whiteline camber kit (washers) q

[OHH NO]

hey peeps, i currently have around about 2-3 neg degrees camber on my rear wheels, would it make that much of a difference if i installed the whiteline camberkit (KCA370).
only prob is that it only give max 1 degree less in negative camber.

i currently get about 4months of life out of my tyres, would it increase the life of my tyres by installing it. or is it kinda pointless

thanks in advance

[EG5[KRT]]

probably better to get adjustable upper control arms

if u fit the white line camber kit it will help a little

to get the most of your tyres if u fit that kit u just gotta rotate and balance they wheels more and notice which edges are more worn..

[OHH NO]

yeh the arms are out of my price range

[Eclipsor]

I reackon for the price you can't really go wrong. Every little bit will help. Just won't fix it completely.

[JasonGilholme]

Go to bunnings or hardware house and by yourself a shit load of washers! :)

That'll give you more then 1 degree.

[SPEEDCORE]

yeh the arms are out of my price range

Yet your happy to go through 3 sets of tyres every year? *scratches head*

[JasonGilholme]

Yet your happy to go through 3 sets of tyres every year? *scratches head*

so tru. so so tru.

[fadz]

id be careful what washers i get and grade of Bolt to...you dont want those things breaking off,whilst you drive ;)

[EK4R]

cant you buy two camber kit and add 6 washers instead of 3 ? or would that stuff things up

[fadz]

hmm good question, ask a suspension Guru, wouldnt mind putting the extra washers on there to....

[JasonGilholme]

I reckon you'd be able to. If you're worried purchase a whiteline camber kit and then get some extra washers from the hardware store. :thumbsup:

[fadz]

sounds good...thats what id do too

[JasonGilholme]

Ultimately I'd love to get fully adjustable Upper control arms for the front and back but this setup will work fine if you don't want to be able to easily tune your suspenion setup.

[Eclipsor]

I asked this question in turtle's diy. Why you can only put 3 washers in there getting +1 deg. This is the amount that whiteline recommends so personally I wouldn't go chucking as many as you want in there.

The size of the hole limits the diameter of the bolt that you can use. Hence limiting it's strength. As you put more washers in there the point that the control arm attaches to the bolt gets further and further out increasing the leverage of the control arm on the point that the bolt attaches.

Ingalls make a similar kit which also only adjusts to +1 deg.

So I think unless you can get a higher tensile bolt than the one whiteline uses I wouldn't be putting many more washers in there.

[JasonGilholme]

Yeh, don't go out an buy a 20 pack now fellas. lol

[fadz]

if you put about 5-6 ud think ud be fine?

[JasonGilholme]

Depends on how long the bolt is. Just make sure you've got a sufficient amount of bolt holding the UCA onto the chassis and you should be ok.

Remember, you don't want to get positive camber. A little bit of negative is fine, providing you're not gonna eat your tires too quickly.

[fadz]

seriously id be happy with the washers i get with the whiteline kit?
most cars wen slammed are negative 2-3 camber or so and to minus that by one would be fine...

[JasonGilholme]

Runnin 1 - 2 degrees of -ve camber in the rear is fine.

I'll be lookin to run about -1.5 to -1.75 in the rear when i set mine up.

[fadz]

add a 4th washer to the whiteline Kit?

[JasonGilholme]

yeh. spose so. I'd be inclined to get the replacement UCA thats adjustable though

[EK4R]

negative camber is when the top of the wheel bends in whlie the bottom comes out right? or the otherway round

[JasonGilholme]

Yep. Negative camber is when the top of your wheels looks like its pointing into the arch.

When you're cornering your car tilts/rolls which makes the wheels angle out and reduces your contact patch on the road (you end up turning on the outside edge of your tyres). If you have a bit of negative camber when you're stationary, your wheels will (hopefully) be upright during corners, maximising your grip during corners. :thumbsup:

[n/a]

Runnin 1 - 2 degrees of -ve camber in the rear is fine.

I'll be lookin to run about -1.5 to -1.75 in the rear when i set mine up.

that's a good range for rear -ve camber. i was reading autosalon, where they were working on their EK. Whiteline was saying that for the rear -1.5 -1.75 is sufficient.

what suprised me was that when they put on 5zigen coilovers, the fronts had a -ve camber of 2 something, and whiteline adjusted it to -1 something. they were saying that -ve is not always good, it really depends on your setup.

what front camber do you have?

[EK4R]

get a caster kit so you have camber when you turn, and no camber when you on the straight. i think thats how it works...

[n/a]

get a caster kit so you have camber when you turn, and no camber when you on the straight. i think thats how it works...

come on buddy.. he did mention he can't afford arms..

[EK4R]

^^
actually i dont know how much caster kit cost
anyone know? arent they just washers n bolts too? i duno im new to all these too

[JasonGilholme]

With camber/castor adjustments theres a few different options.

* Nut & bolt type - where you shim the control arms out to adjust camber
* Bushes - Which alter the direction of them arm
* Replacement arms - which allow you to easily adjust the pivot of the arm/ball join to obtain positive or negative camber

Price wise the first two are pretty similiar ( under 50 bucks) where as the replacement arms i believe would be around the 200 buck mark (someone correct me there)

Also, I believe to get camber you alter the upper control arm where as to get castor you alter the lower control arm (can someone confirm please cause i'd really like to know 100%)

[krogoth]

bump...can som1 answer the mans question?

lol, good thread

[civicem1]

where can i buy a pair of front adjustable control arms from? to fit em1.

[JasonGilholme]

From the "want to buy" forum.

[Sir Revalot]

OK first off don't go buying washers from the hardware store. The 'shims' that are included with the KCA370 kit look like washers, but they have been machined in such a way that they are all the same size. Standard hardware store washers haven't necessarily been machined with such intricacy.

Secondly, you don't want huge camber unless you want your tyres to wear out after a week and/or you are able to push your car to 10/10ths (which is not advisable on the road). I got my car setup by a suspension specialist and told him what I wanted out of it (great handling with reasonable tyre wear).

My car is an Integra VTI-R with the following suspension mods:

Whiteline front Camber kit
Whiteline rear Camber kit
Whiteline blade adjustable rear swaybar
Rear strut brace
King 'standard' low springs all round
KYB shocks

From memory, my camber has been setup with 0.75 degrees negative camber on the front and 0.25 degrees on the rear. This was setup as such after speaking with the suspension expert about what I wanted (see above) and some testing (I went back a couple of times after driving the car hard for some adjustments). I can't say I have any complaints now. The car is on rails and especially through really tight corners it is sensational. I had a new CBR1000RR Fireblade chasing me the other day through some tight stuff and he was quick (I used to ride a Fireblade myself) and he was only starting to catch me on the straight sections.

With a tad more negative camber on the front I'd be able to corner even faster, but my car is mainly used for work purposes with the occasional fang through the hills and it is fine for that - plus my tyres are lasting really well too.

[turtleEK1]

Sir Revalot is right... you don't want TOO much -ve camber if you car is mainly a road car, otherwise you'll go through tyres no worries... but if you like to hit the hills abit... have a little in the rear and a little more at the front, but don't get anything over 1.5deg...

i've got the front camber/castor kit in my car... made a difference for its cheap price, but only get it if you plan on sticking to one setup. otherwise get something like a adjust UCA...

btw- don't got throwing extra washers in your rear camber kit... whiteline designed it this way after tests so it was safe... if something went wrong (which would be pretty bad if your rear UCA came off!!!) whiteline wouldn't have a bar of it... coz you messed with their manufactured design!!!

[krogoth]

sir reavalot, great info mate

with such small amounts of negative camber id expect ur tyres to wear out at almost the same rate as they would with a stock 0 camber

really smart setup for the suspension....having more neg in the front than the back.....i can see how that would help in corners....

unfortunatley for me, the ES civic suspension is setup differently to the older hondas, like the vtir, ek eg etc, i dont think there are any after market camber kits available for me, let alone control arms or any of that....

but then again, negative camber from my soon to come lowering will probably be negligible, not even noticable by eye, but i am only lowering 1.5inch, so camber will prob be like -1 or something like that for the rear and prob less for the front

tyre wear with such a small amount of neg camber will not differ greatly from a 0 camber, and handling should improve as well....

PS, im no expert, still learning about all this stuff, so if any1 wishes to clarufy or correct wat i have said, feel free to do so

[krogoth]

Sir Revalot is right... you don't want TOO much -ve camber if you car is mainly a road car, otherwise you'll go through tyres no worries... but if you like to hit the hills abit... have a little in the rear and a little more at the front, but don't get anything over 1.5deg...

i've got the front camber/castor kit in my car... made a difference for its cheap price, but only get it if you plan on sticking to one setup. otherwise get something like a adjust UCA...

btw- don't got throwing extra washers in your rear camber kit... whiteline designed it this way after tests so it was safe... if something went wrong (which would be pretty bad if your rear UCA came off!!!) whiteline wouldn't have a bar of it... coz you messed with their manufactured design!!!

i agree with that, dont chuck any more washers on than wat the kit came with

if it came with three, leave it at that, this is serious stuff, if the UCA fails do to over stressing coz of some noob washers................it could even happen while ur driving, think bout that

[929]

My EK4 is seating on Cusco coilover. But i found that my rear left wheel is like zero or a bit positive camber while the rear right is like about 2 negative after lowing it.

I would like to make them both a little bit negative, would this whiteline kit do the job?

[bennjamin]

remember negative camber isnt such an issue to tyre wear , as is TOE.
Get a proper alignment !!!

[ACTI0NMAN-1]

i cbf reading the past responses, so i recommend buying longer bolts and adding extra washes for the rear. i believe 'the metric man' stocks all types of bolts, washers, ect...

[Eclipsor]

My EK4 is seating on Cusco coilover. But i found that my rear left wheel is like zero or a bit positive camber while the rear right is like about 2 negative after lowing it.

I would like to make them both a little bit negative, would this whiteline kit do the job?

If your rear left is in fact positive camber after you've lowered the car I'd be looking into other reasons for this like bent control arms or something as this definitely shouldn't be the case. Have you actually had an alignment and got positive readings? It might just look positive compared to the front wheel.

Either way, that whiteline kit can't give you more negative camber. Best you could do would be to make the rear right more positive to make it more like the other side.

[929]

If your rear left is in fact positive camber after you've lowered the car I'd be looking into other reasons for this like bent control arms or something as this definitely shouldn't be the case. Have you actually had an alignment and got positive readings? It might just look positive compared to the front wheel.

Either way, that whiteline kit can't give you more negative camber. Best you could do would be to make the rear right more positive to make it more like the other side.

I had wheel alignment after lowering the car, but the guy told me that he cant not do anything to it and asked me to get a set of camber kit first.
My rear left isnt really "positive", but comparing to rear right i may say it is zero camber.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65249
Comparing to this kind of "Rear Camber Kit", the main difference is i can get negative camber from this and possibly with bigger angle than the Whiteline one can do, am i right?

[Eclipsor]

Yeah. You might have to ask what length those are at their shortest and compare to your stock ones to see if they actually do go negative aswell as positive. Or if they can quote a camber range in degrees. Like -1 to +1 or something. But yeah they should be easier to adjust and have a bigger range. Overall a better option. Especially if you're getting uneven results on either side.

[creativepunka]

f*ck the kit. Get 4 high tensile bolts about 10mm longer and a couple of washers. I got down from -3degrees to "0". I wouldnt waste your time getting high tensile washers tho, mine were what i had around and have lasted fine.

[Bludger]

With camber/castor adjustments theres a few different options.

* Nut & bolt type - where you shim the control arms out to adjust camber
* Bushes - Which alter the direction of them arm
* Replacement arms - which allow you to easily adjust the pivot of the arm/ball join to obtain positive or negative camber

Price wise the first two are pretty similiar ( under 50 bucks) where as the replacement arms i believe would be around the 200 buck mark (someone correct me there)

Also, I believe to get camber you alter the upper control arm where as to get castor you alter the lower control arm (can someone confirm please cause i'd really like to know 100%)

i think he is refering to his rear tyres.
castor is irrelevant on the rear, rear don't turn