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View Full Version : DIY: Whiteline Rear Swaybar into 1998 - 2002 CG/CK series Honda Accord



SiReal
14-01-2007, 09:35 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

SAFETY FIRST!!!

Aim: Install Whiteline Rear Swaybar (RSB) into 1998 - 2002 CG/CK series Honda Accord
Time Required: 1-2 hours
Required: Usual car ramps, jack stands, 5mm Allen Key, 12mm Socket + ratchet, breaker bar would be good, 14mm spanner or adjustable spanner (the big ones!), Kenny G's greatest hits.
Other: Helper mate would be handy to hold RSB in place.

Please note this procedure should only be followed if your RSB is connected via Endlinks with RSB Brackets mounted to your subframe.

CIVIC and other with RSB LCA/Subframe setup: Please see page 2 notes from roar and Bennjamin. IMPORTANT!!!!

If you don't know what the above means, pay someone who knows, to install it for you.

Steps:

1. Preparation

1.1. Prepare car with stands + safety blocks.
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5815/miniimg5788ot2.jpg

1.2. All nice and sturdy. She ain't goin nowhere anytime soon!
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/8931/miniimg5801rm6.jpg

Get under the car once everything is secured. If unsure, re-secure, re-assess and don't take any unnecessary risks.

1.3. This is what you will be changing.
http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/936/miniimg5806oy6.jpg

1.4. These are the nuts/bolts on the Swaybar Endlinks you need to undo and redo. Put some WD40 on them first so undo is easier. Trust me, these are A B1ATCH!!!
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7685/miniimg5805vm2.jpg

1.5. Get your 5mm allen key and put it in the hex hole, then get your 14mm spanner (I used the big adjustable one first for more leverage!) and start undoing whilst holding the allen key stationary.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4210/miniimg5808sk3.jpg

1.6. Its OFF!
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/5452/miniimg5811ik3.jpg

1.7. Complete for both sides "No duuhh".

1.8. Next, you need to undo the brackets which hold the RSB onto the chassis. They look like this. But will look similiar for most makes.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/2469/miniimg5804iw6.jpg

1.9. I used a 12mm socket + ratchet + breaker bar as they were initially tight. And looky here:
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/5831/miniimg5809tj2.jpg
NB: This is the other side.

COMPLETED!

2. Installation

2.1. Bring out your sexehh RSB hotness.
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/4326/miniimg5812lz3.jpg

2.2. Bring out the Whiteline provided bushes + grease. Grease up the bushes + everything else you possibly can. hehe. I over applied and got grease all over my hands. POoo.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/2870/miniimg5813hw0.jpg

2.3. Re-install everything back in, starting with endlinks first then RSB brackets. Make sure everything is centered!

This is where the mate would come in handy to keep the RSB up close to the chassis so you can re-bolt the RSB bracket. Unfortunately my mate didn't come and I was left grunting and cursing for 30 minutes. End result:
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5177/miniimg5816wa7.jpg

2.4. Another view:
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/241/miniimg5817wl1.jpg

2.5. The whole shabang! - That's one tuff baby!
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/3377/miniimg5814uq2.jpg

2.6. Get a wheel alignment.

Borat says: "GREAT SUCCESS!"

Impressions + Other
- Thanks Trav (egSi) for your continued support. So far this man has provided/will be providing ALL my suspension. HI FIVE!
- Get yourself a Kenny G Greatest Hits CD. Dang, it will keep you nice and calm. Just don't fall asleep!
- The car is alot flatter than previous. Taking the same corners in Mt Dandenong with RSB is noticeably flatter. Now I just need better tyres!
- Great BFYB upgrade
- Don't comment on my rusty exhaust (which isn't actually rusty)
- Get out there, do some DIY's and learn more about your car :wave:

mugen88
15-01-2007, 11:53 AM
Wahh nice write up m8 A++++. :thumbsup:

egSi
15-01-2007, 12:02 PM
awesome stuff jeff, i didnt know ppl modded the CGs :p

whered u get the bar ;)

SiReal
15-01-2007, 12:44 PM
thanks all! its been a bliss, this bar.

you dont see many modded CG/CK accords in melb. if u do, they're mainly either really dumped and can't even turn full lock or they;ve got big wheels on king springs.

i hope to make this the fastest handling/cornering CK accord in melbourne.

panda[cRx]
15-01-2007, 12:51 PM
HIGH FIVE!!!!

nice write up mang, but now you have less of an excuse to be trailing behind in the hills ;)

Zdster
15-01-2007, 01:02 PM
whered u get the bar ;)

You already got one plug. How many do you need :p.

Nice write up jeff. Look forward to see what you do next :thumbsup:.

SiReal
15-01-2007, 01:48 PM
i'll still be trailing. :) Tyres are crap, sidewalls too big. hmm..need lightweight racing 17s.

EuroAccord13
15-01-2007, 02:05 PM
Good One Laaaaaaaa!!!

Do More DIYs!!! Good for Car and Self hahahaha!

misteR_bilzz
15-01-2007, 06:05 PM
nice writeup looks sinch! keep it up

Mr_will
15-01-2007, 06:26 PM
nice diy, + rep for you.

how do you feel about using the stock mounting brackets? for your subframes sake, it might be worth considering some sort of reinforcement - there have been quite a few cases of whiteline bars causing subframe tearout when the stock mounting brackets are used

SiReal
15-01-2007, 06:38 PM
thanks for your kind words guys!

@ claymore, just followin your footsteps dude ;)

@ Mr Will, as for subframe mounts being ripped out, i've been reading on the US forums about 20mm thick sways and i've never read of this problem. I've got an aftermarket sussy setup (i.e. koni + h&r), so hopefully, the roll pressure would be spread out amongst the shocks, springs and swaybar endlinks and mounts. It should be OK. if not, then poooo.

Mr_will
15-01-2007, 08:23 PM
ahh, the aftermarket sussy will definately make a positive difference, the main ones i have heard about (primarily civics and dc2 non r's) have been those with stock springs

yfin
15-01-2007, 08:31 PM
nice diy, + rep for you.

how do you feel about using the stock mounting brackets? for your subframes sake, it might be worth considering some sort of reinforcement - there have been quite a few cases of whiteline bars causing subframe tearout when the stock mounting brackets are used

Hey Mr Will - If you look at the 4th pic it looks like the sway connects to links rather than the subframe.

SiReal
15-01-2007, 08:32 PM
pic 1.4 is endlinks,. and 1.8, isnt that subframe?

yfin
15-01-2007, 08:44 PM
pic 1.4 is endlinks,. and 1.8, isnt that subframe?

Yaya that is the subframe but it doesn't connect directly there. Wouldn't, for example - a design such as the one on this Civic below put more pressure on the subframe rather than a sway that connects to end likns?

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/6881/beaksitrbarsv5.jpg

SiReal
15-01-2007, 09:03 PM
where does the end of the swaybar on this civic connect to? direct to the LCA? at least on the endlinks, they can rotate and pivot

yfin
15-01-2007, 09:06 PM
where does the end of the swaybar on this civic connect to? direct to the LCA? at least on the endlinks, they can rotate and pivot

Someone on a yank forum told me the Civics connect to the subframe rather than end links. It could be total crap - that is why I ask the question. He was going on about how the Euro/TSX (same design as this accord) is less likely to tear a subframe because of the design and that you will break a link before the frame. Pffft.. Internet mechanics aye.

SiReal
15-01-2007, 09:21 PM
I dont have a clue. But as far as i'm concerned, it should be ok. ppl in the states are running even thicker ones.

this is probably considered a 'mild' upgrade in teh eyes of whiteline and more importantly a 'street' upgrade, so it shouldn't be tearing or snapping anything anytime soon. i hope.

atlas
15-01-2007, 10:38 PM
heh nice work jeffrey sampai... care to do my car next? haha

Sensei
15-01-2007, 11:44 PM
Awesome, another quality DIY from Jeff-sama!

roar
16-01-2007, 10:43 PM
ppl with civics or other cars where the sway bar connects via subframe

DO NOT HAVE YOUR CAR ON RAMPS when removing the bolt that is holding your LCA to your subframe

i made this mistake, and was centimetres away from getting knocked the f@ck out by the LCA with weight...


for cars with subframe/lca connection...
remove and install using jack stands with no weight on the rear wheels

then to tighten and torque as required...use ramps

bennjamin
17-01-2007, 07:38 AM
ppl with civics or other cars where the sway bar connects via subframe

DO NOT HAVE YOUR CAR ON RAMPS when removing the bolt that is holding your LCA to your subframe

i made this mistake, and was centimetres away from getting knocked the f@ck out by the LCA with weight...


for cars with subframe/lca connection...
remove and install using jack stands with no weight on the rear wheels

then to tighten and torque as required...use ramps



100%.

The only way to do it properly is by taking EVERYTHING off and installing step by step. Get everything on "loose" , then slowly tighten it all up.
TIGHTEN 100% when on ground height ( to set the bushes in at the correct level otherwise they will prematurely wear)

SiReal
17-01-2007, 08:22 AM
Thanks roar and Ben for that insight. I knew about the tighten at normal ride height rule, however my car looked very normal ride up on the ramps. i'm sure it should be ok. i'll be doing another re-torque to make sure its all ok in about a weeks time.

edit: first page updated.

roar
19-01-2007, 02:49 AM
one way i've found that is cool

when your car is jacked up
the LCA has no load upon it so this is when its perfect to remove LCA bolts, install mounting kit, generall get your swaybar on loose

the hard thing to do in this case is to install the u-bolts that secure in the bushes to the subframe mounts

this can be solved by also jacking up the LCA's so that the bush saddles align to the holes in the mounts (i know its hard to imagine without pictures)

this will make your job much easier and will mean that you torque to the correct torque

this is good for ppl who can't fit under their lowered cars (esp me as i'm a fat****)

SiReal
19-01-2007, 07:54 AM
good advice :thumbsup: but this does not apply to our accord and probably most other accords, only civics and integras, as our swaybars are connected differently. Still good for others to be aware of. HI FIVE!

STIGT
16-02-2007, 11:33 AM
Well done jeff.. Nice DIY!!


Your car should be quick now in the corners....

hondaracerboy
01-03-2007, 03:26 PM
great write up, well done.
i have just ordered a whiteline sway bar for my civic and i am sure this DIY will help me out!!!
Just wondering, what type of grease did you use or can i use???

SiReal
01-03-2007, 03:37 PM
Hey hondaracerboy. I hope you've been reading up on the issues re subframe tearout on the civics and aftermarket sway bars. If not, check out the "WOE is me.." thread in teh civic forum.

The installation on the accord and civic is different. For the civic, the sway bolts into the LCA. whereas, my one goes into endlinks. In the case of hte LCA, you will have to have the rear of the car OFF the ground, and on jackstands (for safety), because u will need to undo the LCA bolts, in order to get the sway put in.

Reason why the car off the ground is so the LCA doesnt smack down into your face from the weight of the car sitting on the ground. kinda hard to explain but have a read through all of the posts made by benjammen and roar ;)

edit: whiteline supplied grease so i just used theirs. Some say, castrol grease is good too. so liong as its greased up, and regularly greased up :thumbsup:

hondaracerboy
01-03-2007, 03:58 PM
cheers mate.