B16a Service Manual AND which way can the engine be turned.

[SIKCVC]

Hey guys, Got a few quick questions. Does anyone have a link to a downloadable service manual for the 2nd gen / 3rd gen B16a's, looking in your direction Danny!!! and also I was told today that the engine can only be turned one way. If so which way by how much, As i need to line up the cam pullies and crank, and what happens if the engine is turned the wrong way? is it just bad or does it totally **** it up?

Thanks guys... I might end up getting help from lube mobile tomorow :P

Nick

[BLKCRX]

Turn the engine by hand any way you like form the harmonic balancer ( take the plugs out so you don’t build any compression )

The engine cam's spin anti clockwise normally though when looking at the cam gears from the front of the engine.


Regards James

[SIKCVC]

so no damage will be done to the engine by turning it the wrong way?

[Nuttz]

hehee sorry to freak u out!!! :)

also check out this site:

http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/manuals

that was a link in another thread.. I think its from 88crx props to him!

[Nuttz]

ok here is what it says in my eg HELMS :

Always turn the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from pulley side. Rotating it clockwise may result in improper adjustment of belt tension.

[ECU-MAN]

u cant damage the B16a by turning the engine the wrong way

If your turning the crankshaft pully it should be counter clockwise like BLKCRX said.

only turn the crank if your timming belt is on.

[SIKCVC]

ok kool, so if i could get the pullies off :P all i'd have to do is line the crank/cam gears up to their markers (ie the UP UP 2 notches at the center and the crank upto its marker. Then pull the belt on in a clockwise fassion? also I was told the nut MAY be a left handed tread :? oh well it doesn't really matter now I'm probs just gonna get lube mobile to do it for me.

[ECU-MAN]

the nut is not LH thread, your on the right track, doesn't matter how you get the belt on but its the final result that matters. being a twin cam I guarantee that when you take the belt off the cams will move. as long as there is no slack in the belt you should be right. if your not sure leave it alone. get someone who knows what there doing to do it.

[SIKCVC]

yeah I think I'll sit this one out and learn from an expert. Thanks for the help guy useful info :D not long now :D

[CTR Coupe]

If your not sure leave it alone. get someone who knows what there doing to do it. :thumbsup:
So keep lube mobile away from your car

[Javed]

If your not sure leave it alone. get someone who knows what there doing to do it. :thumbsup:
So keep lube mobile away from your car

LMAO so true! Oh look 400 posts w00t!!!!!

[SIKCVC]

Ok if I'm gonna keep Lube Mobile away how do i get an engine somewhere :P I really need a mobile mechanic to come do it, or someone who knows how to do it to come and help out, or even if someone has the tools to take the pullies off. I can manage the belt change I just cant get to the belt. I need the Hex spaner to take the pullies off. I'm not too keep on shoving a screw driver in my fly wheel while i undo it.

[SIKCVC]

Best service manual ever :D I'm gonna go buy the tools and swap the belt over tonight. My only question, which I'm pretty sure i know because its the only logical method. When i pull the cam belt on do I, run it from the crank up to the exhaust cam pully (obviously keeping them in the TDC possition) then around and back down the pump, tensioner, crank. I'm sure thats the only way it could be done but just wanting to make sure. This engine is something i've been waiting a while for so you guys would know my reasons for caution.

Thanks again guys :D


Nick

[ECU-MAN]

Best service manual ever :D I'm gonna go buy the tools and swap the belt over tonight. My only question, which I'm pretty sure i know because its the only logical method. When i pull the cam belt on do I, run it from the crank up to the exhaust cam pully (obviously keeping them in the TDC possition) then around and back down the pump, tensioner, crank. I'm sure thats the only way it could be done but just wanting to make sure. This engine is something i've been waiting a while for so you guys would know my reasons for caution.

Thanks again guys :D


Nick

your method sounds good, Iv got some tips for 1st timmers if your interested. before you take off the old belt, get some liquid paper or a texta and put a mark on the cam pulleys and on the head so you know there positions. do the same for the crank. ( I know there are already obvious markings on the pullys but this also helps get it 100% ).
put on your new belt, set the belt deflection, tighten the tentioner bolt, leave the covers off and put on the crank pully and bolt. tighten the bolt and remove your spark plugs, turn the engine over counter clockwise from the bolt with your breaker bar TWO compleate revolutions of the crank.Dont turn the engine over by cranking as if the valve timming is wrong, youll be upset. when you get back to TDC check the timming marks you made as well as the Honda ones. then check the belt tention ( there shouold be NO slack between the crank and the exhust pullys) . also there should be no slack between the two cam pullys, and water pump and tentioner area . if all ok put it all back together. dont forget to set the ignition timming.


Good Luck