DIY PGMFI Diagnostics - Codes

[ECU-MAN]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!





Aim:

Read fault codes from PGMFI ECU to Diagnose and Repair the PGMFI system on your Honda.


Required:


- a Honda with a fault
- the ignition key

- Short Connector or bent paperclip
- the two pin SCS connector

or a scan tool and the 3 pin DLC connector.



The aim of this DIY is to find and diagnose a fault with your fuel injection system. Commonly known on Honda's as the PGMFI system. PGMFI is short for Programmed Fuel Injection.

This DIY covers the codes found on AUDM cars, although it can be adopted to JDM and USDM. These codes are the same for OBDO, OBDI, OBDIIa and OBDIIb. To retrieve codes from an OBDO vehicle you simply have to turn on the ignition switch to position II and look at the window on the PGMFI ECU and count the codes out from the flashing red LED, however on OBDI and OBDII cars, you are require to bridge what’s called "SCS" service check connector then turn the ignition on to position II, the yellow engine lamp on the dash known as "MIL" Malfunction Indicator Lamp will blink the codes.

Below is a list of fault codes found in the Honda PGMFI system.


0 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-0.gif) ECU (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1175675#post1175675) - Electronic Control Unit
1 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-1.gif) O2A (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69868) - Oxygen sensor #1
2 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-2.gif) O2B (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1246964#post1246964) - Oxygen sensor #2
3 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-3.gif) MAP (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67230) - Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
4 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-4.gif) CKP (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67763) - Crank Position sensor
5 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-5.gif) MAP (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67308) - Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
6 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-6.gif) ECT (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67460) - Engine Coolant Temp sensor
7 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-7.gif) TPS (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67309) - Throttle Position Sensor
8 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-8.gif) TDC (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1188961#post1188961) - Top Dead Centre sensor
9 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-9.gif) CYP (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1191226#post1191226) - Cylinder Position sensor
10 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-10.gif) IAT (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67515) - Intake Air Temperature sensor
12 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-12.gif) EGR (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1196533#post1196533) - Exhaust Gas Recirculation lift valve
13 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-13.gif) BARO (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68095) - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-14.gif) EACV (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67625) - (IAC) - Electronic Air Control Valve
15 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-15.gif) IOS (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68096) - Ignition Output Signal
16 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-16.gif) INJ (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68110) - Fuel Injectors
17 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-17.gif) VSS (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68441) - Vehicle Speed Sensor
19 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-19.gif) ATLC - Automatic Transmission Lockup Control Valve
20 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-20.gif) ELD (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1209782#post1209782) - Electrical Load Detector
21 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-21.gif) VTS (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68997) - VTEC Spool Solenoid
22 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-22.gif) VTP (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69220) - VTEC Pressure valve
23 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-23.gif) KS (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69306) - Knock sensor
41 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-41.gif) PO2H (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68798) - Primary Oxygen Sensor Heater
42 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-42.gif) SO2H (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1228698#post1228698) - Secondary Oxygen Sensor Heater
43 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-43.gif) FSS (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70240) - Fuel Supply System



- click on the fault code number above for an example of the MIL

- click on the sensor name for a DIY diagnostics of the sensor


STEP 1


locate your SCS connector. its a blue two pin female connector that looks like this.




http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-mil-001.jpghttp://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-mil-002.jpg





STEP 2


Plug in the Short Connector. If you don't have a short connector use a paperclip to bridge the two metal pins in the connector. see pic below


http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-001.jpg


I have made my own Short Connector from an old harness I had. I put a switch on the end, this helps for when you work with SRS and ABS systems.




STEP 3

Turn on the Ignition Switch to Position II, but do not start the car. If the PGMFI system is all OK, then with the Short connector plugged in and the Ignition ON, you will get the MIL stay on constantly with no flashes. see below picture MIL is shown in yellow circle


http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-mil-nocodes.jpg


If you are having troubles with your car, then it may be related to the Ignition system like Ignition leads or coil or even a blocked fuel filter or air filter, main relay or fuel pump. The computer cannot monitor these and will not know if they are at fault.





STEP 4

Record the fault codes on a piece of paper so you can cross reference the codes. The Codes are flashed out as followed.


Tens are represented by a long flash of the MIL
Units are represented by a short quick flash of the MIL

example, code 43 ( fuel supply system )

long long long long quick quick quick


the ECU will pause for two seconds and repeat the fault code again. read the codes out at least twice to make sure you have the correct code recorded.

it is possible to have multiple codes in the ECU, if you do, you get 1 code then a 2 second wait then the next code.

below is an example of code 43 and to the right code 41 and code 1


http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-code-43.gif............................................ ...http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-mil-code-41-1.gif






A trap for noobs.

- don’t confuse code 10 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-10.gif) for code 1 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-1.gif)
- don’t confuse code 1 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-1.gif) for code 10 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-10.gif)
- don’t confuse code 2 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-2.gif) for code 20 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-20.gif)
- don’t confuse code 20 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-20.gif) for code 22 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-22.gif)
- don’t confuse code 20 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-20.gif) for code 2 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-2.gif)

you get the picture



that’s it, you have read the fault codes out of the ECU. now if your brave, click the link ( if it exists ) of the code you have and try to diagnose and repair the problem.


look bellow for SCS, ECU locations and on how to reset the ECU.



OBDO

for OBDO cars locate the the ECU which is usually under the passangers floorwell carpet. Pull the carpet back and you should see this


http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-MIL-ed.jpg



- located in the green circle in the pic above is a hole with a red LED in it. If there is a fault code stored in ECU memory it will blink out the code an the same manner as described above with the MIL when the ignition switch is in the II position. If all is OK with the PGMFI system then you will get a quick flicker of the LED when the ignition switch is turned on and the LED will stay off.




.



Note: I nor OzHonda.com take no responsibility if you mis-diagnose or simply replace a sensor for no reason and get stuck with an expensive part you can’t return.

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

[ECU-MAN]

SCS location


bellow is a list of cars, click on the link for a picture of the SCS location



- 1992 to 1996 Preludes (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-1994-prelude-001.jpg)

- 1997 to 200x Preludes

- 1992 to 1995 Civic EG

- 1996 to 2002 EK, EM , EJ (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-ekejem-001.jpg)

- 1992 to 1997 CRX EG2 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-1994-crx-001.jpg)

- 1999 to 2005 S2000 (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-s2000.jpg)

- 1990 to 1993 Accords

- 1994 to 1996 Accords (http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-1994-accord-001.jpg)



If anyone has a picture of the SCS location not listed here please send it to me to help update the list

[ECU-MAN]

Reset ECU



Reset the PGMFI ECU

most OBDI and OBDIIa and OBDIIb cars is just a matter of finding the 7.5Amp backup fuse in the underhood fues box and pulling it out for 3 or so seconds. Anything longer than 10 seconds really is a waits of time.



http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/reset/95-BB6-4WS-ECU-repair007.jpg

*** note the above picture is a guide only and may not show the actual fuse you should pull in your car. ***


If you cant find the fuse or are having trouble resetting the ECU, then you can remove the negative battery terminal ( for 3 to 10 seconds ) to clear the ECU memory as a sure way to get it reset. This method isn’t the best as you have to put in the radio code and reset the radio station presets plus the clock.


There are lots of myths going around like remove the fuse for 10 minuets or disconnect the battery and turn on the head light and touch the battery terminals together to drain the power from the ECU ect. All false.



For the S2000 you have to remove the 30A backup fuse in the underhood fuse box.



http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/reset/S2000-fuesbox30A.jpg




After resetting the ECU with OBDO and OBDI cars your right to go. However with OBDII cars you have to "learn" the idle load parameters to the ECU. This can be done by turning off all electrical accessories in the car ( turn everything off in the car and only let it idle ) and allowing the car to idle until the thermo fans kick in and out at least twice. Then turn off the car and your done.


No need to drive the car and rev it to redline or anything else like that.



Thanks to CRXer, here is the ECU reset fues for 1988- 89 GEN II CRX with OBDO

http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/reset/ed9-obdo.jpg


Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

[ECU-MAN]

code 19 coming soon !!!

[wynode]

People are gonna go crazy when they see this!

PS: Sif bump your own threads :p

[TheGoodDeal]

Excellent write up, very details, clear picture & examples and confusion point out.
Thanks!!

[CRXer]

WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holy crap,this should be stickied to every tech section of every honda forum that ever existed.

At least sticky it to the top of the DIY section,it would be easier to link up to every question that was ever asked.

Heres my humble contribution:

ECU LED location for OBD0 versions(maybe should put in the SCS location post)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g268/CRXer/IMG_1391_1_1.jpg

ECU reset fuse for CRX gen2 & prob other similar era cars like integra.Marked "HAZARD" fuse.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g268/CRXer/IMG_1387_2_1.jpg

PS: must spread rep around,blah,i owe u one

[xedent]

I have a 96 ej8 coupe and i cant find the SCS connector even if i look at the pic that you uploaded for my car, its not there, there is only the yellow one behind it.

[ECU-MAN]

try looking on the oppisite side where the ecu is.

[xedent]

try looking on the oppisite side where the ecu is.

I have looked under there all, cant find anything :(

[dynosaur]

well done , ECU-MAN :)

[ECU-MAN]

I have looked under there all, cant find anything :(

have a good look near the ecu area on the left kick pannel, it might be tucked in under there, you may have to remove the cover for a good look. look hard you will find it in a green rubber holser along with the 3 pin DLC connector..





well done , ECU-MAN :)
thanks dude

[xedent]

I will take some pics of it all when i get some time, i swear its not there, i have pulled my glove box out and the cover off and everything. :(

thanks anyways

[ECU-MAN]

sometimes they are hard to see as they blend in with the wiring loom well.

[JohnnyVtec]

Awesome work! Well presented, Simple terms, Effective!



I tried to add to your rep but didn't work... not like you need it anyways LOL






Cheers Mang!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Phuong1987]

is Ek1 99 model obdIIa or b, i know Ek1 95-98 is obdIIa

[Lukezen27]

Very Nice right-up bro :thumbsup:

Code 21 VTS - VTEC Spool Solenoid

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-21.gif

Two long followed by one short pules

Now how to fix it as I only get it with e-manage plugged in lol

Thanks guys

Luke

[ECU-MAN]

is Ek1 99 model obdIIa or b, i know Ek1 95-98 is obdIIa

EK1 is OBDII but it does not use the standard OBDIIa ot OBDIIb connectors.

[ECU-MAN]

Very Nice right-up bro :thumbsup:

Code 21 VTS - VTEC Spool Solenoid

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-21.gif

Two long followed by one short pules

Now how to fix it as I only get it with e-manage plugged in lol

Thanks guys

Luke

can you explain your setup bit more, are you running a standard honda ecu with emanage piggy backed onto it. if so what is the emanage doing to the vtec solenoid. ig you have run a wire from the VTEC sol to the emanage then from the emanage to the VTEC sol then the ECU will not sense the the resistance of the VTEC sol giving you code 21.

[Lukezen27]

can you explain your setup bit more, are you running a standard honda ecu with emanage piggy backed onto it. if so what is the emanage doing to the vtec solenoid. ig you have run a wire from the VTEC sol to the emanage then from the emanage to the VTEC sol then the ECU will not sense the the resistance of the VTEC sol giving you code 21.

Hey ECU-MAN

Yeah e-manage into the standard ECU (P28) but I'm using the plug & Play harness (H-3) so all wires should be correct already?

[beeza]

Thanks so much ECUMAN!!!

On my 96 EK1 Civic Sedan the plug is green and is located above the ECU (front passenger kick panel).The plug is a soft green plastic and just hangs free.

[ECU-MAN]

Hey ECU-MAN

Yeah e-manage into the standard ECU (P28) but I'm using the plug & Play harness (H-3) so all wires should be correct already?

is the emanage device taking control of VTEC xover point

[Lukezen27]

is the emanage device taking control of VTEC xover point

I would think so

That's why I brought the plug & play

[ECU-MAN]

the ECU looks for the resistance of the VTEC Sol, but since it goes to the emanage and not the VTEC sol there is no resistance so you get a code.

I can modify you ecu not to look for the VTEC sol but just to assume it is there if you need.

[Lukezen27]

the ECU looks for the resistance of the VTEC Sol, but since it goes to the emanage and not the VTEC sol there is no resistance so you get a code.

I can modify you ecu not to look for the VTEC sol but just to assume it is there if you need.

Cool

Thanks for the info, I assumed it was something like that.

So how do I mod my ECU not to look for it?

[ECU-MAN]

modifying the ECU is not a simple procedure I cant just explain to you, but you can try a 5w resistor on the VTEC wire from the ECU to ground, that also may fool the ECU

[Lukezen27]

modifying the ECU is not a simple procedure I can just explain to you, but you can try a 5w resistor on the VTEC wire from the ECU to ground, that also may fool the ECU

Thanks bro :thumbsup:

Yeah I found this last night
http://hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=158&sid=ac8c507030345f82182341ce4c1bd834

Same problem and same solution

[agent86]

ecu man i got a code 3 (manifold absolute pressure sensor) how do i fix this

[beeza]

You may have to change yor Map Sensor on top of the Throttle.But follow these steps or take it to your mechanic that can follow these steps:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67230

Traders on here will have a spare sensor lying around.PM Andy at AK Motorworks if you need one.

[ETHNIC_RU$H]

cant you also disconnect the battery for like 5mins and the ecu will reset? as the lights flick when you connect it again as i heard this from a few ppl

[dsp26]

cant you also disconnect the battery for like 5mins and the ecu will reset? as the lights flick when you connect it again as i heard this from a few ppl

yes but why when when its far less hassle to pull the fuse...

with battery you have to use a spanner, etc plus you lose any audio settings.. whole process just takes longer than simply pulling a fuse

[bal]

i tried to do this test with my ECU (kpro) and the light didnt blink at all it just went off and stayed off, but when i turn my car on the ECU light stays on. any suggestions??

[ECU-MAN]

cant you use the Hondata software to read the codes with your computer.

being a Kpro system it could be a setting that is causing this

[bal]

i have checked the error codes from the software and these are the error codes.

error 1: daughterboard communication error (battery voltage low when cracking)

error 2: 41-1 P1166 heated oxygen sensor Sensor1 (primary H20S) heater circut malfunction

i have no idea what these mean any help appreciated.

[ECU-MAN]

1, try another battery in your car.
2, http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68798

[Lukezen27]

All the links to the codes have died ECU-MAN

[ECU-MAN]

fixed

[ZCroofrack]

I had a code 71 on the tegra. Did a search and found the rest of em.

Cheers.

45 System Too Rich or Too Lean
48 Primary Heated O-2 Sensor
54 Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor
61 Primary O-2 Sensor Circuit
63 Secondary O-2 Sensor Circuit
65 Secondary O-2 Sensor Circuit
67 Catalyst System
70 Automatic Transaxle
71-74 Random Misfire
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation
86 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Circuit
92 Evaporative Emission Control System Insufficient

[CRXer]

I had a code 71 on the tegra. Did a search and found the rest of em.



u got 71 on a '89 LS???

u upgraded to obd2???

what ecu & do u have crank sensor installed?

[ZCroofrack]

Um it's a stock 89 LS obd 0, as far as I can tell, LED in the computer under carpet to read the code.

Shorted the two pin plug....
7 slow flashes, then 1 quick flash, then a pause then the same code again.

I'm gonna check it again tomorrow to see if something else comes up lol.

[ECU-MAN]

you dont short the 2 pin plug on OBDO

[CRXer]

hey john,just a suggestion,maybe simplify the title of the thread or put some more user friendly tags too it.

[ECU-MAN]

yeah I know what you mean, Ill give it some thought. and PM me if you have any good idea's

[ZCroofrack]

Oh, okay. Cheers for that.

[ZCroofrack]

Still showed the same code even with the pins not shorted.
7 slow flashes and 1 quick flash...

[CRXer]

just reset the ecu & see if the code returns

i cant remember how OBD0 codes flash,but i got a vague recollection of a quick flash at the beginning of every code string,maybe im wrong,but u could be looking at a code 7 instead if u know what i mean.

[ECU-MAN]

as above, check the TPS and O2 sensor,

I dont remember code 71 from the OBD0 days

[qikteg]

if the window light on an OBD0 stays on at ignition II, what is that usually indicating?

(added to that, the main relay doesn't appear to be working, but i can get the starter motor to crank)

[ECU-MAN]

dead ECU dude,

or poor wiring, but more dead ECU

[qikteg]

Could be poor wiring. it was a massive DIY re-wire, so i'll go through and recheck all that first, from beginning to end.

would a dead ECU be a cause for the main relay to not operate properly, because i've checked the wiring for that, and fixed it all up, but its still no good.

[CRXer]

if it were factory wiring,then ECUMAN prob right,but it your case prob more wiring fault,u should post some more details with question next time.

if dead main relay then u prob have no ignition power to ECU,check & see if ign power before & after main relay when key on first.

[aozora]

Any idea on flashing EPS signals on a '99 S2000?
I got 22...

[ECU-MAN]

code 22 is

excessive change in vehicle speed sensor signal
or
a problem with average for vehicle speed and engine speed

basicly if you have been reving the car higher than 2000rpm for longer than 3 min and the vehicle speed is less than 1KM/h you will get code 22,

reset your EPS ECU and if the problem comes back you have to check the rear WSS signal to the EPS ECU

[beeza]

Need help ASAP.

I have a code 15 IOS - Ignition Output Signal

I think I fried my ICM.Help,is this the case?

Here! (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68096&highlight=code)

[twing]

Just want to contribute:
ej8 scs connector is next to fuse box.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5100/tnscsconnector1.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/i/tnscsconnector1.jpg/)

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/7559/tnscsconnector2.jpg (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/tnscsconnector2.jpg/)

[tiksie]

Code #36 on P30 ecu for traction control, just thought I'd throw it up there if anyone gets it on their B16A :p

[IANP]

Good write up :)
I have an EK4 and there is a seperate set of fault codes for the ABS computer which gets put out at the same time.
Does anybody have these ABS fault codes handy?
Thanks

[VTec1987]

hey john
My first time working on Obd0 cars.

If the the LED from ecu blinks, does the Mil light blinks with it?

The LED from Ecu blinks but the Mil light is solid. Any help would be great

[ECU-MAN]

MIL is not ment to blink with the LED for faults,

only go by the LED in the ECU for codes

[VTec1987]

oh ok, car im currently working on, the led doesn't blink but the MIL remains on.
Main rely was changed recently if that helps

[KeyMan]

My car's CEL came on while driving today but when I did the bridging of the SCS connector to check, all I get are ABS codes. The CEL doesn't flash, it just stays on. My car is an EJ8, is there another way to check? I heard I'm supposed to look at an actual LED light on the ECU itself rather than the CEL on the dash? Another thing I've heard is that the code gets deleted if I turn off the engine?

[ECU-MAN]

I would not go by what you heard as its wrong

go by what you read in this thread, I suspect you have not bridged the correct 2 pin connector

was it blue ? did it have a 3 pin connector next to it ?

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-ekejem-001.jpg

[KeyMan]

I would not go by what you heard as its wrong

go by what you read in this thread, I suspect you have not bridged the correct 2 pin connector

was it blue ? did it have a 3 pin connector next to it ?

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/PGMFI-scs-ekejem-001.jpg

My car is an EJ8 and I went by what twing said. It was on the driver's side next to the fuse box. It was blue and had 2 pins. Next to it, there's a socket for another connector to plug in to but my car appears to be missing it?

I have searched many threads with the location of the SCS being all over the place. I couldn't find any 2 pin connectors other than the place twing has shown in my car.


Just want to contribute:
ej8 scs connector is next to fuse box.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5100/tnscsconnector1.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/i/tnscsconnector1.jpg/)

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/7559/tnscsconnector2.jpg (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/tnscsconnector2.jpg/)

[KeyMan]

Ok, I took my car to the mechanic today to get it scanned by an OBDII reader but it said there were no codes! This is very strange because I had the CEL come on so there should definetly be a code stored.

The strange thing is, the three pin connector was not in the blue housing. It was connected to this gray socket:
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9066/img021nd.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/827/img021nd.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

But it doesn't look like the gray socket goes anywhere...
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2861/img023el.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/94/img023el.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Would this have an effect in clearing the codes somehow? Is that why I'm getting no codes even though my CEL came on?

[ECU-MAN]

the blue 2pin is the SCS and the blue 3 pin is the DLC, the 3 pin DLC should not be connected to anything.

try shorting the 2 pin blue connector again.

[egb16b]

quick question ECU-MAN

After shorting the SCS, the CEL just stays on.. I'm pretty sure the ECU is gone but I could be wrong. The engine cranks but doesn't start.

Just some further info, cars been sitting for about 6 months.. hasn't started since the car was flooded.. I'm pretty sure it's the ecu but I could be wrong.

Help please..

[ECU-MAN]

The Engine Lamp staying on is normal when the SCS is bridged,

the flooding does not sound good. first change your spark plugs and see if she starts.

does the fuel pump prime ?

if you can remove the ECU and take photos of the PCB front and back and PM me the pics. The ECU could have suffered from corrosion inside.

[egb16b]

I've tested my ecu on another car and it works so its not my ecu.. i'm not getting any other codes so i'm guessing it's something to do with my ignition.

the fuel pump primes. gonna test to see if i get spark.

thanks for your help.

[ECU-MAN]

did the water level go above the boot level ?

[egb16b]

I'm not sure exactly how high it reached.. The car was at my cousins house when it happen.

I just did a comp test on the car.. Cyl 1 = 125, Cyl 2,3,4 = 175.

So cylinder 1 is way down.. Obviously that's not good.. but can this be the cause of the car not starting.. not enough compression in cylinder 1 to start.. ??

[ECU-MAN]

no

the engine will even start if there was no compresson in that cylinder

[egb16b]

yeah i thought so..

another thing that's trippy.. i can hear my main relay constanly clicking when the ignition is ON.. it clicks like.. click,click ..... click,click ..... click,click .....
main relay on the way out??? not grounded properly???
fuel pump is priming so main relay should be working right??

thanks for your help dude!

[ECU-MAN]

the main relay also powers the ECU, but the ECU first activates the relay, so If your relay is clicking then the realy or ECU could be at fault.

[egb16b]

It ended being the dizzy..I checked each lead for spark which came up good..then checked dizzy - no spark.

Changed and she starts.

Thanks for your help ECU-MAN.

[dangerjbl]

I found my plug in EG5 under drivers side near the hood release
Problem is its only got one wire (looks white) if there was another wire in there it must have been pinned out and i cant seem to find it or know what colour im looking for.
Does anyone know what colour the other wire is or where i should be looking (what part of the loom) it comes from?

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g381/dangerjbl/DSC05630.jpg

[Lukezen27]

I found my plug in EG5 under drivers side near the hood release
Problem is its only got one wire (looks white) if there was another wire in there it must have been pinned out and i cant seem to find it or know what colour im looking for.
Does anyone know what colour the other wire is or where i should be looking (what part of the loom) it comes from?


EG5 D16Y1
ECU P28 odb1

Can't place that plug though

http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd1.pin.schematics.gif

[dangerjbl]

hey man as the thread was talking about was to find the 2pin SCS plug to bridge the connection so your able to check for error codes, mine is missing one wire so i was asking what wire should be in there, the diagram you posted do you have one for the P72 ecu?

[Lukezen27]

hey man as the thread was talking about was to find the 2pin SCS plug to bridge the connection so your able to check for error codes, mine is missing one wire so i was asking what wire should be in there, the diagram you posted do you have one for the P72 ecu?

Why do you have an odb2 in your EG5? hahah

Anywheres as its the bridge connector there's no actual plug socket on the ECU to cheat and find the missing wire DOH!!

Can't be that hard to find one lost wire haha anyway 7 & 8 pins on C socket for odb2


http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/wiring/obd2a/plugs.jpg
(http://javascript%3cb%3e%3c/b%3E:;)

http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/wiring/obd2a/obd2a.pin.schematics.gif

[dangerjbl]

LOL
My P72 plugs are 26 / 16 / 22 which is OBD-1 early model JDM B18C
My EG5 is obviously OBD-1

Im not even talking about my ecu anyways,
As i was asking about the plug located under the DRIVER SIDE the two pin SCS connector to read fault codes, thats what this thread was posted about.


This DIY covers the codes found on AUDM cars, although it can be adopted to JDM and USDM. These codes are the same for OBDO, OBDI, OBDIIa and OBDIIb. To retrieve codes from an OBDO vehicle you simply have to turn on the ignition switch to position II and look at the window on the PGMFI ECU and count the codes out from the flashing red LED, however on OBDI and OBDII cars, you are require to bridge what’s called "SCS" service check connector then turn the ignition on to position II, the yellow engine lamp on the dash known as "MIL" Malfunction Indicator Lamp will blink the codes.


So...
Does anyone know the colours of the wires to the "SCS Plug" in an EG5?

[Lukezen27]

LOL
My P72 plugs are 26 / 16 / 22 which is OBD-1 early model JDM B18C
My EG5 is obviously OBD-1

Im not even talking about my ecu anyways,
As i was asking about the plug located under the DRIVER SIDE the two pin SCS connector to read fault codes, thats what this thread was posted about.
So...
Does anyone know the colours of the wires to the "SCS Plug" in an EG5?

Fair enough but don't get pushy mate!

The ECU pin-outs are so you can read what colours are missing

What colour is the wire still in the plug?

Brown or white?
light blue or light green?

I re-wired most of my EG5's dashboard some years back but as the data-link wires won't a problem I didn't notice their colours

[ECU-MAN]

I found my plug in EG5 under drivers side near the hood release
Problem is its only got one wire (looks white) if there was another wire in there it must have been pinned out and i cant seem to find it or know what colour im looking for.
Does anyone know what colour the other wire is or where i should be looking (what part of the loom) it comes from?

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g381/dangerjbl/DSC05630.jpg


this is not the SCS,its for the fog lights SCS will be on the pasangers side near the ECU

[dangerjbl]

Cheers EcuMan i had a pretty good look on the passenger near the ecu but didnt find anything,
ill remove the glovebox see what behind there.

.............

I found it behind the glove box for anyone else looking.