designed to do. a battery is only a filter for your cars electrical system, any good battery will do, yes a fast discharge one is better than stock, but as the old saying goes, if it aint broken why the ***k would you want to fix it?

anyway, you believe what you want to believe, but until you have PROOF, dont blow smoke around :p

Spec83
06-10-2006, 09:58 PM
Depends on how you port - if you port low with a largish port you will have no peak and no port noise - i could not place anywhere in qld sq untill i went ported - soon as i did i got 2nd in class at maroochy qld sq titles (only lost out on install points to the maroochy starion) - i will never go back to sealed :)

aka_NSX
06-10-2006, 10:43 PM
Depends on how you port - if you port low with a largish port you will have no peak and no port noise - i could not place anywhere in qld sq untill i went ported - soon as i did i got 2nd in class at maroochy qld sq titles (only lost out on install points to the maroochy starion) - i will never go back to sealed :)

i dont believe ported box is better than sealed for SQ, and all the compettion is full of SHIT anyway we (me N icacha) been in the competition back in 92 1st place ( NSW CAR AUDIO NATIONAL ) before even you guys started back in 92, maybe you got 2nd @ maroochy qld sq but maybe if you take your car to NSW maybe u wont even win anything coz you got different judges, coz everyone has got different taste of music, thats why you cant say ported box is better coz you wont 2nd place, as you can see the maroochy starion came 1st coz they are the one that running the competition .................

ICACHA
07-10-2006, 10:41 PM
Depends on how you port - if you port low with a largish port you will have no peak and no port noise - i could not place anywhere in qld sq untill i went ported - soon as i did i got 2nd in class at maroochy qld sq titles (only lost out on install points to the maroochy starion) - i will never go back to sealed :)

bloody eskimoe's, bit like the bloody mexican's, got no idea on what they are talking about hahahahahahahaha