ampliefier specs

[LIV3]

can sum one tell me wat all this means?
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2 Channel Power Amplifier 1200 Watts Max. Output Power 4 OHM impedance Thermal Overload Protection High efficiency MOSFET power supply - adds the advantage of extremely fast overload recovery time, low output impedance for superior damping, and stability during voltage fluctuations for reliable performance in the harsh automative environment. Led - power Indication

Frequency Response (+/-2dB): 20-30000 HZ Signal to noise ratio: 70dB Input Sensitivity: 0.2V - 3V Power Consumption: 5A Approx Dimensions: 24 x 16 x 5 cm Approx Box Dimensions: 25 x 19 x 6 cm Approx Weight: 1.2 Kg
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or how well this would run a pioneer sub?
thanks =)

[m3ntAL_l2]

wots the specs of ur sub?? u wann the amp to hav a bigger power than teh sub not underpower it.

[LIV3]

its a 1000 watt max. and 400 watt nominal(RMS) umm its "Pioneer - TS-W306C" 12 inch sub

[Rasputin]

can sum one tell me wat all this means?
__________________________________________________ ______________
2 Channel Power Amplifier 1200 Watts Max. Output Power 4 OHM impedance Thermal Overload Protection High efficiency MOSFET power supply - adds the advantage of extremely fast overload recovery time, low output impedance for superior damping, and stability during voltage fluctuations for reliable performance in the harsh automative environment. Led - power Indication

Frequency Response (+/-2dB): 20-30000 HZ Signal to noise ratio: 70dB Input Sensitivity: 0.2V - 3V Power Consumption: 5A Approx Dimensions: 24 x 16 x 5 cm Approx Box Dimensions: 25 x 19 x 6 cm Approx Weight: 1.2 Kg
__________________________________________________ _______________

or how well this would run a pioneer sub?
thanks =)


(Check out this article if you want to hear it from the man. FHRX)
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3941

Is it a boss amp or something similar?

2 - Channel, You can run two speakers off it. Or you can bridge them for one speaker (usually a sub)

Basically 'Max Power' tells you nothing, and is more of a marketing thing than anything useful. A better gauge of power is the RMS power rating.

The 4-ohm impedance tells you that it is compatible with your 4-ohm sub. It is stable for running anything 4-ohms and up, but not 2 or 1 ohm subs/speakers.

MOSFET - nothing different from any other amp

LED power indication - has an led to tell you when power is on

Frequency response: Tells you the frequencies it supports. Human hearing is 20-20000Hz

Signal to noise ratio: Higher is better. 70 is quite poor. But you may not notice with your setup, who knows. Every 3dB higher means that noise (such as whining from electronics) will be half as loud. every 3dB lower Signal to Noise Ratio (or SNR) means that the noise will be twice as loud in relation to your music.

Input sensitivity is how high the RCA voltage from your head unit can/should be. This range is fine for most basic head units. (Your Head unit's RCA voltage also relate to the Gain settings on your amp.

Power consumption is 5A, 5 amps. This means that at 12V5A it's using 60W of power.

Dimensions and weight I'm sure you can work out for yourself ;)

Good luck, have fun, and remember: You won't save money by going cheap.
Buying quality (not that I mean insane audiophile gear, just decent equipment) to begin with will save you more money in the end. Otherwise you'll buy BOSS etc and either be dissapointed or lose money when you resell it straight away again.

There are many entry-level products which are still good quality, check jaycar's line for instance. But please stay away from cheap ebay items, BOSS etc and anything that only has PMPO or MAX power ratings, instead of RMS.

If you haven't already bought this amp, I wouldn't, unless you got it at some awesome deal and don't have the funds for anything else at all.
But I have that same pioneer sub, and I've been very happy with it so far.

[LIV3]

atm i just need a sub my system sound really shit without it..
im only running 4 x 6" sony 170 wats (40 watts rms) and HAD a sub before my amp died on tuesday.

im looking between a kenwood and a pioneer now

Pioneer Amp

Bridgeable amp for either stereo or mono usage. For front or rear speakers as required.
120 Watts x 2 channels of Maximum output (EIAJ specification).
60 Watts x 2 of power (RMS) at CEA-2006 specification (US system).
Low Pass Filter (Subwoofer Crossover) for bass and High Pass Filter for full-range speakers means that frequencies amplified are tailored to speaker capabilities.
Speaker Level Input for connection to factory-fitted decks means greater application flexibility.

and

Kenwood Amp

Features Highlights
Aluminium Die-casting Heat Sink
Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply
Built-in Low-pass Filter
Speaker Level Input
General Features
Aluminium Die-casting Heat Sink
Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply
Built-in Low-pass Filter 80Hz (12dB/oct)
Variable Input Sensitivity (0.2-5V)
Speaker Level Input from OEM Car Radio for Easy Up-grade
Size: W 250mm x H 52mm x D 160mm
Power Features
Maximum Output Power
250W
Rated Output Power (14.4V )
40W x 2 at 20-20kHz 0.08%THD (4Ħ)
120W x 1 at Bridged 1kHz 0.8%THD (4Ħ)
60W x 2 at 1kHZ 0.8%THD (2Ħ)

i dont know much in audio systems.. i just need sumfin enough to run my current sub.. which one to go for?

EDIT: wat is 'low pass filter' ??

[Fr3aKi3]

Low pass filter's are used filter out high frequencies hence the term "low pass", you'd usually use a low pass filter when amping a sub as you would only want the sub to play the lower frequencies and not vocals.

The opposite can be applied to speakers, where they would usually be high passed so that the speakers won't play any frequencies that a sub would.

Firstly what is your budget for an amp? If it's just going to power a sub then have you contemplated a monoblock? I ran my sub by bridging 2 channels of my amp (roughly 500wrms) and then i powered the sub from a monoblock (450wrms) and it sounded much better from the monoblock.

[Rasputin]

As I said before, get down to Jaycar as well, over and over again rated as best bang for your buck.


But regardless of what anyone says or what the numbers say, the best way with anything audio is to get into a brick and mortar, and see how it sounds.

See if they'll even be able to plug your sub into the amp/s so you can get the best idea possible.

Numbers can only tell you so much, and sometimes it's the wrong thing altogether. :thumbsup:

[LIV3]

thanks for the help guys =D appreciate it.. lols well ill tell you watt i end up wiff dens =)

[tune2look]

Looking at the weight, its not the best.
1.2 kg is very very light.
In audio equipments, its usually better when its heavier!

[SPL77Civic]

What? Heavier = Better? Never heard that one before, will have to use that in my next sales pitch :p

"This amp is great cos its so heavy".....not how it works....

This is what I'd do.........

Look at something like the Pioneer GM 5200T, 2 channel amp bridges to make 360rms @ 4 ohm and would be a good match for that woofer (a little underpowered, but will run it fine)

Then should you decide to get an extra sub and bigger monoblock amp you can simply use this amp on your front speakers and give them a healthy 125rms per side.

Can get it for $299 and in my opinion is a good starter amp.

[tune2look]

More power means more heat, therefore even heatsink needs to be bigger.
1.2kg is too light and I dout it will give good result.

[Vinnie]

More power means more heat, therefore even heatsink needs to be bigger.
1.2kg is too light and I dout it will give good result.

its not fair to make that comment based purely on the weight alone if u have no idea how efficient the design and cooling system on that particular amp is...

[tune2look]

by looking at the spec, I am no where near expert, but I dont think this one is that case.

[LIV3]

lols you guys are confusing.

[tune2look]

ok... it really is........
you can give us the price and then it might be easier to said worth buying or not.
until then... what I said is rubish:p :p