Slipping clutch

[J-TODA]

clutch is on its way out =[ the cars onli done 9000kms ...booking in my service asap was wondering if any of uz guys have had this problem and whether or not honda can claim it under warranty ....so depressing

started off with the creaking of the clutch as common within other euros...however other day noticed the slipping of clutch...and jst now pressure on the gas pedal cause revs to jump almost redline..and dosnet seem like it will catch the gear b4 redline...

any advice or info much appreciated..... :thumbdwn: =[

[aaronng]

clutch is on its way out =[ the cars onli done 9000kms ...booking in my service asap was wondering if any of uz guys have had this problem and whether or not honda can claim it under warranty ....so depressing

started off with the creaking of the clutch as common within other euros...however other day noticed the slipping of clutch...and jst now pressure on the gas pedal cause revs to jump almost redline..and dosnet seem like it will catch the gear b4 redline...

any advice or info much appreciated..... :thumbdwn: =[

When you shift, how long is your foot on the clutch for? If you are on a hill, do you use the clutch to hold the car up instead of using the handbrake? I know of someone with the same problem, but when I saw them shift, they were holding the clutch down for over 1 second. Also, they didn't rev match when downshifting.

[Chris_F]

i have a feeling the faulty master cylinder may have caused premature wear.

I know of some people that drive around as you described aaron and their clutch lasted 100,000km+ for a clutch to go in 9000km you would have to seriously abuse it/not know how to drive a manual or a part must be faulty.

[aaronng]

i have a feeling the faulty master cylinder may have caused premature wear.

I know of some people that drive around as you described aaron and their clutch lasted 100,000km+ for a clutch to go in 9000km you would have to seriously abuse it/not know how to drive a manual or a part must be faulty.
Did they drive an Euro? The OEM clutch material does not have a long life. I learned manual on a Toyota Corona with almost 200,000km on the clock and the clutch didn't give way even though I was slipping it at every hill I came up against.

A faulty master cylinder does not really cause clutch wear. It causes incomplete clutch disengagement and thus a difficult shift.

And the person I was talking about had his clutch wear out in 10,000km.

[Chris_F]

nope the car is a toyota echo.

couldn't incomplete clutch disengagement wear out a clutch? I was always paranoid that the creaking master cylinder problem might be doing more damage than people realise.

Though I agree, driving style is probably more likely. Need some input from the OP


Did they drive an Euro? The OEM clutch material does not have a long life. A faulty master cylinder does not really cause clutch wear. It causes incomplete clutch disengagement and thus a difficult shift.

And the person I was talking about had his clutch wear out in 10,000km.

[aaronng]

nope the car is a toyota echo.

couldn't incomplete clutch disengagement wear out a clutch? I was always paranoid that the creaking master cylinder problem might be doing more damage than people realise.

Though I agree, driving style is probably more likely. Need some input from the OP

My opinion of the Euro's clutch plate is very low... I find that Toyotas tend to have beefier clutch material.

Incomplete clutch disengagement will wear out the clutch if you sit at the lights with your foot on the clutch for long periods.

[yourfather]

dude it has to be driving style

[tony1234]

You'd have to be really hard on the clutch to do it in 9K.Go to dealer and see how you go.What they usually do is replace the pressure plate and you have to pay for clutch plate as the dealer will say this as a consumable item.

[yfin]

any advice or info much appreciated..... :thumbdwn: =[

How long have you been driving manual vehicles before. Have you owned other manual vehicles for a long time without clutch replacement?

[J-TODA]

When you shift, how long is your foot on the clutch for? If you are on a hill, do you use the clutch to hold the car up instead of using the handbrake? I know of someone with the same problem, but when I saw them shift, they were holding the clutch down for over 1 second. Also, they didn't rev match when downshifting.

ye umm as for shifting its a less den second process...however i do jst engine brake instead of heel-toe'n ....and on the hills at times i use the friction point however mainly been using handbrake...so ye...

but umm apparantly euro clutches are worn easily...so id uno...prob will b going performance clutch...

[J-TODA]

How long have you been driving manual vehicles before. Have you owned other manual vehicles for a long time without clutch replacement?

nope first car...but learnt manual on a mates concerto =]...

hmmmmmm..... ye ill book in my service asap...bt friends are recommending to go performance clutch...will this void warranty on gearbox??

[yfin]

but umm apparantly euro clutches are worn easily...so id uno...prob will b going performance clutch...

Not so sure about your coment re Euro clutches wearing easily. Some of us here are over 100k with original clutch. Since 2003 I have heard of 3 cases on this site of clutch problems with the CL9 (including you). And we have hundreds of CL9s on this site now. One owner (who shall remain nameless) admitted to me on PM that he did something stupid to cause his clutch to fail... So it is either a mechanical fault or something you are doing whilst driving. Given it is your first car it would be a good idea to get someone very experienced to watch your manual technique. Good luck with the dealer - I think they will replace it for you.

[jaeyon]

learn to heel toe you gronk lol

[J-TODA]

Not so sure about your coment re Euro clutches wearing easily. Some of us here are over 100k with original clutch. Since 2003 I have heard of 3 cases on this site of clutch problems with the CL9 (including you). And we have hundreds of CL9s on this site now. One owner (who shall remain nameless) admitted to me on PM that he did something stupid to cause his clutch to fail... So it is either a mechanical fault or something you are doing whilst driving. Given it is your first car it would be a good idea to get someone very experienced to watch your manual technique. Good luck with the dealer - I think they will replace it for you.

alright fanx for that...hmmm ye hopefully they will replace it for free LOL..if not prob go aftermarket..

[jaeyon]

you can get an excedy organic for around 1000 installed. this is for an s15 though. stop engine breaking so much :P

ey its me jack if you didnt know. i think you can pick up a clutch for about 600 installed?

[G7G7]

So- if hes going to go through a clutch every 9,000kms- and if its $1k each time to replace (approx).
SELL THE CAR!! BY an Auto!!

That cant be driver fault-
I would insist they inspect and replace at there expense.

[aaronng]

ye umm as for shifting its a less den second process...however i do jst engine brake instead of heel-toe'n ....and on the hills at times i use the friction point however mainly been using handbrake...so ye...
Does this mean you let out the clutch slowly so the RPM rises and slow your car down? Or do you blip the throttle to rev match before releasing clutch? Friction point on a hill is a no-no especially for the Euro. On older Toyotas, the clutch plate just lasted and lasted. I suspect that they had to switch to organic material for environmental reasons, so clutch plates don't last as long anymore.


but umm apparantly euro clutches are worn easily...so id uno...prob will b going performance clutch...
Remember that Exedy HD clutches usually use the same friction material but with only a stronger pressure plate, so you will have the same problem if you continue with your driving style. So you'll have to get something with different material like Exedy organic or higher.

[jaeyon]

he doesn't blip the throttle. rides the clutch to get the revs up and slow the car down from speed. im pretty sure thats why his clutch is gone.

[J-TODA]

you can get an excedy organic for around 1000 installed. this is for an s15 though. stop engine breaking so much :P

ey its me jack if you didnt know. i think you can pick up a clutch for about 600 installed?

lol i know its u...arghh...guessn its my driving style as well...awwww all that money...

[jaeyon]

lol ill get a price on the clutch for you tonight. or you can come pick me up and we go mechanics get my car ask price for clutch, drop your car home then we go kk :D

[J-TODA]

LOL np spamer...giv me a call..farr geezz dam spamer dese days...

mods can close thread...information obtained ..thanx =]

[aaronng]

LOL np spamer...giv me a call..farr geezz dam spamer dese days...

mods can close thread...information obtained ..thanx =]
If you get an organic or button clutch, you'll be forced to learn to rev match as you can't ride the clutch smoothly anymore!

[yfin]

rides the clutch to get the revs up

What exactly does that mean? can you explain that another way?

[aaronng]

What exactly does that mean? can you explain that another way?

Say he's cruising in 5th gear at 2000rpm, and he wants to downshift to 4th to slow down and corner. He presses the clutch in, revs drop to 800rpm, shifts to 4th and then he releases the clutch slowly and the clutch slips and the revs go up to 3000rpm. That slipping accelerates clutch wear.

[yfin]

Say he's cruising in 5th gear at 2000rpm, and he wants to downshift to 4th to slow down and corner. He presses the clutch in, revs drop to 800rpm, shifts to 4th and then he releases the clutch slowly and the clutch slips and the revs go up to 3000rpm. That slipping accelerates clutch wear.

And you can see that causing a clutch to fail in 9000kms? I can accept that might cause a clutch not to last as long as it might - but 9000kms is nothing. I would expect some serious abuse for it to die in 9000kms.

[aaronng]

And you can see that causing a clutch to fail in 9000kms? I can accept that might cause a clutch not to last as long as it might - but 9000kms is nothing. I would expect some serious abuse for it to die in 9000kms.

The Euro's clutch material is insufficient.

The 10,000km example that I mentioned did not even ride the clutch on hills. He just let the clutch out slowly for every upshift that he did and slipped the clutch to engine brake.

BTW, for all the noobs out there, engine braking is meant to be done NOT by letting your clutch out slowly, but by letting go of your accelerator while your gearbox is in a low gear.

[yfin]

The Euro's clutch material is insufficient.

The 10,000km example that I mentioned did not even ride the clutch on hills nor engine brake much. He just let the clutch out slowly for every upshift that he did.

I don't know Aaron - i have been in at least half a dozen situations with my car where I have had the clutch material burn (ie the car stinks for ages) and it still goes ok at 45,000kms. I find it hard to believe that downshifting and a little slip is going to burn it out in 9000kms. There is something more to this.

[aaronng]

I don't know Aaron - i have been in at least half a dozen situations with my car where I have had the clutch material burn (ie the car stinks for ages) and it still goes ok at 45,000kms. I find it hard to believe that downshifting and a little slip is going to burn it out in 9000kms. There is something more to this.

Half a dozen is nothing. These guys are doing it for every upshift and downshift. I think I shift over 40 times per trip, if in the city, maybe 60-70? Imagine doing that everyday. Half a dozen incidents is nothing.

And many of us have the clutch creak, but no worn clutches (yet)

[yfin]

Half a dozen is nothing. These guys are doing it for every upshift and downshift. I think I shift over 40 times per trip, if in the city, maybe 60-70? Imagine doing that everyday. Half a dozen incidents is nothing.

And many of us have the clutch creak, but no worn clutches (yet)

I want to see how this guy drives... :D So you think he slips the clutch really slowly for every change (up and down)? I don't see what the point is in doing that anyway? For at least an upshift you can clutch in and out quickly and still be very smooth.

[aaronng]

I want to see how this guy drives... :D So you think he slips the clutch really slowly for every change (up and down)? I don't see what the point is in doing that anyway? For at least an upshift you can clutch in and out quickly and still be very smooth.

Well, according to jaeyon, who is probably this guy's friend, he was not surprised that the clutch wore out so quick. LOL

And nowadays, driving instructors don't teach students how to drive stick properly... Even back during my time, my instructor told me to slip the clutch when downshifting in to 2nd to slow down before turning! That's so wrong.

[J-TODA]

And many of us have the clutch creak, but no worn clutches (yet)[/QUOTE]

i have the clutch creak as well...still present...ye more and more im convinced its my driving style.. =[

nah i onli do it whilst slowing down..dont get y u do it upshift...ye cuzn jaeyon finks its cause of my *attempt at engine braking* as aaron suggested cause i like do it almost as replacement of braking...and onli use brake pedal..towards end of braking...mayb should b other way arround???

[aaronng]

i have the clutch creak as well...still present...ye more and more im convinced its my driving style.. =[

With more practice, you'll be alright. Just remember to try to minimise the time your foot is on the clutch. And when on hills, use the handbrake to take off. Don't slip the clutch on the hill for over 3 seconds.

[yfin]

i have the clutch creak as well...still present...ye more and more im convinced its my driving style.. =[

When you are driving and not changing gears - any chance you keep your foot resting on the clutch pedal?

[J-TODA]

When you are driving and not changing gears - any chance you keep your foot resting on the clutch pedal?

nop im 100% sure i dont do that... and upshifting is pretty quick...bt ye jaeyon has seen it i engine brake heaps heaps and also at times use the friction point to stay put on small hills etc...

[yfin]

nop im 100% sure i dont do that... and upshifting is pretty quick...bt ye jaeyon has seen it i engine brake heaps heaps and also at times use the friction point to stay put on small hills etc...

Just so to clarify because "engine braking" has a meaning of its own... When you are downshifting for a corner - explain what you do - in particular when you press the accelerator.

In other words, say you are downshifting and you have selected the lower gear. When you let the clutch out (it sounds like you are doing it slowly) when do you apply the gas pedal in that process? Is it when the pedal is fully released or when you are still in the process of releasing the pedal?

[J-TODA]

well i let the clutch out slowly...but acceleration is off completly...den clutch comes off completly...if needed i brake a little...and turn the corner...and den accelerate...so deres use of acceleration pedal whilst using clutch

[yfin]

well i let the clutch out slowly...but acceleration is off completly...den clutch comes off completly...if needed i brake a little...and turn the corner...and den accelerate...so deres use of acceleration pedal whilst using clutch

Alright so far you are doing better than many drivers I see... and what about coming to a stop. Say you are travelling at 80kph in 5th gear. You see the lights ahead change to red. What do you do in terms of gears to come to a stop?

[J-TODA]

run the light =] haha jks

shift to 4th...den 3rd...brake a lil....and den when almost stopd...2nd...brake more and when fully stopped 1st....den either leave in first with clutch in or neutral...

[yfin]

run the light =] haha jks

shift to 4th...den 3rd...brake a lil....and den when almost stopd...2nd...brake more and when fully stopped 1st....den either leave in first with clutch in or neutral...

Ok - what I am about to say now some people (ie Vicroads driving instructors) do not agree with as they say you must be in gear at all times.... But this is the best thing for your clutch and many people use the same method and do not have the problem you are facing now.. I have used this method for well over 10 years now.

What I would suggest you do is this.. Use your brakes for slowing you down and your gears for going as a general rule... So in that situation I gave I would downshift into 3rd and pop the car into neutral at about 30-40kph. So in that example it is 1 downshift to a stop whereas you would have done three (4,3,2).

At slower speeds - lets say it is heavy traffic and I am in 4th gear at 50kph. If I see a stop coming up I will leave it in 4th gear until the car slows a little and then just pop it into neutral and come to a stop. Easy. The method I have described is much better for your clutch and transmission compared to downshifting every gear to a stop - especially given that you do not rev match.

Also try not to be stopped at lights etc with the clutch depressed. Good luck..

[jaeyon]

ive seen j-toda's driving. the main thing killing his clutch is his engine braking. its not that he uses the friction point etc, but he will engine brake using 3rd gear from 100km/hr, without blipping the throttle, and he'll do it alot. A CLUTCH IS MORE EXPENSIVE THEN YOUR BRAKES MAN haha
dw jack once you learn heel toe you'll be right, your takeoffs gearchanges etc are all good. its just the engine braking

[J-TODA]

Ok - what I am about to say now some people (ie Vicroads driving instructors) do not agree with as they say you must be in gear at all times.... But this is the best thing for your clutch and many people use the same method and do not have the problem you are facing now.. I have used this method for well over 10 years now.

What I would suggest you do is this.. Use your brakes for slowing you down and your gears for going as a general rule... So in that situation I gave I would downshift into 3rd and pop the car into neutral at about 30-40kph. So in that example it is 1 downshift to a stop whereas you would have done three (4,3,2).

At slower speeds - lets say it is heavy traffic and I am in 4th gear at 50kph. If I see a stop coming up I will leave it in 4th gear until the car slows a little and then just pop it into neutral and come to a stop. Easy. The method I have described is much better for your clutch and transmission compared to downshifting every gear to a stop - especially given that you do not rev match.

Also try not to be stopped at lights etc with the clutch depressed. Good luck..

ok LOl ye gota change my driving style...well at least ive learnt my lesson...fanx

[aaronng]

ok LOl ye gota change my driving style...well at least ive learnt my lesson...fanx

No worries, everyone has to learn. First you learn to downshift from 3rd to 2nd by blipping the throttle before releasing the clutch quickly. WHen you can do that smoothly, not only will your new clutch last longer, you will look cooler too. :thumbsup: The next step after that is heel-toe, and that will let you brake and downshift for the corner at the same time with very little wear to your clutch. And it'll make you look cool too. :cool:

And when coming to a stop, at most you only need to downshift to 3rd. I only do it to 4th like what Yfin says. No need to downshift to 2nd and 1st since the lights will still stay red.

[tony1234]

Ok - what I am about to say now some people (ie Vicroads driving instructors) do not agree with as they say you must be in gear at all times.... But this is the best thing for your clutch and many people use the same method and do not have the problem you are facing now.. I have used this method for well over 10 years now.

What I would suggest you do is this.. Use your brakes for slowing you down and your gears for going as a general rule... So in that situation I gave I would downshift into 3rd and pop the car into neutral at about 30-40kph. So in that example it is 1 downshift to a stop whereas you would have done three (4,3,2).

At slower speeds - lets say it is heavy traffic and I am in 4th gear at 50kph. If I see a stop coming up I will leave it in 4th gear until the car slows a little and then just pop it into neutral and come to a stop. Easy. The method I have described is much better for your clutch and transmission compared to downshifting every gear to a stop - especially given that you do not rev match.

Also try not to be stopped at lights etc with the clutch depressed. Good luck..
Exactly.Thats what i was tought.Brakes are for stopping,gears are for going.:D

[J-TODA]

ahhaha alright fanx boys =] for advice and info =]

[blk05gli]

The next step after that is heel-toe, and that will let you brake and downshift for the corner at the same time with very little wear to your clutch. And it'll make you look cool too. :cool:



there are issues with hell-toeing with florsheims on sydney's perfect roads :p

[aaronng]

there are issues with hell-toeing with florsheims on sydney's perfect roads :p

If Senna can do it in an NSX with dress shoes, then it is possible. LOL.
BTW, I do my heel-toes in this:
http://tbl.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pTBL-1381221dt.jpg

[J-TODA]

haahhaha nice shoes LOL =]

[tony1234]

If Senna can do it in an NSX with dress shoes, then it is possible. LOL.
BTW, I wear do my heel-toes in this:
http://tbl.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pTBL-1381221dt.jpg
Showoff!:)

[aaronng]

Showoff!:)

LOL, the downside is that I can't drive barefooted or even with sandals. :(

[EuroAccord13]

Ask Yfin how I slow down my car :D.... He's seen me do it LOL!

[EuroDude]

dude it has to be driving style

Yeh sounds like a driving style issue. It may be due to using/riding the clutch excessively in slow heavy traffic to avoid the fuel cut-off bunnyhop.
Honda should have disabled the Fuel Cut-off in 1st and 2nd gear, or at speeds below 20km/h.

[sendok]

Yeah, it depends on the driving as well.. different driving style will effect the clutch life..

[tron07]

I dont think engine braking from 100 in 3rd gear will wear the clutch in 9k.. most probably you are resting your foot on the clutch or dis-engaging the clutch to slow everytime you up shift plus the excessive engine braking.

[lilwilliam]

1 word jack lol. "hoon"

[tony1234]

It seems to me it's a combination of driving style and possibly a faulty clutch.

[tron07]

Get the dealer to replace if for free.... Even if you ride the clutch, I dont think it will wore out that fast... :D Doubt you will get the 2nd one free if it slips in 20k

[EuroDude]

Well it depends, I mean if you ride the clutch at traffic lights all the time waiting for the lights to go green (and not pushing the clutch all the way down), it will wear down quickly.

But yeh take it to the dealers and see how yo ugo.

[aaronng]

Well it depends, I mean if you ride the clutch at traffic lights all the time waiting for the lights to go green (and not pushing the clutch all the way down), it will wear down quickly.

But yeh take it to the dealers and see how yo ugo.

That won't wear your clutch unless your clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder is stuffed (engagement point right on the floor). Holding the clutch pedal in wears the throwout bearing.

[euro77]

clutch is on its way out =[ the cars onli done 9000kms ...booking in my service asap was wondering if any of uz guys have had this problem and whether or not honda can claim it under warranty ....so depressing

started off with the creaking of the clutch as common within other euros...however other day noticed the slipping of clutch...and jst now pressure on the gas pedal cause revs to jump almost redline..and dosnet seem like it will catch the gear b4 redline...

any advice or info much appreciated..... :thumbdwn: =[

Couldn't be bothered to read all 5 pages, so sorry if my answer is obsolete or already answered. I had the same problem ages ago when the car is about a year old (less than 10,000kms), the clutch just slipped suddenly and I can smell a burnt clutch. put it in garage, book for a service, which don't happen until 3 days later, and everything suddenly is fine and is still fine when it was sold (in 2006). So maybe leave it for a few days, then try again. The dealer can't say anything as it wasn't slipping or anything when they test it (lucky they don't charge me for testing it out).

[EuroDude]

That won't wear your clutch unless your clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder is stuffed (engagement point right on the floor). Holding the clutch pedal in wears the throwout bearing.


Yeh but if you dont push the clutch all the way down (for instance if you held the clutch 3/4 of the way down near the contact point), wouldnt the clutch be wearing down?

[J-TODA]

Yeh but if you dont push the clutch all the way down (for instance if you held the clutch 3/4 of the way down near the contact point), wouldnt the clutch be wearing down?

urghh well dats what i do during " engine braking " so if thats the cause =[


euro booked in for Next !!! tueday =[...atm collectn dust in gargage..dont wanna cause more damage

[aaronng]

Yeh but if you dont push the clutch all the way down (for instance if you held the clutch 3/4 of the way down near the contact point), wouldnt the clutch be wearing down?

LOL, reading owns me. I failed to notice the "not all the way in" part. http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8259/tfr826ny0.png

[040501912]

some faulty on manufacturing is most probably im thinking.

crap linings on the bearings or loose bolt on it may cause this.. worst off all snap ing the bearing connector ROFL

[aaronng]

some faulty on manufacturing is most probably im thinking.

crap linings on the bearings or loose bolt on it may cause this.. worst off all snap ing the bearing connector ROFL

Nope, nope and nope..... :)

[040501912]

:s lol .. just trying :p

[EuroDude]

urghh well dats what i do during " engine braking " so if thats the cause =[


yep riding the clutch during engine braking is harsh on the clutch.

Anyhoo let us know what they find

[J-TODA]

ye LOL!!!

[destrukshn]

they'll find a burnt and glazed friction plate.
lol.
the second they see that, they know it's driver abuse, and will no cover it.
lol.

[J-TODA]

clutch fully gone....cant evn shift into gear nemore...so onli option is goin aftermarket.... most prob exedy heavy duty organic.....

delayed the service till after clutch is installed....

=[

[yfin]

clutch fully gone....cant evn shift into gear nemore...so onli option is goin aftermarket.... most prob exedy heavy duty organic.....

delayed the service till after clutch is installed....

=[

Take it to your dealer before you consider paying for aftermarket. The stupidest decision you could make now is to go aftermarket without letting the dealer DIAGNOSE the cause of the problem and giving them an opportunity to consider whether they will cover it under warranty.

[aaronng]

clutch fully gone....cant evn shift into gear nemore...so onli option is goin aftermarket.... most prob exedy heavy duty organic.....

delayed the service till after clutch is installed....

=[
Can't shift into gear? That's not a symptom of a worn clutch.

[J-TODA]

serz??/ cant evn drive the car though....how supposed to get it to service??

[aaronng]

Honda roadside assist to tow you to the dealer.

[J-TODA]

any ideas of what the problem is...cause i can put the gear stick into the postion however when i attempt to accelerate...its as if it is in neutral "known due to the rev limiter at 4*** rpm"

[yfin]

any ideas of what the problem is...cause i can put the gear stick into the postion however when i attempt to accelerate...its as if it is in neutral "known due to the rev limiter at 4*** rpm"

I don't know why you are still asking what the problem is considering you raised it 10 days ago. Asking internet mechanics and your friends is fine - but your car really should have been at the dealership the day after you noticed the problem. That is what warranty is for. The car only has 9000kms so forget the aftermarket stuff for the moment and get your car to Honda :) Let us know how it goes.

[destrukshn]

BUT using a aftermarket clutch, may voide your warranty to your box, and other related items.

it's like when, when people lower their cars, and put big wheels, it voids the wheel bearings, and cv's.

[J-TODA]

ye well ill get roadside assist to take to dealers 2morow.... den ye get uz updated...

[aaronng]

any ideas of what the problem is...cause i can put the gear stick into the postion however when i attempt to accelerate...its as if it is in neutral "known due to the rev limiter at 4*** rpm"

I thought you said you can't shift into gear?

[destrukshn]

I thought you said you can't shift into gear?
probably meant, it goes into gear, but doens't move.
lol.

[lilwilliam]

could it be his gear boc?

[destrukshn]

doubt it, clutch is probably totally ****ed, so it wont grab.

[aaronng]

It's his clutch.

[J-TODA]

I thought you said you can't shift into gear?

i can shift into the position where...1st 2nd 3rd woteva is...bt as i attempt to accelerate....it seems as if i am in neutral....cause it onli revs to 4*** rpm where the neutral rev limiter is...and the car dosnet go...

[aaronng]

Your clutch is gone. It is limited to 4500rpm because your speed is 0 km/h.

[J-TODA]

well den well know by 2mrow i guess...really hoping its clutch and not gearbox... =[

[J-TODA]

got quoted approximately 1800 =[[....prob will b gettin another quote...jst to c if it is the real price or jst a scam to rip off...

things whihc need to be replaced/repaird:

- clutch plate replaced
- throughout bearing replaced
- pressure plate replaced
- spiggot bearing reaplced
- flywheel machined

+ service costs and labour...

anyone got any ideas of wherther this price is accuate for what need to be done?? any help/ advice appreaciated

[yfin]

Come back a step J-Toda. What did the dealer say about this being a warranty job? Other people have had this sort of thing covered by warranty - and I mean people with Euros specifically.

[J-TODA]

nah apparantly its my fault due to the wearing of the clutch...and the gearbox has no problems and hence...warranty does not cover it...

i fink also due to me replacing my brake pads at 6kkms...due to shameful hooning....they think this problem is linked to it...so ye

[aaronng]

You replacing your pads at 6000km has nothing to do with the clutch. But clutch wear is not covered by warranty.

[EuroDude]

fook $1800 :eek: dude buy the OEM parts from a honda dealer spare parts dept and get an aftermarket clutch (which should be cheaper than the honda one depending on what you get), and take the car to a generic gearbox mechanic. You'll save alot of money unless they rip you off lol

[J-TODA]

fook $1800 :eek: dude buy the OEM parts from a honda dealer spare parts dept and get an aftermarket clutch (which should be cheaper than the honda one depending on what you get), and take the car to a generic gearbox mechanic. You'll save alot of money unless they rip you off lol

LOL sounds like dat will cost even more LOL!!! and time ...evn though not realli concernd bout time...but ye...want the job done good

lol anyone know if honda service bargain downs prices?? LOl i dont fink that they will....bt rents suggesting i should...

[yfin]

nah apparantly its my fault due to the wearing of the clutch...and the gearbox has no problems and hence...warranty does not cover it...

i fink also due to me replacing my brake pads at 6kkms...due to shameful hooning....they think this problem is linked to it...so ye

Brake pads at 6000kms? What the? How did you achieve that.

Anyway, I know of a person on this forum who had exactly the same thing as you covered by warranty. But I don't think you have any chance now if your car looks like it has been through hell in every other regard.

[TODA AU]

got quoted approximately 1800 =[[....prob will b gettin another quote...jst to c if it is the real price or jst a scam to rip off...

things whihc need to be replaced/repaird:

- clutch plate replaced
- throughout bearing replaced
- pressure plate replaced
- spiggot bearing reaplced
- flywheel machined

+ service costs and labour...

anyone got any ideas of wherther this price is accuate for what need to be done?? any help/ advice appreaciated

We can beat that & use brand new aftermarket parts including a lightweight flywheel.
As a car nut, you should use this as an oportunity.
Manditory maintenance is going to cost you money either way.
This way you can turn a negative into a positive.

Btw.
Tell the dealer the CL9 doesn't have a spigot bearing to replace... ;)

[EuroDude]

Yeh genuine honda parts are very expensive so you may find that you will save $500+ if you get it done at a non-honda tranny workshop.

J-TODA get a quote from some tranny places ( www.yellowpages.com.au ). A clutch replacement isnt that big of a job to do since the gearbox just needs to be dropped, not opened.

[J-TODA]

We can beat that & use brand new aftermarket
Btw.


Tell the dealer the CL9 doesn't have a spigot bearing to replace... ;)

realli man?? wtf..ye ill tell em once they apparantly replace it....

ohhh man wish u told me bout dis earlier...rents persuded me 2 fix at honda..car should be done by thursday...arghhh...money wasted...=[[

fanx for the adivce bout the spigot bearing...

[tron07]

You just let them diagnose and fixed it without getting a 2nd opinion or pushing for warranty??

[J-TODA]

You just let them diagnose and fixed it without getting a 2nd opinion or pushing for warranty??

ye its already settled...doing it at honda service...=[ rents decision...
car should be ready on either friday or sat morning...

and den then the transformation of driving style will begin...

[tron07]

Yeah... drive slowly and not so agressive... it wouldnt be agressive on your wallet also. Acelerate slowly and brake gradually.

[EuroDude]

and den then the transformation of driving style will begin...

For sure.

Only hold the clutch all the way in, and all the way out.
Never hold the clutch in the middle unless you need to do a tricky hill start.
Learn to do quick clutch engagements that take less than a second
And never ride the clutch when engine braking ;)

[aaronng]

And when on hill start, ALSO use your handbrake!

[J-TODA]

alright boys jst got the car back =] sooo happy ...they evn washed and cleaned everything =]]...so pretty pleased... although still ahve that creaking clutch problem like some of u other guys have so taking it back 2morow to get it checked

[tron07]

I give them instruction not to wash my car when I sent for service.... now thinking of even warping up my gearknob, dont want to get scratch like aaron.

[aaronng]

My poor knob.............

[EuroDude]

I give them instruction not to wash my car when I sent for service.... .

same here, my dealer uses a dirty foam to wash the car instead of woolen mits (which dont scratch). u should have seen all the circular scratches on my euro when it was delivered brand new to me.. :o

[aaronng]

My dealer only sprays the car with a high pressure spray. Not as clean but at least no swirls.

[type-vtec]

bloody hoon!