DNT-CRY
11-10-2007, 11:19 AM
B Series Swap Information
NOTES:
if you plan to keep you civic A/C system, you will need a del sol VTEC A/C mount to mount the civic compressor on the B-series motor
the integra LS/RS/GS was available in automatic, also, the JDM b18c GSR motor was available in automatic. you are not required to do an auto to manual conversion to install a B-series motor in an automatic civic.
motor mounts for B-series swaps
92-95 civic:
get them from a 94+ integra. you will want all the mounts/brackets. why? you need to put your civic rubber mount parts on the integra metal brackets. use the rear integra tranny bracket and the OEM civic rubber mount. for the upper driver side, use the integra mounts
Wires on 4 wire O2:
only if cx or dx...
WHITE: Signal Wire
GREEN: Signal Ground
2 BLACK: Both black wires are the heater circuit wires.
Using a P28 ECU (and should work for most obd1 ecu's with 4-wire controls)
Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14
Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground)
Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6
Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source.
(you may mix up the black wires... if car dies after it is warm/10-30 seconds, that's the first thing to swap over and troubleshoot.. theres no way to tell one from the other by looking at them)
Proper Engine Removal Instructions
The following shows a good way to remove your motor. There are plenty of other ways to do it, but this is what we have found to be the easiest way. Remeber, practice safety precautions at all times. Good luck.
WARNING
*Make sure jacks and safety stands are placed properly and host brackets are attached to the correct position on the engine.
*Make sure the vehicle will not roll off stands and fall while you are working under it.
CAUTION
*Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surface.
*Unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion to avoid damage.
*Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses or interfere with other parts.
TOOLS NEEDED
* 8mm(1/4 drive
* 10mm(1/4 or 3/8 drive)
* 12mm(3/8 drive)
* 14mm(3/8 or 1/2 drive)
* 17mm(1/2 drive)
* 19mm(1/2 drive)
* 32mm(1/2 drive impact) sockets.
* Breaker bar
* 1/4 ratchet
* 3/8 ratchet
* 1/2 ratchet
* various extensions
* phillips screwdriver
* slotted screw driver
* 8mm punch
* ball joint separator
* hammer
* needle nose pliers
* jack stands
* jack
* engine hoist
* chain
TIPS:
Listed below are the basic steps to removing an engine. Obviously each person will take their own steps in removing an engine depending on previous experience and personal judgment. Some important tips that will help for first timers are as follows. When removing the roll pin from the shift linkage it is important to use an 8mm drift or an 8mm bolt. Air hammers also work really well if air tools are available. Another difficult aspect of the swap can include breaking the axle nuts. Make sure the socket being used is an impact socket (regular sockets can be used, however don’t be surprised if one is broken) and use plenty of leverage. Obviously the car’s wheels must be on the ground with the emergency brake set so the car is stationary. Other tips will be added accordingly as I’m sure I haven’t covered everything. Good luck!
Beginning the Swap:
1. Secure the hood as open as possible.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM.
7. Disconnect the main wire harness connector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment.
10. Relieve fuel pressure.
11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose.
12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose.
13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage.
*NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.
14. Disconnect the connectors from the PCM.
15. Remove the grommet and wire harness clamps, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors.
16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steering pump belt and pump.
17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning compressor belt.
18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp.
19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T).
20. Remove the shift cable (CVT).
21. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp.
22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution)
23. Raise the hoist to full height.
24. Remove the front tires/wheels and splash shield.
25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator.
26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer.
27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer.
28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage.
29. Remove the AC Compressor.
30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe.
31. Remove the damper forks.
32. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints.
33. Remove the driveshafts.
34. Lower the hoist.
35. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses.
36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine.
37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket.
38. Remove the rear mount bracket.
39. Remove the upper bracket.
40. Remove the transmission mount bracket, then remove the transmission mount.
41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring.
42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car.
That should have your motor out from the bay. Again, take your time with it and make sure everything is unplugged and drained before you remove it. It will make everything cleaner and smoother. Good Luck!
There are a few side notes:
Both of the following VTEC wires are already wired up on the 92 hatchbacks from the ECU to the shock tower connector.
VTEC Solenoid: The wire at the ECU (pin A4) starts out as an orange/white wire. It then turns into a green/yellow wire. It finnally turns into a green/white wire, which is what color the wire on the connector should be.
VTEC Oil Pressure Sensor: The wire at the ECU (pin D6) starts out as an orange/blue wire. It then turns into a blue/black wire, which is what color the wire on the connector should be. The connector also has a black wire comming from it. This needs to be grounded. From the factory, it follows the harness to the maingrounding block on the thermostat, but can be grounded anywhere you see fit.
Knock Sensor: This will need to be wired up regradless from the ECU. The wire is red/blue at the connector.
Secondary Intake Solenoid: This will also have to be wired from the ECU regardless. The wire color is pink/blue at the connector.
Hope this helps people out If they are going to do so. :D
NOTES:
if you plan to keep you civic A/C system, you will need a del sol VTEC A/C mount to mount the civic compressor on the B-series motor
the integra LS/RS/GS was available in automatic, also, the JDM b18c GSR motor was available in automatic. you are not required to do an auto to manual conversion to install a B-series motor in an automatic civic.
motor mounts for B-series swaps
92-95 civic:
get them from a 94+ integra. you will want all the mounts/brackets. why? you need to put your civic rubber mount parts on the integra metal brackets. use the rear integra tranny bracket and the OEM civic rubber mount. for the upper driver side, use the integra mounts
Wires on 4 wire O2:
only if cx or dx...
WHITE: Signal Wire
GREEN: Signal Ground
2 BLACK: Both black wires are the heater circuit wires.
Using a P28 ECU (and should work for most obd1 ecu's with 4-wire controls)
Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14
Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground)
Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6
Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source.
(you may mix up the black wires... if car dies after it is warm/10-30 seconds, that's the first thing to swap over and troubleshoot.. theres no way to tell one from the other by looking at them)
Proper Engine Removal Instructions
The following shows a good way to remove your motor. There are plenty of other ways to do it, but this is what we have found to be the easiest way. Remeber, practice safety precautions at all times. Good luck.
WARNING
*Make sure jacks and safety stands are placed properly and host brackets are attached to the correct position on the engine.
*Make sure the vehicle will not roll off stands and fall while you are working under it.
CAUTION
*Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surface.
*Unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion to avoid damage.
*Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses or interfere with other parts.
TOOLS NEEDED
* 8mm(1/4 drive
* 10mm(1/4 or 3/8 drive)
* 12mm(3/8 drive)
* 14mm(3/8 or 1/2 drive)
* 17mm(1/2 drive)
* 19mm(1/2 drive)
* 32mm(1/2 drive impact) sockets.
* Breaker bar
* 1/4 ratchet
* 3/8 ratchet
* 1/2 ratchet
* various extensions
* phillips screwdriver
* slotted screw driver
* 8mm punch
* ball joint separator
* hammer
* needle nose pliers
* jack stands
* jack
* engine hoist
* chain
TIPS:
Listed below are the basic steps to removing an engine. Obviously each person will take their own steps in removing an engine depending on previous experience and personal judgment. Some important tips that will help for first timers are as follows. When removing the roll pin from the shift linkage it is important to use an 8mm drift or an 8mm bolt. Air hammers also work really well if air tools are available. Another difficult aspect of the swap can include breaking the axle nuts. Make sure the socket being used is an impact socket (regular sockets can be used, however don’t be surprised if one is broken) and use plenty of leverage. Obviously the car’s wheels must be on the ground with the emergency brake set so the car is stationary. Other tips will be added accordingly as I’m sure I haven’t covered everything. Good luck!
Beginning the Swap:
1. Secure the hood as open as possible.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM.
7. Disconnect the main wire harness connector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment.
10. Relieve fuel pressure.
11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose.
12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose.
13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage.
*NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.
14. Disconnect the connectors from the PCM.
15. Remove the grommet and wire harness clamps, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors.
16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steering pump belt and pump.
17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning compressor belt.
18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp.
19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T).
20. Remove the shift cable (CVT).
21. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp.
22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution)
23. Raise the hoist to full height.
24. Remove the front tires/wheels and splash shield.
25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator.
26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer.
27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer.
28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage.
29. Remove the AC Compressor.
30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe.
31. Remove the damper forks.
32. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints.
33. Remove the driveshafts.
34. Lower the hoist.
35. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses.
36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine.
37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket.
38. Remove the rear mount bracket.
39. Remove the upper bracket.
40. Remove the transmission mount bracket, then remove the transmission mount.
41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring.
42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car.
That should have your motor out from the bay. Again, take your time with it and make sure everything is unplugged and drained before you remove it. It will make everything cleaner and smoother. Good Luck!
There are a few side notes:
Both of the following VTEC wires are already wired up on the 92 hatchbacks from the ECU to the shock tower connector.
VTEC Solenoid: The wire at the ECU (pin A4) starts out as an orange/white wire. It then turns into a green/yellow wire. It finnally turns into a green/white wire, which is what color the wire on the connector should be.
VTEC Oil Pressure Sensor: The wire at the ECU (pin D6) starts out as an orange/blue wire. It then turns into a blue/black wire, which is what color the wire on the connector should be. The connector also has a black wire comming from it. This needs to be grounded. From the factory, it follows the harness to the maingrounding block on the thermostat, but can be grounded anywhere you see fit.
Knock Sensor: This will need to be wired up regradless from the ECU. The wire is red/blue at the connector.
Secondary Intake Solenoid: This will also have to be wired from the ECU regardless. The wire color is pink/blue at the connector.
Hope this helps people out If they are going to do so. :D