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View Full Version : DIY: Taking off a wheel and putting one back on



bungsai
17-10-2006, 03:15 AM
This thread is inspired by this thread

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53988&page=3

It covers some of the basics that yeah, we should all know.

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

few points to note


A few points that I will contribute:

I prefer to never jack from the tow hook as I have seen some of these fail, twisting the hook and dropping the car
As others have said, even with a good jack use, jack stands. Jack the car up using your jack. Insert stands and then remove jack.
If the lugs are on to tight, I suggest taking the car to a local tyre shop (if you can) as you can potentially strip the thread. The truth as I was always told is that they never need to be put on as tight as most wheel shops put the lugs on - the only reason they do it that way is because over time the lugs will loosen.


Aim: Take off a wheel, and put a wheel back on.
Required: Jack, Socket Bar (standard), Car with rims.
Steps:

1 - Find the car - Okay, here is the car, this is the wheel we are going to take off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1815.jpg

2 - Without touching the car, grab the socket bar

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1813.jpg

3 - Without jacking up the car loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 a turn to 1 turn MAX each, just so that they are loosened. Remember Righty tighty, lefty loosey

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/IMGP1818.jpg
Other comments:

At this stage if you bolts are on VERY tight and you cannot get them off, you may need to use a breaker bar, which slides over the top of the socket bar and adds length the bar, hence increasing the leverage you have thus increasing the moment force which you can apply on the lug nut, thus making it easier to turn.

If this doesnt work, get a rubber mallet. Hold the socket bar and gently tap on the socket bar whilst holding it firm. Ensure that the socket bar fits you car, you may need to use a socket set instead, or your respective lock nut.

Loosen the bolts opposing each other. Ie, Always go North, South, East, West. Not North East, South West. Make sense?

So now you have loosened the lug nuts, but you still cant turn them? Thats cos the wheel is still putting pressure on them. here is the fun part.

4 - Jack up the car.
a - Take out the jack set.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1823.jpg

b - assemble the jack

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1825.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1826.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1827.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1831.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1833.jpg

c - Make sure that the bottom of the jack is on a stable and flat hard surface (concrete works well). The positioning of the jack is of utmost importance, it is important that the jack makes contact with the chassis of the car, not panels, as these will not be able to support the weight of the car. In this case, i used the tow hook as my jacking point.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1832.jpg

To raise the car, wind in an clockwise motion.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1834.jpg

Alternatively you can use a hydraulic jack which makes the work a lot easier. Once again, check the jack locations on the car and on the ground!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1821.jpg
5 - Now your car is jacked up, and the wheel is just off the ground.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1809.jpg

6 - Use the socket bar and remove the lug nuts. you should only have to loosen it a bit more, then you can do it by hand. Remember. North, South, East, West.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/IMGP1818.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1812.jpg

7 - Once you have remove all of the lugnuts, grab the wheel and pull it off towards you. Be careful of the brake dust, wheels get very dirty as u can see with mine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/bungsai/mini-IMGP1807.jpg

To put the wheel back on just do the reverse. Put on the lug nuts North South East West and hand tighten the lug nuts. Use the socket bar and give each lug nut half a twist. Lower the car. Tighten the lug nuts with the socket bar. finito.

aaronng
17-10-2006, 08:18 AM
Good DIY for those who don't know how to take a wheel off to change to a spare (you know who you are).

BTW, I find that it is better to use the jack point that is located just next to the wheel that you are changing.

An41
17-10-2006, 08:28 AM
lol top DIY man,

I had to learn the hard way of changing a tyre, I got a flat when I was just starting out on my L's ages ago. I was with mum and she had no idea so it was a good learning experience with some friendly advice from people near by.

JasonGilholme
17-10-2006, 08:49 AM
+rep for you buddy!

I can't wait to see the indicator fluid DIY!!! :P

Fr3aKi3
17-10-2006, 10:11 AM
Good guide for those who are learning the basics.

Although it might be a good idea to add the use of wheels stops or a brick, well anything to stop the car from rolling. Safety first! I'd hate to imaging what would happen if you're changing the rear wheel on a hill.... =/ So it might be a good idea to jack it up next to the wheel getting changed (as aaronng mentioned).

aaronng
17-10-2006, 10:35 AM
^^ good point. Always leave the car in 1st or reverse gear. Just remember to check before you start the car.

Always change wheels on level ground though. Drive with your flat to a level spot. Damaged rim/tyre is better than having your chassis fall to the road.

zco
17-10-2006, 10:39 AM
i';ve always watned to know if the tow hoook was the correct place to jack the car from the rear..

btw. paris hilton is hot..

aaronng
17-10-2006, 10:46 AM
i';ve always watned to know if the tow hoook was the correct place to jack the car from the rear..

btw. paris hilton is hot..
For jacking the whole the rear of the car up to play jackstands under, yes. Never go underneath as the car can lose balance and tip on its side.

JasonGilholme
17-10-2006, 11:07 AM
You should be able to jack it up from any of the major chassis rails under the car. Front, back, or either side.

Use jack stands kids! :thumbsup:

destrukshn
17-10-2006, 11:11 AM
i like using the subframe.

bennjamin
17-10-2006, 11:19 AM
Use jack stands kids! :thumbsup:

YES. Do NOT rely on ANY small hydraulic jack or (especially) any scissor jack.
Do NOT get under a car supported only by a above-mentioned jack ! DANGEROUS

destrukshn
17-10-2006, 11:20 AM
what about YOUR jack ben?
lol.
cause i have the same jack as you, but plannign to get a blue point long nose one.
lol.
=)

bennjamin
17-10-2006, 11:23 AM
what about YOUR jack ben?
lol.
cause i have the same jack as you, but plannign to get a blue point long nose one.
lol.
=)

The big silver one ? OR the little red one ?
Silver one = proper 1 tonned jack. Will hold up for a long time :)
DONT use these smaller super-cheap auto shite ( like shown above)

aaronng
17-10-2006, 11:33 AM
The red jack is tiny.. I have the orange one, and eventhough it says it is rated for 1650kg safe working load, it still slowly drops down. So even with those trolley jacks that cost under $100, don't trust them.

destrukshn
17-10-2006, 11:36 AM
big silver one.
lol, nah even with that jack, i don't really like going underneath the cars.
i always use stands.

bennjamin
17-10-2006, 11:39 AM
big silver one.
lol, nah even with that jack, i don't really like going underneath the cars.
i always use stands.

best bet = stands :)

Zdster
17-10-2006, 11:40 AM
A few points that I will contribute:

I prefer to never jack from the tow hook as I have seen some of these fail, twisting the hook and dropping the car
As others have said, even with a good jack use, jack stands. Jack the car up using your jack. Insert stands and then remove jack.
If the lugs are on to tight, I suggest taking the car to a local tyre shop (if you can) as you can potentially strip the thread. The truth as I was always told is that they never need to be put on as tight as most wheel shops put the lugs on - the only reason they do it that way is because over time the lugs will loosen.

aaronng
17-10-2006, 11:48 AM
Using a breaker bar and a proper 12-point socket, you won't damage the threads unless they were put on too tight until the nut and bolt were cold-welded together.

Zdster
17-10-2006, 11:53 AM
Using a breaker bar and a proper 12-point socket, you won't damage the threads unless they were put on too tight until the nut and bolt were cold-welded together.

Interesting to note. So basically unless the nut is tight up against the rim, no matter how much force you put on it (assuming it is somewhat controlled), you wont destroy the threads?

bennjamin
17-10-2006, 11:57 AM
Interesting to note. So basically unless the nut is tight up against the rim, no matter how much force you put on it (assuming it is somewhat controlled), you wont destroy the threads?

more leverage = more accuracy :)
A big breaker bar is a must.

aaronng
17-10-2006, 12:06 PM
Interesting to note. So basically unless the nut is tight up against the rim, no matter how much force you put on it (assuming it is somewhat controlled), you wont destroy the threads?
What damages the threads is overtightening. To overtighten you need more torque. What people usually do is jerk the breaker bar or stand on the bar to tighten or loosen the nut. That's sharp strong torque. Constant lower torque gives you more control and you are able to stop when the tightness is just right. The longer the bar, the more control you have because you don't have to apply as much force to get the same torque.

I see people tightening their nuts using a breaker bar and pulling upwards. That is sharp torque on the nut, plus a risk of injuring yourself by having a muscle pull at the ribcage (hairline fractures are not fun). Best is to put the bar and socket on the nut so that it is pointing slightly above horizontal and then just holding the handle with your right hand while keeping your left hand at the socket side. In this situation, the wheel is on your right and you are facing in the same orientation as the car's chassis. Squat down and let your body weight do the tightening.

For loosening nuts, just do the opposite with your left hand on the handle and your right hand at the socket side.

bennjamin
17-10-2006, 12:08 PM
wheel nuts should be aroudn 100NM to be tightened - less on "tapered" race nuts etc.

kyle
24-10-2006, 09:50 PM
What people usually do is jerk the breaker bar or stand on the bar to tighten or loosen the nut.

Reminds me of when I was doing my swap and was tring to break the driveshaft to wheel hub nut. LOL The breaker bar I used was 170cm long AND had me(80Kg)Standing(Jerking) on the end of it.

It's been along time since I was in school doing physics but by memory the force I must of been excerting on that puppy was huge.

egSi
24-10-2006, 10:47 PM
wtf :confused:

aaronng
24-10-2006, 11:59 PM
Reminds me of when I was doing my swap and was tring to break the driveshaft to wheel hub nut. LOL The breaker bar I used was 170cm long AND had me(80Kg)Standing(Jerking) on the end of it.

It's been along time since I was in school doing physics but by memory the force I must of been excerting on that puppy was huge.
LOL, that one's different. You need to jump on it to get it loose. But the wheel nut one where people pull upwards is just silly..... Downwards is always easier than upwards.