budget upgrade for civic

[thc86]

hey guys,
i am looking at making my car go a bit faster or maybe drive smoother a bit would be great if i dun get flamed :) dun really want to spend too much for now maybe around the 200-1k range..

i just bought a EG d16y1 engine 1994 sedan with stock parts only

cheers :)

looking at upgrading my speakers also.. maybe getting it for front and back so 4 stero speakers whats are the better ones? i like to turn up my speakers on occasion (for myself to hear whenever i hear the songs i like)also looking at the 200-8k range. the current speakers i only hear from the back and sounds monotonous. lol

cheers

[95civic]

I would personally say get an exhaust and possibly rims OR spend it all on upgrading your suspension ( do it properly the 1st time )

All else fails, search, heaps of people ask these questions.

[Jamezy]

get a custom after market catback exhaust which is around 300 to 400 depends where u get it from and a simota intake system which will be around 200 to 350 depends if u want cold air intake or short ram intake but i say get the cold air much more beta .. these mods will be easily under 1k with easy power gains :thumbsup: if u get a bit more money you can get headers as well .. but IMO get those 2 mods 1st ..

[thc86]

been searching the forums but i dun understand much..

for the speakers can anyone describe what this means? i got this off another thread :P

http://www.ryda.com.au/Clarion-SCM400-6-Split-System-p/scm400.htm
http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=314

[Vinnie]

been searching the forums but i dun understand much..

for the speakers can anyone describe what this means? i got this off another thread :P

http://www.ryda.com.au/Clarion-SCM400-6-Split-System-p/scm400.htm
http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=314

split (component) speakers are where the tweeter (small speaker dedicated to higher frequencies) is seperate from the mid driver (the larger speaker, usually 6.5 inch) as opposed to coaxials where they are together. they are more expensive but the main benefit is the ability to position the tweeter away from the mid in order to help sound quality. if ur running on a pretty tight budget i understand jaycar have some decent products in that price range as well. :)

[Chuckz]

suspensions first for handling, next would be rims, strut bars and body kit :)

[SiReal]

theres no point in having good suspension if u have sh1t tyres. u'll just break traction and be all over the road sooner than you think.

speakers, i'm running clarion slimline 6" fronts, alpine rears, 1RCA alpine headunit, mtx sub, alpine amp. All second hand off mates or eBay or brand new on special. Cost me under $450 total for my system. And I think, it sounds blardy awesome. no need to spend big bucks unless ur an audiophile.

[Chuckz]

yes... and tyres as well :)

[beeza]

Look to buy all your parts on here,ozhonda=cheapest.
1st do Intake,exhaust,headers=best bang for ya buck then Suspension Rims and Tyres,Lower it,Sway bar's.

[EG5[KRT]]

drop it like its hot on king springs :D cheap and effective

btw i got some for sale :D

[beeza]

^^ Haha Nice one Trav :)
And I second that too!

[SeverAMV]

if you're looking for a bit more power, maybe intake, exhausts, extractors, sparkies, and ignition leads for under 1k-ish (may take some looking around).

if you want handling, head to ebay. you can get a set of skunk2 pro-c coilovers for US$550+delivery, and get front and rear struts and ties for US$30-40+delivery.

[dsp26]

theres no point in having good suspension if u have sh1t tyres. u'll just break traction and be all over the road sooner than you think.


agree 200%!!

dampenining and spring rates always stiffen up over standard/oem therefore on hard brake the suspension system can't compress and absorb as much inertial force therefore causing tyres to lockup sooner... this is evident on those $20 ebay coilover sleeves (which i had).. the ones i bought were rated at 16Kg/cm^2

and on top off that if you get coilovers, most people do it to dump the car and don't correct the camber... already there you've lost half your tyres in traction area.

not many people take this into consideration....

[markCivicVti]

Is it fairly important to adjust the camber if you just dropping a modest 1.5" ot 2" max?

[dsp26]

Is it fairly important to adjust the camber if you just dropping a modest 1.5" ot 2" max?

hard to say... it can be calculated somewhat mathematically though but you can see it visually if its rooted.

Hard to explain without diagrams.. but generally...
- wheel camber pivots of the LCA
- lower a car and wheels pivot upwards...
- top of the wheel goes in.. bottom of wheel goes out, therefore outside of the tyres get less contact with the road even though it looks flat.. it's coz you also have to kep in mind car weight and tyre pressure and whats being exerted on that inner part.
- vice versa when you raise

Thats why you get inner tyre wear from lowering a car... you get negative camber. in saying that it's not bad... i just think anything lower than -2.5 camber is excessive for daily driving.


i'll paintbrush a diagram tonight if it helps :p

[cristian]

agree 200%!!

dampenining and spring rates always stiffen up over standard/oem therefore on hard brake the suspension system can't compress and absorb as much inertial force therefore causing tyres to lockup sooner... this is evident on those $20 ebay coilover sleeves (which i had).. the ones i bought were rated at 16Kg/cm^2

and on top off that if you get coilovers, most people do it to dump the car and don't correct the camber... already there you've lost half your tyres in traction area.

not many people take this into consideration....

i was always wondering why u got urs so damn cheap man...

[dsp26]

i was always wondering why u got urs so damn cheap man...

no brother they weren't cheap.... shipping was in excess of US$100....

handled good though combined with my KYBs yeah? just too stiff for parramatta road lol.

[SeverAMV]

just because your tyres shoulder blocks have less contact with the road doesnt mean that you have less grip. if you keep the camber within 1-3 degrees, you can increase the contact patch and use the main grippy patch of the tyres for your cornering, which can help maximise grip.
but yeah, not a good idea to dump it too far. if you dump it far enough to camber out your wheels, it does more than give you camber, it destroys your car's suspension geometry. the main idea behind lowering a car is to lower the car's centre of gravity. if you lower it too far, instead of being at the ideal point at the centre of your undercarriage, it drops down to below your car, which is as bad as having your car raised a foot off the ground.
there's apparently a lot of complex mathematics involved, but unless you plan on forking out money for expensive camber kits, you can just keep the drop to a minimal. and i think with the skunk items, they come with a set of allen keys for adjusting the ride height, so you can play around with it yourself to find the ideal ride height. with the remainder of the 1k, you could get your car corner balanced if you really want to (may give you 50:50 front: rear left:right distribution, but destroys aerodynamics).

[aimre]

theres no point doing suspension. Its just a civic. Just get some lowered spring so it looks a bit better.

Put a diffrent muffler on it for some noise, as cat back make NO performance benifits. Well maybe like 1kw.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/EXHAUST-MUFFLER-4-5-TIP-STAINLESS-STEEL-CANNON-ROAR-61_W0QQitemZ150160776674QQihZ005QQcategoryZ130633Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

As for intake, buy a fake one off ebay for $50. I cant justify paying $300 for a tube with a bend. Then go buy a simota pod from repco for $30

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Honda-Civic-92-95-EG-high-flow-air-intake-FREE-FILTER_W0QQitemZ300147752012QQihZ020QQcategoryZ366 80QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[aimre]

now watch all the boy racer have a go at me

[Simmo2302]

theres no point doing suspension. Its just a civic. Just get some lowered spring so it looks a bit better.

Put a diffrent muffler on it for some noise, as cat back make NO performance benifits. Well maybe like 1kw.



As for intake, buy a fake one off ebay for $50. I cant justify paying $300 for a tube with a bend. Then go buy a simota pod from repco for $30



i agree, not point in going overboard

cheapie cold air intake from ebay
lower springs (from pedders?) for that low look

ur choice
1.muffler 4 sound
2.catback & muffler 4 sound, (maybe 1kw of performance increase)
3. headers, hi-flow cat, muffler all with increased diameter piping for performance gain + sound.

bodykit for a sporty look.

as for sound my first car ('83 colt) had:-
4x 6.5" supercheap auto speakers,
old pioneer head-deck,
boss 1200W amp (cheap bottom of range from strathfield) and
2x 1000W 12" subs from cash converters (US Turbo brand, cheap import)

and it sounded loud as, amp was only on 3/4 power and same on head deck and u'd get chest pains from the bass.

now i got all good pioneer in my new car and it sounds the same to me, maybe a lil better.

i have heard "Fusion" brand is good quality vs. Money.

anyway thats my opinion for people who dont wanna go crazy, who just want a nice looking & sounding car.

if anything is incorrect plz feel free to correct me. :)

[aimre]

for audio. The best bang for buck is Jaycars "response" brand. Been in many car magz and always been voted very high

[NightKids]

aimre is right, audio on a budget you cannot go past the Jaycar brand. Now with their new 6" component systems it makes installing a whole lot easier too!

[OMG.JAI xD]

lol ..

i agree with ebay :D

with 1.5grand i got the following, and im not kidding.

-Angel eyes projectors
-Complete sound system with, 2 amps, 2 12" subs, and 2 6.9"
-Another headunit with dvd n bluetooth
-one stupid, cheap CAI
-TopFuel PowerChamber CAI
-scissor doors
-6 H1 pure white globes


n i got 17" rims off OH
n i got interior paint from super cheap.
n some speaker wiring cables from RYDA.

all costed like .. 1.5 ish
its worth it though.
then agn im more into sounds n cosmetics rather than performance.
i mean if i had all the money to waste on performance i would build up the engine but .. meh .. rather stick to somethin taht will satisfy..

no point going slow on a fast car wen you know you can go fast on a slow car :D
did evrythin mah self, obviously saved a bit of money there,

[dsp26]

lol i thought i was the only sad ****er who buys everything from ebay.. i agree with you all lol.

even the brand stuff... cheaper than anyone sells here

[z3lda]

3. headers, hi-flow cat, muffler all with increased diameter piping for performance gain + sound.


if anything is incorrect plz feel free to correct me. :)

incorrect lol.

his pos civic will still be shit slow, dont bother wasting your money on anything pass the muffler.

just get a muffler if u want to sound like a ricer, but other than that, dont even bother with catback or header. i woludnt even bother putting on a CAI. Cause in the end, your car will still be shit slow.

[dc2dc2dc2]

i concur with the above statment

z3lda can go EAD

[z3lda]

i concur with the above statment

z3lda can go EAD

flop it out

[SeverAMV]

bugger the high flow cat, civic's dont have enough flow to need one. theres an optimal piping diameter for the best power as well, so its probably not a good idea to go past 2.5inch diameter unless you want to lose power.

@ suspension comment - it may not have much power, but it weighs a tad bit less than an integra, and match that with suspension and it gets a little fun in the hills. my ED6 only has a little more power than factory, and the weight difference is really noticeable in the hills when i chase down v8s.

[beeza]

I think it will be beneficial to remove the old clogged up stock cat and put a Hiflow cat in.
The stock cat is a big restrictor.Just make sure you choose the right diameter piping for your application.

[dsp26]

I think it will be beneficial to remove the old clogged up stock cat and put a Hiflow cat in.
The stock cat is a big restrictor.Just make sure you choose the right diameter piping for your application.

i used to think this was true until i got mine changed and saw the factory cat... its a metal catalyst with decent cell spacing/sizing.

the only way i see it as shit is if the catalyst doesn't heat up properly... it did look a tad thicker than the aftermarket one i got...

[cristian]

i used to think this was true until i got mine changed and saw the factory cat... its a metal catalyst with decent cell spacing/sizing.

the only way i see it as shit is if the catalyst doesn't heat up properly... it did look a tad thicker than the aftermarket one i got...

aye bro, do they make them for my car?

[beeza]

It may really depend on how old and how many Km's it's done.Mine's 11yrs and 86,000km's old.I'm gonna put a Magnaflow Hi-flow cat,X-Force headers and remove the resonator in a couple of weeks.
I'm a bit worried that it might be annoyingly loud without the resonator though but if it is I'll just get it put back in :)

[[ricer]]

It may really depend on how old and how many Km's it's done.Mine's 11yrs and 86,000km's old.I'm gonna put a Magnaflow Hi-flow cat,X-Force headers and remove the resonator in a couple of weeks.
I'm a bit worried that it might be annoyingly loud without the resonator though but if it is I'll just get it put back in :)

without a reso it will sound terrible

[Barge Ass]

6.928 final drive ftw

[beeza]

;1345796']without a reso it will sound terrible

Hmmmmm

[dsp26]

Hmmmmm
;1345796']without a reso it will sound terrible

this is true, i will vouch for this.... i tried 3 different mufflers including a twin loop and nothing got rid of the shitty lawnmower sound until i put a reso. Honda obviously knew this... thats why they put a factory reso on... most probably caused by airflow dynamics of engine CC design..... just trust me that it's a shitter sound than any excel/corolla/exa with a fart cannon.... like a very fast slightly high pitched pussy fart sound :p

if anyone is interested in a high flow 2.5inch metal cat for under $200 delivered let me know.... i have a source that sells a quality one.... so send me a PM

got it fitted to an exhaust shop without the catback at the time... this thing actually glows red hot under a minute of idle... it does its job of catalysing real well as exhaust popping now is quite common... not a bad thing on a metal cat.... it tells me that its igniting the unburnt mixture.. where-as an a quality ceramic cat for the same price, it would have shattered after a month.

[cristian]

if anyone is interested in a high flow 2.5inch metal cat for under $200 delivered let me know.... i have a source that sells a quality one.... so send me a PM


how much for interstate?!?

[dsp26]

how much for interstate?!?

i'll find out the exact cost for ya neighbour.... i showed it to you didn't I?

[cristian]

nah man...last time i stopped by, u were clearing ur makeshift oil filter...then sprayed it wit degreaser...hehehe...

[scyt7e]

i agree with z3lda, dont bother wasting money on exhaust..... it serves a purpose not for sound.... i just dont see any justification in spending a couple hundred for that "cool" sound... i'ld say with that budget unless ur planning big things for your car, stick to something that will make ur ride more enjoyable, cosmetics may be your thing but use it on something u'll enjoy, suspension is worth it :thumbsup: and do it right the first time

[dsp26]

i agree ^^^

and for the price of a single OBX camshaft for your engine and getting it installed (all under $500), it'd probably be the only worthwhile performance upgrade.

[rfah]

Turbo!!!!

[dsp26]

Turbo!!!!

for the price of a turbo on a D16.. a B18cr conversion is still faster/powerful/cheaper

[Lukezen27]

for the price of a turbo on a D16.. a B18cr conversion is still faster/powerful/cheaper

How so?

[aimre]

for the price of a turbo on a D16.. a B18cr conversion is still faster/powerful/cheaper


lol.... no mate

[beeza]

this is true, i will vouch for this.... i tried 3 different mufflers including a twin loop and nothing got rid of the shitty lawnmower sound until i put a reso. Honda obviously knew this... thats why they put a factory reso on... most probably caused by airflow dynamics of engine CC design..... just trust me that it's a shitter sound than any excel/corolla/exa with a fart cannon.... like a very fast slightly high pitched pussy fart sound :p

if anyone is interested in a high flow 2.5inch metal cat for under $200 delivered let me know.... i have a source that sells a quality one.... so send me a PM

got it fitted to an exhaust shop without the catback at the time... this thing actually glows red hot under a minute of idle... it does its job of catalysing real well as exhaust popping now is quite common... not a bad thing on a metal cat.... it tells me that its igniting the unburnt mixture.. where-as an a quality ceramic cat for the same price, it would have shattered after a month.

Thanks for that.The resonator stays :thumbsup: