Best Capacitor?

[DSNTGR8]

im looking at the Soundstream SC-2A

peoples opinions on that one? or any different capcitor theyve got

[Fhrx]

Is there a reason you want a capacitor as opposed to a decent gell / dry cell battery?

[DSNTGR8]

probably cos im running 3 amps in my car :)

[Fhrx]

probably cos im running 3 amps in my car :)

Really? We regularly run systems here that utilise up to twelve amplifiers and we've not needed a cap yet.

I'd recommend you just get yourself a decent quality battery rather than purchasing a capacitor. Remember caps are basically fast discharging batteries...

[ICACHA]

old rule of thumb back in our hay day Marty was a 1 farad cap per 1000wrms, i still remember that :)

[Kandy]

I have a soundstream capacitor in my car...
I can't really compare it to anything else as I haven't had anyother one before...

[Slow96GSR]

But remember with bigger or extra batteries comes the need for a bigger alternator. You have to be able to charge those batteries. Just adding one battery isn't so bad but when you add 3+ you have to beef up the alternator or it will take forever to charge up. If the alternator only puts out 130 amps at 2500RPMs+ and you have 4 batteries @ 2000 amps (500 amps each) then it will take at least 15 hours to fully charge. This is where the external charger helps. Also remember that when driving you use about 50% of the alternators output to run the car so the battery only sees 60 amps, if that, depends on the efficiency of the alternator too. Caps however are a great way for a daily driver to have a lot of power with out the added expense of batteries, alternators, and wiring. 1 cap per 1000 watts is still the rule of thumb but only up to 4000 watts, then you need batteries. If you have dimming issues while driving then the electrical system is underpowered and needs to be checked and fixed.

As for which cap is best, that is up to you since there aren't too many manufactures. The caps are almost all the same so if you want a $50USD cap it's going to be close, if not the same, to a $75USD cap. The differences are if it has a digital voltage led on it, extra connections for daisy chaining round or square, 1 farad vs. 2+, and colors. Get design you want then get the middle priced one. The cheap ones seem to fall apart. The expensive ones seem to be too much, but the middle ones are just right for most people.

[DSNTGR8]

fhrx: thanks for the smart arse comment, lol

slow96gsr: thats more what i was looking for

[Spec_R]

not all cap are the same, their is different material used to built them (some with fancy light, design but actually crap material), One of the best cap is alumapro, once design for nasa and military, now design for car audio with the same technology, i believe they are one of the quickest charging cap. Google it you'll find more info on alumapro
they come in 5,15,50 farad

as for the rule of thumb 1farad/1000watt i heard many say it doesnt apply for example a system putting out 1000watts, he uses 1farad, he claim didnt do much but when he try 5 farad there is a different.

[ICACHA]

you'd be surprised as to how many caps actually come out of the same factory and are badged differently for different customers :)

so unless you have proof you cant make those claims you know :p

[Bayani]

fhrx: thanks for the smart arse comment, lol

slow96gsr: thats more what i was looking for

I doubt that's smartarse comment; he knows he stuff

You really should just get a battery, you'd only need one if you were having problems with dimming on deep loud tones; and even then, you should be looking at your alternator..

[Fhrx]

DSNTGR8, you've lost me. What are you talking about? I was being serious and trying to help you out.

[DSNTGR8]

Fhrx: lol i thought you were being sarcastic, lol sorry mate :)

[Slow96GSR]

About Fhrx comment, I was going to say those must be 100 watt amps each. Lol!!

But you can also replace your stock battery with a bigger battery and still use the stock alternator.

Most of our daily driver installs get caps, but the competition cars/trucks/vans use batteries as we can remove a/c, power steering and other accessories to add more than one alternator and they don't have to move fast like on a highway. All they have to do is be able to drive up to the lanes on their own power. But they also produce 5k-100k watts.

[Bayani]

If you want looks; I guess you could go with a capacitator; But personally, i think you're better off with a bigger battery; it'd be a good investment

[krogoth]

lol

bigger batery??

not evry1 can just drop a new battery in...a new battery may affect the performance of other components...and may not fit in the engine bay, and may have different ratings and may not be compatible with other existing components...etc etc

seriously, for the sake of simplicity, get a capacitor...i mean cmon, ur not gona go and change ur battery or improve the alternator for a bloody sound system...

unless u wana get in to the auto salon

[aaronng]

lol

bigger batery??

not evry1 can just drop a new battery in...a new battery may affect the performance of other components...and may not fit in the engine bay, and may have different ratings and may not be compatible with other existing components...etc etc

seriously, for the sake of simplicity, get a capacitor...i mean cmon, ur not gona go and change ur battery or improve the alternator for a bloody sound system...

unless u wana get in to the auto salon
Common sense says you measure the space available for a battery before you buy one. Why is it common sense? You try a shirt on for size before buying. It's something that is done in everyday life.

For your second reason, I hope that you are buying 12V car batteries and not something else for your car. Just like having a flashlight that uses 1.5V batteries. You don't go out and buy 3.6V Lithium batteries to see if it works better just because they have a higher capacity (and voltage!)

[mj3610]

you'd be surprised as to how many caps actually come out of the same factory and are badged differently for different customers :)

so unless you have proof you cant make those claims you know :p
very true :)

[aka_NSX]

most of the cap is made by SPRAGUE in USA means all capacitor is the SAME only the brand is different, this system was introduced by Richard Clark back in 94 or 95 ( AUTOSOUND 2000 ) in his BUICK always the winner in IASCA Grand Final

[IZY-10]

you will still get diming of the lights with a new battery. However, you really should look at getting a heavy duty alternator that can handle like 120A it will just clear all ur worries

[integraz]

New deepcycle battery, with thick ground wiring kit

[ICACHA]

UPGRADE THE CHEAP SH!T VEHICLES GROUND, now for those that arent listening, go out and buy a new battery, alternator and as many caps as you like you aint gonna fix the problem UNLESS you know where the problem is happening :)

[ICACHA]

key is UPGRADE YOUR CRAPPY EARTH :) hope people are listening as they are nearly all talking shit :p

[aaronng]

Stop swearing.

Upgrading the ground doesn't solve the light dimming issue when the A/C kicks in.

[Spec_R]

most of the cap is made by SPRAGUE in USA means all capacitor is the SAME only the brand is different, this system was introduced by Richard Clark back in 94 or 95 ( AUTOSOUND 2000 ) in his BUICK always the winner in IASCA Grand Final

assumably they are made from same manufacturer or company, not all are those. for example: you look at a car manufacturer, they buy other parts from other manufacture that built for other brand as well(are they all the same?)they are just manufacturer or contractor that build to a requested specification
this apply to all other goods as well not just cap, yes there a some with same material but not all are. There are some with better high grade material which set them apart which is where brand and price range come into play.
so you tell me they all the same??? are all honda's model the same?? bridgestone manufacture all the same type?? of course not, there different material use even if it from the same manufacture. Do a search on cap built material

[Fr3aKi3]

In sticking with that automotive related anaology, lets take a look at the current Barina and old Daewoo Lanos (or was it Kalos?). When it was a Daewoo it was a sh!t car, now that it's been rebadged as a Holden and had some exterior and interior work done (to Holden's specifications) it's still a sh!t car yet it cost more. So basically you're just paying more to get the turd polished up so that it doesn't look like turd...

[ICACHA]

Stop swearing.

Upgrading the ground doesn't solve the light dimming issue when the A/C kicks in.

sometimes you have to raise your voice and add a swear word in for those who dont listen, now with what you said, i assume you have prrof of what you claim? if not you also dont know what your talking about :wave:

lights that dim when a system is cranked is a sign that the ground return to the battery is crapola, now the only way to fix it is find out, with a multimeter and some time, where the ground issues are, in most cases it will be the amp ground. plus a lot of bunnings, DIYer's, dont upgrade the battery ground. if your going to run a 4awg power cable to the amps then you also need a 4awg ground cable added, your taking power out, but on what is it going to return? on that shitty little factory ground cable?

it aint rocket science, but looks like all those mentally challenged people seem to go out and buy this or buy that to try and fix something that is sooooooo simple its just they dont like to listen to people in the know, but rather opt to listen to the salesman that wants to offload a shiny new cap or chrome plated alternator. that does also depend, but if you go up towards the top of this thread you will see where ive mentioned when a cap is needed as a rule of thumb.

[ICACHA]

might also want to have a look at this thread, it seems like this person also has the same issue... http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27381

[aaronng]

sometimes you have to raise your voice and add a swear word in for those who dont listen, now with what you said, i assume you have prrof of what you claim? if not you also dont know what your talking about :wave:

lights that dim when a system is cranked is a sign that the ground return to the battery is crapola, now the only way to fix it is find out, with a multimeter and some time, where the ground issues are, in most cases it will be the amp ground. plus a lot of bunnings, DIYer's, dont upgrade the battery ground. if your going to run a 4awg power cable to the amps then you also need a 4awg ground cable added, your taking power out, but on what is it going to return? on that shitty little factory ground cable?

it aint rocket science, but looks like all those mentally challenged people seem to go out and buy this or buy that to try and fix something that is sooooooo simple its just they dont like to listen to people in the know, but rather opt to listen to the salesman that wants to offload a shiny new cap or chrome plated alternator. that does also depend, but if you go up towards the top of this thread you will see where ive mentioned when a cap is needed as a rule of thumb.
No swearing means no swearing. Please refer to the Terms & Conditions (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/legal.php) where you should refrain from posting offensive or vulgar content. BTW, I'm not against your opinion on the caps/grounding. I'm just against the swearing ;)

With regards to the grounding, I've installed my grounding kit made from 4 gauge wiring, gold terminals and connectors. I replaced existing grounds including the negative terminal to the chassis and added new ones to areas that required it (alternator and intake manifold sensor ground on CL9). While it did solve warm starting problems, it did not help with the dimming light issue when the A/C kicked in. It's the alternator that is not handling the current draw of the A/C kicking in.

My next step was replacing the stock battery (Yuasa low capacity, 300CCA and goes flat within 30 minutes of playing the stock audio system). New high capacity battery did not fix the lights dimming. But now, my cold starting is great!

The next avenue is the capacitors...

[Spec_R]

In sticking with that automotive related anaology, lets take a look at the current Barina and old Daewoo Lanos (or was it Kalos?). When it was a Daewoo it was a sh!t car, now that it's been rebadged as a Holden and had some exterior and interior work done (to Holden's specifications) it's still a sh!t car yet it cost more. So basically you're just paying more to get the turd polished up so that it doesn't look like turd...

in this case yes but that not to say that 100% how things work, you come to conclusion too soon by just comparing thes two brands, if you break it down im sure their much more imrovement (parts wise and design) keep in mind that both these products are made with a set low budget aiming at low cost sale price (therefore cheap material annd design compare to others) why not compare it to the HSV (yep you guess it from holden:same manufacture) im sure the technology and Material is DIFFICULT (so how can it all be the same?). So I quote what the other guy said "all the SAME" WRONG.

eg. say you are a curtain manufacturewhom made curtain for other company oversea, Australia order 100 curtains with cheap cotton dye material where as America order also 100 curtains but with better texture silk fabric (which will cost them more because better materia is used so there resell price will be higher). see what what i mean from same maufacture but different quality because manufacture like these make to requested specification. Im trying to proof my point to the fellow that said that all cap made from the same company therefore is all the same except the badging. One company doesnt produce everything they buy bits and pieces from other manufacture then they might go through another company that mass produce their product.
conclusion: just because of some products from the same manufacture for made for different brand using the same technology or architexture that's not to make a generalised idea that all the other product is of the same assumption. 80% of the time what you buy is what you, im saying 80% because there will always be exception.

[ICACHA]

My next step was replacing the stock battery (Yuasa low capacity, 300CCA and goes flat within 30 minutes of playing the stock audio system). New high capacity battery did not fix the lights dimming. But now, my cold starting is great!

The next avenue is the capacitors...

it sounds like your battery is cactus anyway if its dead after only half an hour, that could explain why your still getting dimming of the lights. possibly a cell or two is dead and wont hold full charge.

swearing is good for the soul :)

[aaronng]

it sounds like your battery is cactus anyway if its dead after only half an hour, that could explain why your still getting dimming of the lights. possibly a cell or two is dead and wont hold full charge.

swearing is good for the soul :)
No, my battery was fine because I don't play my audio without the car running. But many (and I mean many) TSX owners and a few Euro owners have experienced this. The battery is inadequate for the Euro which runs everything electronically. The part number of the battery is the same as the one used in the Mazda 121.

Anyway, if you read my post, the same dimming happens with my new battery. New battery is much better in terms of CCA and RC. When weighed, the new battery weighs about 60% more than the stock battery and they are the same size! Hence the cell/energy density is much higher.

[DSNTGR8]

i didnt expect my topic to turn into such a debate, lol

[aaronng]

i didnt expect my topic to turn into such a debate, lol
As long as the thread generates good info for ppl searching for it, then I'm all for it. hehe:thumbsup:

[mj3610]

With regards to the grounding, I've installed my grounding kit made from 4 gauge wiring, gold terminals and connectors. I replaced existing grounds including the negative terminal to the chassis and added new ones to areas that required it (alternator and intake manifold sensor ground on CL9). While it did solve warm starting problems, it did not help with the dimming light issue when the A/C kicked in. It's the alternator that is not handling the current draw of the A/C kicking in.

My next step was replacing the stock battery (Yuasa low capacity, 300CCA and goes flat within 30 minutes of playing the stock audio system). New high capacity battery did not fix the lights dimming. But now, my cold starting is great!

The next avenue is the capacitors...



LOLLLL u did all that on a 2004 euro?

[urtwhistle]

well i had the problem ur talking about. i droped a 800cca 80-90amp/h into my car all problems disssappeared and funnily enough the stereo sounds a 100x better now that the amps arnt starved of power, by the way my amps have the cappacity for 2000rms sooo its not like im only running a little 4 channel. i hope that may be of some help

[aaronng]

LOLLLL u did all that on a 2004 euro?
Newer cars need beefier alternators compared to older cars. So new cars are more succeptible to dimming problems, especially one that is built to a low price with puny alternators (Euro). I changed the cheapest parts first so see if I could fix it. So yeah, I did it to a 2004 Euro, because the lights were dimming. If it wasn't dimming, I wouldn't have touched it.

[ICACHA]

i didnt expect my topic to turn into such a debate, lol

call it lost in translation :)

[ICACHA]

As long as the thread generates good info for ppl searching for it, then I'm all for it. hehe:thumbsup:

for sure :)

[ICACHA]

Newer cars need beefier alternators compared to older cars. So new cars are more succeptible to dimming problems, especially one that is built to a low price with puny alternators (Euro). I changed the cheapest parts first so see if I could fix it. So yeah, I did it to a 2004 Euro, because the lights were dimming. If it wasn't dimming, I wouldn't have touched it.

thats why i wont give up my CD accord :p

[aaronng]

thats why i wont give up my CD accord :p
We have a CD accord too. Damn thing is built so nicely. Starter motor is so beefy, the engine kicks over with only 1 turn of the starter. The stock battery is almost twice the size of that in the Euro!

Just changed its fuel filter too, and it pulls as hard as when it was new 12 years ago!

[mj3610]

thats why i wont give up my CD accord :p
LOL cd accords have have been known to have nugget gearboxes, starter motors and distributors :)

[ICACHA]

mine is a gem, Robert @ Hanny's has only ever rebuilt my starter since Ive had it (5 or 6 yrs me thinks). as Peter said to me, hard to find and also hard to sell (manual) :) even harder for my old man to steal it from me (doesnt drive manual) hahahahahahaha