Set up for turbo

[0098]

internal build for a turbo setup without cutting corners.. for a very reliable 200-230kw atw

CP Pistons - 81mm - Standard Bore - 9.0:1 CR
Skunk2 Racing Valve Springs - Dual Springs
Skunk2 Racing Titanium Retainers
Eagle Connecting Rods
Ferrea Valve Seals
reccommended cams? camshafts? (unsure)

Opinions? Anything not needed? anything else to add while the engine is opened up?
(any idea on approx cost on labour for install? ( on parts mentioned above only)

[Sexc86]

depends what engine platform your useing mate?

[Klayemore]

lol. What engine

[BALIW]

crower stage 2 cams ok

[Benson]

why so low comp?

[barefootbonzai]

obviously to achieve his power goals, it would have to be a d-series turbo setup!

Since you got it opened...
New seals all round
New Head Gasket
New Bearings
New Water pump
New Oil pump
Stronger Head Studs

[SLOWEGG]

Looks like you got EM1 so you have a B16A? Seriously, just concentrate one your bottom end, build a nice strong one along with a nice turbo kit. You can leave the head stock or drop in a nice set of type r cams.

Also leave your compression stock.. high comp turbo ftw.

[DLO01]

internal build for a turbo setup without cutting corners.. for a very reliable 200-230kw atw

CP Pistons - 81mm - Standard Bore - 9.0:1 CR
Skunk2 Racing Valve Springs - Dual Springs
Skunk2 Racing Titanium Retainers
Eagle Connecting Rods
Ferrea Valve Seals
reccommended cams? camshafts? (unsure)

Opinions? Anything not needed? anything else to add while the engine is opened up?
(any idea on approx cost on labour for install? ( on parts mentioned above only)

If your building your motor and it is a B16A, if you know your stuff, your power goals are easy to achive.

pistons, rods, and odd n ends thats all you'll need for you goals.

[0098]

b16a sorry

Realistically i dont really know my stuff... but im looking to purchase the parts myself from the us, so i dont want to be buying unecessary items or skipping on anything..


would it be ok to go with type r cams or better to go with something like crower stage 2 cams turbo?
matched with some toda adjustable cam gears

[SLOWEGG]

For your power goals u can just leave the head stock. If you want cheap power CTR/ITR cams will work very good on the b16a. Crower cams will work BUT there are better cams out there. Just do abit of research.

Like i said, just build a strong bottom end and dont skip anything on your turbo kit aswell. Get a good size turbo an even length manifold.

[IEVAQ8]

make sure if you do all those parts u spend the money and sleeve the block.
also y so low compression????
you should run something like at least 11.1 and around 12-15psi if the tuner knows what he is doing

[DLO01]

No need to sleave the block for his goals.

If he wants that sort of power all he needs is the bare minimum, pistons & rods. Hell, Pro-ecu got over 200kw out of a stock B16A2.

If your gonna go the whole hog, rods, pistons, cams, head work, blah blah, with stock sleaves, you potential is around 300kw, if you know your stuff.

[SLOWEGG]

Whoa ProECU got over 200kw?! pump fuel? Any more info on this Deano? His setup etc..

[DLO01]

This was on a customers car. Yes on pump fuel. Not sure on exact setup. That would be pushing its limit though.

Evan is a freak.

[SLOWEGG]

Thats just crazy 200kw on a stock B16A pump fuel. If only you knew what has been done..

[IEVAQ8]

yeh ur right deanno, but while its out, y not ???
it saves doing it later on once the power bug kicks in and he wants more....
then he only has to pull the head off and to that.........
not the bottom end again.
sleeving is a lot of money, but prob the best part of good money spent on a engine build/......

[DLO01]

Yes true. We are all brought up to be greedy. Once we have somthing we just want more. Unfortunatly we are ingorant of that fact.

Point is, do it right 1st time and be happy. :D

[IEVAQ8]

thats what i like to here, more is better.......hahahaha
doing it right the first time will save heaps of money, time and headaches later on.....

[0098]

man this shit is confusing
i was looking to get a turbo kit but for $7000 landed here it seems a bit too much, surely import tax or whatever cant add $3000 to the price.

[SLOWEGG]

IT shouldnt be that much, im ordering my turbo kit soon and its nowhere near that muc, from the US too. What kit where you looking at buying?

[BALIW]

Hey bro,

since your from Brisbane u know the white EG that pulled 298Kw FW? if u do go and contact him and ask him wat kind of set up his done. we both have very similar set up and have the same mechanic(Hi-Tech modification).


Baliw

[0098]

IT shouldnt be that much, im ordering my turbo kit soon and its nowhere near that muc, from the US too. What kit where you looking at buying?

edelbrock victor-x
http://www.edelbrock.com/sportcompact_new/mc/turbo/turbo_vict.shtml

What are you getting? got a link?
cheers

[SLOWEGG]

That kit is pretty much the same to an AVO kit but you get their intake manifold which isnt really needed. Design to bolt onto stock motors.

It comes down to how much you got to spend. If you have the money and want a straight bolt on kit for your worked motor i would go with fullrace or AFI.

You could also just piece the kit together yourself. Only thing you would need to buy from the states is the manifold everything else you could just buy from here.

[Limbo]

for a 200kw engine with little fuss, try the AVO kits, i know the stage 2 does quite well. Its good especially if don't know what your doing.

[0098]

edited

[0098]

I think im going to go with a full-race kit.

now i have no idea which one out of these.. ac stage1 or ac stage 1GT or ac stage2
basically a choice between

T3/T04E
GT28RS
T3/60-1

[DLO01]

Depends what you want man.

But get a GT turbo.

Stage 2 GT my vote. :thumbsup:

But frk, if your building your motor then dam. Powarr!!!

[spardikis]

I would use the GT2876R turbo, the biggest gt28:P Building two turbo honda's at the moment. one is b18 sleeved, forgies, 9.1 comp with the GT28 and the other is a sleeved stroked b16a with a Gt3540:) in NZ push 350-400kw out of that baby! yeah yeah

[0098]

i think ill turbo first and if i get greedy then build the motor, i might be satisfied with low boost (daily driver), and from ive read it seems very safe to run about 7psi on stock internals. We'll see anyway.


Depends what you want man.

But get a GT turbo.

Stage 2 GT my vote. :thumbsup:

But frk, if your building your motor then dam. Powarr!!!

stage 2 with GT3037

You have that turbo dont you? how is it, when does it start spooling etc?

(and thanks for the pm reply)

[DLO01]

NP,

Depending on what your wants are again.

I have a big rear housing on my 3037S, my boost comes in just after 5000rpm just before my vtec crossover at 5250rpms.

I can drive around all day off boost, very safe, no load on the motor, no excess heat from boosting all the time. But when you give it some, watch out and it is awsome up high where you big gains are.

[0098]

thats a good point, real early boost may not be so good for a daily driver.
ill just have to read read read and come up with something.
Thanks

[DLO01]

A lot of things we do and choices of components are compromises. Pros & Cons.

You might get something good out of something, but it will lack somthing else you might want. Just weigh it up and find what best for you. :thumbsup:

[SLOWEGG]

i think ill turbo first and if i get greedy then build the motor, i might be satisfied with low boost (daily driver), and from ive read it seems very safe to run about 7psi on stock internals. We'll see anyway.



stage 2 with GT3037

You have that turbo dont you? how is it, when does it start spooling etc?

(and thanks for the pm reply)

Go with the GT3037, give you abit of headroom for later on aswell when you rebuild the turbo. You can run about 9psi stock internals daily.

I will be running a GT35 on my B16A very soon.

[0098]

anyone dealt directly with full-race before?

4 days and still no response to my question from them...

[IEVAQ8]

james aka blkcrx

he only uses full race

[DLO01]

anyone dealt directly with full-race before?

4 days and still no response to my question from them...

Their customer service is slack, sounds like it has not changed. If a business has 'not' the curtesy to reply at point of contact to the cutomer. I take my business elsewhere, and I did.

[0098]

exactly, also makes me question how clever it would be to pay thousands of dollars to people like this, especially when i am in a different country and i cant exactly see them face to face if their are issues. :thumbdwn:

Ok found new company Neukin, they have an option for mix and matching parts
http://www.turbogoods.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=31

Tial 50mm bov
3" ss 4 bolt down pipe
525cc precision injectors
600hp bar/plate intercooler
Neukin ac manifold
GT2871R t3 housing .63a/r
44mm Tial waste gate

opinions?

[0098]

ive decided on my setup

PB ramhorn manifold
Garrett GT3071R
Tial 38mm wastegate
Tial bov
PWR cooler
3inch down pipe
3inch exhaust
Injen muffler
RC 550cc injectors
AEM Fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255lph
Greddy Oil Catch Can
Koyo radiator
Hondata s200 or 300
Coilovers
Bigger brakes
New clutch
hopefully get a few things hpc coated
and whatever else joins the party along the way

Hopefully all done by feb/march 08
(internals will have to wait after some thought id rather spend the money to go overseas)

thanks to dean 'DLO01' and anyone else who helped me with questions!

[DLO01]

I would recomend getting a bigger wastgate.

Get a 44mm WG.

The problem is Big Turbo/Low Boost

With a Large turbo and low boost application, Its best to go for a larger WG like a 44mm than a smaller one. Reason is that when you hit full boost like 8psi, your WG opens to try and slow down your high flowing turbo and you need to vent the exhaust gas from the engine. If the WG is not big enough you will get boost creep, because the WG can't keep up with exhaust flow and therfore drives your turbo more.

Typically, larger WG for low boost applications and smaller WG for high boost applications.