What Oil?

[chrisjlim]

Hey guys, just wondering if you can help me with this.
I know this topic has already been done
but i am still confused on which oil to use for my integra and what grade.

i got a 95 integra VTIR thats just done 155 000kms

any suggestions which oil and grade to use?

also, the last mechanic to service my car (honda) gave me a reminder that my next service was at 160 000km, but he serviced my car at 150 000km.

Am i suppose to service the car every 5000 or 10 000kms?

[bennjamin]

ok - this is an olld topic. Moved to noob forum

For your car - honda FEO ( 10w 30w) is perfect) Use it or a similar oil rated the same.

You are supposed to service your car every 5,000k interval (oil change).
Every 10,000k interval you change the oil filter too.


At other intervals ( every 15k , 20k , 40k etc) there is a range of parts to be replaced and fluids to be replaced/checked.

[solitz]

yeah u can use FEO or maybe even use a full synthetic oil if it fits into ur budget...like shell or mobil 1

[aaronng]

yeah u can use FEO or maybe even use a full synthetic oil if it fits into ur budget...like shell or mobil 1

More important than whether it is mineral or synthetic is the viscosity. The viscosity must be within the correct range for the engine. The b18c is meant to use 10w-30, so if it has many kms and burning a bit of oil, you can use a 10w-40 instead.

[55EXX]

you will find 10-40 sweet. i use 10-40 in my '00 civic that has 125k. i use a full ester synthetic but i wouldn't use a mineral oil. there is alot of oil technology used in synthetics that reduce engine wear by a appreciable amounts and also have additives that unlock power by creating a lower coefficient of friction between moving parts.

[aaronng]

you will find 10-40 sweet. i use 10-40 in my '00 civic that has 125k. i use a full ester synthetic but i wouldn't use a mineral oil. there is alot of oil technology used in synthetics that reduce engine wear by a appreciable amounts and also have additives that unlock power by creating a lower coefficient of friction between moving parts.

You can even use the cheaper hydrocracked synthetics for an engine that is not high strung. The VTIR would be happier with at least a PAO synthetic though.

[EG30]

I changed the oil in our DC2R some 4000kms ago with Castol Edge 5W30 earlier this year. The engine has done 110,000kms with full service history with prev oil change every 10,000kms at the most and every 5000kms at times.

So far it hasn't used any oil at all in our car despite I rev past the redline and change just prior the cut out at 8800rpm or so and the oil.

at $48-50 for 5L it's great value.

you can always try it, if your motor use oil between oil changes ( 10,000km as per manufacturer rec or at 5000km if you are fastidious) then use a thicker oil such as Shell Helix 5W40 for around $50 also.

there is also the Mobil 1 10w30, but very $$$ for such a viscosity, hardly cheaper then the Mobil 1 0w40.

personally I always prefers to go for the 5w30 and change every 5000kms unless the engine burns it too much. If I use 5w40 or even the $$$ 0w40 I can feel the greater resistance from the thicker oil at operating temps and the dulling of the throttle response.

For some Euro cars where longlife oils are a requirement with drain intervals typically over 15,000kms and sometimes close to 20,000kms in late Models M-Benz, Audis, VWs and BMWs; that's where the more $$$ ester based and PAOs come in, most commonly in 0w40 that's is certified for longlife for the particular car manufacturer ie 229.5 for MBenz petrol engines, LL(year digits) for BMW. In the Castrol Edge range, the 5W30 and 0W40 meets the still pretty strict M-Benz 229.3 standard but not the longlife 229.5 std ( lesser oils meet only their 229.1 standard, often not even ). You need to buy the Castrol SLX 0W40 for the 229.5 grade oil though Castrol stress that the Edge 0W40 is very close to that of its SLX counterpart; or buy the Mobil 1 0W40 off the shelf with 229.5 certification.

So in a nutshell, there are oils out there which are derived from technically superior base stock with a longer service life than the Edge 5w30, but in your application I can't see the benefits of it.

[TheSaint]

i would definatly recommend honda FEO 10w30, i switched to that in my 94 vtir teg and it is alot smoother than anything that was in it before

[aaronng]

For the benefit of others,

Hydrocracked synthetic: Castrol Edge 5w-30
PAO: Mobil1, Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40, Castrol Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100 5w-40, Royal Purple
Ester: Motul 300V, Redline.

[Drew]

Might pay to change the oil filter every time you do your oil
OEM Filters are like $10-$15 anyway

[aaronng]

^^ yup, I do that every oil change.

[drsilliez]

Might pay to change the oil filter every time you do your oil
OEM Filters are like $10-$15 anyway

where do u buy the OEM oil filters from? how abt the honda engine oils?

[bennjamin]

from a honda parts department. Or try some local shops sometimes stock honda fluids and parts.

[EG30]

For the benefit of others,

Hydrocracked synthetic: Castrol Edge 5w-30, Castrol Edge 25w-50
PAO: Mobil1, Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40, Castrol Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100 5w-40, Royal Purple
Ester: Motul 300V, Redline.

Castrol Edge 25W-50 synthetic? Don't think so...It's the old Castrol GP50 mineral based oil design for old Oz and American cars which was then re-labelled as part of the Formula R line up in the mid 90s which was relaunched as the Edge series last year.

[aaronng]

Castrol Edge 25W-50 synthetic? Don't think so...It's the old Castrol GP50 mineral based oil design for old Oz and American cars which was then re-labelled as part of the Formula R line up in the mid 90s which was relaunched as the Edge series last year.

Oh yeah, you're right. No wonder it is only SG-rated. Thanks. :thumbsup:

[jklo]

I need some advice in regards to motor oils. Does the car suffer in performance if I use a different type oil eg: from mineral to synthetic? I have a b16a with around 150k km and before I was using the honda FEO oil and it ran smooth and sweet. After that I did an oil change to a fully synthectic oil and I feel that the car is abit sluggish... not as responsive and explosive as before.

[aaronng]

I need some advice in regards to motor oils. Does the car suffer in performance if I use a different type oil eg: from mineral to synthetic? I have a b16a with around 150k km and before I was using the honda FEO oil and it ran smooth and sweet. After that I did an oil change to a fully synthectic oil and I feel that the car is abit sluggish... not as responsive and explosive as before.

What oil and viscosity are you using now?
As I have told many others before, changing between synthetic and mineral has less difference in performance than the viscosity that you are changing to.

[jklo]

The same viscosity... Unless the mechanic puts a different oil to what i suggested. Does the viscosity affect the performance? Eg. a thicker oil making the car less willing to rev or sluggish?

[aaronng]

The same viscosity... Unless the mechanic puts a different oil to what i suggested. Does the viscosity affect the performance? Eg. a thicker oil making the car less willing to rev or sluggish?
Did you supply your own oil? That's usually the only way to ensure you get the right oil that you want in your car. Even so, there is always a risk that a dodgy mechanic keeps your $60-70 oil and uses the oil in his drum.

Yes, a thicker oil does make your car less willing to rev or feel sluggish. The effect going from 10w-30 (FEO-level viscosity) to a 5/10w-50 (Mobil1 silver viscosity) is similar to driving on a warm day.

[jklo]

I think i'll stick back to honda feo oils.

Will one company's 10w 30 differ from other brand's 10w 30?

Thanks for all the info aarong been informative!

[aaronng]

I think i'll stick back to honda feo oils.

Will one company's 10w 30 differ from other brand's 10w 30?

Thanks for all the info aarong been informative!

You need an oil that is sufficient in quality. FEO is good, (better than the Magnatec that was used in my Euro and GTX3 that was used in the Astra). But as with all mineral oils, they don't last as long as synthetics. So FEO is good but you have to change your oil often, especially if you drive hard. Changing every 5000km is good (if you don't do as many kms in 6 months, still change it).

[chrisjlim]

thanks guys for the response! much appreciated~

would i still want to use FEO even if my internals have been
reconditioned? with new racing pistons, upgraded valves, and laser spark plugs?

im not sure what pistons, valves were put into it, it was done when i purchased the car, and it was done by my friends uncle a year ago.

[aaronng]

thanks guys for the response! much appreciated~

would i still want to use FEO even if my internals have been
reconditioned? with new racing pistons, upgraded valves, and laser spark plugs?

im not sure what pistons, valves were put into it, it was done when i purchased the car, and it was done by my friends uncle a year ago.

Are you using aftermarket cams, aftermarket ECU or piggyback? What is your redline and compression ratio now?

People use FEO because of cost. They change their oil often that it gets pricey using a synthetic. There is no doubt that a synthetic of the proper viscosity is usually better than FEO, which is mineral.

[chrisjlim]

yeah i got aftermarket cams
no aftermarket ecu or piggback
redline is standard VTIR
and i believe compression ratio is the same
unless the new pistons and stuff changed it
but again, im not sure what he chucked on

im stupid enough not to ask and stuff, just got drawn into the whole modifying thing

[aaronng]

yeah i got aftermarket cams
no aftermarket ecu or piggback
redline is standard VTIR
and i believe compression ratio is the same
unless the new pistons and stuff changed it
but again, im not sure what he chucked on

im stupid enough not to ask and stuff, just got drawn into the whole modifying thing

You can always contact your friend to ask his uncle on what was done to the engine. Also, why are you running aftermarket cams without an ECU or at least a piggyback? Look at that first. If it was my engine, I would use at least Castrol Edge 5w-30 ($48) if you were worried about cost or go for something more expensive like Motul 8100 5w-40 ($65) or Castrol Edge 0w-40 ($70) if you needed something thicker. To modify an engine to what your engine has is not cheap since the internals were changed, so look after that engine. :thumbsup:

[chrisjlim]

What i can remember was that he use to change the oil
with mobil 1? i think it was a silver bottle, with a grade of 10w-30? or something like that. is there a mobil 1 oil with that grade?

[aaronng]

What i can remember was that he use to change the oil
with mobil 1? i think it was a silver bottle, with a grade of 10w-30? or something like that. is there a mobil 1 oil with that grade?

The silver Mobil1 is 5w-50. If it is running great now, stick with that. Just find out if your friend's uncle used forged pistons. If he did, then stick to the silver Mobil1.

[chrisjlim]

okay i just read what he chucked in my engine.

synthetic oil with double frame oil filter
4 copper pistons 1.8ml flat platinum
4 laser sparkplugs

[chrisjlim]

including larger cams
new gaskets
upgraded valves

[aaronng]

Ask him if the clearance for the piston and rings are the same as stock. If it is same as stock, use a 5w-40 oil like Motul 8100. If the clearance is bigger than stock, then stick to silver Mobil1 5w-50.

[chrisjlim]

got told by my friend, that his uncle use to chuck in
motul 300v chrono oil
in my engine and his