Any best Synthetic Oil for euro?

[rocwang]

My euro near 10k service, so just think about which engine oil I will put in?

I really like MOTUL oil, but MOTUL have lots of types:
300V LE MANS 20W60
300V COMPETITION 15W50
300V CHRONO 10W40
300V POWER 5W40
300V POWER RACING 5W30
300V HIGH-RPM 0W20

Which one the best for the euro?
Thanks!

[yfin]

You don't need 300V - there are cheaper Motul full syn which are fine for road use. From that list only use.

300V CHRONO 10W40
300V POWER 5W40
300V POWER RACING 5W30

Do NOT use the other viscoscity oils.

[EuroAccord13]

There is really not a difference between 5w and 10W...

300V is good if you track your car but 8100 X-Cess is good enough....

[tknova]

There is really not a difference between 5w and 10W...

300V is good if you track your car but 8100 X-Cess is good enough....

No point running a 10w when you can purcahse other oil's which are perfect for the euro..
For the aus weather, street driving i would only ever use:

0-40w
5-40w
0-30w
5-30w

It's o.k to run 10w but why bother when there are oil's out there that meet the euro's engine specifications perfectly for protection and performance hot & coid.
I always run castrol formula r 0-40w summer and winter.

[sodaz]

I've used 300V CHRONO 10W40 and the engine runs a lot smoother with less vibrations and produces a bit more power (from my butt dyno).

[petsfact]

oh oil thread agian....... i can't help....

mobil1 0w-40 or motul 5w-40 ???? debate!

[tony1234]

^^as above any of those oils that are 5W30-40 will be fine.Motul 300v range i think is overkill for a Euro.There's one range below it(can't remember what it's called1) that'd be suitable and it's still full synthetic and it's easier on the wallet.

[LT178]

I've been using 300V 10w40 since my very 1st service. Will be changing to the 5w30 one at next service.

[euro77]

I used to use 300V Chrono, never had any problems with it. Although most people will suggest 300V's oil are overkill for street use, so if you never track your car, why spend that much :D

[rocwang]

I used to use 300V Chrono, never had any problems with it. Although most people will suggest 300V's oil are overkill for street use, so if you never track your car, why spend that much :D


I never track my car, but I want always keep my car in the best condition, so 300V Chrono 10w-40? that is good enough? someone said 5w- or 0w- maybe the better for the euro?

[tknova]

a 0w or a 5w is better for the euro,

I would put a 0w in, better flow around the engine when cool.

The 10w are o.k, but for street use and start/stop driving it's not ideal asit's going to take longer for the oil to warm up to operating temp and to also flow around the engine.

[sodaz]

I never track my car, but I want always keep my car in the best condition, so 300V Chrono 10w-40? that is good enough? someone said 5w- or 0w- maybe the better for the euro?

If you want the Motul 300v range there's also 5w30 Power Racing but i haven't seen it anywhere in Sydney.

[LT178]

If you want the Motul 300v range there's also 5w30 Power Racing but i haven't seen it anywhere in Sydney.


There's plenty in Melbourne....all the Autobarns have them in stock. I have my 3 bottles ready for next service already ;)

[aaronng]

a 0w or a 5w is better for the euro,

I would put a 0w in, better flow around the engine when cool.

The 10w are o.k, but for street use and start/stop driving it's not ideal asit's going to take longer for the oil to warm up to operating temp and to also flow around the engine.
0w and 5w are the SAME. The only difference is that 0w flows at 10 C colder than 5w. But the viscosity for both are the same. And, no, 10w doesn't take longer to flow or warm up than 0w and 5w unless you live in Canada. :)

[rocwang]

0w and 5w are the SAME. The only difference is that 0w flows at 10 C colder than 5w. But the viscosity for both are the same. And, no, 10w doesn't take longer to flow or warm up than 0w and 5w unless you live in Canada. :)


maybe 300v power 5w-40 is better? because in the summer, that is very hot weather, so if I put 40, that is good for the car.?

[aaronng]

maybe 300v power 5w-40 is better? because in the summer, that is very hot weather, so if I put 40, that is good for the car.?
That is fine, I have used 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 on my Euro. All good. Now I am using 5w-40 for all year round.

If your Euro is stock, why not consider 5w-40 Motul 8100 Xcess? That is $65 for 5L and more than enough for any Honda engines.

[commonman00]

That is fine, I have used 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 on my Euro. All good. Now I am using 5w-40 for all year round.

If your Euro is stock, why not consider 5w-40 Motul 8100 Xcess? That is $65 for 5L and more than enough for any Honda engines.

I put Motul 8100 Xcess for my recent 40K service. The car feels great after that. I've been using Honda oil prior that. If you call around, you can get it for less than $60.

[aaronng]

^^Yup, I usually wait for Autobarn's 20% off before buying. Last bottle I bought was at full $65, but i got a motul fisherman's hat (like the style of hat that Ichishima-san wears)

[LT178]

If you have an Entertainment Guide, the Autobarn coupons are useful too.

[aaronng]

If you have an Entertainment Guide, the Autobarn coupons are useful too.

There are Autobarn coupons in there?!?!?!? Nice! :thumbsup:

[rocwang]

That is fine, I have used 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 on my Euro. All good. Now I am using 5w-40 for all year round.

If your Euro is stock, why not consider 5w-40 Motul 8100 Xcess? That is $65 for 5L and more than enough for any Honda engines.


Thanks aaronng!

Motul 8100 is enough? I always think put best one, I will feeling better:p
how much for the 300V? that is very expensive?

[aaronng]

Thanks aaronng!

Motul 8100 is enough? I always think put best one, I will feeling better:p
how much for the 300V? that is very expensive?
8100 is a good oil. Don't worry. 300V is $99.80 for 4L. You'll need about 4.2-4.5L.

[petsfact]

good is oil 8100 worry no 99.80 300v only 4l need you 4.2 - 4.5l about........

[yfin]

good is oil 8100 worry no 99.80 300v only 4l need you 4.2 - 4.5l about........

Can we have the non-SMS version of your post? Even for an SMS it doesn't make sense. lol :)

[sodaz]

Can we have the non-SMS version of your post? Even for an SMS it doesn't make sense. lol :)

ROFL!!!!

[petsfact]

vodka is hell of a drink.....

[aaronng]

Vodka makes you think you are yoda. Especially green vodka... yummm..

[euro77]

good is oil 8100 worry no 99.80 300v only 4l need you 4.2 - 4.5l about........


Didn't know yoda is here :wave:

[LT178]

300V only comes in 2L bottles, so you will need to buy 6L if filling for first time or 4L if you have some left over from last fill.

[EuroAccord13]

300V comes in 4 Litre bottles... Either way.. You need to buy more :D

[V205]

Same problem with new FEO (SL). 4L / Bottle.

[aaronng]

The FEOs at the dealers that I've been to are still in 5L bottles.

[V205]

They are the final run outs of the FEO (SJ). Which dealer if I may ask?

Regardless, the newer API standards have always been better spec'ed with each newer rating.


The FEOs at the dealers that I've been to are still in 5L bottles.

[aaronng]

They are the final run outs of the FEO (SJ). Which dealer if I may ask?

Regardless, the newer API standards have always been better spec'ed with each newer rating.

The ones I saw were SL though..... This was at Garry & Warren Smith down at Oakleigh.

[petsfact]

The ones I saw were SL though..... This was at Garry & Warren Smith down at Oakleigh.

i went there last sat only saw 4lt bottle........

[tanalasta]

You could probably get away with putting only 4L in the oil tank... perhaps :P

Has anybody done this and seen where the oil dipstick level is at?

300V does in fact come in 4L bottles. Not cheap though - was just under $100.

I'm still using Mobil 1 in mine - for some reason (not sure if it's purely psychological) I prefer it over Motul 8100.

[aaronng]

i went there last sat only saw 4lt bottle........

I'll go and check again. Last time I was there was a month ago.

[REV888]

Im almost due for my 10K service now with my 07 Euro.

I was using 300v Chrono on my last Euro & found it to be ok. Perhaps I did not see any improvements as I was only using it for short term period ( 20,000km).

I buddie of mine mentioned about Elf oil's anyone using that here or know about there products.

[tony1234]

Im almost due for my 10K service now with my 07 Euro.

I was using 300v Chrono on my last Euro & found it to be ok. Perhaps I did not see any improvements as I was only using it for short term period ( 20,000km).

I buddie of mine mentioned about Elf oil's anyone using that here or know about there products.
Yeah i am.i'm using the Elf Excellium SM 5W30.It's API rating is SM.seems to be good.it was recommended to me by NRG at rydalmere.He mods WRXs and he reckons it's good in turbos.good price as well $55 for 5ltrs.

[REV888]

Yeah i am.i'm using the Elf Excellium SM 5W30.It's API rating is SM.seems to be good.it was recommended to me by NRG at rydalmere.He mods WRXs and he reckons it's good in turbos.good price as well $55 for 5ltrs.


How long have you been using it for ?

[aaronng]

I was using 300v Chrono on my last Euro & found it to be ok. Perhaps I did not see any improvements as I was only using it for short term period ( 20,000km).

I buddie of mine mentioned about Elf oil's anyone using that here or know about there products.

That's right. You can't tell much difference using the best oil on the street. You won't see the benefits of it because you are not putting the engine under stress.

ELF is good.

[V205]

Where can we buy ELF oil in melbourne?

The SM might be a good oil to use for 1 year for those low km usage.

[AP1 F20c]

The use of competition engine oils for cars which aren't use for trackwork or competition is considerably a bank account drainer. The use of high grade street bias oil would serve a better purpose of engine protection and longevity vs. competition oils which uses minimal to no "detergent" chemical compounds found in street oils.

- A lower weight oil (regardless of competition or street) will allow (if/any) a quicker operating temperature to be reached, slightly quicker RPM acceleration in sacrifice for quicker fluid/chemical breakdown at high RPM or prolonged usage for a NA application.

- From it's chemical composite, a competition bias oil will maintain optimum operating temperature very well compared to a street oil under heavy RPM usage over a short period of time (IE - 20~50 laps). | IE - Motul 300V series.

If you aren't spending any track time or driving extremely hard for more than 30 minutes during a particular oil change cycle, street oils would be the recommended approach. Mobil 1 Gold, Elf Excellium, Motul 8100, these are top grade street oils for those who want the premium.

[tony1234]

How long have you been using it for ?
Just put it in at 20k service(have 22k now).Prior to that i used Castrol Edge 5W30.You can get it at Autobarn for $55.00.

[aaronng]

Where can we buy ELF oil in melbourne?

The SM might be a good oil to use for 1 year for those low km usage.
All the more reason to change at 6 months. If you are doing such low kms, that means your engine oil doesn't get hot enough to evaporate the moisture that accumulates everytime you start and run your engine. Water + sulphite from combustion = sulphuric acid.

[euro77]

Or you can try redline oil or royal purple oil, they are one of the best around as well. PM me if you want them, I know someone who sells them cheap.

[V205]

I average about 10,000km/year. I would say that I do average at least 1 good 20-30 minute drive a week to properly warm up the car and the oil.

I'm about to change the oil at around 15500km now with Honda FEO (SL)... but will consider something like ELF Exellium from 20,000 or 30,000km for 10,000km intervals.

My CRV is about to get it's 40,000km service and the last oil change was 31,000 about a year ago.



All the more reason to change at 6 months. If you are doing such low kms, that means your engine oil doesn't get hot enough to evaporate the moisture that accumulates everytime you start and run your engine. Water + sulphite from combustion = sulphuric acid.

[tony1234]

I average about 10,000km/year. I would say that I do average at least 1 good 20-30 minute drive a week to properly warm up the car and the oil.

I'm about to change the oil at around 15500km now with Honda FEO (SL)... but will consider something like ELF Exellium from 20,000 or 30,000km for 10,000km intervals.

My CRV is about to get it's 40,000km service and the last oil change was 31,000 about a year ago.
As Aaron says,1yr.is too long between oil changes.You need to do every 10k or 6 mths.whatever comes first.

[aaronng]

I average about 10,000km/year. I would say that I do average at least 1 good 20-30 minute drive a week to properly warm up the car and the oil.

I'm about to change the oil at around 15500km now with Honda FEO (SL)... but will consider something like ELF Exellium from 20,000 or 30,000km for 10,000km intervals.

My CRV is about to get it's 40,000km service and the last oil change was 31,000 about a year ago.

The reason for the 6 month service intervals is because the engine oil is also used to drive the i-VTEC mechanism. The oil may still be good for the engine, but if there is any sludging, that could jam or deposit in the VTC or VTEC oil channel components.

[tony1234]

Or you can try redline oil or royal purple oil, they are one of the best around as well. PM me if you want them, I know someone who sells them cheap.
Redline i think is designed to be left in for 20k but at $120(i think for 5 ltrs)you'd be better using a cheaper oil and changing it at 10k.

[euro77]

Redline i think is designed to be left in for 20k but at $120(i think for 5 ltrs)you'd be better using a cheaper oil and changing it at 10k.

true, but he's after the best synthetic oil and apparently price isn't his concern.

by the way, I can easily get 5 litres just under $100

[EUR003act]

i use Mobil 1 superSyn 0W-40....

my two cents :thumbsup:

[fleeball]

What are people's recommendation for replacing the auto transmission fluid?

[aaronng]

What are people's recommendation for replacing the auto transmission fluid?

Use ONLY Honda ATF.

[fleeball]

Use ONLY Honda ATF.

Any reason/s why?

[aaronng]

Any reason/s why?

Because for some reason, the shifting quality is worse with other ATF. Plus you get slightly more wear on the clutch pack.

[fleeball]

Thanks Aaron, But I was referring tot he Auto box, not the manual. Is this still applicable to the Auto?

[petsfact]

he is talking about auto

[fleeball]

ok will stick with the Honda ATF. Thanks for your help

[aaronng]

Yup, talking about the auto. The auto has 2 clutch packs which is computer controlled.

[Mike Star]

Just put it in at 20k service(have 22k now).Prior to that i used Castrol Edge 5W30.You can get it at Autobarn for $55.00.
Hi Tony so do just take your own oil along when you book in for a service? If so do you also provide your own filter? What impact does this have on the servicing costs from your Honda dealer?
Cheers

[tron07]

Hi Tony so do just take your own oil along when you book in for a service? If so do you also provide your own filter? What impact does this have on the servicing costs from your Honda dealer?
Cheers

Where do you plan to do your service? I do mine at Paramata, not that far from Blue Mtns. Use Castrol Edge. Told them I am using my own oil and they say no problem. Pretty good service center.

For oil filter, just use theirs, unless they are charging you very expensive.

[aaronng]

I bring my own oil and use their filter. For bringing my own oil, I get $40 off the servicing price.

[tony1234]

I bring my own oil and use their filter. For bringing my own oil, I get $40 off the servicing price.
Hi Mike.As Aaron says^^^.$40.00 taken off bill.Let them supply the filter.My service guys have no problem with doing that.

[aaronng]

Yeah, it's worth it to bring you own oil. My dealer was using Magnatec, which costs $30 for 5L. So that's $10 saved, plus you get a little leftover to top up (ask them for the remaining oil).

[rocwang]

I bought one bottle motul X-CESS 5w-40, I hope that good one for the car!

[snajper]

I am suprised that they were using Magnatec bcs it does not last more than 6-7k.

[sodaz]

I'm going to try Motul 300v 5w30 Power Racing to see what it's like this service. I'm using 10w40 Chrono now and it's great.

[tony1234]

If you change your oil every 10K or 6 mths.you really need to use a full synthetic as the mineral oils tend to break down after 7-8K particularly if you like to drive your car hard.

[aaronng]

I am suprised that they were using Magnatec bcs it does not last more than 6-7k.

Agreed. I could feel the engine become rough when it passed the 7k interval. That's why I started using Castrol Edge 5w-30, which is pretty cheap when on sale. Now I'm using Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40, but I will go back to Edge 0w-40 instead.

[Cranial]

Why are you going back to Edge?

[akina]

So whats the best for this 10,000km service?
10,000km should be runned in right?
need some suggestions thx coz im due for this service.

[aaronng]

Why are you going back to Edge?
Motul Xcess 8100 is similar to Edge 0w-40. Just so happens that I have a bottle of that now. If I am not planning to go to track, I just put in Edge 5w-30, which is sold for very cheap. Supercheapauto was selling the 5w-30 for only $30 recently.

[tony1234]

So whats the best for this 10,000km service?
10,000km should be runned in right?
need some suggestions thx coz im due for this service.
Any good 5W30,5W40 full synthetic.Castrol,Motul,Elf.For the price Castrol Edge 5W30 is hard to beat.As Aaron said it's sometimes on sale from $30-$40 at Supercheap.

[che_ryan]

guys,I did my 20k yesterday, i used Motul Xcess 8100, and voila noticable difference :thumbsup: smoohter rev, even i feel slightly more power kicked in there and i think i got much more better consumption (still guessing) i'm really happy....a question tough with this motul Xcess 8100 how many Kms it can go? same as honda oem 10k or less than that? thx

[aaronng]

guys,I did my 20k yesterday, i used Motul Xcess 8100, and voila noticable difference :thumbsup: smoohter rev, even i feel slightly more power kicked in there and i think i got much more better consumption (still guessing) i'm really happy....a question tough with this motul Xcess 8100 how many Kms it can go? same as honda oem 10k or less than that? thx

It will handle 10k easily if you don't track your car.

[che_ryan]

thanks....i don't have any plan to track my euro for now at least :p

[tanalasta]

What would people say was better.
Mobil 0-30W (gold-bottle) or the Motul 8100?

[aaronng]

What would people say was better.
Mobil 0-30W (gold-bottle) or the Motul 8100?

For the street, both will be similar. Motul 8100 is a 5w-40 oil, so it could be better for hot summers.

[JohnL]

I'd be a little wary of oil described as specifically formulated for motor sport use, it may not have a long life span, i.e not the ideal choice for a road car unless you change the oil very often. Redline is arguably state of the art in synthetics, they have street and racing formulations, but pricey!!

If you want to read up on oils (and just about any other automotive fluids you can think of), then type; 'Bob is the oil guy' into a search engine, you'll find a web site populated by highly qualified anal retentive tribologists who are obsessed with anything wet and slippery associated with cars! (hours and hours of informative oily entertainment!).

[EG30]

guys,I did my 20k yesterday, i used Motul Xcess 8100, and voila noticable difference :thumbsup: smoohter rev, even i feel slightly more power kicked in there and i think i got much more better consumption (still guessing) i'm really happy....a question tough with this motul Xcess 8100 how many Kms it can go? same as honda oem 10k or less than that? thx

One sure fire way to find out if your oil has survived well or not at the end of 10000km service interval is to get your oil analysed by a lab. Cost vary depending how many parameters you want them to trace from your oil sample. Once you've established the condition of your oil at a typical 10000km cycle of your car under typical operation of your driving style you can be confident if the oil of your choice is doing a good job protecting your engine or not.

[JohnL]

guys,I did my 20k yesterday, i used Motul Xcess 8100, and voila noticable difference :thumbsup: smoohter rev, even i feel slightly more power kicked in there and i think i got much more better consumption (still guessing) i'm really happy....a question tough with this motul Xcess 8100 how many Kms it can go? same as honda oem 10k or less than that? thx

Just changing old oil for new (with no change in brand etc) can make a noticable difference to everything you mentioned. As the oil ages it loses viscosity and doesn't seal the rings quite as well as it once did, the new oil restores the slight loss in compression. At least this is what I've read, if it's not true then another likely explanation is that the affects are psychosomatic...

This doesn't rule out that a change from brand X to brand Y might not have similar real affects, but you can't know if you're replacing brand X old oil with brand Y new oil. Even if you change from brand X new to brand Y new, you probably still wouldn't know for sure that the affect isn't psychosomatic unless you did back to back dyno runs.

How long the oil lasts depends on the oil itself, and how the oil is used. If you do lots of relatively short trips at low speeds with lots of idling and a fair % of your Ks are spent with the oil not fully up to temp (i.e. city driving) then the oil will break down fairly fast and you'd be very well advised to change oil at 5K intervals (regardless of oil brand / type). If you do mostly longer trips at higher speeds with the oil mostly at full operating temp then the oil will last a lot longer, and 10K intervals will probably be fine (regardless of the oil used, so long as it's a good oil).

As has been suggested, you can get your oil tested, but I'd think it's less hassle and probably cheaper just to change it more frequently, even if you're using a good quality oil (and I expect few on this forum would be using rubbish oil). Oil analysis is probably an important thing for race teams / proffesional race engine builders, truck fleet managers etc, but overkill for a private motorist who's arguably better off just using a good quality oil of the reccomended viscosity and changing it often.

Probably the best lubricating oil of all time (better than synthetics and the best dino oil) would be sperm whale oil, in short supply these days, but this is a good thing really! My understanding is that most and maybe all the full synthetic oils are made from highly processed coconut oil! This may seem surprising, but less so if we consider that for many years the best four stroke racing oil was basically castor bean oil (e.g. 'Castrol R' etc, still commonly used as a two stroke oil in competition kart engines, and maybe some bikes as well).

[che_ryan]

whooaa nice info thanks guys.....yeah oil analysis 'll be bit too much hassle for me i think...I don't usually drive my car in city condition (trams in melbourne are great!) only highway driving to get to my office so (hopefully) 10k probably will do just fine for me :thumbsup:

BUT sperm whale oil? sounds preety rare judging from the name itself hahahaha

[EG30]

It's not a big hassle at all if you just want a simple oil analysis from say http://www.e-monitor.com.au/

I paid $30 a few years back, it's now $35.20. You buy the kit from them, and they supply a syringe to sihpon a small qty of oil from your dipstick hole and you send the sample bottle to them with the postpak included in the kit.

They'll then send you a report in a week or so.


http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/2567/1619664page1pt9.th.jpg (http://img50.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1619664page1pt9.jpg)
Here is a report I got from them. I was a bit skeptical about the Castrol R 5w30 when it 1st came onto the market esp it's was thinner than anything I've used before and the price was a lot cheaper than the 0W40 I've been using for my AMG Merc. As you could see the oil still in very good nick after 8000kms, sent another sample at 15500kms worth of usage and that result wasn't much different. Mind you the engine is not highly stressed nor need to be driven hard and the sump holds 7L. I don't bother using the expensive 0W40 grade oil anymore in my Merc and BMW anymore esp the 5w30 has less drag and you can feel the diff in throttle response and fuel economy.

[JohnL]

It's not a big hassle at all if you just want a simple oil analysis from say http://www.e-monitor.com.au/

I paid $30 a few years back, it's now $35.20. You buy the kit from them, and they supply a syringe to sihpon a small qty of oil from your dipstick hole and you send the sample bottle to them with the postpak included in the kit.

They'll then send you a report in a week or so..

Might be worthwhile at that price, cheaper than I imagined! (note to self; make fewer assumptions!).


Here is a report I got from them. I was a bit skeptical about the Castrol R 5w30 when it 1st came onto the market esp it's was thinner than anything I've used before and the price was a lot cheaper than the 0W40 I've been using for my AMG Merc. .

This would be different to the 'old school' Castrol R oils, these oils are single grade not multi grade, i.e. Castrol R 30 is only a 30 weight, R40 only a 40 weight etc. These oils are castor based (vegatable oil with some additives), and burn with a distinctive 'baking biscuits' sort of smell (yummy!). Some vintage racing car guys use modern oils in the motor but throw a cup of Castrol R into the fuel, just to get that authentic vintage racing smell!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the multi grade Castrol R oils are partially or full synthetic?

Many fully synthetic oils are vege oil based too, but a very much modified product from the raw vege oil. Some (cheaper...?) synthetics are made from highly modified mineral oil, and from what I read not quite as good as the vege oil based products. My understanding is that the best synthetics have almost no additives in them, the basic oil being so good that they are not needed.

This is worthwhile because many of the additives commonly used are 'long chain polymers' (molecules made from a long chain of atoms, i.e. the molecule is physically 'long'), but in use over time these chains get chopped up into smaller sections and become 'short chain polymers' that don't behave the same way as when they were long (i.e. they no longer perform the job they were put into the oil to do). This is at least one reason why oil needs to be changed, the other that comes to mind being 'pollution' and thinning of the oil by thinner hydrocarbons (from fuel), and basic soot and muck from combustion products.


As you could see the oil still in very good nick after 8000kms, sent another sample at 15500kms worth of usage and that result wasn't much different. Mind you the engine is not highly stressed nor need to be driven hard and the sump holds 7L. I don't bother using the expensive 0W40 grade oil anymore in my Merc and BMW anymore esp the 5w30 has less drag and you can feel the diff in throttle response and fuel economy.

A big sump capacity will be good for the oil, the bigger the capacity the longer the oil is likely to last, and an engine in good condition will tend to 'pollute' the oil less than a more worn engine.

An engine in good condition is likely to have slightly more power when using a lighter weight oil because of reduced pumping losses (thinner oil takes less power to circulate, power that is then seen at the driving wheels), but an engine in poor condition (low compression due to worn or stuck rings) is likely to have more power because the thicker oil will help increase ring seal, and thus improve compression.

[aaronng]

This would be different to the 'old school' Castrol R oils, these oils are single grade not multi grade, i.e. Castrol R 30 is only a 30 weight, R40 only a 40 weight etc. These oils are castor based (vegatable oil with some additives), and burn with a distinctive 'baking biscuits' sort of smell (yummy!). Some vintage racing car guys use modern oils in the motor but throw a cup of Castrol R into the fuel, just to get that authentic vintage racing smell!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the multi grade Castrol R oils are partially or full synthetic?

Yeah, Castrol called the oils Castrol Formula R probably to cash in on the popularity of the old Castrol R oils. They have recently renamed the Formula R range to Castrol Edge. They are multigrade oils, but not all of them are true synthetics. The Formula R/Edge 5w-30 is sold as a synthetic oil, but it is a hydrocracked synthetic, meaning the base stock is mineral! The 0w-40 is a true synthetic in the sense that it is a polyalphaolefin (PAO), made from the light petroleum gas fraction, which is then again "mineral" in origin. The other 2 weights, one should also be a PAO while the most viscous 25w-50 grade is a mineral oil.



Many fully synthetic oils are vege oil based too, but a very much modified product from the raw vege oil. Some (cheaper...?) synthetics are made from highly modified mineral oil, and from what I read not quite as good as the vege oil based products. My understanding is that the best synthetics have almost no additives in them, the basic oil being so good that they are not needed.
I haven't come across modern synthetic engine oils based on vege oils. So far it has been traditionally the PAO oils, followed by the cheaper hydrocracked oils and then the latest and greatest ester based oils. Yes, the best oils don't need additives if all they need to do is to lubricate. Unfortunately with today's demand for longer service intervals (silly) and the requirement of the oil to trap any acid produced from water vapour interacting with the sulphur in our dirty fuels (requiring a higher total base number, TBN), oils can't just be oils anymore. Even the most expensive synthetic has additives to clean the engine and to boost the TBN.

[JohnL]

I haven't come across modern synthetic engine oils based on vege oils. So far it has been traditionally the PAO oils, followed by the cheaper hydrocracked oils and then the latest and greatest ester based oils. Yes, the best oils don't need additives if all they need to do is to lubricate. Unfortunately with today's demand for longer service intervals (silly) and the requirement of the oil to trap any acid produced from water vapour interacting with the sulphur in our dirty fuels (requiring a higher total base number, TBN), oils can't just be oils anymore. Even the most expensive synthetic has additives to clean the engine and to boost the TBN.

Seems I should have said "a few' rather than "many". My understanding is that Redline and Motul (and perhaps some others) are esters, and that ester oils are vege based (commonly coconut oil). Note that ester based oils are highly modified / refined from the raw vege oil, otherwise they wouldn't be 'synthetic', they'd be 'suntan'!

Australian fuels tend to be very high sulphur content relative to the fuels in say Europe and USA (I believe), why we've been subjected to rotten egg gas smelling traffic since the intro of unleaded fuel here (the old unleaded had a lot less sulphur). It may be that low additive oils may be OK there but not so OK here?

There are many different additives used in oils, each in there to do specific and different jobs. It may be that the ester based racing oils have few additives, road formulations more additives, but mostly only those specifically required to deal with potential acidity build up? These may not be long chain polymers(?). LCPs are literally and physically torn apart at the molecular level by the physical forces acting on the oil, I don't think they they are damaged by chemical reactions, but I could be wrong (I'm no tribologist, but at least I know what a tribologist is!).

I agree, long service intervals are very silly, and I strongly suspect reccomended over the heads of the (protesting) engineering departments by the marketing departments (a higher authority!). People (average potential car buyers) don't want to know about servicing their car, they see it as a necessary evil but don't really understand why it needs to be done. A reccomended long service interval may well be something that sways them to buy car X rather than car Y.

That said, modern car engines are built to much better tolerances than they used to be, and when in good nick have a lot less blowby and thus don't pollute the oil as badly, so can get away with a longer service interval. This isn't to imply that shorter service intervals aren't inherantly more advisable. Even with modern tight tolerance engines, as a rule of thumb the more Ks it's done the more often the oil needs to be changed.

Talking of fuels, unleaded is really toxic stuff, a lot of the added ingredients are grade A carcinogens and a LOT of the fuel is added ingredients (by volume, can be nearly 50% is additive rather than 'petrol', which is way higher than leaded). Breathing the raw fumes and touching the stuff is far more dangerous than leaded fuel (don't use unleaded as a degreaser, hold your breath while filling up!), though you won't get lead poisoning from breathing the exhaust. What would we rather die from, lead poisoning or cancer...?

[JohnL]

BUT sperm whale oil? sounds preety rare judging from the name itself hahahaha

At one time (steam days) it was the most prized and valuable oil used for lubrication (kept all those steam locos and ship engines etc in tip top nick!). It is what it sounds like; oil from sperm whales, the most valuable product from the whale. In the sperm whales head there is a large cavity filled with this stuff, it's accociated with the whales echo locating apparatus. The whales are very happy that much cheaper acceptable alternatives were developed from mineral oil!

[Dray_Templar]

Grrrr thanks guys lol you just made me feel bad for not changing my oil in awhile... now i gotta do it when i get back in my home state.

P.S all great info guys cheers

[power_of_dreams]

*BUMP*

service coming up soon. thinking of bringing my own oil. short and simple, is
5w-40 Motul 8100 Xcess the way to go? (Stock btw)

[akina]

Thats what i put in at my 10k :)

[tknova]

I've been running castrol edge 0-40w since 10,000km

Car's now at 30,000km and it's running great.

[sodaz]

Motul 300v 5w30 Power Racing is the shit with awesome response and quicker revving. It feels even better than the 10w40 Chrono I normally use.

[power_of_dreams]

so many different opinions! :S

[Min988]

I brought some 0-40w castrol edge instead of the 10-30w should I bother returning it to change to the 10-30w instead? and save myself 10 bucks?

[tron07]

I think 10-30 would be better

[aaronng]

I brought some 0-40w castrol edge instead of the 10-30w should I bother returning it to change to the 10-30w instead? and save myself 10 bucks?

You can use the 0w-40 instead of the Castrol Edge 5w-30. Between the two of them, in an engine that is pushed hard, I'd take the 0w-40. For sedate street driving, the 5w-30 is fine. Yuo can return it and get a few $$ back too.

[ShAwNeX]

If your not planning to track your car, then just get the oem honda oils for the euro. Its more than sufficient enough to protect your engine.

[tony1234]

If your not planning to track your car, then just get the oem honda oils for the euro. Its more than sufficient enough to protect your engine.
The main problem with the Honda FEO oil is if you drive your car harder than normal it tends to break down after 7-8K.This is what a Honda tech told me.

[Min988]

The main problem with the Honda FEO oil is if you drive your car harder than normal it tends to break down after 7-8K.This is what a Honda tech told me.

I've heard that as well from a Honda tech at my 20k service and have noticed a difference switching to castrol edge oils. I have a lead foot occasionally.

[EK Civic R]

How often is best to have the 300V range changed?

I'm using the 300V Chrono at the moment...

[aaronng]

How often is best to have the 300V range changed?

I'm using the 300V Chrono at the moment...

Since I change my oil every 6 months/10,000km maximum anyway, I don't see the point of paying extra for 300V unless I am going to track the car. Having said that, even the cheaper Motul 8100 was good enough for track.

[EK Civic R]

After this weeks track day, probably change back to 8100...
I've been servicing my car every 5000kms and I do that in 8-10wks.. so it's really putting a hole in my wallet..

[aaronng]

After this weeks track day, probably change back to 8100...
I've been servicing my car every 5000kms and I do that in 8-10wks.. so it's really putting a hole in my wallet..

If you do that many kms in 10 weeks, you have mostly highway kms? In that case, even Honda FEO would be good!

[phobolism]

just got the catalogue for supercheap auto, sale starting tomorrow and Castrol edge 5w-40 is selling for 30 bucks!! BARGAIN!

[Min988]

you mean 5-30w?

[phobolism]

oops yeh 5w-30 my bad

[EK Civic R]

If you do that many kms in 10 weeks, you have mostly highway kms? In that case, even Honda FEO would be good!

Nah, 95% of it is in Sydney.. Not much highway driving at all..

[aaronng]

Nah, 95% of it is in Sydney.. Not much highway driving at all..

Elf is pretty reasonably priced. I have the 5w-30 in it now ($50-55). Good for daily, and this weekend's Wakie session will show if it is good enough to handle abuse as well. If you see me swearing about tow truck costs from Goulburn, then you know what to expect.

[EK Civic R]

Hehe..
will see, I used to use elf in my old car as well. Think it was pretty good, not sure about track though

[Psy]

Elf is pretty reasonably priced. I have the 5w-30 in it now ($50-55). Good for daily, and this weekend's Wakie session will show if it is good enough to handle abuse as well. If you see me swearing about tow truck costs from Goulburn, then you know what to expect.

The Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 is for $29.90 at SuperCheap now.. pretty good deal.

[aaronng]

The Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 is for $29.90 at SuperCheap now.. pretty good deal.

Yup, good price but it is a hydrocracked mineral oil. More than enough for street, I just bought 4 bottles. LOL

[tony1234]

Yup, good price but it is a hydrocracked mineral oil. More than enough for street, I just bought 4 bottles. LOL
That's why i went for the Elf,it's a full synthetic(and reasonable price) and as i leave it in for 6 mths./10K i thought a full synthetic is the way to go.

[tron07]

The Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 is for $29.90 at SuperCheap now.. pretty good deal.

you mean its going for $30 now? :eek:

better head down and grab a few

[aaronng]

Back from track. I notice that the Elf oil is still very clear and golden.... Either it doesn't clean as well or my engine is not running rich enough... Weird.........

[mreuro4]

I recommend Penrite Sin 0. Did the oil change yesterday. Performance gain is excellent, and price is reasonable for 5L for $72 @ Autobarn. Engine vibration has reduced as well. Cheers

[aaronng]

I recommend Penrite Sin 0. Did the oil change yesterday. Performance gain is excellent, and price is reasonable for 5L for $72 @ Autobarn. Engine vibration has reduced as well. Cheers

Vibration has reduced because Sin0 is a 0w-50 oil.

[tanalasta]

I'm using Mobil 1 Gold and being a 5L bottle, I usually have just under 1L left after an oil change.

Is there any harm in saving 1L at a time and keeping the leftover oil until I have enough for a full oil change? Or will the oil in an open bottle degrade?

[aaronng]

I'm using Mobil 1 Gold and being a 5L bottle, I usually have just under 1L left after an oil change.

Is there any harm in saving 1L at a time and keeping the leftover oil until I have enough for a full oil change? Or will the oil in an open bottle degrade?

I save it and use it for topping up. Just keep it in the bottle with the cap on. It is not as if the new unopened bottle was vacuum/nitrogen filled. :)

[tron07]

The Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 is for $29.90 at SuperCheap now.. pretty good deal.

Was at Supercheap sometimes back, 5-30 was going for about $48 or somewhere there... the $29.90 is for 25-50

Kmart having 10% discount for all oils now, just got one 5-30 for about $43

[Crapdaz]

I'm using Mobil 1 Gold and being a 5L bottle, I usually have just under 1L left after an oil change.

Is there any harm in saving 1L at a time and keeping the leftover oil until I have enough for a full oil change? Or will the oil in an open bottle degrade?

wtf, did you do the full oil change as in changing oil filter also?

as if you did change oil filter there wouldnt be 1 litre left.
engine contains about 4.7L you would only have about 300ml left.

should pick up a couple of bottles of castrol edge too but i dont get paid til next week dang mang!

[aaronng]

wtf, did you do the full oil change as in changing oil filter also?

as if you did change oil filter there wouldnt be 1 litre left.
engine contains about 4.7L you would only have about 300ml left.

should pick up a couple of bottles of castrol edge too but i dont get paid til next week dang mang!

Euro's engine takes 4.1 to 4.2L when drained. I also end up with about 700-800 leftover, depending on how long I leave it to drain.

[Crapdaz]

dont know why but when i did mine it took about 4.7L, read on tsx forum that they used 4.5-4.7 also.

but sorry to hijack i know everyone recommends HONDA MTF, but is there any market brands that are equivalent or work better than Honda's MTF?

Thanks in advance.

[aaronng]

dont know why but when i did mine it took about 4.7L, read on tsx forum that they used 4.5-4.7 also.

but sorry to hijack i know everyone recommends HONDA MTF, but is there any market brands that are equivalent or work better than Honda's MTF?

Thanks in advance.

Some people like Redline Superlight Shockproof, which is Redline's thinnest shockproof range MTF. However, it is still 1 step thicker than Honda MTF. I have found Honda MTF06 to help with the gritty shift feeling like how Redline Shockproof does, while maintaining the correct viscosity. I have found that Honda MTF06 being quite a bit better than Honda MTF Plus in terms of shift feel.

[Crapdaz]

Some people like Redline Superlight Shockproof, which is Redline's thinnest shockproof range MTF. However, it is still 1 step thicker than Honda MTF. I have found Honda MTF06 to help with the gritty shift feeling like how Redline Shockproof does, while maintaining the correct viscosity. I have found that Honda MTF06 being quite a bit better than Honda MTF Plus in terms of shift feel.

how much does that normally set you back and what quantity does it come in for Redline and also Honda MTF06?

[aaronng]

how much does that normally set you back and what quantity does it come in for Redline and also Honda MTF06?

No idea how much redline is. Honda MTF06 comes in 1L bottles and should cost about $15-18 each. You need 2 bottles. Gearbox takes 2.1L when draining but I have found that I have some leftover from the 2 bottles.

[Crapdaz]

No idea how much redline is. Honda MTF06 comes in 1L bottles and should cost about $15-18 each. You need 2 bottles. Gearbox takes 2.1L when draining but I have found that I have some leftover from the 2 bottles.

Thanks aaron. :thumbsup:

can i also ask what viscoscity? is the MTF06?

[phobolism]

Was at Supercheap sometimes back, 5-30 was going for about $48 or somewhere there... the $29.90 is for 25-50

Kmart having 10% discount for all oils now, just got one 5-30 for about $43

29.90 is for 25w-50, 5w-30 only oil which wasnt discounted heavily was the 0w-40

[aaronng]

If you guys drive on the street only, Mobil Synth S 10w-40 should be good enough. It's a semi-synthetic and costs only $32.

[tpphan]

Hey guys,

Just went to Autobarn, Auburn. 20% sale store wide.

Picked up two bottles of Motul 8100 X-cess :D

[aaronng]

Thanks aaron. :thumbsup:

can i also ask what viscoscity? is the MTF06?
MTF06 is a 75w80, while Redline Superlight is 75w90.

[aaronng]

Hey guys,

Just went to Autobarn, Auburn. 20% sale store wide.

Picked up two bottles of Motul 8100 X-cess :D

Serious??? Nice! Too bad I've already bought 4 bottles of Edge 5w-30 during the supercheap auto $29.99 sale. Can't think of what I need from Autobarn at the moment.

[kimnkk]

I was just at Autobarn before, picked up some more RainX, MF cloths and NXT Tech Wax 2 and AG SRP. Was looking for oil but i had no idea what you guys would recommend for a normal use euro.

Would i be okay with Motul 8100 X-cess or are there better oils for the price? There's the Mobil Synth S 10W40 that Aaronng recommended for street use, and its half the cost of the Motul but is it only half as good?

Also, what kind of 'range' thing should i be looking at? 5W40 okay, or can i go for something else? Sorry, i'm a complete nub with oils and most things car related, but i'm trying to learn XD.

Thanks :D

[aaronng]

I was just at Autobarn before, picked up some more RainX, MF cloths and NXT Tech Wax 2 and AG SRP. Was looking for oil but i had no idea what you guys would recommend for a normal use euro.

Would i be okay with Motul 8100 X-cess or are there better oils for the price? There's the Mobil Synth S 10W40 that Aaronng recommended for street use, and its half the cost of the Motul but is it only half as good?

Also, what kind of 'range' thing should i be looking at? 5W40 okay, or can i go for something else? Sorry, i'm a complete nub with oils and most things car related, but i'm trying to learn XD.

Thanks :D
No, Mobil Synth S is NOT half as good as Motul. If you are driving it on the street only, then Mobil Synth S is just as good as Motul 8100. But if you were on the track, revving your engine constantly between 5000 to 7300rpm and keeping in that range for a total of over 2 hours in a day, then go for Motul 8100. Having said that, I will be trialling the cheap Castrol Edge 5w-30 ($30 from supercheap sale) for track as well.

You can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40.

[kimnkk]

Hey mate,

Ahhh, good to hear! I barely take my car past 6k anyway, so i guess Mobil Synth S (or Castrol Edge Sport 5W30 if i can find it for as cheap as you did) it is! Thanks for saving me a bunch mate :)

Cheers!
Kim.

[stalin]

what do you guys think about valvoline 5w-40 full synthetic??? my brother just gave me 3 bottles of those and i will be putting it in on wednesday..safe ?? :)

[aaronng]

Yup, the viscosity can be used in the Euro, so it will be safe. Let us know how many kms your engine stays smooth.

[tony1234]

Hey guys,

Just went to Autobarn, Auburn. 20% sale store wide.

Picked up two bottles of Motul 8100 X-cess :D
Been away for the weekend,when does this sale finish?

[tpphan]

Not sure, but the sale is still advertised on their website.

[traumatized]

^ finished yesterday i'm afraid

[Jaso]

Back from track. I notice that the Elf oil is still very clear and golden.... Either it doesn't clean as well or my engine is not running rich enough... Weird.........

Out of interest, what does the colour of the engine oil have to do with mixture?

[aaronng]

Out of interest, what does the colour of the engine oil have to do with mixture?
No, the colour doesn't have anything to do with the mixture. My comment was because I expected the oil to turn dark after running rich. I just checked the oil again, and it is getting darker. So the oil is working to clean the carbon off.

[Crapdaz]

Out of interest, what does the colour of the engine oil have to do with mixture?

as said by aaron, it turns black when the engine oil cleans off carbon throughout the engine.

[Fredoops]

*THREAD REVIVE*
Car's currently on Castro GTX... POS...

Alright, I'm going into service on Thursday, I got myself some Mobil One Extended Performance 5w30 (rumored to be group 4). With long service oil filter as well.

I'm gonna stretch this oil to 15k minimum without changing, lets see how this goes.

[Type R Positive]

Mobil gold cap! Baller!
I'm just using castrol edge 5w30, cost 1/2 the price!

[Fredoops]

Mobil gold cap! Baller!
I'm just using castrol edge 5w30, cost 1/2 the price!

Last 1/2 as long too. Not a fun of Edge, as far as I know its a group III oil still, EP Mobil I heard is group IV.
I wouldn't try long service with Castrol edge, with Mobil 1 EP, i can push 20k without oil change, wouldn't try the same with Castro edge tho, wouldn't keep it in there for more than 10k

*EDIT* you can get Mobil 1 5w30 (not the EP, just normal) for like $42 AUD in Sydney...

[Type R Positive]

Yeah, I see manufacturer say 15,000 miles! on that oil, but no way on earth would I leave my oil changes that long!
It would be cool if you took a sample of that oil pure, and spent oil after you change it, so you can compare the two! I would love to see the amount acidification after 15-20k kms!

I've seen too many oil test results (industrial not car!) to see that nothing is better than regular changes, regardless of what oil is used.
If any of you have a diesel, best performing oil I've seen is the shell rimula x!

[dr1ft3r]

Motul 8100 x-cess.... every 10,000 kms

[white_ep3_civic]

Yeah, I see manufacturer say 15,000 miles! on that oil, but no way on earth would I leave my oil changes that long!
It would be cool if you took a sample of that oil pure, and spent oil after you change it, so you can compare the two! I would love to see the amount acidification after 15-20k kms!

I've seen too many oil test results (industrial not car!) to see that nothing is better than regular changes, regardless of what oil is used.
If any of you have a diesel, best performing oil I've seen is the shell rimula x!

I purchased a new focus 2 years ago and the intervals between servicing was 15,000k's. I had a read in the euro book and it suggests every 5,000k's. I use edge 5w30. Seems to be fine.

[Fredoops]

Honda asks you to do service every 5k because the Honda FEO oil is a mineral based POS.
Even some dealers don't use it.

All the European cars ask for Synthetic long life oils... hence the 15k rec service.
Full syn oils are designed to counter the various deterioration problems normal mineral/semi syn oils encounter.

[Type R Positive]

Honda 'recommends' 5k services so they can sting you $400 every time! Dealerships make their money from servicing, not selling cars......
Logbook requires 10k - 6 month servicing.

[Type R Positive]

All the European cars ask for Synthetic long life oils... hence the 15k rec service.
Not sure, but do they still have the service every 6 months in their logbook?

[aaronng]

Last I checked, the service booklet said 10,000km / 6 months and not 5000km.

[Type R Positive]

Last I checked, the service booklet said 10,000km / 6 months and not 5000km.
Yeah, that's why I posted the logbook requirements, to help clear up confusion.

In the service book, there is actually a recommendation for 5k services. I've got the Prado today, so I can't post the actual wording.

[white_ep3_civic]

Same in the Honda service manual. It has a reccomendation at the front to change the oil every 5000k's.

[Fredoops]

Last I checked, the service booklet said 10,000km / 6 months and not 5000km.
Page 17 of my CL9 Manual:


Severe Driving Conditions

1. Repeated Sort Distance driving (eg. less than8kms, or stop start driving or idling for long periods)
Replace:
^Engine Oil, every 5000km or 3 mths,
Recommended Servicing time: 0.2
^Engine oild filter, every 10,000km or 6mth
Recommended Servicing time: 0.1

Their definition of "Severe Driving Conditions" is basically driving to work on Paramatta road or Pacific highway every morn.......


***UPDATE***
got an oil change today, car now has Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 and Mobile 1 extended performance filter in it.
- feels MUCH better than the Castrol GTX/Edge/HONDA FEO the dealers and service people put in previously.
- engine revs more freely, less noisy and a LOT smoother.

I'm gonna run this Mobil 1 EP for 1 year or 15k km...
Next time when I change i'll use Redline oil, it's a proper Ester based group IV

Might add some Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer down the track.. we'll see

[corn_flakes]

so i was in repco today and picked up a bottle of Valvoline VR1 10W-40 oil...it was on sale for $39, orginal price was $55.

i thought it was a synthetic oil but now i'm not too sure...i can't find any info anywhere to say that it's definitely synthetic. on the bottle it just says 'Synthetic Enhanced' API SJ/CF.

anyone ever used this before?

[Fredoops]

so i was in repco today and picked up a bottle of Valvoline VR1 10W-40 oil...it was on sale for $39, orginal price was $55.

i thought it was a synthetic oil but now i'm not too sure...i can't find any info anywhere to say that it's definitely synthetic. on the bottle it just says 'Synthetic Enhanced' API SJ/CF.

anyone ever used this before?
Theres 2 types of VR1's, one Synthetic, one dino.... I dunno which one you got, but sounds like you got the dino... OUCH... lol

Isn't 10W-40 kinda.. Thick? Considering Castrol Edge 5w-30 is only $42.90 at SCA, 25% off at the moment.

[tony1234]

so i was in repco today and picked up a bottle of Valvoline VR1 10W-40 oil...it was on sale for $39, orginal price was $55.

i thought it was a synthetic oil but now i'm not too sure...i can't find any info anywhere to say that it's definitely synthetic. on the bottle it just says 'Synthetic Enhanced' API SJ/CF.

anyone ever used this before?
It's a semi synthetic.Use it but IMO 10W 40 is a bit thick.The better oils are SM rated.As Fredoops suggested Castrol Edge 5w-30 is a good option.Good oil at a reasonable price.

[aaronng]

so i was in repco today and picked up a bottle of Valvoline VR1 10W-40 oil...it was on sale for $39, orginal price was $55.

i thought it was a synthetic oil but now i'm not too sure...i can't find any info anywhere to say that it's definitely synthetic. on the bottle it just says 'Synthetic Enhanced' API SJ/CF.

anyone ever used this before?

Being an SJ, I'd say that one is a semi synthetic only.

[corn_flakes]

ah well. the car will only be driven for a month after the oil change...then it will be sitting in storage for 1-2 years, with the engine started for 10mins every 3 months just to get the fluids running. :/

[chunsa]

Just a noob question,

regardless of oil type, is it always best to just change it every 6 months (car gets driven less then ~7000kms/yr)?

Thinking of trying out the Castrol Edge 5w30 for the CU2 (although it has less then ~12,000kms is it better to use FEO until 30,000kms?)

[tony1234]

Just a noob question,

regardless of oil type, is it always best to just change it every 6 months (car gets driven less then ~7000kms/yr)?

Thinking of trying out the Castrol Edge 5w30 for the CU2 (although it has less then ~12,000kms is it better to use FEO until 30,000kms?)
Yes.change oil at 6mths.or10k whatever comes first.Edge will be fine to use now

[Fredoops]

ah well. the car will only be driven for a month after the oil change...then it will be sitting in storage for 1-2 years, with the engine started for 10mins every 3 months just to get the fluids running. :/

In that case i'd either add some Lucas oil additive'/stabilizer or get some long service oil instead.
.... unless you wanna change oil everytime you start the car...


Just a noob question,

regardless of oil type, is it always best to just change it every 6 months (car gets driven less then ~7000kms/yr)?

Thinking of trying out the Castrol Edge 5w30 for the CU2 (although it has less then ~12,000kms is it better to use FEO until 30,000kms?)
Any main brand full synthetic oil is better than Honda FEO.

considering Castrol Edge is on special for $43 a bottle... it's even kinda cheap.
- oh and Honda FEO Ultra (full syn) is like $70 a bottle, bit dear IMO.

[corn_flakes]

why do you guys think 10W-40 is too thick???

i thought 10W during cold starts isn't that bad, even for Sydney winters where it doesn't even drop below 0 degrees celsius.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e231/vinuneuro/EuroK.gif

[Fredoops]

why do you guys think 10W-40 is too thick???

i thought 10W during cold starts isn't that bad, even for Sydney winters where it doesn't even drop below 0 degrees celsius.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e231/vinuneuro/EuroK.gif

We know it CAN use 10w-40... but if can be helped use something 30 instead, cause thicker oil = less HP, more fuel consumption... and it doesn't necessary mean it protects the engine better.

Before my last service the service people used 10w40 castrol Gtx... car is way less rev happy.

I know I said in another thread Im thinking about 0w40 next time... but that's because 0w40 in full syn almost always mean it's a group 4 based oil.

[Fredoops]

**UPDATE***

Some feedback on my Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which I had in the car since late Jan.

The car's been running smooth and all, but last few days I've noticed the oil colour had changed considerably. I checked dipstick while car's cold and the oil's a very hard brown colour, almost black, and while car's warm it's a thick brown colour.

So I took out my bottle of New unused Mobil 1 EP and got a comparison on a piece of A4 Paper see below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v204/silverster/photo-1.jpg

It seems the full Syn oil had been doing a F*&^ load of cleaning.:)
Should I change the oil? or Leave it in there? I know the marketing says it'll last 15k Miles, but I dont really want to keep all that soot in there that long.

[buddah51au]

Personally, I change my Oil & Filter every 6 months as the car gets very little use these days. I have Started using FEO Ultra, a group 3 Synthetic. I checked my last invoice - 5 lts cost $59.40.

Fredoops, that oil is not dirty, but I would still be looking at 10,000km or 6 month oil change intervals.

[Gibknee]

Probably gunna get flamed, but I see lots of different views in this thread, I have a 2004 Honda Accord Euro with 126,000km on the clock, would 5w-30 be the best oil to use?

[Fredoops]

Probably gunna get flamed, but I see lots of different views in this thread, I have a 2004 Honda Accord Euro with 126,000km on the clock, would 5w-30 be the best oil to use?

Castrol Edge Sport: cheap, good value, at $42.05 at SCA on special at the moment.... it's the price of some higher end semi-synethic oils, but at 5w-30, it's hydro-cracked base, not a true group 4 oil.
Amsoil Signature Series: claimed to be the best synthetic oil.. period, lots of people in the USA swear by it... but expect it to cost 3x more than the Castrol, but is true group 4 oil
Motul 300V: also very good synthetic oil, one of the best, but hella expensive, expect it to cost 2.5 times more than Castrol edge, but is a Group 5.

Depends on your budget. Castrol is just too cheap to be passed.... Amsol and Motul will cost $100+ while Castrol does the job for under $50...

[Gibknee]

Is there any drawbacks to using a non-group 4 based oil, or benefits to using it?

[Fredoops]

Is there any drawbacks to using a non-group 4 based oil, or benefits to using it?
Read Below, Group 3 is like very highly engineered (read: glorified) mineral oil. Group 4/5 isn't

Group III - Unconventional Base Oils

The API defines the difference between Group II and III base oils only in terms of V.I., viscosity index. Base oils with conventional V.I. (80-119) are Group II and base oils with an "unconventional" V.I. (120+) are Group III. Group III base oils are also called unconventional base oils (UCBO's) or very high V.I. (VHVI) base oils. Group II+ base oils have the same maximum V.I. as Group II (80-119), but have a higher minimum V.I. (110-119).

From a process standpoint, Group III oils are made by the same process as Group II oils, but the V.I. is increased by increasing the temperature of the hydrocracker. The product V.I. can also be increased by increasing the V.I. of the feedstock. Which is done by selecting the appropriate crude.


Group IV - Traditional "Synthetic" Base Oils (PAO)

"The word "synthetic" in the lube industry hase traditionaly been synonymous with PAO, poly-alfa-olefins, which are made from small molocules. The first commercial process for making PAO was pioneered by Gulf Oil in 1951. In the 1960's, Mobil patented an improved process. In the 1970's, Mobil began to market their product as 'Mobil 1'.

Since then, the demand for PAO has grown and some base oil manufactures began using higher V.I. feedstocks to make mineral oils with V.I.'s that matched the PAO's. These new Group III oils were not manufactured from small molecules like traditional synthetics but they bridged the performance gap at a lower cost. Some lubricant manufactures began replacing PAO's with Group III base oils in their "synthetic" engine oils. This created a controversy in the lubricants industry because some believed that PAO's were the only true synthetics.

The National Advertising Department of the Better Business Bureau ruled that Group III base oils can be considered "synthetic" because modern oils made using hydroisomerization technology have most of the same performance features of the early synthetics.

Group V: a polyolester/ester (POE) based synthetic oil, also known as a group 5 oil or "the best you can buy/suitable for jet engines"

but since we don't use car for racetracks and we change our oil 10k/6mth.... the addictive package and cost/benefit will be more important.

PS: I had to correct my previous post. Motul 300V is GROUP 5 not group 4

[Fredoops]

*stop press*

I know I said above castrol edge is the best Entry level full-syn oil at that price (bang for your buck)

NOT anymore... The eBay guy whom sold me my Mobil 1 EP is now selling American imported Mobil 1 Extended Performance long service oil 5w-40 for $45AUD per gallon. He's in Sydney, at that price it's a lot better value than the castrol edge, considering the local mobil 1 cost $80 plus and it's not even the Extended performance.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mobil-1-EP-Engine-Oil-5W30-Gallon-Mobil-1-Top-Quality_W0QQitemZ170625913902QQcategoryZ46098QQvar ZQQcmdZViewItem

[chunsa]

So change every 6 months regardless of kms then!

Wouldn't Castrol Edge still be more bang for buck considering it has 5L vs the 4L of Mobil 1?

Considering regardless of kms (up to ~10,000kms) you still change oil every 6 months?

With every oil change would you also change the oil filter too?

[bummy]

isnt all oils branded as fully synthetic are from group III? meaning theyre all enhanced mineral oils that are almost as superior as synthetic oil at some 40^c or something?
what brand is truly synthetic? (group 4/5 base)

[tony1234]

So change every 6 months regardless of kms then!

Wouldn't Castrol Edge still be more bang for buck considering it has 5L vs the 4L of Mobil 1?

Considering regardless of kms (up to ~10,000kms) you still change oil every 6 months?

With every oil change would you also change the oil filter too?
Yes change engine oil every 6 mths/10K.ALWAYS change oil filter when you change engine oil.

[tony1234]

isnt all oils branded as fully synthetic are from group III? meaning theyre all enhanced mineral oils that are almost as superior as synthetic oil at some 40^c or something?
what brand is truly synthetic? (group 4/5 base)
Group 3 oils are generally semi synthetic .Group 4+5 are full(true,POA) synthetic.You need to look for the wording "full synthetic"on the container.

[Fredoops]

isnt all oils branded as fully synthetic are from group III? meaning theyre all enhanced mineral oils that are almost as superior as synthetic oil at some 40^c or something?
what brand is truly synthetic? (group 4/5 base)
Amsoil is group 4, Redline is group 5 (I think, or group 4, can't remember). Motul 300v is group 5.

Now just to make it interesting/confusing, most synthetic oils that's marked 0W-XX, needs to be group 4 or 5 cause hydro cracked oil can't reach 0w grade.

Hence why castrol edge / mobil 1 0w-40 cost a lot more than 5w-30 or 10w-40 grade oils...


Group 3 oils are generally semi synthetic .Group 4+5 are full(true,POA) synthetic.You need to look for the wording "full synthetic"on the container.
That was true in the 1990s then Castrol and mobil had a law suit because castrol markets hydrocracked group 3 as full synthetic... Castrol won the suit and now group 3 can also be marketed as full synthetic.

[chunsa]

Thanks for the answer again!

Time to get some oil and oil filters and try DIY soon.

[Gibknee]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Formula-Shell-Full-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-5W30-6-Quart-/170468081557?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b0b07f95

Wouldn't this one be better? Or is Mobil 1 a better brand?

[Fredoops]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Formula-Shell-Full-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-5W30-6-Quart-/170468081557?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b0b07f95

Wouldn't this one be better? Or is Mobil 1 a better brand?

Formula shell would be the budget full-syn oil, since shell's got Rotella line of full syn oil above it.

Mobil 1 should be a better bet (and Mobile 1 EP even better again), having said that, if you do regular oil changes, at 35.24 per 5 litre.. .
You can't really go wrong, I mean its even cheaper than Nulon and Castrol edge at that price.

[dee-y]

Ok I don't know too much on engine oils, but I just realised my old man has some Shell Helix Ultra - Full Synth 5W-40. Any good?

[Fredoops]

Ok I don't know too much on engine oils, but I just realised my old man has some Shell Helix Ultra - Full Synth 5W-40. Any good?

For an accord v6 maybe, just slightly thick for the euro, cause euro like 30 weight oil, 40 just a tad thick, but you can use it.

[kryptonite]

super cheap auto has got the Edge on sale.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Castrol-Edge-Engine-Oil-5W-30-5-Litre.aspx?pid=299206&menuFrom=60104#Cross

[TheSaint]

i have been using the new Honda LEO oil

but im going to switch to Liqui Moly LEICHTLAUF SPECIAL LL 5W-30 for the next change

[Fredoops]

super cheap auto has got the Edge on sale.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Castrol-Edge-Engine-Oil-5W-30-5-Litre.aspx?pid=299206&menuFrom=60104#Cross

Jolly good I just run out of redline.

[TheSaint]

the previous owner of my euro was using redline - i put in Honda LEO (i think its a bit light tbh) on my first service and will be switching to Liqui Moly on the next one

what weight would the redline have been? he said he did a bulk order via ozhonda/amazon i think

[Fredoops]

Redline was 5w30

I had amazon bulk order as well, it was an amazon shipping error.

[blabla]

Has anyone tried to the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 or the Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40 (they do have 5w-30 available) on their Cu2

[ChaosMaster]

Has anyone tried to the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 or the Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40 (they do have 5w-30 available) on their Cu2

Not sure about shell, but Penrite 10 Tenths is Group 4 stuff, so it's all good. 10w40 is a bit thick though, as Honda is even recommending 0w20 for newer CU2. Having said that, it is summer, so 10w40 is fine.

[blabla]

Royal Purple or Motul? I have been given the choice of the 2 for my 80k service.

[Fredoops]

Royal Purple or Motul? I have been given the choice of the 2 for my 80k service.

No real need for either unless you redline the car all day everyday.

For a daily some Penrite Or mobil or Castrol synthetic would be sufficient.

Now, out of them 2 if you had to chose get the mutol 300V, the rest of the motul range is mediocre.

[stndrd]

Royal Purple or Motul? I have been given the choice of the 2 for my 80k service.

Just supply a bottle of Penrite HPR5 5W40 or 10 Tenths Racing 10W40. Don't pay a premium for oils that you won't see a benefit from on the street.

Also Chaosmaster, the 10 Tenths Racing/Premium range of oils is a mix of Group IV & V bases, as they have both PAO & Ester, along with the rest of the additives Penrite are well known for

[Rooster]

I'm gonna try HPR5 next service

[kristrifo]

started using nulon 5w-30 around 20xxxkm ago

never looked back since