PDA

View Full Version : 89 CRX brakes.... call me thick, but..



crx51
26-02-2007, 05:23 PM
Hey guys,
I dont really play around too much with the mechanical side of my car myself. However i want to replace my brakes.

Ive done dba slotteds on my last crx. This time though i want to go bigger and whilst people have tried to explain whats required im still that bit confused.

Say i go and buy some dc2 ITR rotors from dba and get them redrilled to 4x100. Then i go to a wrecker and get a set of ITR callipers and have them all checked over to make sure they are working well and matching pads. From there what is required??

People talk of shaving the bracket and things. Is it an expensive job (after having the parts already sorted) or can i take the parts to my local brake shop and tell them i want them fitted and expect they will be able to do this without drama????? I dont understand the full set up requirements etc when it comes to brakes. My concern would be that the caliper would require different bracket and so wont be centred across top of disc correctly and that if there is slight variation in gap between sides of disc to pads or a variation in setup position between L+R disc the calipers arent going to be 'grabbed' efficiently and evenly on both sides resulting in dramas...

Thoughts??? Id really like to do the big brake upgrade but i dont want to fork out 2.5k or anything ridiculous when for 1k the old dba setup was pretty good.

e240
26-02-2007, 11:58 PM
Whats your current Brake diameter? 242 or 262mm?

The ITR rotors are 282mm, this is the same as the Prelude rotor (BB4? with H22?)

You will then need the larger calipers & Bracket from these cars. Not sure if the ITR calipers are the same, but if you're using the Prelude Calipers, the brackets will need to be shaved 2~3mm at the mounting holes.

The machining cost shouldn't be that much...$50.

A decent brake shop tailored to performance should know how to do this. Try Racebrakes?

In all, you probably shouldn't need to pay more than $500 for a complete setup with reconditioned rotors, as per some of the guys here selling...

The pictured setup costs around $700 including New Endless Brake Pads + Brand New Rotors + Rebuilt Calipers, but I got the stuff cheap...This is an ITR rotors with a Prelude Brake Caliper on an EG.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/e240_a/Brake-2.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/e240_a/Brake-1.jpg

crx51
27-02-2007, 01:33 PM
Whats your current Brake diameter? 242 or 262mm?

The ITR rotors are 282mm, this is the same as the Prelude rotor (BB4? with H22?)

You will then need the larger calipers & Bracket from these cars. Not sure if the ITR calipers are the same, but if you're using the Prelude Calipers, the brackets will need to be shaved 2~3mm at the mounting holes.

The machining cost shouldn't be that much...$50.

A decent brake shop tailored to performance should know how to do this. Try Racebrakes?

In all, you probably shouldn't need to pay more than $500 for a complete setup with reconditioned rotors, as per some of the guys here selling...

The pictured setup costs around $700 including New Endless Brake Pads + Brand New Rotors + Rebuilt Calipers, but I got the stuff cheap...This is an ITR rotors with a Prelude Brake Caliper on an EG.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/e240_a/Brake-2.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/e240_a/Brake-1.jpg


Thanks mate, thats really helpful. Your setup is pretty much exactly what im after. How's it perform? Pretty well id imagine. How expensive is it to have the calipers rebuilt? And where do you get the calipers? Just from wreckers or something? Anyone know of any wreckers in qld that would regularly get them through?

Benson
27-02-2007, 02:06 PM
first of all, upgrading ur MC and booster to a bigger one (dc2R) wuld be a start.

As for shaving the brake bracket, any machine shop can do this, 3mm needs to be shaved off. Its safer compare to using spacers.

panda[cRx]
27-02-2007, 10:13 PM
e240 summed it up nicely

crx51
01-03-2007, 02:45 PM
Gday guys, i really appreciate everyone's input. ozhonda.com can be a good reference point for obscure questions and everyone thats answered has proven that. Thanks for your help guys!!!

Snoop_gee
02-03-2007, 10:34 PM
hw did u make a itr rotor 4 stud :S *confused*

z3lda
02-03-2007, 11:08 PM
standard honda jack stands are death traps

e240
05-03-2007, 08:34 PM
How's it perform?

I can comment on this now.

It performs just fantastic. Actually, no...its very twitchy on the road with road tyres. Bedding in the rotors and pads, I accidently locked up the front a few times. The braking force is like... spongy initial bite and then press abit more...Bang! it bites .. (Oh, I'm also using an EK4 master pump)

On the track it was a very different story...With semi's, jam hard on the brakes and it just slows the car down sufficiently. 1 Hard stab and it was sufficient to rein the speed in.

I was having suspension problems with the front shocks bottoming out so seriously (causing the fender to cut the tyres) that the car was just hopping sideways instead of driving forward. I left foot braked to get around the understeer and the brakes just held up really well. I never experienced fade at all throughout the day. Fluid used was the Silver Castrol dot 4

Cheers.