reved it past 6rmp and it just died

[aplose]

hey guys

yesterday i just gave it a hit and reved it past 6rpm and my car just died then tried it again, it was fine has this ever happen to anyone?
if so does anything know wat it is?

thanks

[chicken8]

never had anything like that

im guessing your engine was cold

vtec doesn't engage when engine is cold. and vtec engages at 6k rpm.

[Mr_will]

what he said^. if you're silly enough to be attempting to rev that high when its cold, mr honda will say no, in the form of a fuel cutout, which will feel exactly like your regular cutout if you hit that (obviously at a higher rpm)

[chicken8]

i never rev past 4k to be honest until i get 3 bars on my temp gauge. and also when the cars warm and i restart the car i tend to not rev it out until 3 or 4mins into the drive.

just personal habit and some may say its unnecessary but i try to take it easy in the car

[Matyi]

Dont go crazy on it until its warmed up. Same as with any car. If you do, there may not be enough oil lubricating the internals and you may damage important bits.

[Mr_will]

Dont go crazy on it until its warmed up. Same as with any car. If you do, there may not be enough oil lubricating the internals and you may damage important bits.


its not just lubrication, its how the metal is expanding/contracting as well. ideally you want everything expanding at the same rate, especially when it comes to things like rods, which do stretch. this avoids metal on metal contact, which needless to say, sucks

[ROLLED]

hey guys

yesterday i just gave it a hit and reved it past 6rpm and my car just died then tried it again, it was fine has this ever happen to anyone?
if so does anything know wat it is?

thanks

I feel sorry for the next owner of this car...:thumbdwn:

[Chi]

Man the guy hasnt even said anythign about not warming up.

you guys all jump to the conclusion from one comment of not warming up.


Stoopid ozhonda wannabe internet mechanics.

[destrukshn]

keyboard mechanics ftw.
lol

[xtercii]

hhahaha hectic!!!

[chicken8]

i think i know your car. is it a 2000 white with 76,000km on it bought for $35k from epping area?

[WhiteAP1]

Man the guy hasnt even said anythign about not warming up.

you guys all jump to the conclusion from one comment of not warming up.


Stoopid ozhonda wannabe internet mechanics.


They havnt jummped to any conclusions this problem can only be caused by the car being reved before its warmed up.Its a simple as that. As the original poster stated the car was fine later, most likely after it had warmed up. The diagnosis was not only a conclusion it was the cause.

[aplose]

i think i know your car. is it a 2000 white with 76,000km on it bought for $35k from epping area?

yeah thats the one...

i had 2 bars on the temp gauge... thanks for the in put next time ill know not to give it a hit untill its fully warmed up..


thanks guys

[chicken8]

yeah thats the one...

i had 2 bars on the temp gauge... thanks for the in put next time ill know not to give it a hit untill its fully warmed up..


thanks guys

if you remember. i was the guy who came to see the car just as you/your gf was putting down a deposit for it.

the car looks immaculate. have u done the 80km service yet? if so how much was it?

[ECU-MAN]

2 bars isnt enough dude,

wait till all 3 come on then an extra 5 min or so.

[iced]

at least 10-15min of normal driving is what it takes for oil to warm up to nominal operating temp.

if you're going off the water temp gauge and you're redlining it before the water is even at nominal temp dont expect oil to be anywhere near there.
oil can sometimes take 5 times longer to warm up.
say 3min for water to hit ~80degC
yet it takes 15min for oil to hit ~80degC
for oil to warm up faster you need to drive the car but that doesnt mean you revs its **** out. same reason why its unnecessary to idle the car to warm it up.

[aplose]

if you remember. i was the guy who came to see the car just as you/your gf was putting down a deposit for it.

the car looks immaculate. have u done the 80km service yet? if so how much was it?

yeah i remember... wat did u end up getting??.. yeah the car was in very good nick

yeah did the 80km service costed me $550 i think cant remember...

[chicken8]

i ended up getting a sept 02 model silverstone with all red interior with 40km on it

$550 is pretty good price for a 80km service. was it at a dealer or at hanny's?

[aplose]

nice.. how much did u pick it up for?

my gf brother has a workshop he did it for me .... he was a ex ower of a s2k so im pretty sure he knows was going on with these cars.

[Vuey]

yeah thats the one...

i had 2 bars on the temp gauge... thanks for the in put next time ill know not to give it a hit untill its fully warmed up..


thanks guys


hey bro , if that is the case that your car is warmed up , sounds like you got a map sensor problem or there is a problem with your Vtec solinoid / connection ( i think thats how you spell it)

a mate of mine had the same problem with his .

2 things you can try , tap the map sensor with the handle of a screw driver.
Also - do you have the "bunny hopping problem" in low revs ?

2nd , just make sure your vtec solinoid is connected properly.

however, keep in mind this is just my opinion , and always best to get a professional mechanic's opinion . ;)

[e240]

Revving a car (especially not to only 6 grand) when cold will not cause it to die out...period, its just that its not good for the engine. And what of the fuel cutoff bullshit when cold?

If it dies, its probably due to another fault or a tuning issue (especially if you've got aftermarket computers or are running colder plugs.)

[ROLLED]

The s2000 won't let you rev over 6000rpm before the engine has reached 3 bars or is on 2 bars and nearing 3.

Try getting into a s2k, start it up on a cold morning and try revving over 6k!

[destrukshn]

so what it actually dies? turns off?

[e240]

The s2000 won't let you rev over 6000rpm before the engine has reached 3 bars or is on 2 bars and nearing 3.

Try getting into a s2k, start it up on a cold morning and try revving over 6k!

Yes, but the engine doesn't stall and die......A rev limiter (using fuel cut) just stops it from revving over 6...

[Mr_will]

Revving a car (especially not to only 6 grand) when cold will not cause it to die out...period, its just that its not good for the engine. And what of the fuel cutoff bullshit when cold?

If it dies, its probably due to another fault or a tuning issue (especially if you've got aftermarket computers or are running colder plugs.)



actually, if youd bothered to read the rest of the thread, youd know you were wrong.

its the same system that lotus has on the toyota engine-d elise's - if you try to redline it when its cold, you'll meet the fuel cutout a lot earlier

edit: i just read your last post, you have contradicted yourself nicely

[Mr_will]

And what of the fuel cutoff bullshit when cold?




.A rev limiter (using fuel cut) just stops it from revving over 6...


hmmmm

[aaronng]

It's the same system on even on Toyota's using the 2ZZ, Honda K series and F series. When cold, the cutoff on the Euro is 4500rpm.

[chicken8]

on my 01 corolla auto. during winter on cold start it won't engage 4th gear until the temperature has reached optimum

every car these days will have some sort of protective mechanism to stop you from causing any unnecessary damage to your car due to cold starts

[Mr_will]

on my 01 corolla auto. during winter on cold start it won't engage 4th gear until the temperature has reached optimum


what would being in fourth gear do as far as damage to the engine goes?

[ECU-MAN]

its not always rpms that can be bad for a cold motor and drive train, load isnt good either

[chicken8]

its not always rpms that can be bad for a cold motor and drive train, load isnt good either

yeah. that.

because the gear ratios for 4th are much higher than 3rd (in an auto car its sometimes called the overdrive gear. used for cruising)

so its putting more load on the engine.

but i always drove my rolla at like 3500rpm in 3rd when i was on my way to work on the cold winter mornings. i dunno which would be doing more harm. cruising in 4th or revving it up in 3rd

[ECU-MAN]

cruising in 4th isnt bad and neither is giving it some in 3rd on a cold day, giving it some in 3rd with a cold engine is still loading it up a bit.

[Mr_will]

some interesting points, i know i always avoid over-revving when the engine is cold, and i'd say the same as most people, i probly end up putting it under load more than usual

[aaronng]

some interesting points, i know i always avoid over-revving when the engine is cold, and i'd say the same as most people, i probly end up putting it under load more than usual

Yes, when the engine is cold, it is better to have the engine go along at 3000rpm uphill, rather than lugging it at 2000rpm

[Mr_will]

Yes, when the engine is cold, it is better to have the engine go along at 3000rpm uphill, rather than lugging it at 2000rpm

can you explain the reasoning behind this?

[chicken8]

more stress on the engine

stress = bad mmmmmkay?

[Mr_will]

more stress on the engine

stress = bad mmmmmkay?


thanks captain obvious.

there is stress on the engine at higher rpms too. what i am interested in is why it is better to be at a higher rpm when cold than to have excessive load on the engine.

[e240]

hmmmm

Do you understand english? The engine does not die out, its hits a lower rev limit but it does not die. The original posters issue was that the engine died.

Contradict myself? Pah...you can't read.

[ECU-MAN]

when the engine is under load you get mo thrust between the piston and thrust side of the cylinder wall, when the engine is cold the piston is not at it correct size. the F22B is a classic example of this, they start to sound like a diesel engine when cold before they seize the bottom end

[aaronng]

can you explain the reasoning behind this?

ECU-MAN has explained it well! When the engine is cold, the clearances between the piston and the wall are not at operating temperature spec yet. There are areas which have slightly less clearance and areas with slightly more. When you apply too much load, there is more side forces acting on the piston (because of the rod angle in relation to the piston and crank position). If you manage to get the side forces spot on to the area with less clearance, you end up squeezing the thin layer of oil til there is nothing left and you get metal to metal contact. When that happens, the bottom end is on the way to siezing (it happens gradually). It may be a small chance, but at 2000rpm, that's 2000 chances per cylinder per minute. Even at 0.05% chance of that occurring, it's almost certain to happen at least once after you go through 2000 revolutions a minute. :) If you put heavy load without that oil film, you sieze the piston to the cylinder wall. If you are lucky that the film was restored, your engine gets to continue running.

I had this happen to our Toyota Cressida. Zero warmup and a nice 10 degree incline just 2 junctions from the house everyday. This was the 2nd scenario where the oil film was restored as the car was an auto and it would downshift on its own once there was enough load. What happened after going through that every working day that was lots of blowby because of the scoured cylinder wall. The pressure pushed the crank seal out slightly and we were leaking about 4L worth of oil in about 5 days.