DIY: Ghetto dodgy custom airbox for SRI (Accord Euro). Temperature on page 5!

[aaronng]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk! If your car explodes or your engine ingests a huge chunk of aluminium or you get defected because your airbox looks so dodgy that the cops can't believe it's made from aluminium, it is not the fault of Ozhonda or me.:cool:

Aim: To make an airbox for SRI. Everyone loves a CAI. So I wanted to be different. So I got an Apexi intake. While it is a dry filter, cops in NSW don't care about that. To them, exposed pod = defect. The only SRI + enclosure that I've seen commercially available is the GruppeM. Do I have $1000 to spare for it? No. I guess you don't as well. Also, you probably like dodgy ghetto™ DIYs. So those are the reasons why you are reading this ghetto™ DIY. Messing around with ghetto™ stuff is always good. :thumbsup:

Required: Sockets that fit the bolts you want to take off. Cardboard, pen, measuring tape, chicken scissors, tin snips (the larger the better), rotary cutting tool with cut-off wheels and sanding bits, rubber mallet, hammer, hole punch, riveter (what a weird name), piece of wood, sheet aluminium (I used 1.0mm thick), 2-3mm thick aluminium bar, aluminium rivets (size 4-1 and 4-2, must be aluminium if you are using sheet aluminium), 1/8" washers, 5mm tubing, glue, masking tape, sandpaper, permanent marker.

Optional: Sheet rubber (1.5mm), high temp spray paint or engine enamel, aluminium vent piping.

Steps:
1) Take off your existing airbox (and resonator) and fit your intake. Follow one of the other DIYs for this.
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9098/0exposedintakeep6.jpg

2) Measure out the dimensions for your custom airbox. It helps to make a sketch of it. Then to impress people, transfer it over to powerpoint. Different intake brands require different airbox dimensions. Note: duplicate the bottom left piece but with slightly smaller outer dimensions so that you can seal the part directly beneath the intake arm.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/4199/intakeplanswe7.jpg

3) Do a sketch of it in life-size on cardboard. I used cardboard from a box, so I had to use super kitchen chicken scissors to cut it (thanks Ahmie!).
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8406/1instructionsrq5.jpg

4) Cut the cardboard parts out while leaving a slight 5mm margin on all the sides so that you can trim it down to fit your chassis perfectly. Fit the pieces in as you go along and use nice masking take that matches your chassis colour to hold the parts together. Don't be afraid to make a 2nd cardboard template. Usually, the first one gets butchered so much that it doesn't fit well. My cardboard pieces shown below are "2nd generation".
Side 1:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3241/3sidevu7.jpg

Side 2:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/9135/4completedxo1.jpg

Top cover:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/7968/2coverdj2.jpg

5) Take a deep breath as you put all the pieces together and show off your dodgy "mi goreng" airbox to everyone! You can try starting your engine too, but keep a fire extinguisher or a bucket of water nearby just in case.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/4932/5assembledja5.jpg

6) Now, decide which parts of the airbox will be joined as 1 piece for better sealing. Also, the larger the piece, the more difficult to install and remove. I decided to have the side pieces joined together, leaving the top cover and the piece that seals the underside of the intake arm as separate parts.

7) The fun part begins.... giving your hand blisters. Trace the airbox shape onto your material of choice. I used 1.0mm aluminium. It's too thick for tin snips. I used the dremel for hard to reach places and to cut the curved edges. Trim to fit in your car.

8) Now it's time to join them together. Mark the points where you want to rivet with a permanent marker (you should know by now that a ball point pen doesn't work well on a smooth surface). Use the hole punch and hammer to make an indent that stops your drill bit from sliding around when you drill. Put the piece back in to your car so you can mark where the holes should be made on the 2nd piece that is to be joined to the 1st. Hopefully you get everything done right. For 2 pieces of 1.0mm aluminium, you can use the 4-1 sized ones. For anything thicker, you're looking at using the 4-2 sized rivets. To prevent the aluminium from scratching your paint, split the 5mm tubing on one side using a small pair of sharp scissors so that you can attach it to the edges of the aluminium. Use Tarzan or UHU glue (you'll get glue on your fingers, so don't use something too strong) to keep it in place.

Once it fits, cut a piece of the 2-3mm thick aluminium bar and do the same once you locate it for the top cover. It will hold the cover to your chassis using the airbox mounting hole.
Top cover:
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5374/07topcovernm8.jpg

Side:
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6184/08sidecovertx5.jpg

Put into the car:
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/5718/09aluminiumcompletedxr8.jpg

9) If you had followed my example and used aluminium, you would quickly find out that aluminium is a great conductor of heat. Also, it is very quick to release heat into the air that is trapped in the enclosure. So I used sheet rubber from Clarke Rubber. For my dimensions, 20cm x 150cm was more than enough with leftover to spare. Arrange the rubber sheet on the inside of the intake box. I chose to place the rubber on the inside because air that comes into contact in the rubber would heat up less. If you put it on the outside of the airbox, you'd have the aluminium surface eventually heating up to the same as without having insulation and you'd be back at square one.

Using the hole punch, hammer and drill, repeat to make some holes to rivet through. Start from one end and make holes in the rubber using the drill. Rivet using the 1/8" washer on the rubber side so that the rivet doesn't tear through the rubber. Trim off any excess using a good sharp knife without cutting your finger off.

Doesn't the intake look like a Hard Gay intake now?
Top cover:
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/554/10topcoverrubberee1.jpg

Side:
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/6485/11sidecoverrubberer4.jpg

Another close up because it's so kinky:
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/6110/12sidecoverrubberdetailhk3.jpg

10) Because the rubber increases the thickness of the airbox, pray that it still fits in your car. If it fits the apexi, which has a wide but short pod, then it should fit other brands that are narrower.
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/4703/13installingsidery5.jpg

11) The top cover will require some adjustment to the edges of the lid so that it fits in with the rubber insulation. Once that's done, put it together and admire your new airbox
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/9599/14assembledzr7.jpg

12) Doesn't the airbox look so stealthy?
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/354/15enginebaywz5.jpg

13) The next step will be spray painting the airbox black with engine enamel and routing a pipe from the hole in the chassis to the fog light cover. Don't you think the location of the hole is so convenient?
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/6058/16intakeholefo2.jpg

I'll update this thread further down the road once I have painted the airbox and added the piping. For now, enjoy new Ghetto™ airbox!

[aaronng]

Update FUUUUUUUUUUU~~~~

I have installed the ducting pipe to from the fog light cover to the bottom of the airbox cavity.

1) Here is where we left off. This is the hole which we want to connect to the bumper, in the most dodgy way.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/7008/17intakeholewithsidetz8.jpg

2) To be dodgy, we will do this without removing the bumper. Not sure if you haven't realised it yet, but if you have foglights or have an 06 model you're either out of luck or you can do a modified version to the side of the front bar intake or the tiny little cover at the corner. I have an 04 base model, so I get to do some dodgy cutting to my foglight cover. Now, jack your car up, use stands if you want or risk your car going down to the ground. Since I wasn't underneath the car, I just used the jack to hold the car up, checking it up every 10 minutes and jacking it up more if necessary.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/6623/18takeoffwheelandlinertf6.jpg

3) Now, get the mice 10cm aluminium piping, stretch it out and put it through the hole from the bottom. I had to squeeze it a bit to get it through, so it looks ultra dodgy.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/941/19holewithpipedj5.jpg

4) Before I forget, put your hose clamp around the tube before you cable tie the end to the foglight mounting hole. Use your favourite tape (mine is masking tape) and do a little band around the end of the pipe at the bumper side. Then using a sharp screwdriver, poke a hole through the pipe so that you can slip a cable tie though the pipe. The tape will prevent the cable tie from tearing your soft aluminium pipe. In the pic below, you can also see the headlight grounding point. You can use that to mount a thin piece of aluminium that will be held to the pipe through the hose clamp.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5109/20clamparoundthepipenb7.jpg

5) Now, go back to your engine bay and look at the dodgy crushed pipe. I cut the pipe around the edges so that I could fold it back on to the chassis. Since I didn't have my aluminium ring to secure the pipe to the chassis, I just used masking tape as a temporary solution. As dodgy as this mod is supposed to be, using masking tape to hold the pipe down exceeds all levels of dodgyness that even I would not use long term. It looks so bad that I am even hesitant in posting the pic below.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3923/21holewithpipetapedupdc3.jpg

6) Take a step back and check everything. Check the position of the pipe at the bumper, check the tightness of the hose clamp and press out any indents that you might have inadvertantly left on your soft pipe.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9952/22pipethroughfoglightpa3.jpg

7) Put everything back together, making sure that the clips and screws underneath the front bumper actually catch on to the wheel liner piece as you tighten. My fog light cover had holes cut through it using a dremel. A word of advice, use a low speed setting. The plastic melts and readheres to itself if you use too high a speed. Look how stealthy it is!
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6615/23stealthylookge3.jpg

8) Here's a closer look of the dodgy intake pipe.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/7349/24closeupnz2.jpg

Impressions: With the piping, coolant temperatures drop about 2ºC when I am driving and go back up to normal when the car is stopped. So cold air is getting in. I just need that scantool. Hurry up and arrive!!!!!!!!!!

2nd update FUUUUUUUU~~~~~~

Due to the nice weather, I painted the airbox with black engine enamel. Here is the final product (still needs a touchup here and there).

Let's play "Spot the airbox":
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/4146/25paintedqs4.jpg

Got some temperature numbers today.
Ambient: 16ºC
IAT (idle for 5 minutes): 38ºC
IAT (moving at 80km/h): 24ºC

[teaseR]

Nice thats what im gonna do after Uni EXAMs!!!

[sodaz]

Very nice "Ghetto" intake Aaron. :thumbsup: The heat shield shape reminds me of the top fuel power chamber. Wonder how it performs compared to something like the Gruppe M which has a full CF shield.

[Pogi]

You cannot get anymore yum cha than that Aaron. :)

Great effort. hehehe

[aaronng]

Very nice "Ghetto" intake Aaron. :thumbsup: The heat shield shape reminds me of the top fuel power chamber. Wonder how it performs compared to something like the Gruppe M which has a full CF shield.
With regards to the shield itself, CF conducts heat slower than aluminium. So that's a plus for GruppeM. With regards to performance, the filter and pod mounting design to the intake arm has more effect than the shield design itself.

[aaronng]

You cannot get anymore yum cha than that Aaron. :)

Great effort. hehehe
Yum cha is always good! Damn, you're making me hungry again.

[tony1234]

Good effort aaron.Nice and detailed.I'll wait for the JTUNE one,mainly because i'm too lazy to go through the effort you have gone to!!!!:thumbsup:

[kam]

ive never been pulled over before in relation to mods, only for speeding, so i wouldnt know, but, would i need to do this mod in VIC? i remember reading that a pod is OK ?

[aaronng]

ive never been pulled over before in relation to mods, only for speeding, so i wouldnt know, but, would i need to do this mod in VIC? i remember reading that a pod is OK ?
VIC EPA has a statement saying that open element dry pods on EFI cars are legal. NSW EPA doesn't have that statement, so cops here go around defecting ALL exposed pods...

So technically, you don't need it if you have a dry pod. Print out the VIC EPA document just in case you need it. http://epanote2.epa.vic.gov.au/EPA/publications.nsf/2f1c2625731746aa4a256ce90001cbb5/c90ec843f3bbbe8fca256d9f00181c59/$FILE/1031.pdf

[SiReal]

Awesome awesome stuff. Alot of work it seems but well worth the result.

[yfin]

Very nice work. So no rattling sounds - eg the shield against the body, the lid, or anything like that?

[aaronng]

Very nice work. So no rattling sounds - eg the shield against the body, the lid, or anything like that?
No rattling because everything is tight. The aluminium is 1.0mm thick, so it does not vibrate as much as the usual 0.6mm sheet aluminium that is commonsoly sold at Bunnings. Edges that come into contact with the chassis and the stainless steel intake pipe are covered with pvc tubing. The aluminium pieces that go around the intake pipe are friction fitted to be super tight as well. The lid is secured to the chassis using thick non-flexible aluminium bar.

It was also silent before I added the rubber insulation.

[Chris_F]

With regards to the shield itself, CF conducts heat slower than aluminium. So that's a plus for GruppeM. With regards to performance, the filter and pod mounting design to the intake arm has more effect than the shield design itself.

I'm very impressed! this should work just aswell as the gruppeM design and it should look good when it's painted too. Like you mentioned the only significant distance (assuming the heat shielding works practically the same) is the design of the pod, and the fact that the gruppeM is mounted directly to the end of the stock intake tubing wheras the apexi design has the extended alluminium.

I think you've come up with a close to ideal design :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[JDMiss]

interesting read indeed

good work aaron :thumbsup: :)

[aaronng]

Nice DIY good work. Don't worry about the box heating the air. The volume of air moving so fast through the enclosure prevents the transfer of heat to the air column.
There is some heating. I have consistently lower engine coolant temperatures when cruising now. I'm waiting for my OBDII scantool to come in so I can read IAT numbers. Will report the temperature drop once I get it.

[aaronng]

Update FUUUUUUUUUUU~~~~

I have installed the ducting pipe to from the fog light cover to the bottom of the airbox cavity.

1) Here is where we left off. This is the hole which we want to connect to the bumper, in the most dodgy way.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/7008/17intakeholewithsidetz8.jpg

2) To be dodgy, we will do this without removing the bumper. Not sure if you haven't realised it yet, but if you have foglights or have an 06 model you're either out of luck or you can do a modified version to the side of the front bar intake or the tiny little cover at the corner. I have an 04 base model, so I get to do some dodgy cutting to my foglight cover. Now, jack your car up, use stands if you want or risk your car going down to the ground. Since I wasn't underneath the car, I just used the jack to hold the car up, checking it up every 10 minutes and jacking it up more if necessary.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/6623/18takeoffwheelandlinertf6.jpg

3) Now, get the mice 10cm aluminium piping, stretch it out and put it through the hole from the bottom. I had to squeeze it a bit to get it through, so it looks ultra dodgy.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/941/19holewithpipedj5.jpg

4) Before I forget, put your hose clamp around the tube before you cable tie the end to the foglight mounting hole. Use your favourite tape (mine is masking tape) and do a little band around the end of the pipe at the bumper side. Then using a sharp screwdriver, poke a hole through the pipe so that you can slip a cable tie though the pipe. The tape will prevent the cable tie from tearing your soft aluminium pipe. In the pic below, you can also see the headlight grounding point. You can use that to mount a thin piece of aluminium that will be held to the pipe through the hose clamp.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5109/20clamparoundthepipenb7.jpg

5) Now, go back to your engine bay and look at the dodgy crushed pipe. I cut the pipe around the edges so that I could fold it back on to the chassis. Since I didn't have my aluminium ring to secure the pipe to the chassis, I just used masking tape as a temporary solution. As dodgy as this mod is supposed to be, using masking tape to hold the pipe down exceeds all levels of dodgyness that even I would not use long term. It looks so bad that I am even hesitant in posting the pic below.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3923/21holewithpipetapedupdc3.jpg

6) Take a step back and check everything. Check the position of the pipe at the bumper, check the tightness of the hose clamp and press out any indents that you might have inadvertantly left on your soft pipe.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9952/22pipethroughfoglightpa3.jpg

7) Put everything back together, making sure that the clips and screws underneath the front bumper actually catch on to the wheel liner piece as you tighten. My fog light cover had holes cut through it using a dremel. A word of advice, use a low speed setting. The plastic melts and readheres to itself if you use too high a speed. Look how stealthy it is!
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6615/23stealthylookge3.jpg

8) Here's a closer look of the dodgy intake pipe.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/7349/24closeupnz2.jpg

Impressions: With the piping, coolant temperatures drop about 2ºC when I am driving and go back up to normal when the car is stopped. So cold air is getting in. I just need that scantool. Hurry up and arrive!!!!!!!!!!

[aaronng]

Good effort aaron.Nice and detailed.I'll wait for the JTUNE one,mainly because i'm too lazy to go through the effort you have gone to!!!!:thumbsup:
I reckon the Jtune one will sound great! After I added the rubber insulation, the induction roar is noticeably muffled. It's still loud but the clarity is gone. :thumbdwn:

[egSi]

dodgy and ghetto, things i would of never assosciated with a euro lol.

nice one mate :thumbsup:

[EuroDude]

Nice! Well done.

So how many new engine bay scratches do you have? :D

[aaronng]

Nice! Well done.

So how many new engine bay scratches do you have? :D
Nah, the edges are covered with PVC tubing. The only scratches are on the gray plastic bit on the side of the engine bay and a few on the front end just next to the headlight adjustment hole all from size fitting before adding the protection.

[iced]

nice and simple
i like
with some clever one can improve ont he mounting and bending of the aluminium for a better off the shelf finish.

[xiang]

wow, it didnt turn out half bad.
Seems like a very good idea. How much did it end up costing you? less than an injen etc?
I have a mate who owns some metal factory or something. I might follow in your footsteps n see if he can cut and bend everything for me.

Good work mate, top stuff!

[aaronng]

wow, it didnt turn out half bad.
Seems like a very good idea. How much did it end up costing you? less than an injen etc?
I have a mate who owns some metal factory or something. I might follow in your footsteps n see if he can cut and bend everything for me.

Good work mate, top stuff!
Price of materials was $28 for aluminium (Capral, I used 1/2 of it), $13 for rubber sheet (Clark Rubber, used 2/3), $4 for rivets (Bunnings, heaps remaining), $3 for washers (Bunnings, heaps remaining), $2 for PVC tube (Bunnings, heaps left), aluminium pipe $10 (Bunnings), hose clamp $4 (I think).

The most expensive part are the tools required. Tin snips $9, riveter $11, hole punch $7. Socket set, pliers and dremel I already had them.

So that's $91 so far. Add in $9 for the engine enamel to respray. $100.

You can't compare this airbox to an Injen as the Injen is a CAI. This is an SRI, more similar to the GruppeM.

[tony1234]

I reckon the Jtune one will sound great! After I added the rubber insulation, the induction roar is noticeably muffled. It's still loud but the clarity is gone. :thumbdwn:
Yeah,i hope so.With all the hype i hope the JTUNE gear lives up to expectation!Re: induction roar look on the bright side,you now have stealth!!!!:thumbsup:

[civic_mods]

i notice u change ur battery as well???
LOL

Very nice and well planned jor indded!!!
Thumbs Up atw!

[aaronng]

i notice u change ur battery as well???
LOL

Very nice and well planned jor indded!!!
Thumbs Up atw!
Yup, my lights were dimming everytime the aircond compressor kicked in. Even with only 1 map light on and every other light off, it still dimmed. So I got a battery with higher CCA and RC. It helped a bit (not as dim), but didn't totally solve the problem.

[BusterSonic12]

damn ghetto LOL nice one aaron... A+

[sodaz]

Yeah it's very nice work. Ghetto and Dodgy, yet....so brilliant. :thumbsup:

[aaronng]

2nd update FUUUUUUUU~~~~~~

Due to the nice weather, I painted the airbox with black engine enamel. Here is the final product (still needs a touchup here and there).

Let's play "Spot the airbox":
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/4146/25paintedqs4.jpg

[BusterSonic12]

nice job :D

[|N|]

aaaron take my car for a weekend and do it

[aaronng]

aaaron take my car for a weekend and do it
B series........ I'll end up cruising the south coast and end up not doing anything to your car. Hhheheheheh.

Just do it over the weekend man.

[phantom_civic]

ghetto style yO!
love ur work.
looks almost OEM now.

[JasonGilholme]

impressed! :thumbsup:

[sodaz]

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Blue_Steel]

Wheres the air gonna enter. Wont it get too hot?

Sorry didnt see ur pipe jump too soon.

Looks great! Good job!

[aaronng]

Wheres the air gonna enter. Wont it get too hot?

Sorry didnt see ur pipe jump too soon.

Looks great! Good job!
Nah, you were right. I was running the car for a few weeks without the pipe and it did get hot. I didn't really notice a difference in performance, but the coolant temperatures were slightly higher even when cruising.

[Blue_Steel]

WHy didn't u just opt for a CAI? Cops won't bother u cus the pod isn't in the engine bay.

[aaronng]

WHy didn't u just opt for a CAI? Cops won't bother u cus the pod isn't in the engine bay.
I wanted to be different and have a dry pod. My pod doesn't use oil for filtration. Getting a CAI and then this pod would cost me over $500.

Anyway, SRI + enclosure has less loss on the lower RPM end.

[Blue_Steel]

Try ebay mate u could get cheaper ones. does the same job

[aaronng]

Try ebay mate u could get cheaper ones. does the same job
I'm dodgy in the way I do my DIYs, but I don't compromise on quality. I won't touch any of the filters that I have no idea about the filtration quality. Intake piping maybe.

Same with my ground cable and airbox, I use only the best in materials and I go about it in a scientific way.

BTW, I notice you drive a Sportivo? Come to the meets!! I like Sportivos very very much. I nearly bought one before settling on my Euro.

[sodaz]

Nah, you were right. I was running the car for a few weeks without the pipe and it did get hot. I didn't really notice a difference in performance, but the coolant temperatures were slightly higher even when cruising.

The only problem i see with the open fog cover is that water (car wash/heavy rain) and a lot more dust can get in which means the filter will get dirty a lot quicker. I was going to dremmel some openings in the fog cover but eventually didn't do it.

What do you think about this?

[tony1234]

The only problem i see with the open fog cover is that water (car wash/heavy rain) and a lot more dust can get in which means the filter will get dirty a lot quicker. I was going to dremmel some openings in the fog cover but eventually didn't do it.

What do you think about this?
You obviously would.You could stick some mesh (metal.the type they use on screen doors)on the back of the cover with a hot glue gun.That should help a bit.

[aaronng]

The only problem i see with the open fog cover is that water (car wash/heavy rain) and a lot more dust can get in which means the filter will get dirty a lot quicker. I was going to dremmel some openings in the fog cover but eventually didn't do it.

What do you think about this?
It does get more dusty, but water is not an issue. Then again, I wash my car using a watering can.

[Chris_F]

the painted box looks great in the engine bay now... the cusco bar looks like its floating haha

[Omotesando]

Hey - that airbox looks fabulous for a DIY job! WELL DONE!

I think what AARONNG has set up is definitely the BEST set up that can be available for the Euro, or most other cars... great minds think alike keke!! :D

I don't like the idea of CAI - the piping from engine to filter is just way too long.. !

[RMN15N]

nice work ghetto aaronng.... +1 ;)

[aaronng]

Thanks!

[aaronng]

Got some temperature numbers today.
Ambient: 16ºC
IAT (idle for 5 minutes): 38ºC
IAT (moving at 80km/h): 24ºC

[xiang]

Have any numbers to compare to?
like stock, and with out the box etc?

[aaronng]

Have any numbers to compare to?
like stock, and with out the box etc?
Not at the moment. But I'll bring the reader out to the next meet so if your car is stock, we can try to get some numbers out. It doesn't work all the time for some reason. Trying to get a laptop to run with it.

[xiang]

coool beaannnnsss!
wanna see how it goes!

[tony1234]

Yeah.I'd be interested too.

[|N|]

i was in it last nite.... feels good...

[Chi]

i was in it last nite.... feels good...

Was in it last night too.

Sounds very nice.

Didnt think Accords pulled so nicely.

Especially with 4 gay guys in the car gay listeing to weird ass japanese music

[aaronng]

Was in it last night too.

Sounds very nice.

Didnt think Accords pulled so nicely.

Especially with 4 gay guys in the car gay listeing to weird ass japanese music
Super Rabbit FTW!

[yfin]

Not at the moment. But I'll bring the reader out to the next meet so if your car is stock, we can try to get some numbers out. It doesn't work all the time for some reason. Trying to get a laptop to run with it.

Awesome, what other things can you do with your scan tool? Can you get software that can show a virtual dashboard on the laptop (eg speed, tacho, 0-100 etc)?

[aaronng]

Awesome, what other things can you do with your scan tool? Can you get software that can show a virtual dashboard on the laptop (eg speed, tacho, 0-100 etc)?
It reads out info from the OBD II port. Info depends on the car. For the Euro, I get speed, RPM, throttle position, intake pressure/vacuum, intake temperature, coolant temperature, ignition timing advance, short term fuel trim, engine load and oxygen sensor reading.

Depending on your software and the speed at which you can read off the serial port, you can get 0-100 times.

[philBo]

i was in it last nite.... feels good...

i was in it too last week! car sounds and responds pretty well...was surprised that that was his only mod :p

[tony1234]

i was in it too last week! car sounds and responds pretty well...was surprised that that was his only mod :p
Seems everyone was in aarons car exept me!!!!!:(

[philBo]

Seems everyone was in aarons car exept me!!!!!:(

yeah aaron gets around :)


anyways...good job aaron! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[aaronng]

LOL, my Euro's a car, not the town bicycle. :p

[xiang]

muahahaha!
i copied your piping!
and got it goin into the stock air box..

not as loud as when just the resonator was removed.

[aaronng]

muahahaha!
i copied your piping!
and got it goin into the stock air box..

not as loud as when just the resonator was removed.
Haha, now you have to come out the the next friday meet to show off your dodgy piping!

[xiang]

hahaha!
also my dodgey flyscreen on the foglight cover. =]

[aaronng]

LOL, I didn't do the flyscreen. How coarse is yoru flyscreen? Got a pic?

[|N|]

aaron where is mine?

[xiang]

kinda hard to take a pic.. but ill try..
i had a cokaroach in my air filter... :S so yeah i figured id put something on that'd stop big things.

[tony1234]

kinda hard to take a pic.. but ill try..
i had a cokaroach in my air filter... :S so yeah i figured id put something on that'd stop big things.
Good idea!Show us a pic.:thumbsup:

[aaronng]

LOL cockroach!!! That's it, I need some flyscreen.......

[ekhybrid]

Not at the moment. But I'll bring the reader out to the next meet so if your car is stock, we can try to get some numbers out. It doesn't work all the time for some reason. Trying to get a laptop to run with it.

yeah ive noticed that,
did you build the obd reader yourself? wat software you running?

[xiang]

Here it is,
I didnt know weather it was working or not, then when i went out to take photos o found a chunk of bark stuck in it.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2457/img1354nj2.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1008/img1356jj4.jpg
http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/4218/img1361zh2.jpg
http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/7800/img1355js7.jpg

And yes that is gaffer tape, used it to hold down the fly screen while the glue was drying..
havnt been bothered to take it off. Ghetto for sure...

[tony1234]

Here it is,
I didnt know weather it was working or not, then when i went out to take photos o found a chunk of bark stuck in it.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2457/img1354nj2.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1008/img1356jj4.jpg
http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/4218/img1361zh2.jpg
http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/7800/img1355js7.jpg

And yes that is gaffer tape, used it to hold down the fly screen while the glue was drying..
havnt been bothered to take it off. Ghetto for sure...
No.Looks good.(once u take off gaffer tape!!!!)

[xiang]

hahaha..
yeah i took it off..

but its not like you can really see it anyway.
it's just reassurance i wont have a pet cat in my air filter.

[aaronng]

My air filter IS the pet cat! Haha
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7990/catakewr0.jpg

[stephen8512]

lol aaron u obsessed with that picture arent u
:D

[tony1234]

My air filter IS the pet cat! Haha
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7990/catakewr0.jpg
Ha,ha,good pic.I want to see a pic of a hi flow cat!!!!

[aaronng]

yeah ive noticed that,
did you build the obd reader yourself? wat software you running?
Oops, missed your post. I bought it off ebay, the ELM323. Software, I'm using OBDGauge for pocketPC. Going to have to source a laptop with a serial port to test it out with. My pocketpc has a non-standard serial port, so it could be causing the dropouts. Laptops with serial ports are rare post-Pentium2.

[ekhybrid]

Oops, missed your post. I bought it off ebay, the ELM323. Software, I'm using OBDGauge for pocketPC. Going to have to source a laptop with a serial port to test it out with. My pocketpc has a non-standard serial port, so it could be causing the dropouts. Laptops with serial ports are rare post-Pentium2.

ive used a few obd softwares, they either drop out or dont connect to my p3 laptop lol. thought that it was my dodgy wiring but it seems like u get drop outs too. :confused:

[as001]

This has to be the best DIY job I've ever seen for cold air take mad props to ya

[Mrkrooz]

This has to be the best DIY job I've ever seen for cold air take mad props to ya

Agree pretty well done :thumbsup:

[yfin]

Oops, missed your post. I bought it off ebay, the ELM323. Software, I'm using OBDGauge for pocketPC. Going to have to source a laptop with a serial port to test it out with. My pocketpc has a non-standard serial port, so it could be causing the dropouts. Laptops with serial ports are rare post-Pentium2.

Next time you are in Melb let me know - I have a couple of laptops with serial ports - an old P3 that has 1 directly and a P4 that has one via a port replicator. I would be interested to see this working.

[kazam]

can anyone in sydney do this on my eh9?

[aaronng]

can anyone in sydney do this on my eh9?

DIY it! It's fun. :)

[kazam]

:( im not good at these things

[aaronng]

First time for everything. :) Just don't cut your fingers off with the tin snips.

[Bludger]

a lil bit off topic.....

whats wrong with using regular rivets with aluminum?

why are the aluminium rivets necessary?

[aaronng]

a lil bit off topic.....

whats wrong with using regular rivets with aluminum?

why are the aluminium rivets necessary?

Because aluminium is more reactive than the steel used in normal rivets. So if you used steel rivets, the steel would cause the aluminium to undergo accelerated corrosion. Similarly, if you used tin coated rivets (tin is less reactive than steel) on a steel airbox, the steel would rust.

[Bludger]

Because aluminium is more reactive than the steel used in normal rivets. So if you used steel rivets, the steel would cause the aluminium to undergo accelerated corrosion. Similarly, if you used tin coated rivets (tin is less reactive than steel) on a steel airbox, the steel would rust.thanks:thumbsup:

[lo0se3r]

Just out of curiousity, has anyone passed their pinkslip with the custom airbox?

Thanks

[aaronng]

Just out of curiousity, has anyone passed their pinkslip with the custom airbox?

Thanks

I passed blueslip! That's more stringent than pinkslip.

[xenonkuraz]

Nice job aaronng. I just did this for my car, only took a couple hours ;)

[curtis265]

wow good job! Ghettoness at it's best.

[denot]

hey aarong, have you got the temperature comparison yet?

[aznalex]

you are 1 crafty soab
+rep

[Babbz5]

Good write up mate.
What adaptor did you use?