TeMp
06-05-2007, 02:12 PM
Thought was an excellent post and would like to share. Especially the part I will bold. Originally quoted from CITR by jlo.
Here (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=317713&page=2) is the original thread CRSX itself.
ok first things first, EVERYONE, please remove the idea from your head that some how the laws of Physics affect RWD differntly then FWD, because they don't. Meaning, If you increase the front spring rates on a RWD car, you increase understeer... Just like FWD. So Tuning "rules" apply exactly the same to both. you'll end up with different settings between a FWD and RWD chassis, but the physics and tuning theory are the same for both. (the different settings between FWD and RWD is primairly due to static weight distribution and power delivery)
Second thing..... Shocks AKA Dampers have NO effect on the amount of weight that a car transfers in a turn, Nor do they influence where the weight that does get transfered goes (Front or rear). they DO influence how quickly the weight gets transfered, and as such they influence mostly Transitional cornering characteristics... i.e. Corner entry and exit. meaning, if your car oversteers/understeers mid corner... thats not a damper issue, but if if oversteers/understeers on corner entry and/or exit then your dampers may need some tweaking.
On to Tuning....
Since Dampers dont alter how much weight gets transfered or where it goes (Front VS Rear) whats the point in adjusting the valving??? Well, since dampers contol the speed of weight transfer, you can tweak them to force the chassis to transfer weight faster or slower on one end of the car Vs the other. How is this usefull in tuning.... Simple. Because weight transfer esentially reduces the amount of traction a car makes and Dampers control how quicky weight gets transfered, you can Tune the dampers to force the chassis to transfer weight quicker (front or rear) and force one end of the car to lose traction quicker, thus influenceing the oversteer/understeer balance of the car. So, if the car is understeering you want to either slow the rate of weight transfer at the front of the car, and/or increase the rate of weight transfer at the rear of the car. for tuning purposes... STIFFER VALVING (both bump and rebound) = Faster weight transfer.
Esentially, you end up increasing the valving on the end of the car you want to have "stick" less, and you decrease the valving on the end you want to have "stick" more.
Now, there are some other things to think about while tuning with dampers. Primairly, Increasing the valving on the nose of the car also has the side effect of increasing the responce rate of the cars steering.... meaning it will react quicker to your steering imputs. This is why people tend to feel that stiffer valving on the nose is better, simply because it "Feels" better. The car is reacting quicker to your steering imputs... and that has to be better right? Not nessisarly. See, Just because the car is initiating turns quicker, doesnt mean its acutally able to take that turn quicker (you are dialing in more understeer afterall, and understeer is slow) and as most autocrossers and road racers know... what "feels" Fast, ushually isnt. So you end up having to comprimise between chassis responce rate, and the oversteer/understeer balance if you are trying to make the car as fast as possible on track. For the street... well, most people tune to make the car "Feel" fast (which is why some people seem to feel that stiff springs and stiff valving = good handling)
Does any of this really matter for the street... probably not, because after all, tuning the car to be a tenth or so of a second faster in a turn isnt really something that you'd be able to notice on the street. but for compitition, a tenth saved per turn.... adds up quickly over the course of the track.
hopefully that sheds some light on the Tuning with Dampers issue.
Here (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=317713&page=2) is the original thread CRSX itself.
ok first things first, EVERYONE, please remove the idea from your head that some how the laws of Physics affect RWD differntly then FWD, because they don't. Meaning, If you increase the front spring rates on a RWD car, you increase understeer... Just like FWD. So Tuning "rules" apply exactly the same to both. you'll end up with different settings between a FWD and RWD chassis, but the physics and tuning theory are the same for both. (the different settings between FWD and RWD is primairly due to static weight distribution and power delivery)
Second thing..... Shocks AKA Dampers have NO effect on the amount of weight that a car transfers in a turn, Nor do they influence where the weight that does get transfered goes (Front or rear). they DO influence how quickly the weight gets transfered, and as such they influence mostly Transitional cornering characteristics... i.e. Corner entry and exit. meaning, if your car oversteers/understeers mid corner... thats not a damper issue, but if if oversteers/understeers on corner entry and/or exit then your dampers may need some tweaking.
On to Tuning....
Since Dampers dont alter how much weight gets transfered or where it goes (Front VS Rear) whats the point in adjusting the valving??? Well, since dampers contol the speed of weight transfer, you can tweak them to force the chassis to transfer weight faster or slower on one end of the car Vs the other. How is this usefull in tuning.... Simple. Because weight transfer esentially reduces the amount of traction a car makes and Dampers control how quicky weight gets transfered, you can Tune the dampers to force the chassis to transfer weight quicker (front or rear) and force one end of the car to lose traction quicker, thus influenceing the oversteer/understeer balance of the car. So, if the car is understeering you want to either slow the rate of weight transfer at the front of the car, and/or increase the rate of weight transfer at the rear of the car. for tuning purposes... STIFFER VALVING (both bump and rebound) = Faster weight transfer.
Esentially, you end up increasing the valving on the end of the car you want to have "stick" less, and you decrease the valving on the end you want to have "stick" more.
Now, there are some other things to think about while tuning with dampers. Primairly, Increasing the valving on the nose of the car also has the side effect of increasing the responce rate of the cars steering.... meaning it will react quicker to your steering imputs. This is why people tend to feel that stiffer valving on the nose is better, simply because it "Feels" better. The car is reacting quicker to your steering imputs... and that has to be better right? Not nessisarly. See, Just because the car is initiating turns quicker, doesnt mean its acutally able to take that turn quicker (you are dialing in more understeer afterall, and understeer is slow) and as most autocrossers and road racers know... what "feels" Fast, ushually isnt. So you end up having to comprimise between chassis responce rate, and the oversteer/understeer balance if you are trying to make the car as fast as possible on track. For the street... well, most people tune to make the car "Feel" fast (which is why some people seem to feel that stiff springs and stiff valving = good handling)
Does any of this really matter for the street... probably not, because after all, tuning the car to be a tenth or so of a second faster in a turn isnt really something that you'd be able to notice on the street. but for compitition, a tenth saved per turn.... adds up quickly over the course of the track.
hopefully that sheds some light on the Tuning with Dampers issue.