engine light came on!! HELP!! cant rev!

[gxiang]

first notice problem when starting the car. the engine felt sudden drop in power then back on again.

then driving on fwy, the engine lost power (lag) for a split second. happened twice.

after, went over a some tram lines and bumps, engine light came on. i suddenly felt my car cant trouble revving! i step on it and the car would take ages to just to speed up but i can hear the engine noise increase?? rev dont go up either.

i slowed down. stop. restart, engine light went away. but on the way home i felt that my car would coast without ANY throttle pressed like a automatic car...engine break dont seem to work at all.

anyone help me out here.

could this be my flywheel + clutch or something more serious?

i just installed clutch + fly 1000kms ago.

thanks

[Slow96GSR]

First I would open the hood and check all plugs and make sure all the wire harnesses are not loose. Then check the throttle cable and make sure it isn't stuck and the bracket is tightly on. Then pull the spark plugs and check those, at this time you can check the wires too and make sure they were on tight. Once the plugs are back in pop the distributor cap and check the rotor and cap.

Do you have a full tank of gas? When was the last oil change/tune-up?

[mugen88]

Engine light on means the ecu has picked up something abnormal and will only allow you to rev upto 3000rpm in most cases. As suggested by Slow96GSR, check all the points but it is most likley you will need to take it to a dealer.

The dealer can put a electronic scan tool and can check for engine fault codes and hav it reset. Depending on the problem you may need to get this looked at immediatley.

I dont think this would hav anything to do with yr clutch. Do you hav any other mods such as exhaust or headers sometime the flex pipe can hav a hole or the gaskets can wear and leak, which can cause the ecu engine light to come on. Is there a change in the exhaust sound at idle at all?

In any case to be safe take into a dealer if yr not to confident with looking under the hood.

[ATSE]

Sounds like your spark plug cable has prob popped out of the dizzy. Check all the spark plug cables as Slow96GSR has said and make sure they are connected tight into the dizzy cap. Happened to me a few weeks ago, I went over some tram lines and one of the cables popped out, running on 3 cylinders and engine light on. Popped it back in and no problems. If they are popping out frequently, time to replace the cap, which is not expensive.

[VT3C]

Engine light on means the ecu has picked up something abnormal and will only allow you to rev upto 3000rpm

nah man.. if your ECU is only letting you rev to ~3,000RPM you are in LIMP MODE. Depending on the sensor effected is may or may not effect the engine performance at all.

and I doubt it'd be leads - I dont think there's a code (CEL) for an unplugged lead etc.

do a search on how to "CHECK CODES" and tell us what number code you're throwing.. dont bother taking to Honda Dealer to check your codes or it will cost you an arm an leg for a semple DIY jobby.

[gxiang]

will check codes tonight or tmrw as i have work :(
and yea i think once the engine light came on i wasnt allowed to rev any higher than 3k rpm.


Do you hav any other mods such as exhaust or headers sometime the flex pipe can hav a hole or the gaskets can wear and leak, which can cause the ecu engine light to come on. Is there a change in the exhaust sound at idle at all?

yea i have the full I/H/E mod. leak im not too sure. as for change in exhuast sound i get a rattle when i rev and it comes on aroudn 3k mark.

however my idle was fluctuating after the incident. so im guessing my IACV. i had this problem before but was fixed with a clean and using new fuel.

[blk_shadow]

i got that too before, lights on, losing rev, engine power drops.
it can be ecu wiring that is not properly connected or wired.
for sure, get the ecu checked.

[bennjamin]

in all seriousness something has come loose ?

anyway try this DIY ECU check

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8218

[blk_shadow]

I just remembered in my case before too,
2 wires around the ecu that aren't supposed to be touching together, they touched. so I ended up wrapping each wires with tape with the help of a car electrician.

[[[d a n n y]]]

need a code first then we can move on from there

do the DIY engine code test see what u get

[gxiang]

i had a look at my connector to the ECU and both were un-plugged like Bennjamin's DIY which were both connected onto the green connector, is this a problem? should i plug the other one into the green connector before i perform the ECU check ?

one of my connecter has 3 wires in it (black , red, green/white) and the other connect only has 2 wires in it, (black and red).

which connector do i plug my hairpin into ? would i short circuit my ECU if i plug it into the wrong connect??

[bigjo5]

check the sensor that is on ur throttle.

[bennjamin]

i had a look at my connector to the ECU and both were un-plugged like Bennjamin's DIY which were both connected onto the green connector, is this a problem? should i plug the other one into the green connector before i perform the ECU check ?

one of my connecter has 3 wires in it (black , red, green/white) and the other connect only has 2 wires in it, (black and red).

which connector do i plug my hairpin into ? would i short circuit my ECU if i plug it into the wrong connect??


its supposed to sit in the foot well like yours does.
Take the 2 WIRE one out , and place a bare paper clip or speaker wire on both sides to short it out and display a ECU code (if any) on the dash.

[saxman]

I don't understand why people are throwing out random suggestions. The CEL comes on to tell you generally what the problem is. It's silly to guess with that information available. Just wait until it's discovered what the cel says.

[ECU-MAN]

check your spare tyre air pressure, could be low

[Slow96GSR]

Lol ECU-MAn! If we're going with those thoughts it could be low blinker fluid.

[gxiang]

check your spare tyre air pressure, could be low

you not serious are you? i dont have a spare tyre in my boot. took it out.

[saxman]

you not serious are you? i dont have a spare tyre in my boot. took it out.

no, he's not serious... he's making about as rediculous as a guess as half the other ones


GO CHECK THE CODE!

[kyle]

you not serious are you? i dont have a spare tyre in my boot. took it out.

BHAHAHAHAHAH * 1000000000000000000000000000

[bennjamin]

ffs

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1022299&postcount=8

[gxiang]

anyways i tried the ecu check. i put a hairpin inside my connector with the two wires.

when i turned on my car, nothin happenend. the engine light just came on once and dissappeared again.

hmm did i do something wrong?

[bennjamin]

try it again...you might of connected it wrong.
Try both "sides" of the 2 wire clip.

[kyle]

the engine light just came on once and dissappeared again.

Maybe you have a code 1?
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
Unplugged that may trigger limp mode?



But more than likley you didnt do it properly because when you turn on the ignition usually the MIL/CEL SRS, OIL and Temp Lights flash on and off kind of like a POST(Power on self test) Like when you turn on your pc.

Instead of using a paper clip use a piece of speaker wire or hookup cable, the pin might not of been fat enough to touch the contacts and complete the circut.

-Kyle

[bennjamin]

when doing this "DIY" test , the ECU light will come on ONCE as normal ( and you will hear the fuel pump prime / click) , THEN a ECU code/s will flash out

[ECU-MAN]

Maybe you have a code 1?
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
Unplugged that may trigger limp mode?



But more than likley you didnt do it properly because when you turn on the ignition usually the MIL/CEL SRS, OIL and Temp Lights flash on and off kind of like a POST(Power on self test) Like when you turn on your pc.

Instead of using a paper clip use a piece of speaker wire or hookup cable, the pin might not of been fat enough to touch the contacts and complete the circut.

-Kyle

O2 will trigger MIL but not Limp

[gxiang]

ok just did a test. this is what it came up with.

Engine light :
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve

ABS light: what are these? anywhere i can find out
13 and 61

SRS light:
93? not too sure it jst kept on flashing and 3 quick lights at the end however it didnt repeat like the other lights did and just had it lit on all the time.


i will be getting a new IACV next week to fix my fluctuating idle. how do i go about the MAP sensor?

[ECU-MAN]

im guessing these codes poped up for a 99 S2000. ( I have no idea what car you have, you didnt mention it )

ABS code

13 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor open/short <--- needs testing with multi meter

61 Lo FSR B Voltage <----- reset and ignore might be from a flat battery


reset the ABS ECU by bridging the SCS conector and then turn on the IGN to pos II while you have your foot on the brake pedal, when the ABS light comes on take your foot off the pedal, then the ABS light goes out then put your foot on the brake pedal, the ABS light comes on you take your foot off, the the ABS light bill rapidly blink to indicate DTC eraced.

[gxiang]

im guessing these codes poped up for a 99 S2000. ( I have no idea what car you have, you didnt mention it )

ABS code

13 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor open/short <--- needs testing with multi meter

61 Lo FSR B Voltage <----- reset and ignore might me from flat battery


reset the ABS ECU by bridging the SCS conector and then turn on the IGN to pos II while you have your foot on the brake pedal, when the ABS light comes on take your foot of the pedal, then the ABS lightgoes out then put your foot on the brake pedal, the ABS light comes on you take your foot off, the the ABS light bill rapidly blink to indicate DTC eraced.

oo sorry for the confusion. its not for the s2000. these problems are on my daily EK4.

ECU-MAN where bouts is the SCS connector on the EK4 and im assuming its the same process to reset it?


also with regards to my MAP sensor, could my idle be a problem because my IACV is faulty or vice versa? or do you recommend i change both. because when i used a new fuel, my idle were perfect and back to normal

[ECU-MAN]

codes for SRS in the 9- are internal SRS unit faults.

you have to many codes in a few systems, I would have a good guess and say something isnt conected propery after the clutch was done. hard to sat with out looking at the car but realy need to check all your conectors and ground points.

[ECU-MAN]

ECU-MAN where bouts is the SCS connector on the EK4 and im assuming its the same process to reset it?


also with regards to my MAP sensor, could my idle be a problem because my IACV is faulty or vice versa? or do you recommend i change both. because when i used a new fuel, my idle were perfect and back to normal

the SCS is located under the glove box, its the blue two pin conector you bridged to get the codes out of the ECU's


os for the MAP and IACV, I would not just replace them with out testing them 1st, or at leats try some from another identicle car as a test. ( MAP sensor are very reliable )

Ill double check the ABS stuff for EK as I quoted for S2k, but I recon its the same give me 5

[gxiang]

codes for SRS in the 9- are internal SRS unit faults.

you have to many codes in a few systems, I would have a good guess and say something isnt conected propery after the clutch was done. hard to sat with out looking at the car but realy need to check all your conectors and ground points.

out of all the codes the only one i wasnt aware of was the SRS and the MAP sensor. IACV and ABS sensor i knew about the problem already but didnt have time to fix it.

what really worries me is the MAP sensor. so this couldnt contributed to my initial car problem??

[ECU-MAN]

you should reset all your ECU's


remove the ABS B2 15A fues in the under hood relay box for the ABS system.

resetting the SRS ECU is a bit more tricky, you have to find the yellow SCS conector under the drivers side of the dash, and again conect it, turn on the IGN to pos II, when SRS light comes on then unplug it, when the SRS light goes out plug it back in, when the SRS light comes on unplug it, the SRS light will rapidly blink to indicate its memory has been erased.

[gxiang]

i just reset my SRS today and thats gone.

i also did a flush of my coolant but i noticed grim (black muddy stuff) on the opening of my radiator cap and on the walls of my coolant reserve bottle. is this a leak??

[dsp26]

****.. i have this issue.. misdiagnosed it as an icm issue... oh well at least i have a spare one now :/

just confirming its an O2 sensor issue

exact same symptoms to the word of the OP... once engine light comes on only way to get rid of it is to quickly shut off the ign then back on...

engine light also comes on but doesn't seem like it throws a code because it is in fact code 1 = o2 sensor...

gayballs

[EK4R]

i was wondering can the ECU check light thing be done to a dc5 with hondata

[aaronng]

i was wondering can the ECU check light thing be done to a dc5 with hondata

Get a generic OBD2 reader off ebay for $80-100. Plug it into the OBDII connector under the dash, read the code. Profit.

[CRXer]

if uve got a kpro,get a copy of kmanager for free & read any engine parameter or code u will ever need too.