Best initial upgrade for a Euro 05

[Schnark]

Hi Guys,

I've still got a stock 05 Euro Luxury but on the drive down from Syd -> Narooma yesterday, i came to the conclusion that i need more power (insert Scotty reference here).

What's the best initial mod/enhancement i can go for with it keeping in mind that I'd rather not (if possible) make my car the equivalent of a tank in petrol usage.

I've heard that Hondatech have some sort of kit that boosts up power pretty effeciently at a low cost - is it good guys?

Any other suggestions? In any particular order should i do x, y or z?

[aaronng]

How much power are you looking for, and what price are you willing to pay?

[Schnark]

I'm interested in my options - i've just come to the conclusion that when the lease runs out on the car in 1.5 years - i'll re-lease it for another 3 so i'd like a decent amount more.

I know that's kinda un-helpful but its the most honest answer i can give

[aaronng]

How much is a decent amount more power? 2%? 5%? 10%?

[Schnark]

I dunno - how about 10% more but i'm interested in options less and their rough price/what it involves

I've got a stock so i understand its 140kw but more realistically its around 100kw - is this right?

I wouldn't mind some more punch from the start (i.e. in 1st) and more importantly, some more punch when i'm trying to overtake people on the freeway - i tend to drive a lot between CBR-> Syd, CBR-ADE & CBR-Mel

[simbadda54]

just get IHE. All round goodness

[Schnark]

just get IHE. All round goodness

Okay - i'm relatively new to these forums - IHE

Something Honda Exhaust?

Something Honda Experience?

Imaginative Horny Elephants?

[_CiVIC_]

LOLLLLLLLL

good attempt lol!

IHE = Intake/Headers/Exhaust

:wave:

[Schnark]

IHE - is that the order i should go in fixing this up?

Any recommendations on what's good in each category or should i get off my ass and just spend a couple of hours reviewing forum posts?

I'm not adverse to spending some money on this, i just want to see tangible benefits

[aaronng]

I/H/E gives you more power in the mid range and up top. If you want instant torque, there's not many choices available yet. Even Comptech's supercharger gives you torque at 3000rpm and above, not below.

Hondata's reflash might be a good choice, coupled with the I/H/E. The Jtune package with I/H/E and reflash claimed to make 150kW on the dyno, with the majority of the gains in the midrange. $4000 though.

[EuroAccord13]

Search... There are heaps of modifications being discussed and performed here :)

[Schnark]

Well done - thanks for the obvious answer.

I can read lots and i have been, but i'd rather not spend thousands of dollars and not get the best option. Hence its smarter to ask other people who know what they're talking about rather than ...

[stephen8512]

Hi schnark
Welcome to ozhonda

Firstly, congrats on the Euro. It really is a cruisy car...ur gonna have fun with it im sure.

Now in regards to your question. It depends on money and what sort of power u are looking for.
If you replace the intake, headers and exhaust, then yeah it will make a difference to your cars overall power output but in terms of butt dyno, it'll still feel relatively the same. if you want to have more power and FEEL like u have more power, personally I think you should go forced induction (not on euro, but in general with any car).

But then again it depends on your application for your Euro as well.
If its for daily driving, then in terms of NA mods, the most bang for your buck would be something like

- comptech icebox intake (around 200-250)
- headers (DC or DC copies...around 800)
- catback exhaust (anywhere from 900 to 1500)

Then you can always get an APEXi Vafc II to retune the car and you should be looking at around 125ish kw at the wheels. Stock Euros put out just over 100kw I believe.

For me personally, I have the INJEN cold air intake which can be swapped from CAI (cold air intake) mode to SRI mode (short ram intake) mode, i.e you can see the pod filter in the engine bay). This loses less torque down bottom end but for long drives such as your Sydney to Narooma cruise, it's not beneficial as it would be sucking in hot air from the engine bay.

I also have the GREDDY EVO 2 exhaust. Now this was just a personal preference as I liked the look and the reputation that GREDDY has. In terms of power, theres probably better systems for power such as the J Racing single outlet exhaust that Chris_F has on his. But it is overall better than the stock exhaust system for sure. It IS breathing better.

And I have the MAXIM WORKS headers. This is regarded as possibly one of the best, if not THE best headers for the K24A3 engine we have in our euros, although it was really made with the K20 engine from the Euro R in mind. Craftsmanship is top notch and it holds most gains over other headers when coupled with a good exhaust. Overall, it is very good but it does come at a price . You'd be looking at around $2,000+ for a brand new one. The DC copies/DC ceramic headers are around 900 bucks or so. DC copies are the stainless steeel ones. Not sure how they are in terms of power but ask or PM TypeG as he has them on his euro along with his Fujitsubo Exhaust. The DC ceramic ones were known to crack after prolonged use, which is why I tried to steer clear from them.

So to sum up, an I/H/E combo would possibly be the best mods to start off with ur euro. Get it breathing better. And its probably the best option for people on a budget as well. But the one thing you'll find out is that modding the Euro is quite difficult simply because there's not a lot of mainstream aftermarket parts here in Australia. For e.g my Intake and Exhaust came from the United States and my headers came from Japan.

Its difficult to mod the Euro or any NA car to get power out of because it just ends up costing so much with little gains compared to modding a turbo car with plenty of aftermarket support such as an S15 or a Skyline.

I hope this has been informative for you and good luck in the future. Oh yeah. Post some pics too if you can. ^^

[EuroAccord13]

Well done - thanks for the obvious answer.

I can read lots and i have been, but i'd rather not spend thousands of dollars and not get the best option. Hence its smarter to ask other people who know what they're talking about rather than ...


K Chill dude.. You win
I'm a nooob..

A car is like a human, breathe better and fart better FTW!

Intake is a good start for you,
The following have been used and reviewed;
Injen CAI
K&N Typhoon CAI
CompTech IceBox
All these have proven gains..

Then there is the Apexi SRI which AaronNg has on his car at the moment, good induction sound even after he built an enclosure for it.

They all go for about 300 bucks now and it's a good bang for you buck.. However, Comptech is a closed intake system therefore the induction noise isn't as loud..


Headers;
MaximWorks - It's like the Armani of Exhausts after Amuse (Read previous post)
DC Sports - Entry level bang for your buck, some had issues with the system but gains throughout the powerband (About 400 bucks)
CompTech - Stainless Steel goodness, more expensive, good gains on the mid range, more than the DC sports (Around 700 bucks)
DC Sports Copies - Ebay ones, a few of the boys have it, some had fitting problems some don't, Stainless Steel...(around 200-250 I think)



Zorst
Some have gone the custom way, I'm running a single outlet (Custom system can range from el'cheapo MS press bend 300 bucks to SS mandrel bend up to 600 bucks)

We have a few mix of cat backs that people are using, I would recommend SKunk2's as your BFYB system

With power, you will need to have the car tuned for it..
Like some have said, the Apexi VAFCii is good for basic/medium level mods and if tuned well, delivers good gains. I got 126kws after a tune with I/H/E
There is also the newer version with more tuning parameters, the Apexi NEO.



I mean these are the basic ones you can do without blowing a big hole in the wallet....

When you are ready to spend more, that's when Hondata comes into play for you mate...


Oh here's a helpful thread too if $$$ is in mind....

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33407

Prices may have changed since but u get the idea....

If you are too lazy to search, just say so.....

Cheers;
I'm A Noob

[yfin]

I've got a stock so i understand its 140kw but more realistically its around 100kw - is this right?


It is 140kw at the engine - if not slightly more as the car dynos at the wheels around the same as other stock FWDs with quoted 147kw at the engine. Or the drivetrain is just more efficient.

In my view you shouldn't do anything regarding power until Jtune release their kits. That doesn't mean you end up buying one - it just gives you more options rather than buying i/h/e separate and then maybe trying to integrate it with the jtune retune.

It could well be that just the reflash (around $1000 - ie just the ecu program changed - no bolt ons) is worthwhile if you just want more overtaking punch without all the cost of i/h/e. The torque graphs I have seen just for the reflash look impressive and maybe enough improvement for your driving style.

By the way - is your car manual or auto? I find the overtaking at highway speeds impressive for what the car is - mine punches nicely in the 90-120 range in 3rd. Sometimes if I need a quick overtake from a slower speed (eg 80kph) I drop down to 2nd until 100kph and then change into 3rd when overtaking. I have to be quite careful when overtaking on the highway not to overspeed.

[simbadda54]

Ah sick ur in canberra as well, good to see another canberra guy on OH :) gl with ur car

[tony1234]

I agree with yfin.wait till the JTUNE gear is released.The advantage with it is it's IHE components are designed to compliment each other, you can do it all at once or add them on one by one if you wish.

[as001]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12532&highlight=flywheel

This thread will help you even though its about a dc5r its all relevant to the Euro