kingyy
10-10-2007, 08:29 PM
if there is signs of wear, replace them.
What you need to replace a stud (the wheel stud, not the man-stud):
- Tools to remove tire (derrrr)
- Tools to remove brake caliper
- screwdriver to remove the screw that holds the brake disc in.
- Hammer to belt the broken/worn studs back
- New Stud/studs
- about 1.5 - 2cm worth of washers that fit over the new studs
- wheel brace.
What to do:
- Block 2 of the tires that will remain firmly grounded (so you can leave the brakes left off, no handbrake, no foot brake)
- jack up car and remove the wheel as if you where putting a spare on (Dont forget to use jack stands, safety is VERY important!)
- Use sockets (18mm socket on a Nissan 180sx, not confirmed on a Soarer) to remove the 2 large bolts that hold the Caliper on.
- Lift Caliper up and hold out of the way with some handy wire.
- undo the small screw that holds the rotor/disc onto the hub.
- slide the rotor/disc towards yourself (away from car) to remove and reveal the rub and the studs.
- inspect the studs for damage and wear.
- Use hammer to gently but firmly belt the studs back towards the centre of the car.
- after the studs are removed, check the holes to make sure there is not damage to the hub (shouldn't be if you haven't belted it with a hammer).
- get the new stud and slide it in from the back twisting it clockwise/anticlockwise as you slide it forward (so that the grooves end up lining up as it seats).
- Once stud can no longer be pushed into the hole (from behind), get a wheel nut and your wheel brace, and start winding.
- Once the nut can no longer go on any further, take it back off and place about 1 cm thick of washers onto the stud, and start the process all over again.
- Repeat this process until you are completely sure that you can not pull the stud through any further.
- Dont be scared to pull put a lot of pressure on, unless you use some sort of leverage, or your a super-strong person, you wont be able to produce enough poer through a standard wheel brace to damage the new stud.
-Repeat process for any other new studs.
- Reverse the removal of items as you replace everything and re-build the brakes, and replace the wheel.
If you have done everything right, you will have a new stud/studs, wont have to bleed the brakes (didn't undo the caliper to cause air in the lines).
My personal advice is that once you have done 1,000kms on that side, you re-check the tension on the studs, to make sure the stud hasn't pulled through any further.
What you need to replace a stud (the wheel stud, not the man-stud):
- Tools to remove tire (derrrr)
- Tools to remove brake caliper
- screwdriver to remove the screw that holds the brake disc in.
- Hammer to belt the broken/worn studs back
- New Stud/studs
- about 1.5 - 2cm worth of washers that fit over the new studs
- wheel brace.
What to do:
- Block 2 of the tires that will remain firmly grounded (so you can leave the brakes left off, no handbrake, no foot brake)
- jack up car and remove the wheel as if you where putting a spare on (Dont forget to use jack stands, safety is VERY important!)
- Use sockets (18mm socket on a Nissan 180sx, not confirmed on a Soarer) to remove the 2 large bolts that hold the Caliper on.
- Lift Caliper up and hold out of the way with some handy wire.
- undo the small screw that holds the rotor/disc onto the hub.
- slide the rotor/disc towards yourself (away from car) to remove and reveal the rub and the studs.
- inspect the studs for damage and wear.
- Use hammer to gently but firmly belt the studs back towards the centre of the car.
- after the studs are removed, check the holes to make sure there is not damage to the hub (shouldn't be if you haven't belted it with a hammer).
- get the new stud and slide it in from the back twisting it clockwise/anticlockwise as you slide it forward (so that the grooves end up lining up as it seats).
- Once stud can no longer be pushed into the hole (from behind), get a wheel nut and your wheel brace, and start winding.
- Once the nut can no longer go on any further, take it back off and place about 1 cm thick of washers onto the stud, and start the process all over again.
- Repeat this process until you are completely sure that you can not pull the stud through any further.
- Dont be scared to pull put a lot of pressure on, unless you use some sort of leverage, or your a super-strong person, you wont be able to produce enough poer through a standard wheel brace to damage the new stud.
-Repeat process for any other new studs.
- Reverse the removal of items as you replace everything and re-build the brakes, and replace the wheel.
If you have done everything right, you will have a new stud/studs, wont have to bleed the brakes (didn't undo the caliper to cause air in the lines).
My personal advice is that once you have done 1,000kms on that side, you re-check the tension on the studs, to make sure the stud hasn't pulled through any further.