View Full Version : Shuddering SW when braking hard
my steering wheel studders/vibrates when i brake hard or heavy.
i changed my SW to a really small one, but i doubt thats the problem. what could be making it shudder so much?
Rice_4_life
04-11-2006, 11:41 PM
brake shudder? machine the discs usually the problem
yeah what he said^ .. however my car shuddered at high speed and under braking and it turned out a shock was blown. ( my car was made in 05 and blew a shock)
if its really bad, change your pads when you machine your rotors at the same time
otherwise, the warped old pads will just rewarp the thinner machined rotor again
Rice_4_life
05-11-2006, 01:10 AM
^^ no need to really, if ur pads hav plently of meat left do a dodgy and rub it against sum rough surface for a few seconds to even it (in rough i mean a concrete surface or so), pads rnt the cheapest thing, my 2cents up 2 u and ur budget.
DOHCVTEC
05-11-2006, 03:18 AM
it happens to me all the time... sigh
this usually happens when theres uneven deposit on the disc rotors, many reasons this could occur,
few ways u can get rid of it, machining the rotors works about the best, and like stated b4, changing the pads afterwards = best results
another way, change to some abrasive brake pads use them hard for a while, then change back to original pads
cheapest and easiest way but less effective
what u "could" do if its realli realli bad, and it doesnt have heat spots, but just uneven deposits, take it to a safe place,
then do 8-10 hard stops without slowing the car to speeds less then 20 with the brakes
e.g. go to high speeds of say around 100-110 then brake the car till its 20-40 kms do this 8-10 times, then let the brakes cool (10-15mins)
NB: this method doesn't always work for every single situation, proper diagnosing of the problem is important
czy_sol87
05-11-2006, 09:24 AM
what u "could" do if its realli realli bad, and it doesnt have heat spots, but just uneven deposits, take it to a safe place,
then do 8-10 hard stops without slowing the car to speeds less then 20 with the brakes
e.g. go to high speeds of say around 100-110 then brake the car till its 20-40 kms do this 8-10 times, then let the brakes cool (10-15mins)
NB: this method doesn't always work for every single situation, proper diagnosing of the problem is important
doin this is what warped the disc in the first place, just do as others have already said, get the rotors machined
CUL8R
05-11-2006, 12:45 PM
yep just like everyones said ur disks are probly warped.
to not warp disks always let the brakes cool before applying handbrake, dont be driving like a crazy person then pull into ur driveway and apply the handbrake so the car wont roll into ur neighbours house.do a lap to cool the brakes a bit first, this will prevent ur pads kinda sticking to the rotors then leaving part of the pads on the rotor.
don ever be washing wheels after a relativly hard braking session, if uve pushed em hard and then u get water anywhere on them the rate of cooling the metal rotors will make em more brittle in that spot and may warp the metal.
hopefully the warping aint too bad and a machining will do the trick
warped disc's aye.. i don't see why they would warp.. never rip it and then stop it.. bad for engine temps too..
anyway, well machining isnt a problem when it cost $30-40 pp. thanks guys.
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