sqeaking wheels/brakes

[gbang007]

i got mags on my car, but only in the last few days, the front right i think i beggining to make funny sounds when i drive. it sounds like a rock is scratching against something when i drive and when i go along bumps etc the sounds gets louder. Also when i brake, the sound is fairly loud. Its not the squeaking sound that many cars get when braking. it sound like a rock is stuck in between the pads or something like that. the sound happens at all speeds, high/low and low/high compression braking so i have no idea what it is. i also have koni yellows which are gettin only.....7 years or so. anyone have any kind of suggestions....i dont expect an exact diagnosis but something in the right area to help me out. i am thinkin of takin it to a mechanic to get it inspected so i can tell him what area it is in too. cheers

[creativepunka]

How worn are the pads? if the are down to the wear indicator it will make a simillar noise to the one you described. Also its not uncommon for a rock to get stuck between the pad and the disk.

[dupac->]

i had a rock stuck in/around my brake pads.. but it flung out after afew seconds..
made a pretty loud sound mad CLANGING noise..

find someone with a air compressor and blow the brakes with an airgun.

if not just check ur brake pads dude.. coz my squeeking brakes sounded different to my parents car..
they got a 99 accord and it just ended up to be the pads.. and it sounded awful..

[blu3illusion84]

hope u put your hub rings on before u put your mags on ..

[Eclipsor]

Pretty sure the mags aren't new. Just the noise. You tried blasting a hose in there? Chuck a dollar in at car lovers or something and get the high pressure hose in there. Check for anything like the plastic wheel arch lining coming loose and rubbing.

[JasonGilholme]

Seen some people with something similiar. WD40 was the fix. Sounds like what a few mates have had and that fixed it up. Spray around the hub area on both sides and then take her for a drive to work it into the gaps to see if you can get watevers in there out.

[gbang007]

okay so what i am going to do is replace the rear brakes to see if it stops the screeching sound when braking as my old man said that the brakes are a bit thin at the back so i will try that and see how it does. the noise is actually coming from the rear and not the front as i first thought. there is a possibilty for some reason that i think it could be my koni's. When i go on slightly more bumpier roads, when the shocks get compressed more, there is a disctinct sound coming, similar to a sound when you press on a foot pump or something like that. like a compression sound where air is being pushed. this mainly happens when the shocks compress as it never happens during flat roads. is there anyway i can test them? coz they are kinda on the old side, about 7 years but i have been told they would be ok still.

[Eclipsor]

If you take the wheel off have a look at the shock. See if you can see any signs of fluid. Dirt sticking to it. Otherwise you'll have to take them out and compress them manually without the dust cover on and see if you can see them leaking. Or making noises.

[JasonGilholme]

that means no brakes or very ineffective brakes.

IF, and its a really big IF, WD40 does make its way onto the pads/rotor it will come off after 2 or so stops.

no brakes is bullshit, slightly less effective breaks MAYBE, and only for a small period of time.

Do i need a disclaimer for everything i say or are you gonna be anal and follow up all my posts with -ve PQ points. :thumbdwn:

[czy_sol87]

i've had a rock stuck between the heat sheild and my rotor, it sounded like the pads had gone, but i only just changed them, so i had to have a look and i found it in between stuck inside, i had to flick it out with a long screwdriver
oh btw it sounded like it was comin from the front of the car as well

[JasonGilholme]

me being anal = its centrifugal force not centrifical...

I'm talking from experience, not from reading books.

And like i said in PM, you'd obviously wipe off any overspray. I don't assume everyones a dumbshit, i give them some sort of credit.

[JasonGilholme]

Righto.

i love the caps man. thanks for callin me a dumbshit. hope it makes you feel better lol.

[aaronng]

Do not I repeat DO NOT spray any lubricant (including WD40) anywhere near the rotor or brake pads. If you do the chances of it being thrown off while driving and onto the pads or rotor are very good, and that means no brakes or very ineffective brakes. DON'T do it.

He's using WD40 as a cleaner, not a lube. Anyway, WD40 is a poor lube. Everyone uses anti-sieze on the pads and anti-sieze is a good lube. That gets on the rotors when you use your lubed up gloves to put the caliper back on.

So as with BASIC MECHANICS BRAKE CLASS number 1, "wipe off all braking surface of dirt and grease before driving".

[aaronng]

Using anti-seize on the pads is NOT the same thing. The pads are NOT part of the ROTATING WHEEL ASSEMBLY therefore don't sling off any excess as spraying any lube onto the ROTATING hub would. And JasonGilhome is using the wd-40 to silence a squeak that sounds like a lubricant not a cleaner to me as the topic of this post is squeaking wheels/brakes.

"Seen some people with something similiar. WD40 was the fix. Sounds like what a few mates have had and that fixed it up. Spray around the hub area on both sides and then take her for a drive to work it into the gaps to see if you can get watevers in there out."
From the highlighted part, he is describing the use of WD-40 as a cleaner.

We use our fingers to apply anti-sieze on the pads, and then use the same fingers to put the caliper back on and also ending up touching the rotor surface. So the rotor will have some anti-sieze on it. WD-40 also has a very low fire point of 188ºC. So after braking hard a few times, you would have achieved that temperature, causing the WD-40 to burn off.

[aaronng]

WD-40 is not a grease, it is not a good lube. It is a water displacement agent that works as an anti-rust penetrant.

In my repair manual is says that as well:
8. Wipe excess grease off the pads (A). Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the brake discs and pads.

That sounds like standard practice. If you have grease on your rotors, just wipe it off and degrease. You're making it out to be so catastrophic. It sounds like if I get grease on my rotors, that I should buy new ones since I won't be able to get it off at all.

[aaronng]

And direct from the WD-40 website

"With literally thousands of uses, WD-40 is the #1 multi-purpose problem solver. It cleans, protects, penetrates, lubricates and displaces moisture like no other product on earth."
I'm sure you know what marketing/advertising is. Even sewing machine oil is better than WD-40 as a lube. Have a look at http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html Looks like they are touting it more for use in corrosion prevention, degreasing/cleaning, penetrant and as a light lubricant.



There is only one substance that is factory approved for cleaning the braking surface of a rotor and that is denatured alcohol, pads even BRAND NEW ONES that are contaminated are BINNED by professionals because they know you can never get all of the contaminant off the braking surface.

He didn't say to use WD-40 to clean the surface of the rotor. He said to spray it into the hub. This will be a never ending discussion. But in real life, people will do things that you were taught are no-nos in automotive repair. I agree it doesn't make it a correct practice just because everyone does it too. BTW, denatured alcohol is just ethanol that is tainted with methanol to make it non-palatable. Hey, that's what methylated spirits is! It's not something so special that it was the only thing that performed well enough to be approved for rotor cleaning.