Coilovers - Buddy Club N+ vs Tein Type Flex

[ig3o]

hey can anyone with experience give a comparison of these coilovers for a euro..
eg. handling, body roll, bumpiness, quality etc... thanks =)

- buddy club n+ coilovers
http://www.j-specmotorworks.com.au/zencart/images/Buddy%20Club%20RS.jpg

- tein type flex
http://www.wrxevolution.com/images/struts-tein-wrx-flex-stockpic-300.jpg

[BusterSonic12]

do a search, this been covered before with buddyclub vs tein ss vs tein flex

[aaronng]

N+ = 12 kg/mm front, 6 kg/mm rear
Flex = 10 kg/mm front, 6 kg/mm rear

Both come with an upper pillowball mount, both come with an adjustable lower mount, both are damper adjustable. The Flex is teflon coated, not sure about the N+. The Flex's pillowball mount doesn't last long though and will need a rebuilt or replacement every few years. If you don't replace them, you get a knocking sound when going over irregular surfaces (bumps are fine).

What you want to find out, the bumpiness, body roll and handling can all be adjusted based on the spring and damper rates. Alternatively, the Mono Flex has microvalving and a monotube design, which is better for low speed bumps as well.

[EuroAccord13]

Here's a review on the Buddy Club unit...
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67615

[EURON8]

buddy club n+ is good...

[mofolo]

i wanna get these coilovers
where is the cheapest place to get them in Vic?

[oat.iphone]

N+ = 12 kg/mm front, 6 kg/mm rear
Flex = 10 kg/mm front, 6 kg/mm rear

Both come with an upper pillowball mount, both come with an adjustable lower mount, both are damper adjustable. The Flex is teflon coated, not sure about the N+. The Flex's pillowball mount doesn't last long though and will need a rebuilt or replacement every few years. If you don't replace them, you get a knocking sound when going over irregular surfaces (bumps are fine).

What you want to find out, the bumpiness, body roll and handling can all be adjusted based on the spring and damper rates. Alternatively, the Mono Flex has microvalving and a monotube design, which is better for low speed bumps as well.


THe N+ is urethane pillowball, monotube, dunno if it's microvalving or not, had heard that Tein incur noise when goes over bump, is it truth - y is that - anyway to get rid of its ?

will the n+ be getting same problem? try to find out this for a while,

just a noob question, what's bodyroll? what do u meant by that?

lastly damper adjustable, is that same thing as camber kits? which allow to adjust camber rate? or u'll need additional front - rear camber kits ? friends said n+ - k'sports already come with front camber adjustability but might need to seek for rear camber kits, is this statement truth ???

PLS someone lead me the way to the correct - most suitable coilover for me [had done alots of research on this, but just some questions i ain't clear about its, thankz]

[aaronng]

THe N+ is urethane pillowball, monotube, dunno if it's microvalving or not, had heard that Tein incur noise when goes over bump, is it truth - y is that - anyway to get rid of its ?

will the n+ be getting same problem? try to find out this for a while,
The pillowball mounts will eventually make noise. Same for Tein, same for N+.



just a noob question, what's bodyroll? what do u meant by that?
Means the body of the car leans to side when you corner hard.



lastly damper adjustable, is that same thing as camber kits? which allow to adjust camber rate? or u'll need additional front - rear camber kits ? friends said n+ - k'sports already come with front camber adjustability but might need to seek for rear camber kits, is this statement truth ???
Damper is the part of the shock that absorbs the movement when you go over bumps. It is different to camber.

You won't have front camber adjustability with the Euro. That feature is only available on the DC5R because of the suspension design (Macpherson strut).

And yes, you should get a rear camber kit because it changes very drastically as you lower the car The front camber kit is optional because front camber doesn't change much when you lower the Euro.

[Crapdaz]

rofl ig30 if you ever want to feel what tein monoflex or N+ just ask one of us or come to one of the euro m33ts in the future.

i can vouch that tein SS and BC N+ are more comfy then tein MFP.

[oat.iphone]

The pillowball mounts will eventually make noise. Same for Tein, same for N+.


Means the body of the car leans to side when you corner hard.


Damper is the part of the shock that absorbs the movement when you go over bumps. It is different to camber.

You won't have front camber adjustability with the Euro. That feature is only available on the DC5R because of the suspension design (Macpherson strut).

And yes, you should get a rear camber kit because it changes very drastically as you lower the car The front camber kit is optional because front camber doesn't change much when you lower the Euro.


oh, i'd got that on mine too when i corner hard sometime on stockie, so once lower the car, this problem will occur right? anyway to prevent its right eg. strut bar or sway bar?

so u r saying when lower the car, the front camber rate wont change much but the rear will, hence will need to buy rear camber kits? am i correct? correct me plsz

what does it meant by damper adjustable ? is that something like spring rate? eg. 10 front n 7 rear seem to be the most comfy setting for euro, am i right?

many thankz

[aaronng]

oh, i'd got that on mine too when i corner hard sometime on stockie, so once lower the car, this problem will occur right? anyway to prevent its right eg. strut bar or sway bar?
You can use a stiffer sway bar to reduce bodyroll.



so u r saying when lower the car, the front camber rate wont change much but the rear will, hence will need to buy rear camber kits? am i correct? correct me plsz
That's right



what does it meant by damper adjustable ? is that something like spring rate? eg. 10 front n 7 rear seem to be the most comfy setting for euro, am i right?
It is different to spring rate, but it does affect comfort and some degree of stiffness

many thankz[/QUOTE]

[oat.iphone]

[QUOTE=aaronng;2187923]The pillowball mounts will eventually make noise. Same for Tein, same for N+.


so is it better off without pillowball mount? therefore it wont cost any noise but had read thread said, the coilover will need pillowball no matter what eg. tein basic n SS doesnt come with upper pillowball mount hence have to remove from stockie to add on

what kinda noise does it make n is it loud like noticable? also it occur on just when goes over bump or just all time while riding the car

thankz

[oat.iphone]

It is different to spring rate, but it does affect comfort and some degree of stiffness

what unit is it measure on? what's the best setting for comfort as in for this damper?

is it hard to adjust its? can be DIY or has to be done through mech?

thankz

[Crapdaz]

[quote=aaronng;2187923]The pillowball mounts will eventually make noise. Same for Tein, same for N+.


so is it better off without pillowball mount? therefore it wont cost any noise but had read thread said, the coilover will need pillowball no matter what eg. tein basic n SS doesnt come with upper pillowball mount hence have to remove from stockie to add on

what kinda noise does it make n is it loud like noticable? also it occur on just when goes over bump or just all time while riding the car

thankz
You need it because the euro is a pillowball mount suspension design.
It is a must.
Rattles because it's like a ball socket joint.
Noise level depends on the roughness of the road e.g potholes.

Yes SS don't come so you use the stock ones on the stock suspension remove and stick them onto the SS.
Tein flex and monoflex and BC N+ come with them already there.


It is different to spring rate, but it does affect comfort and some degree of stiffness

what unit is it measure on? what's the best setting for comfort as in for this damper?

is it hard to adjust its? can be DIY or has to be done through mech?

thankz
spring rate should be preloaded to sydney roads, from factory.
don't touch it, yes it does effect it but will be fine depending on what sussy you get.

spring rate is measured in kgf/mm

Damper setting depends on what type of sussy you get;
With Buddyclub N+ ; i know 10-7 is pretty good
With Tein SS; 12-10 or so was pretty soft too
With Tein MFP; i run on 8-6 for daily and still it's too rock solid.

[mofolo]

BuddyClub are obviously one of the main contenders in racing coil overs.

I don't plan on taking my baby to the track (well, not any time soon anyway).

What would be the better coil overs for street use without breaking the bank balance?

[Crapdaz]

If you want piss cheap then go D2 or Ksport but i'd stick with a reputable brand.
Each to their own though.

[oat.iphone]

If you want piss cheap then go D2 or Ksport but i'd stick with a reputable brand.
Each to their own though.

K'sports has spring rate of 12/7 similar to N+ which has 12/6, u can get em' for around 1400 from trader here, try search for K'sports reviews, had read some good thread about them but have never goes in any car that has its on

anyway share ur experience for this when u find out too plz as i'm deciding between K'sports vs N+, prob get mine done in a months time

thankz

[Crapdaz]

K'sports has spring rate of 12/7 similar to N+ which has 12/6, u can get em' for around 1400 from trader here, try search for K'sports reviews, had read some good thread about them but have never goes in any car that has its on

anyway share ur experience for this when u find out too plz as i'm deciding between K'sports vs N+, prob get mine done in a months time

thankz
Ksport is too soft for my liking;
Heard from a few mates on Ksport failing;

Buddyclub coilovers can be set stiff and won't be soft and bouncy like Ksport.
Buddyclub is more reputable in my mind;
Buddyclub wins hands down imo.

Don't take my word for it but from what i felt when driving .qd's car and only pushed the rear of a Ksport euro and it's so soft it bounces.

[aaronng]

and only pushed the rear of a Ksport euro and it's so soft it bounces.

That means the Ksport's dampers don't work at low bump speeds.

[Crapdaz]

That means the Ksport's dampers don't work at low bump speeds.
rofl, i can't remember what setting georgeeuro had set it on for the rears since his front didn't have any.

But i pushed it and i was like WTF, so bouncy.
As for our MFP and flex it won't budge

[mofolo]

mmm how much is piss cheap?

what about the average installation fee?

[Crapdaz]

might be had for $1500 but im not sure since AUD sucks

installation is around $250 min mark.

[mofolo]

its coming back up now

70cents.

Not to bad from the 50 cents it was 5 months ago.

But thats for another thread to discuss.

So Tiens or BC huh? I want a stiffer damper, but not something thats going to cost me $2300!

Might just have to save up the coin.

I hear you have to change the pillowball mount every so often? How much is that? Correct me if im wrong.

[Crapdaz]

i'm not sure about that since i haven't changed mine.

BC would be the go if you want comfort+performance or if you can get a set of tein SS and use the stock pillowball mount from the stock sussy.

its coming back up now

70cents.

Not to bad from the 50 cents it was 5 months ago.

But thats for another thread to discuss.

So Tiens or BC huh? I want a stiffer damper, but not something thats going to cost me $2300!

Might just have to save up the coin.

I hear you have to change the pillowball mount every so often? How much is that? Correct me if im wrong.

[aaronng]

I hear you have to change the pillowball mount every so often? How much is that? Correct me if im wrong.

You don't have to change it. Even when new, it can be noisy. My set is about 4.5 years now.

[jyh888]

just wanted to know the average life span of coilovers? (if just used for mainly street purposes and the occassional track)

Will running stiffest damper setting will that decrease the life span?

[detasemen88]

my Buddy CLub N+ on DC5 is making clunking noise (the rear, driver side).... i am yet to figure out what cause this..... any idea?

[jyh888]

my Buddy CLub N+ on DC5 is making clunking noise (the rear, driver side).... i am yet to figure out what cause this..... any idea?

is it new? mine is and it occassionally makes noises, i think its just due to compression, does any1 else have this problem on the bc n+?

[oat.iphone]

i do, it's typical noise which occur sometime when u goes over hump, even same with Tein SS too, think i read the tread somewhere here say, to prevent the noise u have to put rubber deadener between chassis n strut[correct me if i'm wrong]

[oat.iphone]

dude, this ebay guy has his N+ on sales for 1600[i called him to get this figure], used for 2000kms

not a bad deal...give its a try

[Crapdaz]

clunking should be from pillowball mounts.

[jyh888]

clunking should be from pillowball mounts.

i occassionally get clunking sounds on the rear, does that mean the pillowball mount is damaged or not in properly? cus my bc n+ are new....

btw what is the average life span on coilovers?

[aaronng]

i occassionally get clunking sounds on the rear, does that mean the pillowball mount is damaged or not in properly? cus my bc n+ are new....

btw what is the average life span on coilovers?

Pillowballs are noisy because they are made from hard polyurethane. The stock mount bushings are made from rubber, so it absorbs noise.

Mine are over 4 years old now. Still going good. Valves do give a hissing sound once in a while. Probably time to be revalved.

[detasemen88]

hi guys: Update: the clunking sound from the rear BC N+ had been eliminated. apparently i was informed that the spring was not sitting properly, and one of the nuts on the upper pillowball mount was a bit loose. so yeah it was good now

the new BC N+ cost around AUD 1,650.00. how much they cost in Oz?

[detasemen88]

what I am wondering now is, are the rear coilovers have shorter spring/strut compared to the OEM rear suspension?

cos' yesterday when i was making a turn to crawl up a steep ramp, my friend say that one of my rear wheel was hanging !! (it does not come to contact with the ground).
So i tried to park on the kerb, the same thing happen, when i was parking one of the rear wheel was off the ground too!!

is it normal? i am just worried for the safety issue here

[aaronng]

what I am wondering now is, are the rear coilovers have shorter spring/strut compared to the OEM rear suspension?

cos' yesterday when i was making a turn to crawl up a steep ramp, my friend say that one of my rear wheel was hanging !! (it does not come to contact with the ground).
So i tried to park on the kerb, the same thing happen, when i was parking one of the rear wheel was off the ground too!!

is it normal? i am just worried for the safety issue here

If you lower it, of course the total length will be shorter. Do you have a stiffer rear sway bar too? That causes 1 wheel to lift when going into uneven roads like a driveway.

[detasemen88]

as far as i know I dont have any aftermarket rear sway bar. but DC5 Type R, do they have one?

[aaronng]

as far as i know I dont have any aftermarket rear sway bar. but DC5 Type R, do they have one?

It shouldn't go up on one wheel unless you have your rear height set very very low then.

[detasemen88]

the fact that one of the rear wheels might be off the ground on uneven surfaces, will it put me in any danger? such as during hard cornering?

[detasemen88]

it is quite weird cos, they are not very very low, perhaps an inch lower than stock

[Crapdaz]

sounds more like your getting stuck on the rear subframe if your going off on one wheel.

are you scrapping and getting stuck when your going up the driveways?

[detasemen88]

sounds more like your getting stuck on the rear subframe if your going off on one wheel.

are you scrapping and getting stuck when your going up the driveways?

actually no scraping or getting stuck involved.

it was just like the rear coilover is not long enough (compared to the OEM shock/strut).

you know how when you lift up your rear part of the car, with the OEM shockl/strut the gap between the wheel and the wheel arch can be as big as 20 cm, but with the coilover, when I lift up the rear part of the car, the gap between the wheel and the arch is only about 10 cm.

that's the reason why the rear wheel is sometime off the ground when going though bad road conditons (we got lots of uneven surfaces, partial road bumps and potholes here).

[aaronng]

the fact that one of the rear wheels might be off the ground on uneven surfaces, will it put me in any danger? such as during hard cornering?

Nope, it's normal during hard cornering with stiff rear sway bars. The outer rear wheel will lift when cornering hard on the race track. You won't lift on the street. You will get lift if you are going up the driveway where 3 wheels touch the ground and 1 stays in the air. That's normal with stiffer suspension.

Have you checked if your coilovers are set to factory spec? What brand do you have? If they are buddyclub N+, then you adjust the rear height through the shock body and not through the spring, I think.

[detasemen88]

thanks AARONNG..... i will check with my garage, how they set up the rear coilover... from what i know at the moment it is very bumpy/ stiff..... I can feel the slightest bump on the street.... we are fine tuning the car now.... hope it will be better today....

Thanks so much for your inputs

[Chris_F]

To the best of my knowledge one wheel lifts off the ground becuase of one very simple reason:

The droop travel (downward travel) of the aftermarket suspension you have (buddyclub N+) is less than stock. This is most apparent in coilovers where you adjust the length of the shock body to alter the height of the car. When you do this you are reducing how much the suspension is able to droop (i.e. drop down). That's why, over irregular surfaces one wheel will lift up from the ground, the suspension is unable to droop far enough to reach the ground. This is 100% normal for that type of suspension and is not anything to be concerned about.

I have aftermarket coilovers (TEIN SS) but have never had a wheel off the ground like that. This is becuase the TEIN SS only allows you to adjust the spring perch. You can't alter the length of the shock body. Instead it changes how far the piston sits inside the shock. Because of this the TEIN SS (and similar coilovers) still have a great deal of droop travel and are much harder to "three wheel".

[detasemen88]

thanks CHRIS F..... actually i wanted to get TEIN, but the dealer had better deal with Buddy Club, so yeah Buddy Club is cheaper :)

[Crapdaz]

as stated you may have adjusted it incorrectly and shortened the spring preload.

[Chris_F]

^ it doesn't mean it's adjusted incorrectly.

Also, it's actually better to be able to be able to adjust the length of the shock. That way you can adjust spring pre-load seperately.

It just so happens when you adjust the length of the shock you have less droop (which isn't really a problem)

[Crapdaz]

^ it doesn't mean it's adjusted incorrectly.

Also, it's actually better to be able to be able to adjust the length of the shock. That way you can adjust spring pre-load seperately.

It just so happens when you adjust the length of the shock you have less droop (which isn't really a problem)
well it depends, if your changing height your not suppose to touch the preload, assuming his dc5 has the same setup as euro N+ the preload + height adjustment are separate same as tein mono flex.

NOTE: if you don't touch preload, because it's on the same sussy assembly when raising car the preload gets shorter and when lowering the preload gets larger.

[detasemen88]

thanks guys.... i was told that it is pretty normal with coil-over to have one of the rear wheel to be slightly off the ground during hard cornering, or when going over partial bump or uneven road surfaces due to its nature....

[Crapdaz]

thanks guys.... i was told that it is pretty normal with coil-over to have one of the rear wheel to be slightly off the ground during hard cornering, or when going over partial bump or uneven road surfaces due to its nature....
more so cause of it being lowered and the spring compression is not as long as the stock, as it was said earlier on. No worries as long as your car is not in pain :)

[detasemen88]

thanks mate!!! really appreciate your input

[jyh888]

well it depends, if your changing height your not suppose to touch the preload, assuming his dc5 has the same setup as euro N+ the preload + height adjustment are separate same as tein mono flex.

NOTE: if you don't touch preload, because it's on the same sussy assembly when raising car the preload gets shorter and when lowering the preload gets larger.

Darren can you explain to me what preload is? ive always been very confused with this, since i bought the buddyclub n+, i installed it myself over 2 nights (painfully, should have got it professionally done, but nevertheless gained a lot of experience). What has got me worrying is that, initially, i did not know how to adjust the height so i was playing around with the upper perch where you adjust the spring rate so therefore now all my coilovers are not set to the factory setting, i believe they have uneven spring rates because i adjusted it wrong, then i realised height adjustment was to adjust the lower perch.

When do we adjust the spring rate or preload? and why do we change it? When im driving i sometimes feel that my car's handling has gotten worse after installing the coilovers and it doesnt seem to be very stable as in straight on all four corners, is it possibly the inconsistent or uneven spring rate/load?

I've raised the car and even on stiff damper setting it bottoms out on even some of the lowest bumps...hard to cope with especially on sydney roads, is this because i have set the spring rate or load so that it compresses alot?

should i be adjusting this? and how do i kno what the factory setting is??

[Crapdaz]

adjust the spring perch which holds the springs stuffs your preload up.
preload is the distance your spring can compress.
If you shorten the spring it reduces your preload and vice versa to when you lengthen the distance, which ends up making the ride more harder because there is less compression room.

Spring rate doesn't change because your spring you got compresses @ a fixed rate to what ever it is designed to. So say for example if you change the spring on your coilover to something softer in spring rate then you might have a more comfier ride.

Spring rate - cannot be changed.
Preload - can be changed, imo if you left it stock should have been better but try lengthen the perch of the spring so the spring has more room to compress.

Most probably it is due to inconsistent lengths and different preloads.
Do you have a short preload length or long preload length?

How fast are you going when you bottom out? Where on the car are you hitting? How stiff are you running? What ride height are you running finger gaps ?



Darren can you explain to me what preload is? ive always been very confused with this, since i bought the buddyclub n+, i installed it myself over 2 nights (painfully, should have got it professionally done, but nevertheless gained a lot of experience). What has got me worrying is that, initially, i did not know how to adjust the height so i was playing around with the upper perch where you adjust the spring rate so therefore now all my coilovers are not set to the factory setting, i believe they have uneven spring rates because i adjusted it wrong, then i realised height adjustment was to adjust the lower perch.

When do we adjust the spring rate or preload? and why do we change it? When im driving i sometimes feel that my car's handling has gotten worse after installing the coilovers and it doesnt seem to be very stable as in straight on all four corners, is it possibly the inconsistent or uneven spring rate/load?

I've raised the car and even on stiff damper setting it bottoms out on even some of the lowest bumps...hard to cope with especially on sydney roads, is this because i have set the spring rate or load so that it compresses alot?

should i be adjusting this? and how do i kno what the factory setting is??

[jyh888]

adjust the spring perch which holds the springs stuffs your preload up.
preload is the distance your spring can compress.
If you shorten the spring it reduces your preload and vice versa to when you lengthen the distance, which ends up making the ride more harder because there is less compression room.

Spring rate doesn't change because your spring you got compresses @ a fixed rate to what ever it is designed to. So say for example if you change the spring on your coilover to something softer in spring rate then you might have a more comfier ride.

Spring rate - cannot be changed.
Preload - can be changed, imo if you left it stock should have been better but try lengthen the perch of the spring so the spring has more room to compress.

Most probably it is due to inconsistent lengths and different preloads.
Do you have a short preload length or long preload length?

How fast are you going when you bottom out? Where on the car are you hitting? How stiff are you running? What ride height are you running finger gaps ?

Thanks for the reply, i get what you mean now, i think i hav a shorter preload length so less room for compression. So should i be adjusting the preload of each coilover to be the same length? i.e. measure all 4 sides to be the same?

Im not going fast at all around 40 around slight bumpy roads near round abouts and i cant believe it bottoms out at the lip (the euro r lip kit) and height at the front is about 1-2 finger gaps, rear about 1gap, maybe i need to raise it slightly higher again? mayb 10-20mm?

[aaronng]

Thanks for the reply, i get what you mean now, i think i hav a shorter preload length so less room for compression. So should i be adjusting the preload of each coilover to be the same length? i.e. measure all 4 sides to be the same?

Im not going fast at all around 40 around slight bumpy roads near round abouts and i cant believe it bottoms out at the lip (the euro r lip kit) and height at the front is about 1-2 finger gaps, rear about 1gap, maybe i need to raise it slightly higher again? mayb 10-20mm?

Adjust the preload back to factory specs as per your installation manual. The height of the upper perch will be same for left and right, but different for front and rear. Read the manual to find the correct height. Then after that, you adjust the height of the car using the bottom mount.

[jyh888]

Adjust the preload back to factory specs as per your installation manual. The height of the upper perch will be same for left and right, but different for front and rear. Read the manual to find the correct height. Then after that, you adjust the height of the car using the bottom mount.

From what i remember, i dont think the manual has any information on factory settings...ill have a look but most of it is all in jap lol...if i cant find the factory settings, how much preload should i adjust??

[aaronng]

From what i remember, i dont think the manual has any information on factory settings...ill have a look but most of it is all in jap lol...if i cant find the factory settings, how much preload should i adjust??

The perch height will be expressed in numbers, so you will know. They should use a diagram to show which dimension it is and a number to show the perch height. Read the manual, even if it is in Japanese. Not easy, but essential.

Worst case, take a photo of the manual page and post it up here so we can read it for you.

[Crapdaz]

Adjust the preload back to factory specs as per your installation manual. The height of the upper perch will be same for left and right, but different for front and rear. Read the manual to find the correct height. Then after that, you adjust the height of the car using the bottom mount.
As Mr aaron has said :)
You need to set it back to stock as what they were and you shouldn't have had any problems.
Look in the manual and it should tell you the height it suppose to be.
Otherwise you will need to compare with someone who hasn't touched there preload.

what damper setting are you running? (clockwise or anti clockwise did you turn?)

[jyh888]

Ok thanks guys will have a look soon, damper setting is quite stiff front 12 and rear 10, had to adjust front stiffer otherwise would bottom out a lot!

[Crapdaz]

Ok thanks guys will have a look soon, damper setting is quite stiff front 12 and rear 10, had to adjust front stiffer otherwise would bottom out a lot!
i know my teins on 0/0 won't bottom out but then again they are rock.
goodluck with the problem, hope you find a fix.

[detasemen88]

does K SPORT has the same setup as BUDDY CLUB n+ ?? I found the ENGLISH manual for K SPORT which might help me and JYH888

www.ksportusa.com/edocs/Coilover%20Instructions.pdf

[Crapdaz]

does K SPORT has the same setup as BUDDY CLUB n+ ?? I found the ENGLISH manual for K SPORT which might help me and JYH888

www.ksportusa.com/edocs/Coilover%20Instructions.pdf (http://www.ksportusa.com/edocs/Coilover%20Instructions.pdf)

each coilover has there own setup because each sussy has a diff design on the body, thread length, spring length etc.
you can give it a go but it doesn't say what the preload in that article.

[detasemen88]

that's it, i am gonna bring the car in to the professional garage. probably cost around 20 bucks to get them re-done.

I went there today, but it is already too late, they asked me to bring the car in early tomorrow morning, then take about 4 hours to get them correctly uninstalled, pre-set, installed, and fine tuned.....

i will keep you guys posted

[Crapdaz]

that's it, i am gonna bring the car in to the professional garage. probably cost around 20 bucks to get them re-done.

I went there today, but it is already too late, they asked me to bring the car in early tomorrow morning, then take about 4 hours to get them correctly uninstalled, pre-set, installed, and fine tuned.....

i will keep you guys posted
more like $100 i reckon.

[aaronng]

Someone scan and post up your Buddyclub N+ manual and I'll read out the settings for you...........

[Crapdaz]

Someone scan and post up your Buddyclub N+ manual and I'll read out the settings for you...........

HAHAHHAHAHAHHA aaron you can be called FATHER!!!
please hold my hand when you read out the specs... :p

give them our specs for the flex + mfp. :p:p:p:p:p

[detasemen88]

They are in JAPANESE mate!!!
you read Japanese AARONNG?

CRAPDAZ.... labour here is dirt cheap, actually the car was inspected briefly. they said the spring was too stiff/ compressed, and it was incorrectly installed. i asked him how much, and he said around 20 bucks in AUD

[Crapdaz]

They are in JAPANESE mate!!!
you read Japanese AARONNG?

CRAPDAZ.... labour here is dirt cheap, actually the car was inspected briefly. they said the spring was too stiff/ compressed, and it was incorrectly installed. i asked him how much, and he said around 20 bucks in AUD
sorry i forgot you weren't in oz....
the manual should have some dimension which means for the stock and preload height etc.

[aaronng]

They are in JAPANESE mate!!!
you read Japanese AARONNG?

CRAPDAZ.... labour here is dirt cheap, actually the car was inspected briefly. they said the spring was too stiff/ compressed, and it was incorrectly installed. i asked him how much, and he said around 20 bucks in AUD

It can be in mexican, indian or hyena. I'll find out the spec for you if you post it up. ;)

And yes, I read japanese.

[detasemen88]

you're a genius dude...

well.... i'm gonna bring to car in to a pro suspension garage tomorrow, keep my finger crossed, hopefully it will be perfet , thanks Aaron

[Crapdaz]

it can be in mexican, indian or hyena. I'll find out the spec for you if you post it up. ;)

and yes, i read japanese.
wtf aaron you read japanesie!!! -___________-

[aaronng]

wtf aaron you read japanesie!!! -___________-

Yup. hahahaha...

[oat.iphone]

yesssssssssssssssssSSss, pretty pleaseeeeeeeeE, someone POST BC N+ manual, i need its too, as i'd just got mine installed for $200 recently, but i'll need to learn how to adjust the heights...many thankz

[Crapdaz]

yesssssssssssssssssSSss, pretty pleaseeeeeeeeE, someone POST BC N+ manual, i need its too, as i'd just got mine installed for $200 recently, but i'll need to learn how to adjust the heights...many thankz

pretty straight forward to adjust the height you only use the lower strut perch.

do not touch the spring perch.
turning the coilover body clockwise - lowering
turning the coilover body anti clockwise - raising.

[oat.iphone]

pretty straight forward to adjust the height you only use the lower strut perch.

do not touch the spring perch.
turning the coilover body clockwise - lowering
turning the coilover body anti clockwise - raising.

u meant the black perch on the bottom - those two top perch not too touch its as it's for pre-load spring?

correct me if i'm wrong pls crapdaz, anyway when is the next euro cruise... may be i can bring my car over, let hope there will be someone who feel for me n kindly showly as my english is suck, hence practical will be better than words for me....thank u

[detasemen88]

REPORT: finally i got the ride height and the softness i want. If i am not mistaken (cos i watch them yesterday), the balck perch is to set the height. the perch under the spring is to compress/decompress the spring tension.

Am I right CRAPDAZ? apparently when i first complained that the ride was too stiff was because the first guy who installed the coilover adjusted the perch underneath the spring, and made the spring too short, thus making the ride too harsh

yesterday the pro guy, re-adjusted the spring perch, so the sping was de-compressed by about 1.5 cm!!! after that the ride was almost like stock quality (i dont like stiff ride, hence i turn to maximum softness)...

so thanks CRAPDAZ, your info in the last few pages helped me so much....

by the was I also got myself 18' RAYS CE28 White Time Attack series yeaterday.... it was rare item, and i was lucky to find them. I traded in my 19' RAYS CE28 Bronze, cos 19' with low profile tyres suck. i am very happy now :)

[oat.iphone]

by the was I also got myself 18' RAYS CE28 White Time Attack series yeaterday.... it was rare item, and i was lucky to find them. I traded in my 19' RAYS CE28 Bronze, cos 19' with low profile tyres suck. i am very happy now :)[/QUOTE]

same as my case, when my installer first installed my N+, i found its too stiff, the car was sitting real low rear n full high front, so i went to the other place to correct its, now sitting 1 rear, 2 front [finger gap unit]

later i adjust the damper to F-10 R-7, i suspected my last installer place adjusted my heights by lowering my two top perch[i aint have much knowledge in this hence i dont know what he does with its], on the smooth road, the car is nice - firm as stock, but on the bumpy road i can feel the spring on the shock bouncing... is this cause by touching the pre-load spring ?

anyway i found only 1 spanner - lose another, will b buying pair from BC outlets soon, so my last installer said he locked the perch one by one, then do the smaller perch with the spanner with the hammer tap

did this sound right for adjusted the heights, as in my mind from reading this thread, from my dumb knowledge, i assume u only play with the black bottom perch to raise it up or down, so u dont really need spanner for this

correct me if i'm wrong please, i'm kinda confuse for this part heaps

thankz

[detasemen88]

that sounds like my case in the first place..... yes they should not have palyed around with the spring perch (the two red coloured perch); instead they should have adjusted the balck perch.

if you have found the car to be comfy enough, you don;t need to adjust the spring perch any longer (hence dont need the 2nd spanner).. yes i agree on the smooth road it is perfect, but on curly/ bumpy, ride coud be abit harsh, i will try this for a week, if not i will try to de-compress the sping a bit more....

by the way N+ comes with 15 damping adjustment right? what do you think will be a good setting? for F and R? i am currently sitting on 1 click from the softest (both F and R).

[jyh888]

that sounds like my case in the first place..... yes they should not have palyed around with the spring perch (the two red coloured perch); instead they should have adjusted the balck perch.

if you have found the car to be comfy enough, you don;t need to adjust the spring perch any longer (hence dont need the 2nd spanner).. yes i agree on the smooth road it is perfect, but on curly/ bumpy, ride coud be abit harsh, i will try this for a week, if not i will try to de-compress the sping a bit more....

by the way N+ comes with 15 damping adjustment right? what do you think will be a good setting? for F and R? i am currently sitting on 1 click from the softest (both F and R).

10/7 seems to be pretty comfortable for most people on bc n+, if your lip is low you probably want the front stiffer so it doesnt bottom out on bumps, play around with the damper since its very easy to adjust and see what you like :)

[K24A]

which way do u turn the knob so that its fully firm?

[aaronng]

which way do u turn the knob so that its fully firm?

Turn fully clockwise for full firm

[detasemen88]

thanks JHY888 and AARON....

[detasemen88]

but we are not supposed to go over 15 clicks right? which way is it? no more than 15 clicks clockwise or anti-clockwise?

[detasemen88]

1 dumb question: how so you know that if your ride is too stiff or too firm? at the moment i am trying 1 click front and 1 click rear from softest (cos we have a damn lot of potholes and bumpy roads). whenever there is a bump, i feel that my car bounce too much (like a trampolin), is it too soft?

[aaronng]

1 dumb question: how so you know that if your ride is too stiff or too firm? at the moment i am trying 1 click front and 1 click rear from softest (cos we have a damn lot of potholes and bumpy roads). whenever there is a bump, i feel that my car bounce too much (like a trampolin), is it too soft?

If it bounces like a trampoline (up and down without slowing down), then you can increase the damper a bit. Try 4 clicks from softest and see if the bouncing is reduced. The damper controls how fast the movement is absorbed, not the stiffness.

[Crapdaz]

1 dumb question: how so you know that if your ride is too stiff or too firm? at the moment i am trying 1 click front and 1 click rear from softest (cos we have a damn lot of potholes and bumpy roads). whenever there is a bump, i feel that my car bounce too much (like a trampolin), is it too soft?


If it bounces like a trampoline (up and down without slowing down), then you can increase the damper a bit. Try 4 clicks from softest and see if the bouncing is reduced. The damper controls how fast the movement is absorbed, not the stiffness.

As aaron said,

Just need to keep playing until you find the appropriate setting for your ride comfort etc.

[detasemen88]

guys... now that the rear clunking noise had gone.... i am now faced with new problem: the thumping (not clunking) sound from the front Driver's side.

bring the car to get inspected, nothing wrong with the car and its suspension system (though the lower arm bushing is slightly worn, but they said should not be the source). could it be coming from the coilover itself.

only happen on bad / irregular road surfaces, potholes and speed bumps.... sounds like loose hard rubber or something hitting non-metal surface.....

i am getting pissed with these coilover things

[lindz234]

Does anyone have tein flex, or mono flex that in Melbourne? I really want to sit in a car before forking out $2400+

I want a harder ride, I'm defiantly planning on doing track days. 5-6 times a year more if possible. I really want to get a really good coilover kit. Nothing cheap. The SS seems to cheap. (although better for the street) is the anything that does both really well?

But everyone has different opinions. Some say mono flex is to hard for the street, others say its not. One guy told me that mono flex is only worth having if you have semi-slick tyres (according to a industry professional (fulcrumsuspensions) guy.

Also can some one explain this. Is the mono flex a softer ride then the Flex? because its spring rate is lower? And similar to the SS? Or are the shocks way stiffer or something.

Spring rates.
(Mono flex) 9/504, 6/336
(Flex) 14/783, 8/448
(SS) 10/559, 6/336

Spring rates taken for http://www.tein.com/price/acura.html

[tony1234]

Does anyone have tein flex, or mono flex that in Melbourne? I really want to sit in a car before forking out $2400+

I want a harder ride, I'm defiantly planning on doing track days. 5-6 times a year more if possible. I really want to get a really good coilover kit. Nothing cheap. The SS seems to cheap. (although better for the street) is the anything that does both really well?

But everyone has different opinions. Some say mono flex is to hard for the street, others say its not. One guy told me that mono flex is only worth having if you have semi-slick tyres (according to a industry professional (fulcrumsuspensions) guy.

Also can some one explain this. Is the mono flex a softer ride then the Flex? because its spring rate is lower? And similar to the SS? Or are the shocks way stiffer or something.

Spring rates.
(Mono flex) 9/504, 6/336
(Flex) 14/783, 8/448
(SS) 10/559, 6/336

Spring rates taken for http://www.tein.com/price/acura.html
Forget coilovers.Get Bilstein shocks,Eibach springs.No squeaks or creaks,nice tight ride,not too firm.There's a few of us here with this setup

[Crapdaz]

Does anyone have tein flex, or mono flex that in Melbourne? I really want to sit in a car before forking out $2400+

I want a harder ride, I'm defiantly planning on doing track days. 5-6 times a year more if possible. I really want to get a really good coilover kit. Nothing cheap. The SS seems to cheap. (although better for the street) is the anything that does both really well?

But everyone has different opinions. Some say mono flex is to hard for the street, others say its not. One guy told me that mono flex is only worth having if you have semi-slick tyres (according to a industry professional (fulcrumsuspensions) guy.

Also can some one explain this. Is the mono flex a softer ride then the Flex? because its spring rate is lower? And similar to the SS? Or are the shocks way stiffer or something.

Spring rates.
(Mono flex) 9/504, 6/336
(Flex) 14/783, 8/448
(SS) 10/559, 6/336

Spring rates taken for http://www.tein.com/price/acura.html

It's a different ride,

I had Tein MFP and i sat in Aaronng Tein Flex & Akina SS and both were alot more comfortable, even more so for BC N+.

[taccord12]

So flex is just a bit stiffer than SS? anyone know if the normal FLEX is the same stiffness as the new FLEX for sedan they made for the CU2 ?

[aaronng]

So flex is just a bit stiffer than SS? anyone know if the normal FLEX is the same stiffness as the new FLEX for sedan they made for the CU2 ?
For CL9
Flex is a lot stiffer than SS because of the higher spring rate and damper rate)
Monoflex is stiffer than Flex because of the more effective damper at low speeds.

[aaronng]

Spring rates.
(Mono flex) 9/504, 6/336
(Flex) 14/783, 8/448
(SS) 10/559, 6/336

Spring rates taken for http://www.tein.com/price/acura.html

Are you buying US spec or Jap spec? My flex is Jap spec and it has a spring rate of 10 kg/mm (front) and 6 kg/mm (rear)

[taccord12]

For CL9
Flex is a lot stiffer than SS because of the higher spring rate and damper rate)
Monoflex is stiffer than Flex because of the more effective damper at low speeds.

Yeah, i was just hoping that new flex for sedan wouldn't be as stiff, i guess i'll be sticking with my SS

[N3M3SIS]

just to chip in, has anyone had any experence with BC Coilovers?

[Crapdaz]

nemesis - Send .QD a pm and he'll tell you about it.
_________Not sure who else has tried them


Are you buying US spec or Jap spec? My flex is Jap spec and it has a spring rate of 10 kg/mm (front) and 6 kg/mm (rear)
and jap MFP has 10/6.

[aaronng]

nemesis - Send .QD a pm and he'll tell you about it.
_________Not sure who else has tried them


and jap MFP has 10/6.

Jap MFP should be 9/6 according to their website. http://www.tein.co.jp/search/search1.cgi?act=ITEM&item=MFP&make=HONDA&lang=ja

[EURO1dr]

Tony1234, what do we expect to pay for the bilstein shocks? I was thinking of eibach with koni yellows and apparently Koni Yellows are made in China now and Bilstein shocks are still made in Germany. I could get the Eibach's for around AUD380.00 to AUD420 depending on the exhange rate.

[tony1234]

Tony1234, what do we expect to pay for the bilstein shocks? I was thinking of eibach with koni yellows and apparently Koni Yellows are made in China now and Bilstein shocks are still made in Germany. I could get the Eibach's for around AUD380.00 to AUD420 depending on the exhange rate.
Approx.$1100-$1200 i think.Get them with Eibach springs.You wont regret it!

[EURO1dr]

Prokit or sportline combo with Bilstein?

[tony1234]

Prokit or sportline combo with Bilstein?
Prokit.Approx.35mm drop.Just right.:thumbsup:

[BraXta]

i see everyone is always talkin about these 2 coilovers alot... what about HKS Hypermax (http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=3436) coiloovers ?? anyone heard anything about them ?

[tknova]

Does anyone have tein flex, or mono flex that in Melbourne? I really want to sit in a car before forking out $2400+

I want a harder ride, I'm defiantly planning on doing track days. 5-6 times a year more if possible. I really want to get a really good coilover kit. Nothing cheap. The SS seems to cheap. (although better for the street) is the anything that does both really well?

But everyone has different opinions. Some say mono flex is to hard for the street, others say its not. One guy told me that mono flex is only worth having if you have semi-slick tyres (according to a industry professional (fulcrumsuspensions) guy.

Also can some one explain this. Is the mono flex a softer ride then the Flex? because its spring rate is lower? And similar to the SS? Or are the shocks way stiffer or something.

Spring rates.
(Mono flex) 9/504, 6/336
(Flex) 14/783, 8/448
(SS) 10/559, 6/336

Spring rates taken for http://www.tein.com/price/acura.html

Hey,

I'm in Melbourne and running Jap Spec Tein Monoflex in my Euro.

Firm ride. Most people say it's comfortable enough. But, it's each to their own. I love the ride myself :)

Only problem is that the front rides fine on 8 clicks. The rear on the other hand. Is at softest setting and it's alot stiffer than the front. I would say it's due to having to weight in the rear.

I'm more than happy to take you for a spin so you can get a feel for it.

PM me if interested.

[racerwannabe]

Tony1234, what do we expect to pay for the bilstein shocks? I was thinking of eibach with koni yellows and apparently Koni Yellows are made in China now and Bilstein shocks are still made in Germany. I could get the Eibach's for around AUD380.00 to AUD420 depending on the exhange rate.

Koni yellows are made in Holland! well at least thats the case for the set i bought 2 months ago.

[aaronng]

Hey,

I'm in Melbourne and running Jap Spec Tein Monoflex in my Euro.

Firm ride. Most people say it's comfortable enough. But, it's each to their own. I love the ride myself :)

Only problem is that the front rides fine on 8 clicks. The rear on the other hand. Is at softest setting and it's alot stiffer than the front. I would say it's due to having to weight in the rear.

I'm more than happy to take you for a spin so you can get a feel for it.

PM me if interested.
There is less weight in the rear and hence less inertia (roughly 60/40 weight split for front and rear), so even at the lowest damper setting, it is damping very quickly to absorb the movement, making it feel stiff at the rear.

[tknova]

There is less weight in the rear and hence less inertia (roughly 60/40 weight split for front and rear), so even at the lowest damper setting, it is damping very quickly to absorb the movement, making it feel stiff at the rear.

The suspension place said something similar to that. I'm still a happy customer with the monoflex's.

aarong, you've had the flex installed for awhile. Still going strong?

[BraXta]

lol why is my question being dodged =P heheh

[Razer]

hey guys, what did everyone do about the two plastic "flaps" on either ends of the front bumper? (at the bottom) Because my mechanic did not cut it off...and it just scrapes the floor everywhere i go. thanks!!

[aaronng]

hey guys, what did everyone do about the two plastic "flaps" on either ends of the front bumper? (at the bottom) Because my mechanic did not cut it off...and it just scrapes the floor everywhere i go. thanks!!

Are you talking about the mudflaps??? If they are the mudflaps, just take them off.

[Razer]

Are you talking about the mudflaps??? If they are the mudflaps, just take them off.

Im not sure if they are mudflaps, but they are stuck onto the wheel well piece of plastic where the intake draws its air from.

[aaronng]

Im not sure if they are mudflaps, but they are stuck onto the wheel well piece of plastic where the intake draws its air from.

Ohhh, those are the air diffusers. They are the ones just in front of the wheel, right? Leave those there. If you remove them, the car's drag coefficient will increase.

[Razer]

Ohhh, those are the air diffusers. They are the ones just in front of the wheel, right? Leave those there. If you remove them, the car's drag coefficient will increase.

ooooh alright aaron. thanks for that. So i assume you leave it on and just let it scrape? cos my one scrapes everytime I go on a ramp, back home, or speed bump and it sounds kinda nasty.....

[aaronng]

ooooh alright aaron. thanks for that. So i assume you leave it on and just let it scrape? cos my one scrapes everytime I go on a ramp, back home, or speed bump and it sounds kinda nasty.....

Your car must be very very low if you are able to scrape them.

[Razer]

Your car must be very very low if you are able to scrape them.

Erm...im not sure if its THAT low...just check out my thread of my car...I think its just a bit lower than other eurps.....

[oongie]

I had the thing on my n+ but that was with the 16" stokies tucked in all round. Looked awesome though but impractical