EF8 Engine mount replacement.. help

[Dxs]

Ok, putting in 4 new engines mounts into my ef8.. but i am having difficulty with some of them..


I got the front in fine.. and the timing belt side mount will go in fine.. the original is out..


but the one on the gearbox seems impossible and i havent even looked at the rear..
http://i15.tinypic.com/4cwofio.jpg

if you see the gearbox mount there is a thread going up.. and because of the chassis you cant pull the mount up and off the thread.. and the bolts underneath the mount you cant really get access too..
so basically all the bolts on the mount are off but i cant get it off.


Also any tips on the rear.. is it possible to do?

[VT3C]

you need to undo the rear mount before you can get the bracket out.. is a complete bitch of a job to squeeze the bracket in/out ;) prepare for loads of swearing and bruised knuckles etc.

[Dxs]

well i have the sides and front in now..
just undid 3 of mounts to lower the engine so i could pull the gearbox mount off..


now onto the rear.. which is spose to be a real bitch because it is impossible to get to it


i just want to replace the mount.. so i shouldnt need to remove the bracket :/

[AUSVTEC]

Drop your steering rack down and it makes it simple.
Take the 4 bolts off the rack, pull the rackdwon slightly and lean it to the front of the engine bay and should be able to get it off.
Just watch the steel pipes you dont want to bend them, just pull the plastic clips of so the pipes can move a bit without resistance.
I can get pic to show you if you need.

[Dxs]

pics are always good..

so if i undo the 19mm bolts from the rack/rear subframe.. i dont need to undo other things like the steering arms to the hubs etc?
i would need to undo the exhaust as well?

[AUSVTEC]

You should be able to move the rack slightly without taking the arms off.
Your should try and lean the rack slightly towards the front end of the car just to get to the rear bolt, i only had to move the rack an inch at the most.
I dont think you need to undo the exhaust, mine was off already. It would help support the rack, i would use a jack aswell placed under the rack.
If i go to the workshop tonight ill take some pics.

[Dxs]

what car did you use this method on?
and are you talking about the whole subframe/crossmember?


i need to access the bolts from the top the rear mount

[PHAT1]

just drop the gearbox side down and get the trolly jack and leave it on the diff, then up or down up to you

[crxtasy]

Hi Dan, the way i do it is remove steering column covers and undo the column from the rack(10mm bolt).. mark the spline with something so you can re-align, then undo four rear crossmember bolts and drop the crossmember down.. makes it easier if the PS lines are popped out of their holders, no need to remove tie rod ends. You need two people when re-installing..one to line up the column spline to the rack inside the car and one underneath doing up the crossmember bolts. I removed the secondaries when i did mine to give easier access.

[Dxs]

thanks shaun..

how did you go about removing the rear mount..
did u undo the rear bracket from the engine first and then once it is down undo the mount and then remove the mount from the cross member?

[Dxs]

also is it ok to leave things like the LCA's swaybar etc etc still attrached to the crossmember when lowering it?

[Dxs]

this is the bolt you recommend undoing?
http://i3.tinypic.com/4uugfog.jpg
(http://i3.tinypic.com/4uugfog.jpg)

[fatboyz39]

goodluck changing the rear engine mount in a CRX.

I would recommend to take off the front mount where the gearbox is, so the engine could flex abit so you can get the rear mount out.

Take off the rear bracket.

[crxtasy]

yes that is the bolt i was on about. I removed the bracket first to get to the front bolt on the mount but removing the bracket is a bitch. There is still enough play with the sways still attached.

[Dxs]

ok, this is ending up to be a ****en royal ****..

i have the subframe dropped maybe 6cm.. doesnt want to go any further,
removed the 2-1 header
undid one of the shift linkages
front sussy forks are disconnected from lca's


i have the bolt that goes through the mount out..
there wasnt even a front bolt for the mount
one of the rears is loose the other is damn tight

i have been accessing the rear bolts from the back..
..


now does anyone want to tell me a method they used which was successful?
no room to get it from the top really

[ECU-MAN]

I have done this before,

I found the rear one was easy but the gearbox one was a bitch.

I didnt drop the subframe, but what I was undo all the bolts that hold the rear mount bracket to the block, then undo the mount and remove the mount, and fit new one. I fiited AVID ones ( wich is bulkier ), Then position the bracket in place and retighten all bolts.

lots of fun

[Dxs]

odd
i am almost done removing it..
taking my time because i cbf with it

gearbox side is real easy, remove the other side and front.. lower the engine and it comes out

[ECU-MAN]

gearbox side is real easy, remove the other side and front.. lower the engine and it comes out

lol, not when you fit a one peice mount :(

[Dxs]

i have a worklog thread on another forum.. thought i would post my install tips just incase someone finds this in the future



got the rear mount in finally.. absolute royal **** of a job.
there is a bit of improvement with the rear in.. but not a huge difference after the other three..
so if you plan to do this and are lazy, just do the other three.. most likely the rear will still be in ok shape anyway

the mount i got was said to be off an EF9 (and i trust the guy). Unfortunately it was slightly different to the mount in my car (i hear dc2 rear mounts are the same as well). I think it was just mine was a newer revision (it was wider and one piece). The mount that was in there only had 2 of the 3 bolts in as well.. so maybe someone replaced it? here is a pic of the difference
http://i14.tinypic.com/6806jo1.jpg
The one i put in had the yellow dots.. You may see the rear has like a wall inbetween the two mount holes.. i predicted this would make it harder to install so i grinded a bit off this mount to give better access to bolts, i am sure there was no structural loss due to this.. because i didnt hit any of the welds.. and the previous mount was missing a bolt anyway..

now onto the tips for install I hear some people might be doing mount swaps so hopefully these tips are handy
As i said it is a bitch.. The rear bolts are pretty much right against the firewall and impossible to access.. Some have said they have gotten to them using a universal joint etc.. but i bet they are shit talkers or had ED crx's. Most people say to dump the subframe.

Firstly jack up the car and make sure everything is safe, i removed the wheels and put them under the car for extra safety and use stands etc etc

Secondly, i removed the plastic shielding around the steering column and marked the spline on the column with some paint on a few spots so i could realign it later.. I then undid the spline to the clamp part of the column/rod.
http://i3.tinypic.com/4uugfog.jpg

Then i removed the splash tray in the drivers side wheel arch, i then got a couple of extensions and a universal joint to remove the bolt through the rear mount.

Now it is probably best to remove the secondaries on your headers and move them out the way for access.

Now you want to loosen the mounting bracket from the block, so undo the 2 bolts facing the passenger side and remove them. Now remove your intake pipe and loosen the bolt facing the drivers side, i did not remove this to make it easier so you dont have to fiddle trying to get it back in. It is a little tricky, but extensions etc are always good. You should now be able to jiggle the rear bracket.

Now this may be optional, but i did it. I undid the fork to LCA bolts and loosened the LCA's to subframe.

Now lower the exhaust a bit down and undo the heatshield for the exhaust so u can access the bottom of the shift linkages.. Firstly undo the stabiliser linkage to the gearbox and the one shift linkage under the shifter so that both linkage rods can be dropped.

Now basically undo the front sway from the lca's and the subframe.

Now undo the 4 bolts from the subframe/crossmember (some people even say the steering rack :/) itself.. to let the subframe drop.. Mine probably dropped around 8cm. This is why you need to undo the steering column.. you need to drop the subframe to access the rear bolts on the mount.

Hopefully your rear mount is the same as mine.. the 1 piece and not the 2 piece like i put in.. (if it is 2 piece i dont know how you could undo the bolts from the rear)
Now you should be able to undo the rear bolts using the ring side of a spanner.. not much room and a bitch if they are on hard.. This is why u needed to undo the sway and linkages as well.. to give some room.. it is worth spending time removing them for the easier access..

So you should eventually remove the rear bolts.. now for the front u can just use an extension and a ratchet to remove it from the top side (under your intake mani). You should then be able to jiggle the mount out, like twist it out on its side..


Now for reinstall, connect the mount to the subframe tight. Then get a friend to jack up the subframe while you align the column spline back in... you may need to lower it again and align if you dont get it right first go. Then tighten the spline up.

Now do up the subframe bolts loosely. Get a friend to put the bolt through the rear mount, you may need to lever the subframe a bit to get the bolt to go through to align the holes.. this is why it needs to be a bit loose.

now do up the the bolts for the bracket to the block.. again some levering may be needed.
Basically do everything up now.. and make sure everything is ok.. Maybe grease up a few things like shiftlinkage and swaybar bushes with some white lithium grease.