URGENT: What else can I do to the engine??

[spetz]

Ok guys tomorrow is the day where I call the builder to confirm putting the engine back together
It was delayed drastically in the hope to strengthen the bottom end but in the end it came too expensive and didn't go ahead with it.

So far internally the engine is stock, but fully balanced etc
Heads are shaved 60 thou to raise CR
Heads ported & polished, have not been match ported and the builder said they are very close and this would only net very small gains. Should I do this?
Intake manifold is also match ported (runners), with larger plenum opening and 5mm oversized & flowed TB. The manifold is 2 piece and trying to see if it can be shortened by a couple of cm without any issues

I was initially planning on shotpeening, close hone and cryo treat rods, HPC, Teflon and Nikasil coated pistons but could not find ARP rods so decided that it'll only be as strong as the weakest link so no point in wasting money

I was wondering if there is anything that can be done with say about $500 to get a bit more power out of it? Cams are stock and will remain stock (for now at least) valves stock too


Also, once on the subject, do rod bolts, main end bolts etc need changing? I realise head bolts need changing as they are designed to stretch, but what about the rest of them?

[spetz]

Sorry forgot to add the engine is a 6A12 MIVEC from an FTO. 2 litre V6 69mm stroke, 78.4mm bore

[BlitZ]

FTO's...
If it was a honda i would suggest 3 angle blow.. oh valve job

[spetz]

Already got 3 angle valve cut

Talked to Charlie from GPC tonight though and he said the car can only come in after christmas.
Trying to push it to go in within 3 weeks.
If it actually stays until after christmas then I'll leave the engine apart and hopefully raise enough money for forgies

But regardless, any other recommendations??
Heads will be pulled apart again to be cleaned as well so any work to heads is included

[spetz]

Forgot to mention again :)
Only FTO engine, it is in a lancer

[yourfather]

maybe work on reliability, get a baffled oil pan.

[spetz]

Is that so the oil pick up doesn't go dry through corners?

[panda[cRx]]

yeah that's the idea of it. there's no point having some super engine if it dies from you belting it around the track too hard.
another similar idea might be an oil cooler
(doesn't really answer your ORIGINAL question i know)

as for the original question i wouldnt bother doing too much more if cams etc will remain stock

[BlitZ]

extrude honing? not sure how beneficial it is. just another path to look at..
it will smooth the ports and flows but no more turbulance maybe.. it needs more research on my behalf

[Weq]

just get the high-comp forged pistons. Otherwise ur engine will be basically stock...

[shebangs]

Seems like a bit of a waste going to that effort on the head leaving the botom end stock.

[spetz]

Yeah unfortunately cash issues though :(
That, and by the time I did standalone ECU, cams, springs, cam gears, pistons, rods, bolts etc etc I am looking at like 8G or something which is way too much...
Considering as well anything else and that to be able to rev over 9000rpm I'd need gearbox work which = more money that I don't have

[qstoria]

ditch it all and get a k20

:thumbsup:

[bal]

arnt you getting a k20a Gbox with new engine??

[Muzz]

is there a rush to put it all back together? i thought this was your spare engine. can you survive without it for a month while you save up for some high CR pistons you already got $500.

dont blow you money on whatever MIGHT give you more power, do what u should do and get what u need to make all that porting work properly. i agree with what weq said "get the forged pistons, otherwise your engine is basically stock".
Sorry to beat on you man, its not my intention, but i told you a while ago to plan out and research and budget, exactly what u want as the final goal for your engine, and what parts you need/dont need to get it there. you pulled it apart, and now your putting it back together without any performance enhancing changes in the bottom end????

you obviously wernt following my advice when i advised you to stop and plan out exactly the costs involved. seems to me it was only a month or two ago that i advised you
"stop, and plan exactly what you want, and how much itll cost, id hate too see you pull youe engine apart, only to put it all back together unfinished cus u ran out off money". seems like thats exactly whats happend.....


I was initially planning on shotpeening, close hone and cryo treat rods, HPC, Teflon and Nikasil coated pistons but could not find ARP rods so decided that it'll only be as strong as the weakest link so no point in wasting money



Why would you even slightly consider these expensive options without first doing the things that are actually going to alter performance ie. cams&valves, high CR pistons.
Apart from the mention of coated pistons in there, doing all that, your engine would still be "close to stock". seems like your just thinking "hmmm i got this much money, what things can i do" instead of working out what is going to actually get you the best performance for your dollar, and what is actually needed. Its all about combination, dont just throw your money here and there, slow down and start planning!

Your talking about shortening the manifold, is the extra 0-0.5 horsepower worth it when u havnt done the things which will actually make a noticible differance, save your cash for some pistons, cams&gears, springs/valves retainers, if you havnt already put the engine back together.

if you have put it back together, i hope you realise that to get any decent gains in performance from now, youl need to pull the engine back down again and do those pistons.

[Slow96GSR]

^ Yup.