Rasputin
22-04-2007, 10:10 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Aim: To replace the stock Rear Lower Control Arms with new aftermarket items
Required: Jack+Jackstands, Replacement LCAs, possibly two High Tensile bolts to replace the stock swaybar bolts (With some LCA's the stock bolts are too short) 10mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, extension bar, and using an air compressor recommended as it'll make the job a whole lot easier, but can be done with muscle.
Steps:
Other comments While my Koni Yellows were being installed, it was noticed that the bushings in my Rear LCAs (Lower Control Arms) had massively deteriorated, and after 17 years were no longer doing their job. This led to less than ideal performance, as well as increased negative camber.
After receiving a quote for new bushings and their replacement, I realised that even before the labour to actually remove the LCAs and replace them, the cost was going to be around the same as the solution provided here on the forums by egSi, (AKA Trav of undergroundimports.com.au)
And more importantly, once the shop finally got the bushings, I’d have to take the car in and leave it with them for a few days (LCAs Off + bushings off + new bushings on + LCAs On = far too much time without my car on the road)
So for all of you who want to get these as an alternative either because your bushings are shot and you can’t stand the wait and the cost, or because they also add a degree of positive camber (which is great for all of us with lowered cars, as it helps to bring out tyres back nice and flat on the ground for improved braking, handling and traction), for the lightweight factor, or just coz you love bling, here’s how to get them on your car.
These Megan Racing LCAs are an ‘unbolt the old and bolt in the new’ affair. Four bolts a side? Too easy.
1. Loosen the nuts on your rear wheels, and then jack up your car safely and securely, using jack-stands, leaving the car in gear and putting and chocks on the front wheels. Once the rear of the car is off the ground, take off the rear wheels and put them aside.
2. Firstly, you’ll want to take a look at the bolts you’ll need to remove to pull the crusty old LCA out. On each side there should be three you have to access from the rear of the car, and one on the opposite side of the LCAs. These are labeled here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/2a.jpgA shot from the front side of the car, to show you the swaybar bolt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/2b.jpg
3. Now begin removing the bolts. I found the best order was Swaybar bolt (red), shock bolt (middle green), outer bolt (green closest to side of car), subframe bolt (green closest to centre of the car). i.e. Left to right on the passenger side: 3rd, 2nd, 1st, 4th
Depending on the tool you’re using, you’ll probably run into the same issue that I did: I couldn’t fit my airtool in between the subframe bolt and the exhaust on the passenger’s side, so I had to lift the exhaust off the rubber mount on that side (yellow circle in picture)
Longshot:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/3a.jpg
Closeup:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/3b.jpg
4. Once all the bolts are free, if it hasn’t dropped down and hit you in the head already, wiggle the LCA out now. This should be the result:
5. As you can see in the previous picture, the happy little piece of M.R. hardware is ready to go. At this point you should make sure that you have the right one (i.e. when it’s bolted up, the white ‘Megan Racing’ should be facing towards the rear of the car) and also that the three hex screws that come with each arm have been torqued down to hold the bushings in nice and tight. These are made to be screwed into the matching threads on top of the LCA, over the three biggest bolt holes, before it is installed on the car. Sorry that I don’t have pictures of these.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/5a.jpg
6. Just in case you’re reading through this mid-install, having not lined up the bolts in the correct order for reinstallation, I’ve taken a photo of which go where. This is of the passenger’s side LCA. Not that the two pointy-ended bolts are on opposite ends, with the shock’s flat-ended bolt in the middle. The other middle bolt with the washer is the one for the swaybar.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/6a.jpg
Note: The stock swaybar bolt will not be long enough for use with the Megan Racing LCA (on the da9 at least), I had to replace it with a matching bolt but of 65mm length (70mm will probably also be fine). The stock ~50mm length bolt originally used was not long enough to grab into the thread of the new LCA properly, so don’t forget to grab the two bolts as suggested in the ‘parts/tools needed’ section at the beginning of this DIY, and make sure they’re decent bolts (i.e. new, high tensile ones from an autopro / supercheap / any auto store)
7. Now it’s as simple as bolting the new LCA in place of the old. Just make sure that you’re using the correct bolts. Here’s me having the time of my life after having spent 7 hours doing various things in the garage already.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/7a.jpg
8. Rinse and repeat. You can either finish one side completely before starting on the other, or uninstall/install both sides simultaneously. Whatever floats your boat. Just get both sides done.
And make sure you don’t let a mate ‘help out’ by accidentally removing one of your brake line bolts….and stripping it….bad Jason, bad.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/8a.jpg
9. Once everything is all bolted up nice and tight, and double checked, put your wheels back on, drop the car to the ground and then make sure your wheels are tightened up again properly.
Since you’ve been mucking around with all the suspension back there, an alignment would be idea if you have an adjustable toe or camber kit in the rear. If you don’t, you should definitely getting yourself some adjustability back there. Having the correct alignment front AND rear can do wonders for your cars handling.
Other than that, enjoy your new Lower control arms! Half the weight of stock, tough bushings, a degree of positive camber and much better looking, you can’t really go wrong.
Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/8a.jpg
After:
(Pic coming in the next few days)
Aim: To replace the stock Rear Lower Control Arms with new aftermarket items
Required: Jack+Jackstands, Replacement LCAs, possibly two High Tensile bolts to replace the stock swaybar bolts (With some LCA's the stock bolts are too short) 10mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, extension bar, and using an air compressor recommended as it'll make the job a whole lot easier, but can be done with muscle.
Steps:
Other comments While my Koni Yellows were being installed, it was noticed that the bushings in my Rear LCAs (Lower Control Arms) had massively deteriorated, and after 17 years were no longer doing their job. This led to less than ideal performance, as well as increased negative camber.
After receiving a quote for new bushings and their replacement, I realised that even before the labour to actually remove the LCAs and replace them, the cost was going to be around the same as the solution provided here on the forums by egSi, (AKA Trav of undergroundimports.com.au)
And more importantly, once the shop finally got the bushings, I’d have to take the car in and leave it with them for a few days (LCAs Off + bushings off + new bushings on + LCAs On = far too much time without my car on the road)
So for all of you who want to get these as an alternative either because your bushings are shot and you can’t stand the wait and the cost, or because they also add a degree of positive camber (which is great for all of us with lowered cars, as it helps to bring out tyres back nice and flat on the ground for improved braking, handling and traction), for the lightweight factor, or just coz you love bling, here’s how to get them on your car.
These Megan Racing LCAs are an ‘unbolt the old and bolt in the new’ affair. Four bolts a side? Too easy.
1. Loosen the nuts on your rear wheels, and then jack up your car safely and securely, using jack-stands, leaving the car in gear and putting and chocks on the front wheels. Once the rear of the car is off the ground, take off the rear wheels and put them aside.
2. Firstly, you’ll want to take a look at the bolts you’ll need to remove to pull the crusty old LCA out. On each side there should be three you have to access from the rear of the car, and one on the opposite side of the LCAs. These are labeled here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/2a.jpgA shot from the front side of the car, to show you the swaybar bolt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/2b.jpg
3. Now begin removing the bolts. I found the best order was Swaybar bolt (red), shock bolt (middle green), outer bolt (green closest to side of car), subframe bolt (green closest to centre of the car). i.e. Left to right on the passenger side: 3rd, 2nd, 1st, 4th
Depending on the tool you’re using, you’ll probably run into the same issue that I did: I couldn’t fit my airtool in between the subframe bolt and the exhaust on the passenger’s side, so I had to lift the exhaust off the rubber mount on that side (yellow circle in picture)
Longshot:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/3a.jpg
Closeup:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/3b.jpg
4. Once all the bolts are free, if it hasn’t dropped down and hit you in the head already, wiggle the LCA out now. This should be the result:
5. As you can see in the previous picture, the happy little piece of M.R. hardware is ready to go. At this point you should make sure that you have the right one (i.e. when it’s bolted up, the white ‘Megan Racing’ should be facing towards the rear of the car) and also that the three hex screws that come with each arm have been torqued down to hold the bushings in nice and tight. These are made to be screwed into the matching threads on top of the LCA, over the three biggest bolt holes, before it is installed on the car. Sorry that I don’t have pictures of these.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/5a.jpg
6. Just in case you’re reading through this mid-install, having not lined up the bolts in the correct order for reinstallation, I’ve taken a photo of which go where. This is of the passenger’s side LCA. Not that the two pointy-ended bolts are on opposite ends, with the shock’s flat-ended bolt in the middle. The other middle bolt with the washer is the one for the swaybar.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/6a.jpg
Note: The stock swaybar bolt will not be long enough for use with the Megan Racing LCA (on the da9 at least), I had to replace it with a matching bolt but of 65mm length (70mm will probably also be fine). The stock ~50mm length bolt originally used was not long enough to grab into the thread of the new LCA properly, so don’t forget to grab the two bolts as suggested in the ‘parts/tools needed’ section at the beginning of this DIY, and make sure they’re decent bolts (i.e. new, high tensile ones from an autopro / supercheap / any auto store)
7. Now it’s as simple as bolting the new LCA in place of the old. Just make sure that you’re using the correct bolts. Here’s me having the time of my life after having spent 7 hours doing various things in the garage already.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/7a.jpg
8. Rinse and repeat. You can either finish one side completely before starting on the other, or uninstall/install both sides simultaneously. Whatever floats your boat. Just get both sides done.
And make sure you don’t let a mate ‘help out’ by accidentally removing one of your brake line bolts….and stripping it….bad Jason, bad.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/8a.jpg
9. Once everything is all bolted up nice and tight, and double checked, put your wheels back on, drop the car to the ground and then make sure your wheels are tightened up again properly.
Since you’ve been mucking around with all the suspension back there, an alignment would be idea if you have an adjustable toe or camber kit in the rear. If you don’t, you should definitely getting yourself some adjustability back there. Having the correct alignment front AND rear can do wonders for your cars handling.
Other than that, enjoy your new Lower control arms! Half the weight of stock, tough bushings, a degree of positive camber and much better looking, you can’t really go wrong.
Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/bleeding_sun/8a.jpg
After:
(Pic coming in the next few days)