Driveshaft questions

[shebangs]

I was changing pads/clutch, brake, and abs fluid on my DC2 yesterday and noticed both my inner and outter CV boots on the front are gone, and my FR steering boot is gone too.

How do you tell if you need a new driveshaft? Or if you can just replace the boots? 2 months ago my Tyre Shop told me my boots were gone, but I haven't had a chance to replace them.

There is a place in Cooperoo in Brisbane who do Drive shafts (reconditioned) and due to the labour difference, it's apparently not too bad to to just get new drive shafts?

Is there any reason to go new OEM (obviously a shit load more expensive)?

Finally, back to performance, when I finally get around to boosting the DC2 with an aim of 220-250fwkw, will the driveshaft be something you'd need to look into? Should I replace it with a stronger one now? I know VTEC Honda boxes and driveshafts etc are really strong, so I don't think so, but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,
Matt

[Drew]

Do the boots yourself dude

They are like $15 each...

You never need to replace your drive shafts; but your CV joints, unless you are pumping out insane power drive shafts themselves are not consumable so to say...

Do you hear a clicking sound when turning? No? Just get boots; Yes? Get new CVs in the form of change over drive shafts is the most economical and fastest way of doing it

[Kiz_EG6]

Second to that man, unless you get defected, i would not even bother reeplacing the boots, they are going to keep splitting in my experience (espcecially with lowered FWD's).

It does not seem to have a big effect on the performance of the part, i ran my 88 teg bout 70 000k's on split boots and neva heard a single click out of either of the cv's!

[shebangs]

Drew, so there's no need to worry until the CV starts clicking?

No noise or anything at the moment. It is spitting alot of grease everywhere though. I definately do not want it to cause anymore problems.

What about front left steering boot? It's definately broken, but doesn't seem like alot of grease. Is this something I should look into?

[Drew]

Get the boots and replace them yourself; fairly easy thing to do really...

Don't listen to Kiz_EG6 he's an idiot... If you don't replace the boots and re-grease them; you will kill the CV joints which are quite a bit more expensive than just the CV boots

[ekhybrid]

Don't listen to Kiz_EG6 he's an idiot...

indeed :)

[zx6r.j1]

Having transaxle with no boots is expensively insane :eek:

Replace the boots, both inner and outer while you're at it ($15 at Burson), or if technically challanged go to Drew I heard ...

[bennjamin]

Get the boots and replace them yourself; fairly easy thing to do really...

Don't listen to Kiz_EG6 he's an idiot... If you don't replace the boots and re-grease them; you will kill the CV joints which are quite a bit more expensive than just the CV boots

i wont say he is an idiot - no place for comments like that. But he is wrong.
Not right at all. Boots cost more money the more time you leave them as the joints or UV joint fills up with crap and runs dry of lube.

Just pay a local mech to do it probably max $70 a side.

[shebangs]

i wont say he is an idiot - no place for comments like that. But he is wrong.
Not right at all. Boots cost more money the more time you leave them as the joints or UV joint fills up with crap and runs dry of lube.

Just pay a local mech to do it probably max $70 a side.

Thanks ben, what about the steering boot? Should I fix this same time? Is it as cheap? Or can I leave it?

[Kiz_EG6]

i wont say he is an idiot - no place for comments like that. But he is wrong.
Not right at all. Boots cost more money the more time you leave them as the joints or UV joint fills up with crap and runs dry of lube.

Just pay a local mech to do it probably max $70 a side.

Difference of opinions guys!
I won't go back on what i said and i cannot believe i was negative repped for it!

Honestly, i have only ever changed CV boots when i have needed to to get a roadworthy, as i said, lowering a car can cause excessive damage on these and they may crack quite regularly, maybe i would advise to replace them on a daewoo or hyundai or something, but we are talking honda build quality here!

I was merely voicing an opinion based on my past experiences on this topic, maybe not the same as you guys think, but i do not think that is a reason to call me an idiot, or for that matter negative rep me for it!!

[riruiz_88]

hey dude, i got my CV boots from Driveline in Archerfield. they are really reliable and they specialise in underbodies. cost me bout 30bucks all round. their HQ are here in QLD but they do have shops in NSW and Vic aswell. and yeh i too have the same problem as you, split boot with little time to take it to a mech. DREW i thought they would cost a fair bit for labour, but now that you tell me roughly $70 a side ill take it one day while i at tafe. here is the website www.driveline.com.au

[bennjamin]

Difference of opinions guys!
I won't go back on what i said and i cannot believe i was negative repped for it!


Opinions is what breeds INCORRECT information. If someone views "your opinion" and takes it as "right" - they tell someone else the same info or worse yet do the wrong thing. You get neg rep for giving out wrong info plain and simple.

CV joint boots NEED to be replaced as soon as you can.
You CAN drive around abit with them torn (say enough until you can afford time to get them fixed etc) but you should never just leave them exposed as they will deteriorate quickly.

BTW shebangs , change the rack boots too as they serve the same purpose ( to keep lube in and dirt out)

[Kiz_EG6]

Opinions is what breeds INCORRECT information. If someone views "your opinion" and takes it as "right" - they tell someone else the same info or worse yet do the wrong thing. You get neg rep for giving out wrong info plain and simple.

CV joint boots NEED to be replaced as soon as you can.
You CAN drive around abit with them torn (say enough until you can afford time to get them fixed etc) but you should never just leave them exposed as they will deteriorate quickly.

BTW shebangs , change the rack boots too as they serve the same purpose ( to keep lube in and dirt out)

Sorry, i did not realise that all you wanted on this site was textbook answers which you could get by ringing any mechanic in the country!!

The reason that someone asks a question is to get a variety of opinions on it, and as i said, i have driven a car for an extended amount of time, with cracked boots and no problem with the cv joints arose!

[Drew]

i cannot believe i was negative repped for it!


Thanks for the reminder

[Jon_51]

i have driven a car for an extended amount of time, with cracked boots and no problem with the cv joints arose!

Taking your experience as an example of 'best case scenario' what do you think the 'worst case scenario' would be if a dramatic failure did occur to a neglected CV joint?

[Kiz_EG6]

Taking your experience as an example of 'best case scenario' what do you think the 'worst case scenario' would be if a dramatic failure did occur to a neglected CV joint?

Sorry, but i am not really prepared to comment on that, due to the FEAR of being negative repped ridiculous amounts for an honest, yet seemingly invalid response! :(

[JHMDA9]

To reiterate what others have said, replace the boots, unless you REALLY want to fork out money for the CV joints in a little while. I don't think there is any scientific data to show the "average" life of a CV joint with a cracked boot, so you can only guess at how long it will last.

The whole idea of having an intact boot is to ensure the grease is kept where it needs to be, and not splattered inside your guards and on your wheels. If CV joints could last an extended period without a boot and grease, then I'm sure manufacturers would see the light and save money on parts. This isn't the case so you have to wonder WHY they're there in the first place. Pretty obvious.

[shebangs]

Taking your experience as an example of 'best case scenario' what do you think the 'worst case scenario' would be if a dramatic failure did occur to a neglected CV joint?

You'd have to replace driveshaft.

Acccording to my local, $120 per side inner/outter CV. So x2. Or, $400 for both driveshafts. He told me to confirm 100% that it's not making any noise, otherwise it's worth the extra few dollars to do the entire driveshaft.

I just bought a house, so I've put back the CV Boots, again. I'll do them next month. I kind of agree with Kiz_EG6, they are important, yes, but definately not something you should take your car off the road for. Unless someone wants to prove me wrong.

[bennjamin]

Unless someone wants to prove me wrong.

Its like running your PS rack , or gearbox or engine with little or no fluid. It will prematurely wear.