Gday guys what motor oil is everyone using?

[crx51]

Gday guys as the title says im wondering what oils everyone uses in there crxs? And civics. I ask because id like to use a premium oil but have heard of quite a few cars that dont like mobil one etc (eg holden ls1's). Love to hear what you are using.

[EG30]

In My EGSi with a 200,000Kms ZC engine like the AUDM CRX I used to use Castrol R/Edge 5W30 and that used to use about 0.75L of oil between oil change ( 5000km ). I now use Shell Helix 5W/40 and it uses less than 0.5L over a longer service interval ( 7500Km ).

Just try different brands and grades for yourself and see what works for you. It's much better to use good quality, non exotic oils and change it ( and oil filter ) regularly at say 5000km and to use $$$ 0W/40 or the exotic Amsoil and redline type of oil and have extended drain periods of x0,000kms.

The 10W30 grade is a good starting point, and there are no dud ones out there in this grade. Valvoline tends to be the cheapest of the big brands at $27.50?5L, the Nulon and Pennzoil are closer to the $30 mark, the Shell ECO 10 is about $38, and the Honda FEO about $30-40 at dealers.

I use the Valvoline 10W-30 in my ED GL sdn, Castrol Edge 5W30 in our DC2R, Castrol Edge 0W40 in my C36 AMG, Valvoline XLD engine armour 15W40 for my VR Com-mode V6 and Castrol Edge 10W60 for my BMW 2002 historic racecar. Some of the choices were no brainers and some of them took me a few oil changes over a period of a year or two to work out which oil worked best judged by its deterioration by sight and by oil analysis results and its effects of fuel economy and throttle response.

[roar]

not a fan of the castrol edge...
big fan of mobil 1 gold but yes it is $$$

a good one i've been using recently is fuchs 10w30

[crx51]

Thanks for your input guys, very informative. What does everyone else on the forum tend to use??

[bennjamin]

Honda FEO 10-30w can be used on all honda's. Its good stuff which you change every 5,000ks anyway. Cant complain here.

[Drew]

I've been running Fuchs 10w30 just from a convenience point of view; it being readily available all hours of the day and night and being relatively cheap too

These days I'd be more likely to run Elf or Pennzoil depending whats going to be on tap ;)

Why fork out $60 for oil when you can get virtually the same if not better stuff for less than $2.50/L

[mrwillz]

not a fan of the castrol edge...
big fan of mobil 1 gold but yes it is $$$

a good one i've been using recently is fuchs 10w30

me 2
65buxish for 5L

[dc2dc2dc2]

Coles motoroil ftw!

[0098]

so you really dont have to use genuine honda oil like it says lol

mobil 1 gold ay..

[aaronng]

Do a search. If you change every 5000km, then Honda FEO. If you change it every 10,000km/6 months, then go for a synthetic. I use Castrol Edge 5w-30 and 0w-40.

[EG5[KRT]]

ive been trying a few diff ones

motul 300v 10 40

caltex havoline full synth

and mobil1 super synth

i think motul would have to be the better oil but it just dpends on how much money u wanna spend

but honda feo ftw :P if ur pov :P

[roar]

in terms of fluids...

motor oil - don't have to use genuine...there are alot of good alternatives to suit any need

brake fluid - for a daily car, honda stuff is great, for trackwork etc go for something better like motul

radiator fluid - honda or an aftermarket...tho make sure you pick your aftermarket coolant very carefully...its easier just to use hondas

gearbox fluid - honda MTF only (for manuls...no idea for autos)...i don't trust aftermarket

filters wise...if you change them regularly, an aftermarket filter will do fine

[G_Vtec]

Motul Turbolite 10-40 for daily use

Motul 300V when doing track work

[thebob]

I run Royal Purple, Its like $80 for 4L. Seems good.

[hyrpm]

for a old engine like your crx i wouldn,t use an oil too light as the engine would be old and worn say a 10w-40 or even 20w-50 and i wouldn, be using full synthetic oil in it either

[aaronng]

Motul Turbolite 10-40 for daily use

Motul 300V when doing track work
Depends on the car. If it was a worked B or K series, then yes, use expensive fluids. For an engine with stock compression, cam timing and such, even a cheap synthetic like Castrol Edge is more than enough for track.

[aaronng]

For his 89, I'd use between 10w-40 and 15w-50 (D-series)

[silver_screen]

im with castrol formula R 25W/50 runs great, doesnt burn oil engines quite and it sure as hell does it's job!!

Car gets thrashed every single day

[civic_99]

depends on how old the engine is really.
atm im only using castrol magnatec

[crx51]

Thanks very much for all the insight guys. I ended up with Pennzoil semi sync 10w-50. Seems nice and smooth and quiet and i put in a good purolator oil filter too. Ill be getting it all changed in a couple of weeks when i get it serviced anyway! Thanks everyone for your help

[0098]

radiator fluid - honda or an aftermarket...tho make sure you pick your aftermarket coolant very carefully...its easier just to use hondas

**** i just used some coolant i found in my garage
after a hard drive i found the level has risen over 'max', normal or not?

[aaronng]

**** i just used some coolant i found in my garage
after a hard drive i found the level has risen over 'max', normal or not?
Check the bottle to see if it uses silicates or if it uses an organic corrosion inhibitor. Hondas should use coolants with organic inhibitors.

[roar]

and its okay if the resoivoir reaches over max

[0098]

Check the bottle to see if it uses silicates or if it uses an organic corrosion inhibitor. Hondas should use coolants with organic inhibitors.

doesnt mention either..

[aaronng]

doesnt mention either..

Could you post the brand and coolant name? I'll see if there is info online.

[HanifB16A2]

I'm using Repsol elite comp 5W40 eng oil, works a treat.

My car does not see the track often, but gets driven very hard none the less. I personally don't go for the really expensive stuff and always do a change every 5k kms.

[aaronng]

I'm using Repsol elite comp 5W40 eng oil, works a treat.

My car does not see the track often, but gets driven very hard none the less. I personally don't go for the really expensive stuff and always do a change every 5k kms.
How much is the Repsol oil? If you don't mind me asking.

[0098]

Could you post the brand and coolant name? I'll see if there is info online.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=ll

'Performance of organic acid based inhibitors does not diminish with time'

seems crappy made for fords and holdens, you think its ok for a honda?
it says guarenteed for all vehicles 4,6,8 cylinder..

[aaronng]

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=ll

'Performance of organic acid based inhibitors does not diminish with time'

seems crappy made for fords and holdens, you think its ok for a honda?
it says guarenteed for all vehicles 4,6,8 cylinder..

From the page, "Nulon Long Life Coolant is a low silicate formulation". So it still has silicates and therefore it is a no-no. Get a bottle of Honda Type 2 coolant. Flush out the existing coolant and then refill with the Honda one. Anyway, the Nulon coolant is still better than having no coolant. :p

[0098]

how come its a no no if it has silicates?
what does that do/what does that mean? compared to the other type you mentioned..

thanks for the info

[aaronng]

how come its a no no if it has silicates?
what does that do/what does that mean? compared to the other type you mentioned..

thanks for the info

Honda uses an alloy in the water pump that tends to attract the silicates which deposit as a gritty substance. Gritty substance + pump assembly = wear.

[HanifB16A2]

How much is the Repsol oil? If you don't mind me asking.

did a bulk order with a mate, ended up being about 60bucks for 5L

[aaronng]

did a bulk order with a mate, ended up being about 60bucks for 5L

Damn that's cheap. Cheaper than Castrol Edge 0w-40 (and muuuuuch better too)

[XB-16-AX]

i tried Motul 300v Le'Mans cost like $25 a litre - very slick and smooth!!!

then now im just using Motul 300v as it seems to be cost effective! and the engine loves it!! vteccin no worries!!

[aaronng]

i tried Motul 300v Le'Mans cost like $25 a litre - very slick and smooth!!!

then now im just using Motul 300v as it seems to be cost effective! and the engine loves it!! vteccin no worries!!

Hmm, as much as I like Motul.... none of the 300V range is cost effective :p

It is very good though!

[dupac->]

honda feo

[Jarkz]

I use FUCHS and agree with the other FUCHS users.

[defect]

what does everyone recommend for a turbo d series?
been rebuilt but probably has had a very hard life.
done about 60,000kms and runs alot of boost every day
something thick so it doesnt burn?

[Vidospace]

GTX Magnetic. I have been using it in every car I have owned for the past 5 years too. Never had any issues.

[EK4R]

how good is mobile 1 i heard it might not be compatible for hondas? and also how can i tell if the engine is burning oil ?

lost of oil after a drive? fresh oil turning black ?

[aaronng]

how good is mobile 1 i heard it might not be compatible for hondas? and also how can i tell if the engine is burning oil ?

lost of oil after a drive? fresh oil turning black ?

It's not a matter of which brand is good. You have to use the CORRECT VISCOSITY. So Mobil 1 10w-30 (in the gold bottle) is good for B and D, while Mobil 1 5w-50 (silver bottle) is better for the older F series in the CD Accords.

Burns oil if your exhaust smoke is blue when you accelerate. Or when your oil level drops from max to min over a few weeks. If you lose 1 or 2 litres of oil in 1 week (say 300km worth of driving), it's more of a leak rather than burn.

[EK4R]

It's not a matter of which brand is good. You have to use the CORRECT VISCOSITY. So Mobil 1 10w-30 (in the gold bottle) is good for B and D, while Mobil 1 5w-50 (silver bottle) is better for the older F series in the CD Accords.

Burns oil if your exhaust smoke is blue when you accelerate. Or when your oil level drops from max to min over a few weeks. If you lose 1 or 2 litres of oil in 1 week (say 300km worth of driving), it's more of a leak rather than burn.

well if the engine was burning oil, should i be using a thicker oil? and should i be using full sync or semi. my friend is changing his oil and i think he told me his engine is burning oil. he used to use 5w40. i told him maybe try 5w50 (mobil 1 silver bottle) or 10w50. dnt really see a big difference with the 1st number.

[aaronng]

well if the engine was burning oil, should i be using a thicker oil? and should i be using full sync or semi. my friend is changing his oil and i think he told me his engine is burning oil. he used to use 5w40. i told him maybe try 5w50 (mobil 1 silver bottle) or 10w50. dnt really see a big difference with the 1st number.

If the engine was burning oil, first find out if you have excessive blowby past the rings, or if it was just the PCV valve spring that was weakened.

You can use full synthetic, semi or mineral, up to you. The difference is that full synthetic can withstand higher temperatures and pressures better, so in the long run, there will be less gumming of the oil. Also, the full synthetic's viscosity won't decrease as much as a mineral towards the end of the service interval.

What engine does he have? If it is a B/D/K/F20C series and burning oil with a 5w-40, it probably has blowby. Going up to 5w-50 or 10w-50 is only a bandaid solution at best and won't properly solve the oil burning problem.

For our climate, you won't see a difference between 5w and 10w. Use either. 0w is the same viscosity as 5w, but it will flow up to 10 ºC lower than 5w.

[EK4R]

blowby? he has a b series in his car. and where is the PVC? can himself fix the problem?

think he is getting a compression test done in the coming week.

[Civic Type R]

George, use 10w40 full synthetic.
It used to cost me $50 ish per 4.1l or so.

[EK4R]

George, use 10w40 full synthetic.
It used to cost me $50 ish per 4.1l or so.

na its not me. im using motul. was just wondering wat his car problem is so i he can sort it out and i can learn something :)

[crx51]

Gday guys i ended up with some penrite oil. Now i think ive been misinformed about the second figure in the rating as i was given 10w50 for a 89crx. They said that the ten is the only figure to worry about and second is superfluous.. Now ive put it in and car runs super smooth and quiet but is quite docil and has nowhere near the response it had. Feels kinda like airconditioning is on!! Now dads told me 50 is way too viscous so im back again to find the right oil guys. Would a 5-30 or 10-30 be alright for my car. I want it to be quicker again!!! Thanks for your help

[aaronng]

Gday guys i ended up with some penrite oil. Now i think ive been misinformed about the second figure in the rating as i was given 10w50 for a 89crx. They said that the ten is the only figure to worry about and second is superfluous.. Now ive put it in and car runs super smooth and quiet but is quite docil and has nowhere near the response it had. Feels kinda like airconditioning is on!! Now dads told me 50 is way too viscous so im back again to find the right oil guys. Would a 5-30 or 10-30 be alright for my car. I want it to be quicker again!!! Thanks for your help

For an 89 CRX, it will run ok on 10w-50. Don't worry. CHange it to 10w-40 if you want at your next oil change. And it's the 2nd number that is important as that is the viscosity when the engine is at running temperature (100 ºC). The 1st number is important if you live in a cold climate that sees below -18 ºC during winter.

[flipstar]

hey guys i jus put in pennzoil full syn in a silver bottle and the car is running very smooth its 5w40 not to sure on what that means lol but it does seem as if my vtec is alot louder then b4 lol does anyone know whats going on??

[Sexc86]

Mobil 1 5w50 or 0w50, change every 5000

[vertex_s15]

In my opinion,

N/A performance cars relatively new should use fully synthetic in grade of 10w30 or 5w30, u can use 10w40 aso being a good all around oil.

For turbo cars, 10w40 is ok or most use 5w50 such as mobil 1

non performance cars but new doesnt NEED fully synthetic, can prob run them on semi synthetic for cost effective.

I prefered to always used fully synthetic oils best for engines as well as u can use them longer before they break down. At the end of the day just depends how much u want to spend, theres oils out there for everyones budget and needs, and viscousity.

[mugen24]

yeah, i am thinking to use the mobile 1 (10w30) ones this time as i have tried motul 300v racing on my another car b4.i think motul is good at the performance and mobile 1 might be better on the life last in the motor.

[Shimian]

noob q. For a civic sport 06. What would be the optimum oil to use if i service my car every 10,000km? Would it be possible to get my own oil, take it to a honda dealer and ask them to use my oil instead of theirs and take the honda oil bottle home?

[flipstar]

yea you can tell em that your taking your own oil and and let them know depends realli on your budget and how often your service intervals are if they are 5000kms or 10 000 kms if you wish to go 4 10 000kms service intervals you should use a full syn motor oil or semi syn if your going 4 5000km service intervals jus use honda's motor oil it does the job well lol or if you want go for castrol R if you wanna go hardcore:P:P

[mugen24]

if i go 4 10 000kms service and using a full syn engine oil.....how about other staffs like oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs? do i have to use anything better than the normal 5,000kms ones?

[flipstar]

i know that there are a few oil filters that can last up to 15 000 kms but its not reccommended lol if your service intervals are at 5000kms dw bout buyN anything that is up there like (e.g NGK platnium laser sparkies) cause your jus spending the extra money for nothing really only buy longer lasting items if your services are more spread apart from each other jus to avoid wear on the car

[mugen24]

what oil filter should i use if i want to service every 10,000kms

[aimre]

Magnatec

[aimre]

what oil filter should i use if i want to service every 10,000kms

Generic, what ever you find at repco

[Shimian]

They change ur spark plugs everytime u take ur car in for service? I thought they only do it if it requires changing? Anways, like i said above, I service my car every 10,000km. What are the things I need? Again, im a noob to this. So far I have gathered you need: engine oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs. Im already using KN panel filter. So for the rest, what would be the best for my car? $$$ is not an issue. If I go ahead by providing with all these parts, will honda give me the new ones in return? Or do they have a different charge for not using their materials? Usually they charge around $200 to do a service, so maybe less for just labor?

If someone could list brands for the following (optimum):
engine:
oil filter:
spark:

[flipstar]

for motor oil use sumthing thats full syn 0W-50 maybe using pennzoil or repsol elite (i think its called) for your oil filter use a KnN oil filter and sparkies you can use NGK platnium laser sparkies all very top items but it might be hard to find the KnN oil filter so just using a valvoline 1 will also be fine

[Shimian]

Thanks for the info. So how long would a K&N oil filter and NGK platnium laser sparkies last? Do I have to change it every 10,000km? Are these products available at autobarn/repco/supercheap? Also, what about the oil drain plug? Ive heard there are some that are magnetic so it attracts the particles to it making the oil a little bit cleaner? Is there a high end part for this or they all do the same thing?
In regards to engine oil, i read somewhere that you need to change viscosity levels when our season changes.

Lol, just called honda service. For them to use your own materials (engine oil and oil filter), it will only be around $50 less than the normal service. But then again, ur probably using much much better engine oil and oil filter if u buy ur own.

Ok, so now ive decided to use the following materials for my next 10,000km service which too is 10,000km on my reading.
Motul 300V Power Racing 5W30, KN Oil Filter, NGK Iridium & Platinum spark plugs. Any difference compared to the stock ones provided by Honda? I read that my car already has NGK Iridium spark plugs.

[flipstar]

onli difference is that the motor oil you are going to use is going to provide better protection for your car and the oil filter is more durable so that it is easier to last up to 15 000kms but still dont try and keep it for 15000kms lol just have it changed every 10 000 kms with every service

[sendok]

i believe motul is good for track use.. for daily i use mobil1 or castrol magnatec just for trying.. :D

[dsp26]

I use Neo Gold 10w30 which can only be purchased in Australia through here:
http://www.gccorp.com.au/automotive/index.php?cPath=54_57

Race proven and very beneficial for VTEC in that unlike other oils, it has a lifespan of ~25,000KMs... i know everyone is going to say you change at 5000KMs which is fine but think of it this way... unlike other oils, this oil does not lose viscosity nor does it get pressure drop anywhere as quick as regular oils... I change it at 10,000-15,000KM intervals.

Oil pressure is very important for the hydraulic operation of vtec.

I only change the filter every 5,000Kms and top up a bit... but at the same time i only use the PureOne purolator filters with anti drain back valve. That way theres a bit of oil already in the head which is always good for cold start instead of waiting for pressure build up from the block....

If anyone wants lab test results i can post up a thread from my kind friends at the Pulsar Group of Australia who performed lubrication and seizure tests of various oils....

[dsp26]

^^^being a very expensive oil.. i don't suggest anyone with oil leaks use this obviously as you keep having to top up.

Most common leak spots for us is the front Crank and Cam seal....

may i also add that after one fill of this, if you pull apart your engine after using this i guarantee your engine will look as good as new... very good cleanser also...

[marty]

you dont need to replace plugs every service.Cheap oil filters normally have larger micron filtration and dodgy anti drain valves.
Use genuine filters.No point using top oil and crap filter.Waste of time using magnetic plug.Got metal? Got problems!

[chunky]

me/family use castrol magnitec
with the stock toyota filter :D

[dsp26]

you dont need to replace plugs every service.Cheap oil filters normally have larger micron filtration and dodgy anti drain valves.
Use genuine filters.No point using top oil and crap filter.Waste of time using magnetic plug.Got metal? Got problems!

factory copper plugs are meant to be replaced every service as they don't have a lifespan of much more than 10,000Kms.. getting it to 20,000 is pushing it and would affect economy & performance as it is harder to spark due to electrode corrosion

I agree in most cases genuine filters are best. PureOne Purolator filters however are pretty damn good compared to those "most cases" and actually exceed them in filtration.

Magnetic Plugs are a rice item for most as they don't know what it's for... your probably asking yourselves why you'd need one in an alloy engine where their not magnetic. Well you see, camshafts are are not alloy and made of billet steel... so what happens when someone installs new camshafts? you will get shavings as it is natural to wear off the lobes... Don't got metal? Got Problems!!!

What about the magnetic plugs for gearboxes? installed new/custom gearsets or lsd? then you need one of these!!

[marty]

factory copper plugs are meant to be replaced every service as they don't have a lifespan of much more than 10,000Kms.. getting it to 20,000 is pushing it and would affect economy & performance as it is harder to spark due to electrode corrosion

I agree in most cases genuine filters are best. PureOne Purolator filters however are pretty damn good compared to those "most cases" and actually exceed them in filtration.

Magnetic Plugs are a rice item for most as they don't know what it's for... your probably asking yourselves why you'd need one in an alloy engine where their not magnetic. Well you see, camshafts are are not alloy and made of billet steel... so what happens when someone installs new camshafts? you will get shavings as it is natural to wear off the lobes... Don't got metal? Got Problems!!!

What about the magnetic plugs for gearboxes? installed new/custom gearsets or lsd? then you need one of these!!

When i said plugs dont need replacing every service ,i meant spark plugs not sump plug washer.I replace my sump washer every time ,But in 30 years of car /bike workshops have never seen one 'wear out' or have a life span?
They compress slightly under tension,and expand and contract slightly after assembly.If you didnt remove it for 200 000kms it would be fine."Not recommended'. I disagree with cams getting 'shavings' coming off naturally.
I still work at a motorcycle dealership.High mileage cams should more or less look / measure like new,Apart from new linish marks from running in.
Metal in sump or on magnetic plug, new engine parts or not, is abnormal and not desirable.Got metal ,Gunna have problems!

[dsp26]

When i said plugs dont need replacing every service ,i meant spark plugs not sump plug washer.I replace my sump washer every time ,But in 30 years of car /bike workshops have never seen one 'wear out' or have a life span?
They compress slightly under tension,and expand and contract slightly after assembly.If you didnt remove it for 200 000kms it would be fine."Not recommended'. I disagree with cams getting 'shavings' coming off naturally.
I still work at a motorcycle dealership.High mileage cams should more or less look / measure like new,Apart from new linish marks from running in.
Metal in sump or on magnetic plug, new engine parts or not, is abnormal and not desirable.Got metal ,Gunna have problems!
i know your your talking about spark plugs.... the standard ones from factory are copper electrode on all but the newest cars and euros which have platinum to begin with.

try the magnetic sump plug you'll be surprised... having opened up a few nissans and toyota motors for part/performance part changes you'll find the factory cams naturally get lobe wear... look at the ones for sale in the for sale section. Hondas having higher revving motors i guarantee will be more prone to the lobe wear...

not trying to undermine you since you work in a motorbike delearship (wether your a service person or salesperson) but have you ever worked on an a car engine since you sound so adamant?

[marty]

i know your your talking about spark plugs.... the standard ones from factory are copper electrode on all but the newest cars and euros which have platinum to begin with.

try the magnetic sump plug you'll be surprised... having opened up a few nissans and toyota motors for part/performance part changes you'll find the factory cams naturally get lobe wear... look at the ones for sale in the for sale section. Hondas having higher revving motors i guarantee will be more prone to the lobe wear...

not trying to undermine you since you work in a motorbike delearship (wether your a service person or salesperson) but have you ever worked on an a car engine since you sound so adamant?

Work in service dept and worked with jap and euro cars before jap and euro bikes.The only time ive seen abnormal lobe wear is over tensioning alloy cam caps,which deforms cap and gives improper clearance / oil pressure loss.
Also worn valve springs /incorrect preload/spring length causing early / mild valve bounce ,which is most times un noticable but causes the valve bucket to chatter....wear cam lobe.Similar if wrong springs / valve type or weight used with particular cams. Worn cam chains in honda or any bike / car engine causes 'lobe whip'.The tension remains on the drive side of the worn chain while the lobe is opening the valve.When max opening is achieved the chain is in its slack period as less tension on drive side.Crank keeps turning to take up slack and start cam lobe moving again and a much increased lobe speed happens.Really hammers cam lobes.Sorry i didnt mean to come across to adamant, but ive never seen something wear whth out reason.You are correct i havnt done much car work ,apart from my own for about 4/5 years.
Honda car engines are so much like bike engines,its great to see simularities.
Around 180 hp /litre !!!If they only built car engines to the same specs!
Spose formula 1 they do....

[Limbo]

I've used quite a few oils, but currently using the Castrol Edge 5-30w.
I've found it depends on the engine which oil to use, some cars just have a different taste for the oil. I generally like to use a synthetic blend, but i have used the Honda FEO, which is not bad. I find the synthetic ones run smoother and you can hear it in the engine. Mobil1 5-30 gold is good but bloody expensive.

Noted there have been alot of different oils lately, so was gonna try the fuchs, but wasn't sure if it was any good. ALso anyone know if the new valvoline range is any good? The nulon oils seemed ok also

I usually change my oil with oil filter, read in a hot4s that there is still alot of metal pieces in cars later in life and that a new oil filter is always good. I've always used OEM oil filters as they seem to be better quality or the K&N ones.

[lil_miss_vtec]

I use Castrol GTX3 15w40 in my B16a Gen3 and it seems to be fine.

I have a bottle of Genuine Honda FEO 10w30 at home but I dont want to use it in my B16a as I think it might be to thin - Is it ok to use?

[lil_miss_vtec]

I few times when I have changed my oil and have ran it though the strainer thingy in the funnel I use and it is interesting how much gunk is in the oil.... :( i dont know if that is normal for there to be stuff in the oil like that??

[e240]

I few times when I have changed my oil and have ran it though the strainer thingy in the funnel I use and it is interesting how much gunk is in the oil.... :( i dont know if that is normal for there to be stuff in the oil like that??

There shouldn't be gunk in new oil...

[aaronng]

I few times when I have changed my oil and have ran it though the strainer thingy in the funnel I use and it is interesting how much gunk is in the oil.... :( i dont know if that is normal for there to be stuff in the oil like that??

I really don't like GTX3. BTW, you can use FEO 10w-30. It is not too thin for your engine. In fact, GTX3's 15w-40 is thicker than what is specified for the b16a, but it is still at the limits.

[DLO01]

I use Honda FEO and would recomend that to anyone with genuine filter.

Now I am using Royal Purple 10W40 for when my turbo setup is installed.

:thumbsup:

[SLOWEGG]

Im gonna give that a try next. I just started using motul turbolight on my turbo setup.

[lil_miss_vtec]

When I put the oil though the strainer it was the old oil with gunk in it
:)

[aaronng]

When I put the oil though the strainer it was the old oil with gunk in it
:)

Ahhh, that's right. GTX3 doesn't like heat. Why don't you use FEO instead? It's just as cheap, good and will withstand heat better than GTX3. If you want a 30 weight oil, then Castrol Magnatex 10w-40 is good for a mineral oil in that price range.

[gbang007]

so the older the car, generally the higher viscosity oil? because i have an ek1, 1996 build with about 190,000km, with no engine mods, pretty much stock except for lowering etc but nothing that should affect the oil, i am using 20-50. Is that about the right viscosity?

[dsp26]

so the older the car, generally the higher viscosity oil? because i have an ek1, 1996 build with about 190,000km, with no engine mods, pretty much stock except for lowering etc but nothing that should affect the oil, i am using 20-50. Is that about the right viscosity?

damn thats thick.... going from that to 10w40 or 10w30 would give noticable gains in response.....

can someone explain to me why mechanics always recommend that "the older the car, generally the higher viscosity oil?"

the only thing i can think of is that thick oil leaks less.. produces gunkier stuff that blocks cavities that would otherwise leak?

[lil_miss_vtec]

Ok - so for a B16a with 115000kms what is the best oil, around the same price as GTX3? (I dont mind spending a little bit more)

Like I said I use Castrol GTX3 15w40 at the moment, but now I am wondering if I should be using something a bit thinner!? :confused:

Also I always change my filter when I change oil - I dont see the point in not changing the filter...

[czy_sol87]

^^use the FEO that u've got, thats the stuff i use on my crx, and i find its pretty good, for the price
i use a new filter as well on every oil change

[aaronng]

Ok - so for a B16a with 115000kms what is the best oil, around the same price as GTX3? (I dont mind spending a little bit more)

Like I said I use Castrol GTX3 15w40 at the moment, but now I am wondering if I should be using something a bit thinner!? :confused:

Also I always change my filter when I change oil - I dont see the point in not changing the filter...

Honda FEO is about $30 for 5L. Castrol Magnatec is about $25-30 for 5L too. Use one of those. If you are willing to spend about $50, then you can also use a synthetic.

[aaronng]

so the older the car, generally the higher viscosity oil? because i have an ek1, 1996 build with about 190,000km, with no engine mods, pretty much stock except for lowering etc but nothing that should affect the oil, i am using 20-50. Is that about the right viscosity?

No, it depends on your engine. Instead of 20w-50, I would have used a 10w-50 instead. If you want to go for a lower viscosity, try 10w-40.

[kikks9]

Hi Ozhonda !!

I own a Civic Sport 2006. It is due for it 10k service and I want to bring my own oil and oil filter. I changed my oil at the 1k service because that was what the service guy recommended and they have put in Castrol Magnatec 10w-30 (it says on my receipt)

I am interested in putting in a full or semi synthetic oil. Will Castrol Edge 5w-30 or Penrite HPR 10 which is 10w-50 be suitable ? I have had a look at the mobil 1 10w-30 but it is $83 :eek: :eek:

Any help, suggestion or recommendation on a good oil will be much appreciated, my budget is about $50.

I have done a search on the purolator site and I think I will be getting their oil filter. it makes sense having a good oil filter heheh

Thanks again for any help and suggestions :wave: :D

[jdm_kid]

ELF & FEO ftw for me !

[aaronng]

Hi Ozhonda !!

I own a Civic Sport 2006. It is due for it 10k service and I want to bring my own oil and oil filter. I changed my oil at the 1k service because that was what the service guy recommended and they have put in Castrol Magnatec 10w-30 (it says on my receipt)

I am interested in putting in a full or semi synthetic oil. Will Castrol Edge 5w-30 or Penrite HPR 10 which is 10w-50 be suitable ? I have had a look at the mobil 1 10w-30 but it is $83 :eek: :eek:

Any help, suggestion or recommendation on a good oil will be much appreciated, my budget is about $50.

I have done a search on the purolator site and I think I will be getting their oil filter. it makes sense having a good oil filter heheh

Thanks again for any help and suggestions :wave: :D

Edge 5w-30 is fine. Don't use HPR 10, it's too thick. If you service every 6 months, Edge 5w-30 is more than enough.

[kikks9]

Thanks aaron. It is good to hear that. I wanted to put something a little better because of the reasons below.

I just spoke to a mate of mine. he said that i should not service my car using the km. I am doing that now, I have just reached 10k service and I am bringing the civic in for it's second service. My mate told me that i should service it 6 months or 10k whichever comes first. I am confused because I thought most people go by KM's ..... and the service people have not told me otherwise. I dont drive alot, it took me almost a year to clock up 10k. If i do it every 6 months wow, i think i will be wasting my money because i only drive so little.

What do you all of you think ?



Edge 5w-30 is fine. Don't use HPR 10, it's too thick. If you service every 6 months, Edge 5w-30 is more than enough.

[aaronng]

Thanks aaron. It is good to hear that. I wanted to put something a little better because of the reasons below.

I just spoke to a mate of mine. he said that i should not service my car using the km. I am doing that now, I have just reached 10k service and I am bringing the civic in for it's second service. My mate told me that i should service it 6 months or 10k whichever comes first. I am confused because I thought most people go by KM's ..... and the service people have not told me otherwise. I dont drive alot, it took me almost a year to clock up 10k. If i do it every 6 months wow, i think i will be wasting my money because i only drive so little.

What do you all of you think ?
If you do many short journeys, don't follow by kms but do it every 6 months. This is because short journeys don't let the engine oil warm up enough to evaporate any water that mixes with it (water comes from combustion). And as you know, fuel has a little bit of sulphur in it. When sulphur is heated, you get sulfates which interact with the water in your oil, producing sulfuric acid. If you do long journeys once or twice a week and leave your car sitting for the remainder instead, then waiting 1 year won't be so bad.

[e240]

I just switched from Mobil 1 5w-50 to Redline 15w-50
and though redline is a "thicker" oil, the engine simply rev'ed so much easier
than the Mobil 1. The rev's climbed so quickly that I had to pay attention to the revs and even bounced off the rev limiter a couple of times.

Seems like a pretty good oil..

[aaronng]

I just switched from Mobil 1 5w-50 to Redline 15w-50
and though redline is a "thicker" oil, the engine simply rev'ed so much easier
than the Mobil 1. The rev's climbed so quickly that I had to pay attention to the revs and even bounced off the rev limiter a couple of times.

Seems like a pretty good oil..

It could be that the Redline is not as stable as Mobil1 and still reduces in viscosity at higher temperatures. So at 100ºC, it could be slightly thinner at 40 or 45 viscosity.

The 15w means that it is thicker at -18ºC. I doubt that you'll be able to notice it since it is still about 10ºC in the mornings.

[kikks9]

ehehe, aaron, i dont drive alot, not many short trips or long trips. sometimes i dont drive for 2 days.

i live and work in the city but that could change very soon :) :)

thanks for the advice though. out of all the people, you made the most sense ahahah.

i bought the castrol edge 5w-30 but not the pureone filter. i think i will just go with the generic honda oil filter :) service has been booked :) can't wait for them to fix my warranty issue as well ehehhe...

btw how will you know that your oil is operating at optimum temperature? i usually wait in the car until the temperature goes up to 2 or 3 bars and then only start my journey.


If you do many short journeys, don't follow by kms but do it every 6 months. This is because short journeys don't let the engine oil warm up enough to evaporate any water that mixes with it (water comes from combustion). And as you know, fuel has a little bit of sulphur in it. When sulphur is heated, you get sulfates which interact with the water in your oil, producing sulfuric acid. If you do long journeys once or twice a week and leave your car sitting for the remainder instead, then waiting 1 year won't be so bad.

[aaronng]

ehehe, aaron, i dont drive alot, not many short trips or long trips. sometimes i dont drive for 2 days.

i live and work in the city but that could change very soon :) :)

thanks for the advice though. out of all the people, you made the most sense ahahah.

i bought the castrol edge 5w-30 but not the pureone filter. i think i will just go with the generic honda oil filter :) service has been booked :) can't wait for them to fix my warranty issue as well ehehhe...

btw how will you know that your oil is operating at optimum temperature? i usually wait in the car until the temperature goes up to 2 or 3 bars and then only start my journey.

The Honda oil filter is better than most aftermarket ones out there. I usually let the engine run for 30 seconds to let the oil circulate before I drive off. Then I don't use any heavy throttle and limit revs to 3000rpm until the needle reaches the middle. Then I let it have a little more throttle but no full throttle and no going above 4000rpm until twice the amount of time has passed. I'm just picky. :)

[e240]

It could be that the Redline is not as stable as Mobil1 and still reduces in viscosity at higher temperatures. So at 100ºC, it could be slightly thinner at 40 or 45 viscosity.

The 15w means that it is thicker at -18ºC. I doubt that you'll be able to notice it since it is still about 10ºC in the mornings.

Nah, based on feedback, Redline is a stable and good oil. Its expensive considering that it uses Esthers as base stock.

[Politix]

hey i just started using castrol sport 5w-30 engine oil and can feel that it is much smoother and response faster than my previous engine oil which was magnatec. i've got a 97 ek-1 and heard from my mechanic that mobil 1 is too thin for the car and will just evaporate or something. so yeah castrol sport worth a try

[happyspastic]

i use castrol edge 10w-60 which is heaps expensive :thumbdwn:
but i might be changing to something else when i get my service done

[Shimian]

What would suit a civic sport? 0w30 or 5w30. Synthetic or semi? Too much oil to choose from. I only drive my car over the weekend, maybe like 100-150km in total, so im after something that will protect well but also give performance compared to Honda oil. Any recommendations?

[aaronng]

Nah, based on feedback, Redline is a stable and good oil. Its expensive considering that it uses Esthers as base stock.

Is it an ester based oil? Sorry, I thought it was a normal synthetic. In that case, it would be in the same class as Motul 300V (also ester-based) and of a good base stock.

[aaronng]

i use castrol edge 10w-60 which is heaps expensive :thumbdwn:
but i might be changing to something else when i get my service done

Why are you using 10w-60? Are you having oil consumption problems? You should be running the 5w-30 or 0w-40.

[aaronng]

What would suit a civic sport? 0w30 or 5w30. Synthetic or semi? Too much oil to choose from. I only drive my car over the weekend, maybe like 100-150km in total, so im after something that will protect well but also give performance compared to Honda oil. Any recommendations?

Castrol Edge 5w-30 is good for the price. It's a hydrocracked synthetic, which is halfway between real synthetics and a semi. That's why it's cheaper. If you want a real synthetic, the Edge 0w-40 is alright too (but for the price, I'd rather get Motul 8100 5w-40 X-cess).

[Shimian]

Price is not an issue. I just want some good stuff for my car. Just like going out and buying sushi for dinner :p So you recommend Motul 8100 5w-40 X-cess? I was going to get this other Motul oil but it only comes in 2L bottles and I need 4.5 :eek:

Is there any difference if my car is auto or manual? I have an auto so all oils will perform as good especially the Motul 8100 5w-40 X-cess?

[e240]

Price is not an issue. I just want some good stuff for my car. Just like going out and buying sushi for dinner :p So you recommend Motul 8100 5w-40 X-cess? I was going to get this other Motul oil but it only comes in 2L bottles and I need 4.5 :eek:

Is there any difference if my car is auto or manual? I have an auto so all oils will perform as good especially the Motul 8100 5w-40 X-cess?

No difference whether your car's an Auto or not, for engine oil.

If price is not an issue, I recommend Redline synthetics..about $100++ for 5 litres.

[aaronng]

Price is not an issue. I just want some good stuff for my car. Just like going out and buying sushi for dinner :p So you recommend Motul 8100 5w-40 X-cess? I was going to get this other Motul oil but it only comes in 2L bottles and I need 4.5 :eek:

Is there any difference if my car is auto or manual? I have an auto so all oils will perform as good especially the Motul 8100 5w-40 X-cess?

Motul has the X-cess in 5L for $65. If you want something of the same type as the redline, there is the 300V which is $99 for 4L (so you need 1 more 2L bottle). But no point using an oil of that caliber for a street-driven stock car, unless you are feeling rich.

[DLO01]

Royal Purple

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s01_home/home.asp?dsb=52

:thumbsup:

[Shimian]

Well, the best oil for the car - street driving under $100 for 5L. Motul 300V is good but im not going to buy another 2L bottle for like $40 just to use 0.5L. So other than the X-Cess, any other recommendations?
As I mentioned b4. I drive my car on the weekends only so I want something that will be good for this condition and give a good performance compared to OEM oil

So which is better 5w30 or 5w40 for a 10,000km service?

Thanks heaps

[kikks9]

hey shimian & ozhonda,

Used Castrol Edge 5w-30. Just got the car back from service. Drove from Sth Yarra to the city. how does it perform? ahahah ...i am not a pro driver and am not cluey on these things. It is very very smooth. Good acceleration. I think the engine sounds quieter as well. I noticed that my oil temp gauge does not go up to 1/2 anymore. Will changing the oil to a better one affect this? The temp is one bar off the middle ehhee i hope that is a good things :) maybe engine is running cooler?

For a stock car and $45 bucks ...i think it is just fine.. i think it is a good choice for a normal car for normal driving :) thanks again aaronng..

[kikks9]

oops.... i will use the original oil filter next service. my friend bought me a valvoline filter and the service guy told me might as well use it and not to bother with aftermarket filter the next time..ahhehe oh well live and learn....


The Honda oil filter is better than most aftermarket ones out there. I usually let the engine run for 30 seconds to let the oil circulate before I drive off. Then I don't use any heavy throttle and limit revs to 3000rpm until the needle reaches the middle. Then I let it have a little more throttle but no full throttle and no going above 4000rpm until twice the amount of time has passed. I'm just picky. :)

[aaronng]

oops.... i will use the original oil filter next service. my friend bought me a valvoline filter and the service guy told me might as well use it and not to bother with aftermarket filter the next time..ahhehe oh well live and learn....

If your service guy put it in, then you can blame him for not forcing you to use a Honda OEM filter instead. :) Don't worry, you'll be fine. And remember to check your engine oil level every 2 weeks! Enjoy!

[happyspastic]

Why are you using 10w-60? Are you having oil consumption problems? You should be running the 5w-30 or 0w-40.


it was just recommended by a mechanic at Honda....?
im gonna stick to oem for now on...
noob q - my mate reckons engine oil affects your fuel consumption true or not??

[Shimian]

Cant find the motul xcess oil for sale anywhere and motul 300v power racing is $46 per 2L :eek:
Next best thing i found was Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 or Castrol Edge 5w30. Which one will be the better?

edit : I think ive made my mind up. Ill go with Castrol Edge Sport 5w30. Its cheap and nasty
* for my 10,000km service

[Shimian]

Changed my mind on the engine oil. I went and bought mobil one 10w30 full syn. I want to ask if i need to get my engine flushed because im going from OEM semi syn oil to the mobil one fully syn. If so, what brands do you recommend for flushing the engine. Will Honda flush my engine as part of their service, even if i have to pay extra?

thanks

[Drew]

Unless your oil is really dirty you shouldn't really need to flush it
Especially semi to full synth, going back to semi or mineral you should flush and so with going to/from mineral

I only really use oil flush on dual fuel, diesel and cars with a bad/no service record

[Shimian]

Unless your oil is really dirty you shouldn't really need to flush it
Especially semi to full synth, going back to semi or mineral you should flush and so with going to/from mineral

I only really use oil flush on dual fuel, diesel and cars with a bad/no service record

This is my 10,000km service. Im going from OEM which is semi syn to fully syn mobil one. So do i need to flush it? Sorry, im confused with ur explanation

cheers

[aaronng]

Changed my mind on the engine oil. I went and bought mobil one 10w30 full syn. I want to ask if i need to get my engine flushed because im going from OEM semi syn oil to the mobil one fully syn. If so, what brands do you recommend for flushing the engine. Will Honda flush my engine as part of their service, even if i have to pay extra?

thanks

You're really ripping yourself off. :p You DON'T need to flush your engine. Also, why bother with Mobil 1 10w-30 ($80 for 5L) when Castrol Edge 5w-30 ($50 for 5L) will do a good enough job for your normal driving?

BTW, Motul 8100 5w-40 is sold at Autobarn (and some Repcos).

[aaronng]

This is my 10,000km service. Im going from OEM which is semi syn to fully syn mobil one. So do i need to flush it? Sorry, im confused with ur explanation

cheers

He's saying if your engine runs diesel, dual fuel or is badly neglected does he recommend a flush.

Also, don't think that full synthetic is so different from mineral and semi-synthetic that you need to do an engine flush. Don't be tricked by marketing. They are all oils, just made from using different base stocks. You can just drain and fill up with a different oil. They will mix fine except for one or 2 particular viscosities of ester based oils.

[Shimian]

Thanks for the info. I got mobil one because a few of my mates recommended it. So i thought why not give it a crack. Im not sucked in by the marketing. I wasnt sure whether if i changed from a semi to full syn, i would need to flush the engine out.
Also, will i need to change my oil filter?

LOL, hope this oil will give me some positives or im gonna kick then in the nuts

[aaronng]

Thanks for the info. I got mobil one because a few of my mates recommended it. So i thought why not give it a crack. Im not sucked in by the marketing. I wasnt sure whether if i changed from a semi to full syn, i would need to flush the engine out.
Also, will i need to change my oil filter?

LOL, hope this oil will give me some positives or im gonna kick then in the nuts

Yes, change your oil filter at EVERY oil change, even though the service schedule says to change the filter every 2 oil changes.

You won't feel any difference between Mobil1 10w-30 and Edge 5w-30 on street driving, even if you were thrashing your car. The mobil1 you got is the gold bottled one yeah? At least you got the good one. The one in the silver bottle is cheaper (locally produced) but not the right viscosity for your car.

When you change to Mobil1, listen if your engine sound gets louder.

[Shimian]

yeah its the gold bottle. What does it mean if its louder?

[aaronng]

Just a louder engine noise. Maybe a louder tapping noise. That's from most of the observations from owners of other brands of cars who use Mobil1 (might have been the silver bottle though)

[Shimian]

Then thats a bad thing then. All my mates who tried this oil found their car run a lot quieter than the OEM oil. LOL, and ur saying the opposite thing. Oh well, i guess ill find out next week. If i get TAP TAP TAP sound, ill go back to OEM oil or maybe try Castrol Edge Sport at 20,000km service

[SLOWEGG]

Im using Royal Purple atm, just switched over from turbolight. Engine noise is quieter and runs smoother. It is expensive but just giving it a try :).

[aaronng]

Im using Royal Purple atm, just switched over from turbolight. Engine noise is quieter and runs smoother. It is expensive but just giving it a try :).

4100 Turbolight is a semi-synthetic. It's just a mineral oil with synthetic additives. :) Even Castrol Edge 5w-30 would be better than that.

[SLOWEGG]

4100 Turbolight is a semi-synthetic. It's just a mineral oil with synthetic additives. :) Even Castrol Edge 5w-30 would be better than that.

Thanks for the heads up. What about royal purple? Are they just mineral aswell? I need to run 10-40, just trying out what runs good. Going to try the castrol edge 10-40 next, since dynodave told us to use it.

[aaronng]

Thanks for the heads up. What about royal purple? Are they just mineral aswell? I need to run 10-40, just trying out what runs good. Going to try the castrol edge 10-40 next, since dynodave told us to use it.

Royal Purple is supposed to be made from synthetic base stocks plus their synthetic additive. So I guess that makes it fully synthetic. The Royal Purple XPR range should be better than Castrol Edge 0w-40. Not sure about the normal Royal Purple synthetic oil.

[SLOWEGG]

That royal purple racing range is expensive.. like 160 a bottle. Im just using the normal range. Will give castrol a go.

[JDM80Y]

OEM/FEO all the way! if ur running stock internals...

[Drew]

This is my 10,000km service. Im going from OEM which is semi syn to fully syn mobil one. So do i need to flush it? Sorry, im confused with ur explanation

cheers

Semi -> Full NO
Full -> Semi YES
Mineral ->Semi/Full YES
Semi/Full -> Mineral YES

You do not have to, but a bottle of Nullon oil flush is only $10

[Shimian]

Serviced my car today with Mobil 1 10w30 Fully Syn. Car is very very quiet. If the car didnt have a slight vibration, i would have thought it was turned off. The temperature is slightly lower, about 2 blocks lower than before. I drove it around all day and it remained the same. Thats really all i can tell. I cannot feel any performance increase etc other than the 2 points above. I guess it could be due to the car being serviced? Maybe itll change in a few weeks time