EF8 Engine Mounts.. stiffer/fresher solution?

[Dxs]

Just wondering what my options are in regards to stiffening/freshing up my engine mounts in my EF8.

I see engine mount inserts from Energy Suspesion for DC2 and EG. But ofcourse nothing for JDM EF.

I also hear people fill their mounts with certain resins or substances?



So what i am wondering is, how many mounts are there for the engine in an EF8. Are any of these mounts the same in another car? And suggestions on what to do with them?

[Dylanamus]

I would also like to know.

[Drew]

Just do this

http://www.prelude3.com/Engine/Solid%20motor%20mounts/solid%20motor%20mounts.htm

[Dxs]

thanks drew...

yeah i have been researching various methods of filling with polyurethane..
seems that there are a few different variations. eg: filling the gaps, removing all the rubber and using nothing but urethane and even using inserts and some urethane with them.

[Drew]

You can try it whatever way you like it... If it doesn't quiet work for you, whats stopping you from doing it again a different way?

How about some rep ;)?

[Limo]

im pretty sure they only want to do this once, as you need to drop out the motor everytime to do this.

from my conversion work last yr, i couldnt find any company that supplied aftermarket engine mounts other than oem ones from honda. not even HASPORT.

theres 4 oem mounts, front,rear,side(trans),side

but from speaking to honda, i did find out that the front and rear mounts are from a DC2, so you could get some aftermarket ones there like HASPORT, then use oem ones and/or filled with polyurethane if you want..

what about a engine damper kit?.. then again, i havent seen nothing for ef8 either.

[Dxs]

yeah, engine dampers are a bit of a new fad.. i guess you could find something in similar size and do a bit of custom..

i am sure stiffer mounts should be fine..


Interesting that you say DC2 front are rear mounts are the same as EF8.. but talk is cheap

Filling with urethane will only cost around 40 bucks, where as getting hasport mounts etc etc and f-ing around with that will cost considerabilly more

[Dylanamus]

LIMO: is it necessary to drop the engine out to replace a single mount? I have one mount in particular that is buggered and ideally if I could just take that one off and replace the perished rubber with urethane, I wouldn't need any help (pay anyone). It's the front mount infront of the transmission - which I imagine is why power transfer (acceleration or decelleration) makes my car clunk and jerk when I put my foot on or off the pedal.

I haven't increased the power output, so I don't care about increasing the strength of the mounts themselves, but rather, replace the bushing with something more enduring.

What's the reason for needing to drop down? Can't the mount be removed if a bit of upwards pressure is placed on the tranny (ie jack with wood chuck)?

Does anyone know roughly what the difference in flexibility is between the OEM rubber bush and 50A, 55A etc?

[ACTI0NMAN-1]

place the car on stands
jack the engine up slightly to remove pressure on mounts. place a block of wood onto of a trolly jack.

you should be able to remove the mount with a bit of effort.

[Steer^Gimic]

yeah, engine dampers are a bit of a new fad.. i guess you could find something in similar size and do a bit of custom..

i am sure stiffer mounts should be fine..


Interesting that you say DC2 front are rear mounts are the same as EF8.. but talk is cheap

Filling with urethane will only cost around 40 bucks, where as getting hasport mounts etc etc and f-ing around with that will cost considerabilly more

how are you mate. i tried the polyurethane method with the DA. Huge difference, very easy to do. If i where you id buy a set of 2nd hand ordinary mounts and go to town with them.

what you could also do, is take your old 2nd hand mounts, go to purple pig with your mounts and they'll make new inserts for you, as stiff as you want. i estimate around $70. so IMO its a happier medium between Bunnings ($20 a tube) and HASport (400+)

btw, i just bought an siR :cool:

[Dylanamus]

CRX SiR? Welcome to the club :P

So purple pig you say... I'm still trying to figure out what the best hardess would be. Something inbetween 50A (bunnings) and 70A that industrial resin some other poster in another thread mentioned, probably.

If the mounts are fine (just the bushes are rooted), no need to buy new ones, right?

[Dxs]

he was in the club before us dylan then left :p

ofcourse u dont need new mounts if the bushings are the only things stuffed.. because essentially that is what is getting replaced/substituted.

i am intrigued by purple pig.. what process do they use, setting a urethane? or a solid urethane cut/machined into place?

[Drew]

Go for the stiffer stuff

Just the front mount wouldn't really cause too much if any vibration...

The rear mount will probably cause the most vibration from the engine

[Steer^Gimic]

he was in the club before us dylan then left :p

ofcourse u dont need new mounts if the bushings are the only things stuffed.. because essentially that is what is getting replaced/substituted.

i am intrigued by purple pig.. what process do they use, setting a urethane? or a solid urethane cut/machined into place?

Thanks Dylanamus, we'll have to have a bit of a meet, and yeh its a CRX.

Dan, id say its already a hard compound and its machined down.

and trust me, go for the hard stuff, you will LOVE it, and the feedback it gives. you'll only hate it for a little when you take off slowly (shudder)

[Dxs]

...well i do like it stiff

prob wont be looking into doing it for a couple of months though.. unless i can get some old mounts

we should get all the SiR boys together one night for a photo shoot too

[Drew]

Why not do it now?

If its broken whats the problem?
Take it out in the evening and fill it... Let it dry overnight and put it back in the morning

[Limo]

DXS: speak to damo from easternhonda, he should be able to confirm it, as i get all my honda parts through him an he has all the sir part numbers. or ring up a another honda spare parts, and ask for the part numbers.. you will need to give them your vin number tho cos its a import etc.

Dylanamus: you dont have to drop the engine out completly to change the mounts.. as already said, jack up the car, lift the engine up slightly with crane and you can access the front and both sides mounts. the rear one you cant tho, cos of the bolt pattern.. theres one that sits just behind the actual mount, which requires the engine out (still a bitch to get to tho)or drop out the supporting beam(not sure what its called, it runs along the back underneath the firewall.

[hyrpm]

i changed all my mounts with out removing the engine or rear crossmember just one bolt on the rear mount is abit tricky to get and for the front one drop the front cross member and it should come out easily

[XB-16-AX]

dude,

i bought custom engine mounts for my B16A conversion on my concerto, the OEM mounts are almost identical to the EF/ED, but i wanted a stiffer and race look. so i bought custom mounts.

Try giving Jim a call from Online Performance in Sydney and he can hook u up with custom local mounts.

they dont look as good as the hasports but they do the job.

Its full poly and its red and blue in colour.

the only downfall is u may get some vibrations but in the cabin give u a race feeling. :wave:

When u rev hard , or on idle u dont see ANY engine movements at all.

if u get the EF/ED Kit to B series, you can use on either B16A/B18C engines on the same kit.

from what i recall they cost me $400 the set.

give them a call.

[Dxs]

ok...
I have an EF8.. which already has a b16a stock
when most people say EF/ED they are brainwashed by americans who call their ED's EF's..

so basically ED/EF mounts to B series are different to EF8 mounts..

but anyway
i am just wanting to do a cheap improvement.. i am sure just altering or replacing the stock rubber bushings will be suffice.

i doubt aftermarket mounts will make much difference than stock mounts with stiffing bushings anyway

[XB-16-AX]

i doubt aftermarket mounts will make much difference than stock mounts with stiffing bushings anyway

the aftermarket ones im talking about are FULL Polys and no rubber stuff like the OEM ones,

i guess placing bushings in the OEM might make a stiffer feeling. but going ALL poly is as stiff as my hard-on!! :p

i reckon there is a big difference.

my 55 cents! :P

[Dxs]

well there are various options..
i have found sites which show people removing all the rubber and then filling with a polyurethane..

but basically, i am not willing to pay 400 for mounts.. when i can DIY with stock mounts for 1/8th of the price and probably get almost the same result...

but anyway here is a pic of the EF8 setup for reference
http://i15.tinypic.com/4cwofio.jpg

[panda[cRx]]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36385
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51515

[XB-16-AX]

good stuff ..if only this was an option for my car besides going custom!!

let us know how u go with the above, as it would be interesting to know.

a good FYI.

[AUSVTEC]

You could try and get your hands on a set of these:
Mugen engine mount set. Part No. 50800-XE9-SONO
Mugen use these mounts in there N1 race cars, civic's and crx's

Working well on my car, stiffer than oem but not stiff enoguh to rattle your car appart and not to expensive about $320 landed in Aus..

I have all the part numbers for the mugen suspension and bush range and also engine products for the EF8 crx, pm me if ya want em.

[Dylanamus]

Just while everyone is subscribed, which mounts receive the most torque transfer from acceleration/decceleration? Those are the only mounts I'll fill with urethane.

At the moment even if I slowly decrease the pressure I put on the accelerator, it gets to a certain point and the whole car jerks back (or forth) and then if I reapply acceleration (even if I never took my foot off and gently press slowly) it jerks again. So if my guess that the engine mounts are to blame is wrong, someone please say so now haha (I know for a fact that the front mount is buggered, but just not if the above symptoms are linked).

DXS: go halves in a tub of 65A with ya ;)

[Drew]

The rear mount

[Dxs]

DXS: go halves in a tub of 65A with ya ;)


deal.. now to find the stuff

[Drew]

Bunnings?

[Dxs]

Anyone know where to get some polyurethane.. around 65a hardness.. knox area?

bunnings? purple pig?

[Dxs]

bunnings had f all.. which was to be expected

purple pig had 90 hardness... but i am aiming for 65 hardness (i dont know why), 90 seems real hard though..

seems polytek has some products.. not that cheap though..

anyone want to tell me their experiences and what they used?

[Dylanamus]

DXS I can tell you from my experience that 90A is basically what you would call a solid plastic. 80a is like a rollerblade wheel - again practically solid.

I would be more inclined go to even softer than 65A, but it would probably be the upper end of what would be practical.

[Steer^Gimic]

bleh if your going hardcore and filling them, go the whole hog and fill them up with 90a.

dan you went to Bunnings in Scoresby didnt ya?

[Dxs]

i went to one in vermont cause it is on the way back from uni..

they dont have the 2 part mix i was after.. didnt bother looking at the corking gun style..

i am going to go for 75 hardness.. i have felt 90 and it is damn solid.. 75 should be nice
when @ purple pig some customer told me to check out solid solutions in east bentleigh. they have a site, so i will go there later in the week and get some 75 polytek stuff and see how i go

[kyle]

let me know how you go! a DIY would be good too!