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View Full Version : boost on built internals (need advice)



guyverias
01-12-2006, 08:42 PM
my first post here...
guys, i need advice. how much of boost can i run on built internals. here are the parts that i used.
low comp forged ross pistons, eagle rods, block guard, arp headstud, acl bearings, reworked head, and for the turbo i use t28 (s15 turbo) with a mocal oil cooler. im new in this forced induction thing. i want a "safe & reliable" but fast engine. o yeah, im using haltech e6x for the ecu. my engine code is d17a2 sohc vtec (civic vi what they called in oz)

please advice guys...i dont wanna break my engine.

btw, hi to all melbournians. i used to live in melb for 5 years :)

Slow96GSR
01-12-2006, 08:54 PM
First pull it apart and get rid of the block guard. Second save for good sleeves and do it right. Third you have a good setup now for 20 psi, sleeve it and go to 30 psi. Do more and hit 40 psi. The block, pistons, and block guard are made of different materials that expand and contract at different rates and amounts. All the motors we have gotten in, including mine, have had warped cyiniders too far out to hone and reuse the same pistons, had to get an oversized or more oversized piston, some even had to be resleeved. If you want to keep it that is up to you and I am sure many people will say theres is doing just fine, but I have built more than one motor, and it's not just the Hondas that this happens to.

http://www.strathlan.com/CMS/viewtopic.php?t=16

Weq
04-12-2006, 10:42 AM
slow96gsr: i wouldnt want that t28 blowing 20+psi of boost into my sleeves, no matter what material they are made from :P

Slow96GSR
04-12-2006, 03:46 PM
Thus you use a darton sleeve, like the MID. I have seen many a t28 doing 20 psi on stock motors and doing just fine, it's the tuning, and you don't go any higher. If you want to be safe you sleeve it. Block guards are the devil.

JasonGilholme
04-12-2006, 03:57 PM
Please listen to Slow96GSR. He knows what he's talking about.

Slow96GSR
04-12-2006, 04:54 PM
Thanks; I try to know. There are a few things I don't know, I don't always chime in unless I know an answer or a suggestion.

JasonGilholme
04-12-2006, 04:55 PM
Well half/most of the stuff you've said can be backed up by plenty of posts on OH or HT easily. lol

Slow96GSR
04-12-2006, 05:51 PM
You know I have never been to HT. Just never needed to I guess. Also I hear there's a lot of BS going on there and it takes forever to get a real answer.

shecomb
05-12-2006, 07:46 AM
Thus you use a darton sleeve, like the MID. I have seen many a t28 doing 20 psi on stock motors and doing just fine, it's the tuning, and you don't go any higher. If you want to be safe you sleeve it. Block guards are the devil.


Are you saying you can happily push 20psi into a stock block as long as the tuning is right???? Maybe i should just wind up the boost!!:cool:

I hope you are referring to a motor that isn't stock as with 20psi and 10+ comp the head would blow off

Slow96GSR
05-12-2006, 10:39 AM
You can, with tuning, run 20- psi on a stock sleeve with block guard, thus the statement--->"...Third you have a good setup now for 20 psi, sleeve it and go to 30 psi. Do more and hit 40 psi..."

It wasn't read correctly by anyone. But I have also seen cars run 20psi without the block guard and only run on track, and rebuilt after every race week. It's not hard and when you are at this alt you only see about 15psi.

shecomb
05-12-2006, 05:52 PM
does that also mean stock pistons, rods, rings, headbolts etc etc or are you only referring to sleeves?

I remember the days where everyone was certain 7psi was MAX boost for a stock Honda but nowadays it seems the theory is changing.

JasonGilholme
05-12-2006, 06:07 PM
Is that 20 psi at your altitude slowgsr?? What is your altitude btw?? lol

Cause at sea level wouldn't that be a big diference if you add atmospheric pressure on top??

Slow96GSR
05-12-2006, 07:53 PM
I am at 6500 feet. We run a vac of about 14-16 instead of at sea level with a 20-22. 20 psi here is about 25 psi at sea level. Also why we do a CR of 9:1 where as at sea level we build with a 8.5:1 to 8:1 CR. The best part is it's easier for me to come race there then for you to come race here, we have less tuning then you would. Sometime I don't have to retune that much if I go down up to 2000 feet. Hell Denver is 60 miles from here and 1500 feet lower and I don't retune anything.

guyverias
08-12-2006, 01:35 PM
sorry for the late reply..so you're saying that i shouldnt use block guard? and sleeve the block instead? o yeah and for the turbo, i cant find any good t28 in jakarta, so i bought a turbonetics t3/t4 instead.
i dont understand about the sea level...im noob u know?

saxman
08-12-2006, 02:00 PM
block guards should never be used imo


If sleeving is a possibility for you, I don't think there's anybody out there that would try to suggest a block guard is a better option.


the issue with sea level is that the higher in altitude you go, the less dense the air is, so higher boost levels can be ran due to a less dense charge.

Slow96GSR
08-12-2006, 02:11 PM
Yup, and that's why you don't see a lot of NA builds up here. Costs too much for too little gained. Get it sleeved. Dartons would be my suggestion but there are a few other options.

guyverias
09-12-2006, 12:24 PM
got it. thanks all

Weq
11-12-2006, 09:20 AM
20psi on that t28 is hot air. enough said.

nd55
31-01-2007, 09:09 PM
hey Mr Slow96GSR,

what's your opinion of 'posting' a block as detailed by My Larry Widmer?

Is it suitable for a budget NA build (7500rpm max on a D16 block).
How about a FI D16 12psi max, 7000 rpm max.
What's the longevity of doing this on a daily driver?

Thanks.
Nick Daglis.