What petrol you use for your Euro?

[tron07]

RON95 or RON98??

Do you get better milleage from RON98? Better response and power??

[aaronng]

No difference in power. 0.7L/100km better fuel consumption when using Vortex98 over Vpower.

95 octane feels more powerful but rougher.

BP Ultimate, Mobil 8000 and Vortex98 for smoothness.

[tron07]

I usually use Caltex too...

In my previous civic, tried using Unleaded 92 and vortex 98, but didnt really find any difference.... test using 3 full tanks, consumption and power seems the same, so went back to cheap fuel....

So which one you recomend? 95 or 98?

[EuroDude]

Check the euro Fuel Consumption thread, plenty of good info in there:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15437&highlight=fuel

I use 98RON most of the time, specifically BP Ultimate or Caltex 98RON

[tron07]

There is another fuel thread also, but its kind of old already, and I suppose many things had change already, new fuel and addictives, etc....

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8341&page=10&highlight=optimax+euro

[aaronng]

So which one you recomend? 95 or 98?

No difference between the two, although I found 98 to be smoother. But the extra mileage I get for 98 makes it worth the extra cost.

[tron07]

OK.. I will try filling up with RON98 tomorrow.....

[aaronng]

Use Caltex Vortex98. That was the one that I found gave the best fuel consumption.

[mj3610]

No difference in power. 0.7L/100km better fuel consumption when using Vortex98 over Vpower.

95 octane feels more powerful but rougher.

BP Ultimate, Mobil 8000 and Vortex98 for smoothness.

its all in ur head...
but with australias disgusting fuel i'd go one level up from what the manufacturer recommends, if they say 95 then use 98, all the leading petrol companies have basically same fuel, bp, shell, caltex etc, doesnt really matter which one u get, just dont fill up at those dirty independant petrol stations...

[_CiVIC_]

I've filled up twice so far on my new euro.. and I find BP Ultimate doing really good! 8.5L/100kms consumption thats city and highway driving :) very happy :D

according to the "i" display on my tacho, i should get around 720kms out of this full tank :D alot better than the Type S!! LOL!

[EuroDude]

Wait until the engine runs in properly, you'll get even better consumption ftw

the good thing about the K24A is that it has decent torque down low (thanks to VTC I imagine), so u can use a higher gear and dont need to keep the revs high.

[_CiVIC_]

Wait until the engine runs in properly, you'll get even better consumption ftw

the good thing about the K24A is that it has decent torque down low (thanks to VTC I imagine), so u can use a higher gear and dont need to keep the revs high.


so it will get better? :) thats awesome!

[aaronng]

its all in ur head...
but with australias disgusting fuel i'd go one level up from what the manufacturer recommends, if they say 95 then use 98, all the leading petrol companies have basically same fuel, bp, shell, caltex etc, doesnt really matter which one u get, just dont fill up at those dirty independant petrol stations...

The 91 and 95's are the same or similar. The 98's are different.

[mj3610]

The 91 and 95's are the same or similar. The 98's are different.

and? whats this got to do with what i said?

[EuroDude]

some handy info~ http://www.fuelwatch.wa.gov.au/info/dsp_fuel_types.cfm
Apparently WA has the cleanest fuel

98 RON

98 RON is a high-octane unleaded fuel that maximizes engine power and performance, as well as producing less pollution.

BP is currently the only reseller of 98 RON petrol in WA and markets the product under the BP Ultimate brand name.

98 RON is promoted as providing excellent fuel economy, has a sulphur content which is 10 times lower than the national standard for unleaded fuels, and has low levels of benzene, sulphur and lower aromatics.

98 RON is used by some imported and high performance vehicles

---------------

Premium Unleaded Petrol (PULP)

PULP is a special blend of petrol designed to bring high octane, and hence high engine power, as well as knock- free performance to unleaded cars with a high-octane requirement.

A knocking noise can occur in an engine when there is a mismatch between the fuel characteristics and the engine's design, particularly its compression ratio, resulting in pre-ignition (also known as 'pinging').

Selecting fuel with the correct RON for your engine will prevent the knocking fuel effect caused when the fuel combusts in the compression chamber too early.

Many imported cars, and particularly those with turbochargers, are manufactured to run on premium unleaded petrol.

PULP has a Research Octane Number (RON) of 95.

RON is a measure of a fuel's compression performance and the RON rating translates into the amount of engine power. RON requirements vary according to engine type.

[aaronng]

and? whats this got to do with what i said?
Just following up. :)

[euro77]

I've gone down from 98 to 95, and to tell you the truth, my butt dyno can't feel any difference, and my fuel consumption actually improves.

[tony1234]

I've gone down from 98 to 95, and to tell you the truth, my butt dyno can't feel any difference, and my fuel consumption actually improves.
Can't notice diff between 95 and 98 makes sense but higher consumption on 98!!!:confused:

[TypeG]

I use 100 sometimes

[TypeG]

I've gone down from 98 to 95, and to tell you the truth, my butt dyno can't feel any difference, and my fuel consumption actually improves.

lol
you dyno on the same day same temp same weight?

[MiSloVic]

I've gone down from 98 to 95, and to tell you the truth, my butt dyno can't feel any difference, and my fuel consumption actually improves.

anyone notice that with 95, the engine is rougher? not as smooth as with 98?

[mj3610]

I've gone down from 98 to 95, and to tell you the truth, my butt dyno can't feel any difference, and my fuel consumption actually improves.

i've also said this before and i will say it now, i dont know why the fark they say 98 has gives u better fuel economy than 95 or 91, i refuse to believe it since i've seen on my civic when i ALWAYS got atleast 50kms more out of 91 than 95 or 98.
i also get the same thing on my accord which is a SOHC Vtec, driving conditions are always constant, and i get more kms with 91 than 95 or 98, so this is 2 cars i seen that has totally disapproved the idea that higher octane fuel works out cheaper in the end cause for me it means paying more for each litre and getting less kms...

[tanalasta]

I get 9.1L/100km consistently with BP ultimate and I have been running the car on BP ultimate from Day 1 (short of the rubbish from the dealer when it was delivered). That's better than most have achieved using 95 RON in an automatic. I do a mix of highway/peak hour driving too.

10000km in 6 months so my engine is relatively run in.

[curik]

98 RON with some fur additive for lean combustion

[aaronng]

anyone notice that with 95, the engine is rougher? not as smooth as with 98?

I noticed the same thing, except for Shell Optimax. LOL

[aaronng]

i've also said this before and i will say it now, i dont know why the fark they say 98 has gives u better fuel economy than 95 or 91, i refuse to believe it since i've seen on my civic when i ALWAYS got atleast 50kms more out of 91 than 95 or 98.
i also get the same thing on my accord which is a SOHC Vtec, driving conditions are always constant, and i get more kms with 91 than 95 or 98, so this is 2 cars i seen that has totally disapproved the idea that higher octane fuel works out cheaper in the end cause for me it means paying more for each litre and getting less kms...

It could be that Australia's 95 octane is just passing 95 octane. The Euro needs 95 under normal driving conditions. If you drive it under load like going uphill, then the octane requirement increases. When using 95, if the preignition occurs, the engine runs richer, retards cam timing and ignition timing to compensate. When that happens, you get higher fuel consumption. I think this is why you see 98 giving better fuel economy on the Euro but not on other cars that require 91 octane.

[prae]

BP Ultimate, 98 RON here

~5000km 06 Euro, ~9.6L/100km all city driving

[tony1234]

I noticed the same thing, except for Shell Optimax. LOL
Optimax:thumbdwn: :thumbdwn: :thumbdwn:

[tony1234]

I use 100 sometimes
Do u notice any diff with 100 as opposed to 98?

[euro77]

lol
you dyno on the same day same temp same weight?

lol
well I've driven long enough with 98 to know the difference straight away when switching to 95, which I don't feel.


anyone notice that with 95, the engine is rougher? not as smooth as with 98?

No, I don't think it's rougher, well at least I couldn't notice it.

[BusterSonic12]

been with optimax since new car, now v power so still shell's 98. so i have no idea what other fuel be like :D shell saves 4c + it's close to where i live.

[Cranial]

I've been using 98 (from different companies) from day 1 of my car. Then last week, my bro borrowed it and filled her up with Shell 95. I personally could not feel any smoothness or performance difference between 95 and 98 (fuel consumption has not been measured though).

BP Ultimate feels smoothest to me, but not a big difference between the others, and as always, it depends which is CHEAPEST! hehe

[BiLL|z0r]

I use BP 95RON. Sometimes 98RON but can't notice any difference in power or fuel consumption. 98RON may seem a little smoother sometimes but that could be in my head. Not worth the extra money IMO.

[mj3610]

I use BP 95RON. Sometimes 98RON but can't notice any difference in power or fuel consumption. 98RON may seem a little smoother sometimes but that could be in my head. Not worth the extra money IMO.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
this "smoother engine" business in all in ur heads...

[tron07]

I tried vpower for 4 full tanks then switch back to normal 98 and straight away feel the power lost and the car felt sluggish... but then could not afford vpower all the time and the car is not a honda then.

Anyway put in full tank of vortex98 today... pump until it stop, then pump somemore until it stop again, and still no $50 yet... I thought its full already and didnt want the fuel to leak out... The fuel warning light already blinking when I pump petrol so I thought wow, so little fuel only, and then paid for it.

When I start, its only 3/4 tank full..... the mouth of the tank must be very narrow.

[aaronng]

^^ It's the pump's fault. Go to another station or use another pump.

[tony1234]

I run vortex 98.I don't think there's much diff between it and others(mobil8000,ultimate).Not a big fan of optimax(vpower).Seems to leave a lot of black deposits on exhaust????

[mj3610]

Not a big fan of optimax(vpower).Seems to leave a lot of black deposits on exhaust????

LOLLL
this thread is full of these noob comments, u should see how stupid u all sound.

[tony1234]

LOLLL
this thread is full of these noob comments, u should see how stupid u all sound.
This is something I noticed and am stating.What is your problem with that.

[mj3610]

This is something I noticed and am stating.What is your problem with that.

if u dont want carbon buildup then put pure ethanol in ur car ;)
its not just ur comment, im guessing u dont know better so its not ur fault. but its all these shit-talking dodos saying rediculous things when they should know better...

[BiLL|z0r]

Oh please enlighten us with your wisedom. He's simply stating something he's noticed due to HIS OPINION.

[aaronng]

if u dont want carbon buildup then put pure ethanol in ur car ;)
its not just ur comment, im guessing u dont know better so its not ur fault. but its all these shit-talking dodos saying rediculous things when they should know better...
LOL, different fuels burn differently. Those that don't burn completely because they contain a large portion of unburnables tend to produce more carbon in the exhaust gas. It can cause quicker carbon buildup.

[EuroDude]

rofl. Forums are full of people with varying knowledge, lets not bash n00bs :p


I imagine dirty/cheap oil also cause exhaust carbon buildup yeh?

[TypeG]

use 98 or 100, it helps remove carbon deposit.

[TypeG]

Do u notice any diff with 100 as opposed to 98?

yes
i feel the different seriously. full tank for $64
why not =)
it goes a lot smoother, not sure about the fuel consumption as I never care about it but just REV it
lol:p

[aaronng]

yes
i feel the different seriously. full tank for $64
why not =)
it goes a lot smoother, not sure about the fuel consumption as I never care about it but just REV it
lol:p

Are you comparing it to Vpower 98 or to other brands like Ultimate and Vortex98?

[TypeG]

i only go Shell so I am comparing 95, Vpower and Vpower racing

[aaronng]

i only go Shell so I am comparing 95, Vpower and Vpower racing

Instead of spending extra on Vpower racing, why not try out others like Ultimate, Mobil 8000 and Vortex98, which are cheaper? You using a company fleet card with Shell?

[TypeG]

nope
i tried those before. I felt Shell's petrol is the best
my 0.02 cents
=)

[sendok]

agree wif u bro..

optimax enough for me :)

[TypeG]

agree wif u bro..

optimax enough for me :)

no more optimax
it is called vpower now
lol

[tron07]

I notice on the petrol tank lid, there is mention that can use the Etanol E10 or something.... anyone got any idea whats that?

[prae]

It means the car can use petrols with 10% ethanol content mixed in.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol_fuel

[tony1234]

It means the car can use petrols with 10% ethanol content mixed in.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol_fuel

That's right.When i picked up my car new they explained that to me.

[TypeG]

V-Power Racing got 5% ethanol already in it

[mj3610]

"united" petrol stations have 10% ethanol mix, which u can use for ur car if its indicated. its cleaner fuel for ur car and "u'll have less carbon buildup" in ur exhaust...

[TypeG]

"united" petrol stations have 10% ethanol mix, which u can use for ur car if its indicated. its cleaner fuel for ur car and "u'll have less carbon buildup" in ur exhaust...


is it?
what is the name of that petrol
but properly wont try it since i always got 8c off from Shell =)

[hazchem]

i've been using Optimax and now V-power since I got the car new. Haven't experienced any problems, but I also haven't been able to try other brands as I'm stuck buying from Shell with my fleetcard.

[sendok]

no more optimax
it is called vpower now
lol

so shell optimax (Vpower) now contains V (energy drink)? lol..

[80057]

ethanol is cleaner then normal fuel but you may lose power around 3-4% as
it isnt as combustible as petroleum, honda tested and approved its use in euro's (most new honda's in fact). and it should be the same price as ULP (cheaper then PULP) so it could be a option,

I aint a fan of regular shell petrol, i know alot of people with bad experiences with it especially in motorbikes (yes i know cars and bikes are different). I'm sure v-power or optimax is ok, after all ferrari was involved in development.

[tron07]

So which fuel got the etanol mixed in? I dont trust those small private stations....

[aaronng]

So which fuel got the etanol mixed in? I dont trust those small private stations....

Shell VPower Racing has 5%
United has 10%

[80057]

i dont trust the small independents either.

i think most brands now have ethanol in then, it was originally used as it has water evaporating qualities whilst also combustible. then someone worked out its cleaner then petrol lol. at one stage caltex petrol (pulp) had no ethanol in it but i think that has changed, as im a caltex user i see the %'s displayed at the pump im not sure how good other servos are at displaying that kind of info

[Adagio]

I have just done another average fuel consumption over 10 fills using BP Ultimate. My average is now 7.9L/100km, 2005 manual with 27,000kms. Remember I live in a country area and get involved in city traffic twice a month if I am unlucky. Cruising at GPS 116kmh or a speedo indicated 120KMH on a trip to Cowra I got 7.51L/100kms I compared this with a 2 litre Peugeot diesel who got 6L/100kms on a similar drive to Cowra, I'm happy.

[tanalasta]

You would do even better if you dropped your average cruising speed by 10-20km/h ;)

[Adagio]

Correct, and I should but this car is too good to mooch around. It seems to come alive on long fast sweeping bends when 4,000rpm is the norm. Then when I stop to refuel I can see how much I have enjoyed myself:eek:

[J-TODA]

LOL my averge speed atm is 31km/h....fuel consumption 14.1L / 100kms DAMN!!! and its my first week of owning the car...running on 98ron or otherwise known as V-power avaliable at shell service stations..jst filled up 2day full tank ..goann test to see how much i can get out of this tank ( shifting between 2k to 3k revs) hopefully it will maximise fuel usuage :D

[Adagio]

Suggest you change above 2,000RPM otherwise it is a bit of a strain on the engine/transmission. 3,000 rpm seems right for me when in traffic that is moving well. Let's hear about your fuel consumption when you get on a country run. Are you having any difficulties with that FBW accelerator pedal at low revs? I think it is the one negative of the whole car.

[tony1234]

Suggest you change above 2,000RPM otherwise it is a bit of a strain on the engine/transmission. 3,000 rpm seems right for me when in traffic that is moving well. Let's hear about your fuel consumption when you get on a country run. Are you having any difficulties with that FBW accelerator pedal at low revs? I think it is the one negative of the whole car.
Fuel economy on the freeway in a Euro is EXCELLENT.I've had it(trip comp.)showing as low as 7.4l/100kms.

[TypeG]

LOL my averge speed atm is 31km/h....fuel consumption 14.1L / 100kms DAMN!!! and its my first week of owning the car...running on 98ron or otherwise known as V-power avaliable at shell service stations..jst filled up 2day full tank ..goann test to see how much i can get out of this tank ( shifting between 2k to 3k revs) hopefully it will maximise fuel usuage :D

lol man
for a stock car.... and rev range from 2l-3k..... seems like u got some bad driving habbits. I get 12.L highest and average 10.5L and my rev range is 3-5k or more sometimes =)

[EuroDude]

Fuel economy on the freeway in a Euro is EXCELLENT.I've had it(trip comp.)showing as low as 7.4l/100kms.


Ive been as low as 4.9L/100km :thumbsup:

Driving at 90km/h in 6th gear (6MT) on a full tank of fuel. :p

[Cranial]

Just a nOOb question:

Is it more fuel efficient say when cruising on the highway when going down a slope or similar at say, 90-110kmh to drop the car into neutral to coast down (but fuel will still need to be used to keep the car at idle rpms), or to keep it in 6th gear and let go of the accelerator (for fuel shut-off)? I plan to drive up north coast and if Eurodude can share his secret, that would be excellent!

[EuroDude]

When going downhill, leave it in gear (as higher gear as possible so the car rolls faster).

The ECU shuts off the fuel injectors when you are motor-braking. If you leave it in Neutral, you will use more fuel since the engine has to keep the revs at 700rpm (although the fuel usage at 700rpm is next to nothing anyway so there wont be much difference really).

[Adagio]

Don't do it.Whenever you are in neutral you are not in full control. Just keep it in a high gear if you are in undulating country and don't let the revs drop below 2,000rpm. Going down a steepish hill I am more concerned about control and use the gears to hold the car at a speed I want with occasional touch on the brakes to keep it in check. That 7.4L/100 km is great BUT was it just on the car's computer? If so it is only giving you a momentary glimpse of the fuel consumption. When you fill up is when you know the whole truth.

[aaronng]

4.9L/100km is probably the instantaneous fuel consumption.

The average on the freeway will probably be 7L/100km

[EuroDude]

4.9L/100km is probably the instantaneous fuel consumption.


That was the average consumption after about 10km's of uninterrupted highway driving, straight after a refuel (the fresh fuel pressure helps alot).

Yeh average would be around 7.0L on half a tank ~

[zco]

unleaded 92. thats why my fuel cap says. feels so madd when your 45Ltank is under 50bux and it takes me 600+ kms

[aaronng]

Zic, you have an Euro now? :D

[EuroDude]

The Euro has a 65L tank, he must be refering to his 45L EK

[ROBERT]

I know I am a bit anal about this but it interests me and I have time to do it. I fill my Euro (automatic) untill the pumps clicks off then top up to the next full litre (95 RON). I use mostly Shell or Caltex (Wollies and Coles discount dockets). I live in the country (Mid North Coast) but do drive to the Blue Mountains near Sydney frequently (about 350 km) I drive on or just under the speed limit and avoid hard acceleration. The attatched spread sheet is self explanitory. My average is 7.7 litre/100 km. My previous car a Holden Acclaim auto (6 cyl) with very similar driving averaged 8.9 l/100km.
Ok the spread sheet didn't attatch. i'll try again.

[ROBERT]

Trying to attatch spread sheet, I see now it will not accept an xls prefix. Anyone any ideas?

[EuroDude]

(Wollies and Coles discount dockets).

Its a scam I tells ya :p
http://the-riotact.com/?p=3314

[J-TODA]

lol man
for a stock car.... and rev range from 2l-3k..... seems like u got some bad driving habbits. I get 12.L highest and average 10.5L and my rev range is 3-5k or more sometimes =)

nah man...i havent been in that rev range...i meant that wif this new tank im going to keep between that rev range as an experiment to test my fuel consumption

[sendok]

HONDA said that euro should be the one with a great safe fuel consumption are they? :) hopefully it's true but with also a great output power..

[aaronng]

Its a scam I tells ya :p
http://the-riotact.com/?p=3314

It's still 4 cents off if you have a docket anyway. Plus, the weekly shopping for 2 usually exceeds $30 anyway.

[EuroDude]

HONDA said that euro should be the one with a great safe fuel consumption are they? :) hopefully it's true but with also a great output power..


Yep near V6 power with the economy of a 4cyl pulling a weight of 1400kg using smart gearing.
The i-VTEC K Series is a masterpiece :p

[aaronng]

It's just an engine.

[EuroDude]

Would you prefer a 4cyl KIA engine in your Euro? :p

[aaronng]

It's an engine, but it's not a masterpiece.
If you want to see a masterpiece, look at next year's VQ35HR. That is a masterpiece.

[EuroDude]

Yes well lets see how the VQ35HR fairs against the new Legend V6 engine ;)

[BiLL|z0r]

Yes well lets see how the VQ35HR fairs against the new Legend V6 engine ;)

The new engine is SOHC, prolly not hard to get better as an Excel has newer technology, bit disappointing from Mr Honda.

[sendok]

Whoa... Legends V6 engine will be a turn on.. :)

[aaronng]

Yes well lets see how the VQ35HR fairs against the new Legend V6 engine ;)

Well, it makes 234kW without using variable lift like the Legend's engine does.

Here are the upgrades, I highlighted the ones in red as interesting:



5th Generation of the VQ.
Redline increase to 7500rpm
Higher compression ratio: 10.6:1 (previously 10.3:1)
Redesigned block for increased rigidity: ladder frame reinforcment
Increased height of cylinder blocks
New cylinder heads
Improved coolant system flow
Worldwide first hydrogen free DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating for lowered friction on valve lifters
Stronger valve springs
Larger valve diameters
Hydraulic CVTC on intake side
Electromagnetic CVTC on exhaust side
Adoption of isometric exhaust manifold
Equal length exhaust manifold
Reinforced Chain cover
Sound insulating engine cover
New oil pump rotor
Reinforced oil pan
Enlarged crank journal diameter
Enlarged diameter crank pin
Twin knock sensors
Symmetric intake system
Straight inlet port
Iridium spark plugs
Spark plug modified into M12
Asymmetric piston skirt
Longer Conrod
Processing PVD Piston Ring

What they forgot to mention is that the VQ35HR has 2 intakes, one for each bank of 3 cylinders (so there won't be filling problems like when having all 6 cylinders fighting for air from 1 intake plenum) as well as a separate exhaust header for each bank!

[tony1234]

It's still 4 cents off if you have a docket anyway. Plus, the weekly shopping for 2 usually exceeds $30 anyway.
Yep.That's the way i look at it.

[^__^ SM ^__^]

Just another noob question:

How do you guys get good economy on an auto euro. I get 14L around the city. mostly driving at 6.30am and home at 5.30pm.

Morning is free run with few lights and cars along victoria parade. Afternoon is slow but moving constantly; if you know Johnston St in Carlton, Collingwood etc. you know what i mean.

Can I please get some good driving tips? I'm still on my Ps :o Thanks heaps.

[J-TODA]

update on petrol usuage....result not good...

been driving normally shifting between 2k-4k revs...damn usage per 100km went from 14.0 - 14.4!!!!! wtf...

ill keep uz guys updated...

[aaronng]

It's not about the RPM which you shift at, but the throttle you use. Use less than 1/4 throttle and your fuel consumption will be much improved.

[euro77]

how do you exactly measure the throttle opening (if you don't have VAFC for example)?

[EuroDude]

My Euro had 14.xL/100km economy as well when new, 7 months later its much lower now (9.1L-10.4L average).

Give it a few months so the engine and gearbox can loosen up and wear-in properly.


The trick is to use the highest gear possible, but not too high otherwise u'll stress the engine. (well for the 6MT at least)

[aaronng]

how do you exactly measure the throttle opening (if you don't have VAFC for example)?

Foot to the floor = fulll
Foot halfway up = 1/2
Foot 3/4 up = 1/4

Hehehhe. Everything's an estimate. Auto drivers tend to use more than 1/2 throttle when accelerating from the lights. Manual drivers use up to 1/4 (unless they want a nice chirp)

[aaronng]

I just found something on Honda NZ's site. They specify a minimum of 96 RON for their Euro. The engine specs are the same with the AUDM model, 140kW and 223Nm. Does this mean that when we use 95 RON, we are using partial capacity of the knock-detection system?

*sticks to 98 RON*

[blk05gli]

i regularly use vortex gold (95) or shell unleaded 95 (not V-power) and get good economy at "1/4 throttle" ;D - about 580-600 km/tank.

[^__^ SM ^__^]

I tried a while ago to use low throttle at the expense of embarassment. Economy still not good - 12L. Everyone looks at me as they pass me .. LOL!!

[aaronng]

I tried a while ago to use low throttle at the expense of embarassment. Economy still not good - 12L. Everyone looks at me as they pass me .. LOL!!

Is yours an auto or manual? It's about 12L/100km for the auto.

[^__^ SM ^__^]

Is yours an auto or manual? It's about 12L/100km for the auto.

Auto. Now has 3800km on clock.

[aaronng]

That sounds about right. If you drive in that style for the whole tank you should get 11L/100km.

[ok2]

Changed from using Shell Optimax to Mobil 8000 and my figures have changed from 8.9l/100k to 8.3l/100k (average of last 5 fill ups) for a stock 2006 manual standard with just over 12,000km on the clock.

Driving habits not significantly changed (but weather is a bit warmer) so I am happy with the change which is about break-even. It does seem to be "more responsive" and have a bit "more power" measured by the famously accurate "butt meter" and how much throttle is required to maintain a given speed.

May give BP Ultimate a go and see what that does.

[J-TODA]

oh ok ye mayb i should giv it time...so uz guys are averaging 9-11L/ 100kms ok ill keep an eye on dat...but damn by the end of these few months i will definetly be broke...any employers offering jobs pm me LOL!!!<< hopefully this does not get me banned =[

[tony1234]

Re: petrol brands(95 and 98) it appears all bar Shell get the :thumbsup: Does that sound right?

[80057]

hopefully i pick up my car before xmas, i can either get a BP or Caltex fuel card, which do you guys recommned out of those 2,

also how long do u think i should drive it in, my dad said 1000k but what do u guys think

[EuroDude]

BP Ultimate and Caltex 98RON are both great for me Euro. Take ur pick ;)

When you break-in a new car in, just drive it normally. Dont be too gentle but dont thrash it. You want the engine to get used to normal driving as soon as possible and you want to give it a good rev now and then so the piston rings seal properly.

Have a read of this article: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[tony1234]

Yep.As per eurodudes post.:thumbsup:

[industrie]

what about mobil 1????

[tony1234]

what about mobil 1????
Mobil is good.gets the :thumbsup: from nearly all on this site.

[industrie]

Mobil is good.gets the :thumbsup: from nearly all on this site.

thats great then, i just couldnt be bothered reading every page, but most of you guys had given BP and vortex was the go, as mobil 1 station is close to me...sweet!!

[sendok]

mobil 1 is good.. even tho i use shell :0...

for new car, drivin normally until 500km am i right?

[EuroDude]

Here's my preference in terms of performance vs economy (all 98RON)

BP Ultimate
Caltex
Mobil
Shell
Ampol (bad economy)
United and the other noname dodgy watered down places.

[tony1234]

Here's my preference in terms of performance vs economy (all 98RON)

BP Ultimate
Caltex
Mobil
Shell
Ampol (bad economy)
United and the other noname dodgy watered down places.
Yeah.sounds about right.What lead you to this conclusion?:)

[80057]

BP Ultimate and Caltex 98RON are both great for me Euro. Take ur pick ;)

When you break-in a new car in, just drive it normally. Dont be too gentle but dont thrash it. You want the engine to get used to normal driving as soon as possible and you want to give it a good rev now and then so the piston rings seal properly.

Have a read of this article: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

thanks Euro Dude, much appreciated and the rest of you guys thanks.

i read the mototune article and my old man says kinda the same thing about easy drive/idle till the engine is at normal operating temp then do some low flying, he said its about reaching the revs and speed and engine temp, not how fast u get there (which is thrashing) i guess i shoulda just listened, he is a mechanic after all. i asked him about the manuals saying to take it easy, and he laughed saying easy to tell everyone to take it easy then telling to drive it hard after a warm up and 1/2 the ppl just thrashing it.

[aaronng]

thats great then, i just couldnt be bothered reading every page, but most of you guys had given BP and vortex was the go, as mobil 1 station is close to me...sweet!!

Remember to go for Mobil 8000. The purple one.

[aaronng]

thanks Euro Dude, much appreciated and the rest of you guys thanks.

i read the mototune article and my old man says kinda the same thing about easy drive/idle till the engine is at normal operating temp then do some low flying, he said its about reaching the revs and speed and engine temp, not how fast u get there (which is thrashing) i guess i shoulda just listened, he is a mechanic after all. i asked him about the manuals saying to take it easy, and he laughed saying easy to tell everyone to take it easy then telling to drive it hard after a warm up and 1/2 the ppl just thrashing it.

Basically, drive it cautiously until the engine is warm, then drive normally but no clutch drops and hard starts.

BTW, the manual doesn't say to drive it gently. It says to avoid hard starts and clutch drops, as well as vary your RPM.

[80057]

sorry if i didnt mention it before, but im getting an auto, im planning for this to be the family car in a few years and the missus cant drive manual. hopefully then i can a gtr, s2000, evo X or somthin lol if i win lotto.

[aaronng]

It's similar in an auto. No launching of your car, and NEVER drop it into D at high RPM.

[80057]

so i should use the semi auto to hold it in gear longer to force higher revs instead of just letting the auto up shift

[aaronng]

so i should use the semi auto to hold it in gear longer to force higher revs instead of just letting the auto up shift

In the city, drive normally in D. But if you are forced to go on the motorways, use the semi auto to run the engine at different RPMs.

[80057]

thanks for you input,

sorry for changing the direction of the thread guys so back to petrol.

does anyone have anything against or for or experience, changing petrol brands from time to time?, such as continously using bp then changing to caltex and seeing an imediate difference.?

[EuroDude]

In terms of performance, no. But as for Fuel economy, yes I sometimes see quite a substantial difference. ~9.2L vs ~10.6L

[tony1234]

In terms of performance, no. But as for Fuel economy, yes I sometimes see quite a substantial difference. ~9.2L vs ~10.6L
Is that right?Which fuels are you talking about.

[EuroDude]

Is that right?Which fuels are you talking about.

The list I posted on page 10. Basically, BP Ultimate and Caltex Vortex give my car the best economy. Performance wise, all 98RON seems about the same.

Although when I compare 95RON to 98RON, I notice the engine accelerates a bit better or smoother on 98RON. Or maybe its just in my mind lol

[^__^ SM ^__^]

Actually, I've noticed a bit more torque on Caltex Vortex 95 compared to V-power. V-power required the engine to rev higher to get the car moving. Just my 2c. :)

[EuroDude]

You really need to turn off VSC to determine if there is a performance difference.

VSC feels like it eats 20kw during a clean acceleration (no wheel spin). In fact I turn it off all the time now, except when it rains or if the road is dodgy. Its almost as if VSC uses a separate engine map lol

[aaronng]

^^ VSC doesn't limit power nor torque. But if you are wheelspinning, it would be slower than with it off.

[EuroDude]

^^ VSC doesn't limit power nor torque. But if you are wheelspinning, it would be slower than with it off.


Na man at full throttle there is definitely a performance difference. The car feels much more aggressive at low-mid revs, even when the car has complete traction on a good surface.

My best guess is that VSC limits the electronic throttle to some extend, to avoid wheel slips and bad traction on poor road surfaces. Not sure if VSC is pre-mapped to do that, or if the sensors are too sensitive picking up even the slightest wheel speed difference, but I'm very certain something is going on there.

[yfin]

Na man at full throttle there is definitely a performance difference. The car feels much more aggressive at low-mid revs, even when the car has complete traction on a good surface.

My best guess is that VSC limits the electronic throttle to some extend, to avoid wheel slips and bad traction on poor road surfaces. Not sure if VSC is pre-mapped to do that, or if the sensors are too sensitive picking up even the slightest wheel speed difference, but I'm very certain something is going on there.

Unless you see that "!" symbol flash for traction control or "flash" "flash" "flash" for VSA - the VSA is not doing anything to limit power to the wheels.

[EuroDude]

But even if VSA limits the electronic throttle for a split second, you would see the /!\ flash anyway since it happens so fast.

I dont know, maybe Honda updated the VSA system a bit in the MY06 models or something.

If it was only a small performance difference then I would think twice, but with my car, there is a definite difference.

VSA ON - The car accelerates very smoothly and feels safe.
VSA OFF - The car accelerates more frugal and rough, and light on its feet.

[yfin]

But even if VSA limits the electronic throttle for a split second, you would see the /!\ flash anyway since it happens so fast.

I dont know, maybe Honda updated the VSA system a bit in the MY06 models or something.

If it was only a small performance difference then I would think twice, but with my car, there is a definite difference.

VSA ON - The car accelerates very smoothly and feels safe.
VSA OFF - The car accelerates more frugal and rough, and light on its feet.

If VSA works for a fraction of a section it will still flash. I think you are getting wheel spin if you are noticing a difference :)

Try a rolling start in 1st gear in the dry - say from 3000rpm to red line. See if you notice any difference in acceleration. You shouldn't.

[EuroDude]

I notice a difference in 2nd and 3rd gear as well, not just during the initial take off.

VSA really does feel like it hesitates the acceleration between say 2000rpm and 4500rpm. Not all the time, but easily around 75% of the time.

Maybe someone else here with an 06 model can verify my findings.

[tony1234]

I notice a difference in 2nd and 3rd gear as well, not just during the initial take off.

VSA really does feel like it hesitates the acceleration between say 2000rpm and 4500rpm. Not all the time, but easily around 75% of the time.

Maybe someone else here with an 06 model can verify my findings.
Yeah.I think there is something in what you say.from a standing start there seems to be a diff.it seems a little "sharper" off the mark.but i agree with yfin and aaronng when say doing 60ks drop down a gear and give it full throttle there is no diff.Maybe it's in my mind as well!!!:D

[BiLL|z0r]

I do agree with Eurodude and Tony as well. I know it shouldn't have any effect unless there is wheel spin/slide but it does seem diff to me as well, esp low revs and powering out of corners.

[Adagio]

After 27,000kms trying Vortex 95, BP Premiun and Ultimate I can say that Ultimate seemed to suit the Euro and made the engine seem sweeter. Do note that I used only Vortex 95 so maybe Vortex 98 is just as good.

[EuroDude]

regarding VSA ~
Going a bit off topic from Petrol lol, Ive made a new poll thread http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56903

[tron07]

So far so good with me & caltex....2nd tank already.

Cant wait to WOT my K24A.... will take it for a oil and filter change next week, then can WOT already. Once a while taking off from 1st gear, the VSA light does indeed come up, maybe launch it slightly too hard.

[tony1234]

After 27,000kms trying Vortex 95, BP Premiun and Ultimate I can say that Ultimate seemed to suit the Euro and made the engine seem sweeter. Do note that I used only Vortex 95 so maybe Vortex 98 is just as good.
i've mainly used vortex 98 and ultimate,both about the same i think.

[Suntzu]

Im getting awesome fuel economy on BP ultimate 9.8L/100km in town/city driven HARD. Im impressed and smooth power also!

[conroe]

No difference in power. ...
95 octane feels more powerful but rougher.

I agree

[industrie]

BP ultimate does it better than mobil 1 or shell....for me personally

[CL69]

Just thought you all should know!! When a refinery has a part of the plant shut down and can't keep supply to the market, it purchases it from its competitors for an agreed price and sells it at its own stations. Therefore you don't really know if you are buying product a or b or a mixture of both. The fuel you buy from independent stations generally comes from the major suppliers. All fuel that is sold has to pass minimum specifications and is strictly lab controlled. As to whether 98 or 95 is best for the Euro, its a personal choice. The higher the RON, the better the burn and the less the engine requires to get the same power output. I have seen a test done on 2 Ford V8 engines comparing BP Ultimate with BP standard over 80,000klms. The inlet/exhaust valves looked brand new (no gunge) when compared to the engine using standard. This is why I use Ultimate in my Euro, even if I'm not sure if it is Ultimate, ALL the time!!!

[80057]

interesting CL69, but yeh i'll stick to bp ultimate of vortex 98

[Adagio]

Well said CL69 what you say makes sense. I understand BP Ultimate is only refined in WA for all of Australia. I suspect that BP stations having Ultimate do not get a competitor's equivalent. This is based on the number of BP Ultimate pumps I come across with "Sorry" on the pump handle. To me that means BP are not prepared to compromise or am I too gullible??

[VirIIx]

It's all psychological sometimes :]

If you think it's good.. it's good..

However, i've always had the worst experience with Mobil 98, in every vehicle i've driven so far, tho the normal unleaded Mobil stuff works fine.

Maybe it's just all in my head.

Never had issues with BP Ultimate and it always runs well. I only stick to Shell, Caltex and BP.

I use Shell more because it's around where I work, live and drive around. However, same with the Caltex stations. BP i've found difficult to locate in certain areas.

[Adagio]

Of course its mostly psychological. I know every car I have owned went better when I washed them and fairly flew when I washed and waxed them:p
I wonder if we are going to be so picky on brands in 10 years time. Will we be discussing the pros and cons of various hydrogen generators, lithium ion batteries etc:confused:

[aaronng]

^^ Fifth Gear used washing and waxing to increase the acceleration of their vege oil-powered mercedes. LOL

[80057]

now that i have a euro i can join the conversation,

i went to port mac from sydney over the break (about 430ks for those who dont know how far) vortex 98 on the way up and bp ultimate on the way home, i couldnt feel any difference. tho i had a heavier load on the way back. i did notice bp was more fuel efficient 7.9/100 compared to 8.3/100, even tho i had a heavier load when using bp, but it could be my driving, i had hardly any traffic both ways, only to 4.15 to get there and 5hrs to get home.

in 6 days i have done nearly 1400kms, lol time for the 1000k service.

[sodaz]

Sydney is now out of V power. What's going on?

[ZEi20T]

i found out today when i went to fill up, had to use octane boost and regular unleaded :(

apparently they have been out since boxing day. damn!

[aaronng]

i found out today when i went to fill up, had to use octane boost and regular unleaded :(

apparently they have been out since boxing day. damn!

You should have used 95 or went for BP Ultimate, Mobil 8000 or Caltex Vortex98. Octane booster is not good for your car. It fouls the combustion chamber a bit.

[ZEi20T]

i wasnt sure i would make it there, after i had already visited a few other servos and the needle was lower than id like :P

the shells around my area dont seem to stock 95! they have regular, v-power and v-power racing (100ron E5) anyway its a one off and only needs to last me till next week.

its funny how you say it fouls the combustion chamber, on the bottle it says is cleans it lol how ironic! but yes i know what they do, it was a quick fix because i was desperate