The proper way of "Breaking IN" an engine

[Benson]

I came across an interesting but informative article today on the honda-tech website.

Check it out: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[bennjamin]

its a load of bs. Any page in that kind of layout " miracle run in !" with a random guy never heard of before cant be reputable.
The layout and wording sounds exactly like an EBAY ad for those electronic superchargers or fuel power chips.

[Chr1s]

Just had a read of this,

I ran my motor in the same way and upon inspection later on, it was perfect.

Aside the pictures and advertising, it's just his layout. It makes perfect sense to me on what his talking about, aside a few things.

[B18cEG]

I would just like to add, why do most of you just say this is garbage or not true and thinks like that, i think a better way to find the truth is to have someone that has the knowledge in engine building to tell us the pro's and con's in breaking in an engine this way.

[aaronng]

Repost.

[fatboyz39]

We have broke in 2 new motor in like this. Bore's were in perfect condition when we stripped it down. No smoke, car made more power.

[aaronng]

The method works. The main reason for poor engine break in is that the engines are given too much throttle when still cold. Even with a new engine, if you drive around gently until it gets to proper operating temperature (coolant 80 C, oil temp similar), you can fang it all you want without problems. Only the gearbox, clutch and brakes need gentle running in.

[Benson]

its a load of bs. Any page in that kind of layout " miracle run in !" with a random guy never heard of before cant be reputable.
The layout and wording sounds exactly like an EBAY ad for those electronic superchargers or fuel power chips.

Its an informative for those who are thinking of rebuilding their own engines and need to learn to run in their engines.

As Chris had said, its pretty understandable of the logic behind what the guy posted. He didnt say to keep it at rev limiter (which can cause engine damage) but to squeeze on the throttle through the rpm to put load on the rings.

[EGB18CT]

heres some other similar ways by well know honda builders, most go over a longer period of time tho, the engine MUST be at proper operating temps and notice the gradual zings/guns to a rpm not bouncing off the rev limit flat stick!

basically honda/subaru/porsche/nissan etc will not bell u "drive it like u stole it" as that could cause liability issues.. just imagine the speeds involed in a porsche 911 gt3 at the top of 3rd gear etc...

METHOD 1: Endyn Way

0-200 miles ( 0-325 km ) : Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.

201-400 miles ( 326-650 km ): Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.

401-600 miles ( 651-970 km ) : Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.

600-800 miles ( 971-1290 km ): 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.

800-1K miles ( 1291-1615 km ) : 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ rpm with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.

Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religeously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.

I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30.

After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it.


METHOD 2: 2000 NIRA Comp4 Class Champion, Stephen Sakai's Way

1: Let the motor idle for about 30 minutes then change the oil.

Then take it out and road test for short distances until you reach about 100 miles. Then change the oil again.

Once you reach about 100 miles it should be broken in by then. Change the oil at 250, 500 and 1000 and then normal from then on. If you are scared you can wait until 500 miles before you start beating on it.

2: With respect to breaking in new cams : As long as you lubricated the cams properly on installation, there is no real break-in procedure.

METHOD 3: Ken Wood's (from Temple of VTEC's FAQ Section) Way

1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.

2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.

3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be
retorqued.

4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.

5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.

6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings
to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.

7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.

8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just
the regular oil.

(I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)

9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.

10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if
you want to.

11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so "go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!".

EDIT... in reference for hondatech and other sources like k20a.com/theoldone etc...

[EGB18CT]

... in reference for hondatech and other sources like k20a.com/theoldone etc...

[1996ek1]

In the link whats meant by 'warm up'
Idle it in the garage or something till its warm, or take it for an easy drive till its warm, then start THRASHING ?

[EGB18CT]

if youve just swapped a motor, u'd want to let the car warm up at idle to check that all the fluid is flowing properly, all wires are correct/lines/coolant oil levels etc once the car is warm then u can go, no point taking out a fresh built motor straight out for a drive to notice somethings leaking and damages when you get back from your drive hahah.

[Chr1s]

When it comes to breaking in a camshaft, I've been told numerous times from wade cams, and etc

"hold it at 2000rpm for 20minutes to allow for camshaft break in"

This is why for many reasons people run their motor in with the stock cam and switch later to bed the cam in.

Also another thing, I personally don't like the idea of allowing the motor to sit there to warm up to temp as once it's started you dont want to have it idling there, the bores can slowly glaze up (this is why people say never rev the motor with no load - ie neutral) and once that happens GLHF trying to bed the rings in.

Everybody has a different way of doing it, each to their own :).

[1996ek1]

The bores can glaze up? whats that mean ?

[Chr1s]

when you pull apart a motor with a fair bit of km on it, sometimes they have glazed bores, it basically looks like what the term says, glazed... have you seen a glazed donut ? it has a glassy/shiny appearance over the under layer.

So the bore looks glazed over the cross-hatching (stuffs the seal for the rings)

[1996ek1]

when you pull apart a motor with a fair bit of km on it, sometimes they have glazed bores, it basically looks like what the term says, glazed... have you seen a glazed donut ? it has a glassy/shiny appearance over the under layer.

So the bore looks glazed over the cross-hatching (stuffs the seal for the rings)

Oh cos its glazed the rings dont make a proper seal ? because its just like smoothed over... kinda thing ?

[aaronng]

Yeah, it's glazed and becomes too smooth to wear down further, and the crosshatched pattern has little gaps which don't seal well with the rings. You'll have to open up the block, rehone the walls and then run the engine in again.

[EK4R]

hm interesting. so this apply to new cars also i guess?

[aaronng]

Just let the engine warm up sufficiently by by driving gently. Once warmed up, don't baby it.

[Samo]

METHOD 3: Ken Wood's (from Temple of VTEC's FAQ Section) Way

1. Use regular oil, not synthetic, during break-in.

2. When you first start it up, let it COMPLETELY warm up, not just kinda warm, all the way warm.

3. While it's still hot, check and see if the head needs to be
retorqued.

4. Check the timing again, as well as the valve adjustment.

5. Very slowly and using the lowest rpms as possbile get to about
65mph. Put the car in 4th gear. The coast, in neutral, to about 30.

6. Go from 30 to 65, in 4th gear about 20 times. This allows the rings
to seat, so do it right, and do it 20 times.

7. Drive EASY for about 150 miles. Change the oil. Still just the
regular oil.

8. Drive easy for another 150 miles. Change the oil again. Still just
the regular oil.

(I realize that steps 7 and 8 say the same thing. Do it twice)

9. Drive it kinda easy (no trips to redline) for another 1500 miles.

10. Change the oil again. Now you can use the expensive synthetics if
you want to.

11. After that, the motor is pretty much broken in, so "go run the dang
thing to see how fast it is!!!!".

EDIT... in reference for hondatech and other sources like k20a.com/theoldone etc...



this will only work on D-series, may k-series
as B/H-series u need to remove cam shafts to access head studs