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ucme
29-09-2007, 07:56 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim: Clean up delsol (Gen 3 CRX) rear window blocked drain.

Required: 10mm socket and extension, Phillips head screw driver, electric screw driver if possible, silicone sealant and dispenser, few rags, something small sharp and sturdy (small flat head screw driver etc)
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01606.jpg


Step 1. Remove almost the entire interior behind the seats. I forgot t take a pic so I sources this one of the net.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/drainblock01.jpg
1. First is the upper centre panel behind the seats. This is the trimmed panel. Not the plastic black one. You can just pull it out. It only has clips, no screws.
2. After you remove the speaker grill panels on the side. They have to Phillips head screws on the inner side. After these screws are removed its just a metter of pulling them of. Be careful; try to pull them towards the inside-front of the car. The inner clip can be fragile.
3. Now you need to remove the big centre part of the interior. This is the one with the two compartments etc. There are 2 screws in each of the compartments and 1 on each of the lower corners of the part, as well as 1 on each side of the hand-brake/middle compartment panel which joins these two panels together. Once these are removed you will find that you can lift the rear of the middle hand-brake panel and they pull the rear interior out. Ideally you should remove the centre panel entirely, however I cut some corners.
4. Now you just need to remove the left over side panels. These have 2 screws on their inner-side and one clip on the same side mounted t the floor.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01602.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01605.jpg
Easiest way to remove the clip is unscrew the bolt till its almost out and pull it out. After removing the screws and the clip pull the panels towards the front of the carand they should come out. Be careful of their clearance with the speakers mounts in case they scratch the plastic.
5. Now remove the speaker mounts by removing the 3 bolts they're attached with.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01601.jpg


Step 2. Ok now its time to remove the rear window panel. It’s a good idea to make sure the window is down at this stage.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01600.jpg


1. First loosen the 2 bolts on the bottom of the panel. Do not remove them. It is essential that you don’t fully remove them as they will assist you when you assemble everything back together.
2. Now you need to remove the 10 bolts (5 on each side) of the panel. You cant see them all in the picture but they are on the edge of the panel in the directions of lines. Gold 10mm bolts with large washers.
3. Once all 10 bolts are out you may begin to pry out the panel. It has factory glue/silicone so don’t expect it to just fall out. I found that it was best to begin from the lower corners and work around. Get something sharp like a small flat head screwdriver and try pulling the panel away from the chassis. If you can, get your fingers in there but I warn you it may be bit painful. Don’t be hasty, un-stick section by section and eventually the whole thing welcome off. Once it does slowly lean it down.

From here the drain plugs will be visible.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01588.jpg

Step 3. Now you need to clean the drain plugs. I had a lot of water in my drain so I had to clean that up first.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01589.jpg
I used a spray can lid and scooped it out bit by bit. Then with some old rags I wiped it down. On my car I noticed the right drain was still clean but my left was blocked to the top.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01591.jpg

Using a screw driver I removed as much of the dirt as possible.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01593.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01594.jpg
Caution: don’t just poke something in there as far as it will go. It’s a rubber pipe that has bends so you don’t want to stab a hole in it. After doing this I cleaned it up and tested it with some water. Unfortunately it didn’t soak through so I got the compressor out and used some pressurized air to fix it up.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01596.jpg
Tip: cover the air gun with a rag as you might get dirty water in your face and your car. After this the drain was clear.

Step 4. Its now time to re-assemble everything. I left the remaining glue/silicone on the window panel as it was still sticky. I rubbed the remaining glue of the chassis.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01597.jpg
You can use other products for this which may achieve a better result but I just used gasket silicone.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01598.jpg
There’s no such thing as over kill so I went a bit spastic and applied a third of the tube onto the window panel, along the existing glue.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/nvaidr/DSC01599.jpg
Smoothened it up and making sure everything was out of the way, I lent the panel on the 2 bolts which weren’t meant to remove in Step 2-1 and I pushed it into place. The glue/silicone should be sufficient to prevent it form falling off. I attached 1 bolt on both sides to keep it in place and I wound my window up to make sure it was even on both sides. It may be a tiny bit crooked but you can fix this by pushing the panel up/down as your tightening the bolts. Once it is even tighten all 10 bolts and then the 2 remaining ones down the bottom. Some silicone may seep through around but if it really bothers you, you can just wipe of the excess. Make sure that the window functions properly before you assemble the interior.

Step 5. Now just re-assemble the interior. Just reverse your steps from Step 1.

Other comments: I had read about this DIY from another source but it wasn’t detailed enough. If you have a delsol and are sick of hearing water splashing every time you take a corner this DIY is a must.

1996ek1
01-10-2007, 09:46 PM
If you have a delsol and are sick of hearing water splashing every time you take a corner this DIY is a must.


PICK ME!!! Except how do you do this shit for an EK1 ? Every time it rains i have to take out the spare tyre, soak all the water in a rag/sponge and squeeze it out. Really annoying....

AsH_
01-10-2007, 10:17 PM
can this apply to other cars???

not that i have this problem...

ucme
01-10-2007, 10:45 PM
hmmm i dont think so guys. the del sol was designed with a drain so it was obviously meant to drain the water out through there and this DIY is to fix the common problem of these drain holes getting blocked.

1996ek1 if you have a water leakage problem check your boot seal. either that and/or remove your boot interior panels and have a snoop around. even get some one to hose down your car while your in the boot to see where the water leaks from. haha

1996ek1
01-10-2007, 10:59 PM
Water leaks from left side of car, either from around the tail light, or tail gate. Iuno, pain in the ass.... ill try fix it soon i guess, was just hoping this would apply to my car lol

xtat1k
02-10-2007, 12:28 AM
my dc2 leaks as well not sure where its coming from. anybody know?

shadou
02-10-2007, 01:15 AM
seals gone? Get a mate and a hose and have some fun :p
nice DIY must be a pain for all you CRX owners

ucme
02-10-2007, 10:32 AM
haha thanks

mate and hose is the best option guys.

the biggest pain was trying to explain to every passenger what the noise was. sounded like i had an aquarium in the back

Davo
08-01-2010, 01:26 PM
you can actually just pop this tube that ive circled on both ends out and use a air gun and blow it out.
easier quicker and dont have the hassle of taking out the rear window.

i did this today and worked a treat didnt take too long either. might not be as effective in the long run as the original fix but this is 1/3 of the time and easier for the not to confident people.

ucme
18-01-2010, 10:06 AM
yeh? easy to put back in? id be scared in case it didnt seal as before and the water leaked out in the interior

Davo
24-01-2010, 01:17 AM
simple as to put back in. theres no way itll leak into the interior if u pop it back in the way u pull it out

ucme
27-01-2010, 10:11 AM
well in that case i guess it should be fine. my mate did the diy on his car last week following the instructions that i posted and said he had about a large cup full of mud in there amongst many leaves and a p plate. amazing what you may find

lil_foy
27-01-2010, 05:45 PM
my dc2 leaks as well not sure where its coming from. anybody know?

Tailight gaskets. Easy way to fix it, open boot and apply tape to the slot between the body and the tailight, all the way across.

JasonGilholme
27-01-2010, 05:58 PM
Tailight gaskets. Easy way to fix it, open boot and apply tape to the slot between the body and the tailight, all the way across.

you may get water inside the tail light itself if you do that.

If you're skilled you can cut a new piece of rubber/foam using the original as a template, or you can get them from honda/wrekcers.

lil_foy
28-01-2010, 06:32 AM
you may get water inside the tail light itself if you do that.

If you're skilled you can cut a new piece of rubber/foam using the original as a template, or you can get them from honda/wrekcers.

I dont really see how really?
I'm sure the sealing on outside edge of the tailight is adiquate.