Project DC2

[INTEG]

Hi guys, as you know im going force induction way, im ripping out my engine on 19th next week, let me know what you think and any advise? the setup is.

Parts Already got..

T3/T4 turbo iron cast manifold
Oil cooler kit
egale h rods
Bc spec 3 cams
Bc P1 retainers
Bc Cam gears
Bc valve springs
Walbro 255 fuel pump
skunk2 intake manifold
Hasport engine mounts
Aem fuel Rail
Sard Fuel Reg
Cp pistons, Any idea what C/R would be good for my setup?
Rebuild head, Let me know is worth the money to port and polish for force induction?
Rebuild bottom end, Let me know any ideas what i should do with the bottom while im getting it done?
Kaaza LSD Diff 1.5way

When i get it started i will be posting pics up as i go along keep use updated!!!:wave:

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0033.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/IMGP18552.jpg

[SLOWEGG]

Since you're building your motor why dont u invest in a better manifold?

[Sexc86]

dont go a super low compression on your piston. 10:1 Cp forgies would be good!

^ tru me thinks a dc2r intake mani / skunk 2 or edlebrock

[fatboyz39]

Since you're building your motor why dont u invest in a better manifold?

There nothing wrong with them. ;)

[yourfather]

i think he means the exhaust manifold not the intake.

[TheFranchise]

upgrade valve springs also??

[INTEG]

sorry guys i got skunk2 intake manifold i forgot to write it down and for valve spring it came with the BC kit:wave:

[INTEG]

[QUOTE=Sexc86;1384928]dont go a super low compression on your piston. 10:1 Cp forgies would be good!

VTIR B18c is already 10:1 ratio welz that what it says in the SnapOn book is rite some corrt mi?

[eg_08_wa]

could u pls pm me wif details of who is doing ur work? looking for good workshop.
cheers

[INTEG]

could u pls pm me wif details of who is doing ur work? looking for good workshop.
cheers

Welz most of the work im doing at my work cause i work for hyundai company, but the block and head work im sending out, im tossing between mod performance in ozpark or Balcatta engine recon for the block work. couple of the guys at my work had stuff done terh and they say they do a really good job. And for the head work Head Torque in ozpark or Balcatta engine recon. i will worry about it on monday cause my engine will be out by then. i will be taking some fotos to post up this friday:cool:

[040501912]

another beast rising from perth ... :p subscribed

[INTEG]

Here a of pics of my engine bay now before i take it out

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/IMGP1856.jpg

[BALIW]

[QUOTE=Sexc86;1384928]dont go a super low compression on your piston. 10:1 Cp forgies would be good!

VTIR B18c is already 10:1 ratio welz that what it says in the SnapOn book is rite some corrt mi?


Bro,

Run 9:1 rotio since ur planning to do some head work. This means u will still gain alot of power from ur head.

With the selections of ur valve springs, cam gear and camshaft, me personally would of just went and purchase the crower kit. Just make sure that the boost ur running ur springs will hold? Jap parts are great for NA but when u start playing with boost i suggest u buy Yank parts, as they have been boosting hondas for years with der own products.
U changing ur valves aswell?

U will always gain power when u port and polish ur head and intake monifold. Just make sure the guy doing it knows wats his doing, specially when his polishing it. If not polished right then the airflow will be unbalance:)

Good luck

[INTEG]

[QUOTE=INTEG;1387941]


Bro,

Run 9:1 rotio since ur planning to do some head work. This means u will still gain alot of power from ur head.

With the selections of ur valve springs, cam gear and camshaft, me personally would of just went and purchase the crower kit. Just make sure that the boost ur running ur springs will hold? Jap parts are great for NA but when u start playing with boost i suggest u buy Yank parts, as they have been boosting hondas for years with der own products.
U changing ur valves aswell?

U will always gain power when u port and polish ur head and intake monifold. Just make sure the guy doing it knows wats his doing, specially when his polishing it. If not polished right then the airflow will be unbalance:)

Good luck

Yerh i was thinking about it today cause i got my engine apart and ready to get sent out i havnt ordered the pistons yet cause im still thinking of what com ratio to go, yerh i mite do what you say go 9.0:1. About the cams i was going to go skunk2 turbo cams but i had to wait for ahwile to get them from the US and Yonas gave me a good deal on the BC kit. I think in the end it all depends on the tuner.

[INTEG]

here some pics i got the motor out after 1yr of planing time has come lol

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/IMGP1861.jpg

motor out it time to strip it apart!!!

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/IMGP1860-1.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/IMGP1869.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/IMGP1870.jpg

Camshafts Pulled Out!!! up for sale OEM B18c Vtec Camshaft with pully and valve spring if anyintrested PM me!!

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0040.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0039.jpg

Ripped pistons out from block up for sale aswels!!! block and head was sent out on wednesday to get machined, new CP 9:1 C/R installed and new bearings and head recon new stem seals BC dual valve springs and BC spec 3 cam shaft installed with a mild port and polish done !!! hopefully get in back in a week or 2 and start putting back together bit by bit.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0038.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0037.jpg

[INTEG]

I was thinking while im installing kaaza 1.5way lsd diff i mite aswelz change all the syncros and needle bearings and input shaft bearing, so i called up honda and got i quote on these parts and all cooling hoses beside top and bottom radiator hose and holy shit it came up $26xx.00 i was like WTF!!!. some of the guys said you can get the syncros matched up at some place around $10-15 each is it betta go OEM then aftermarket. ill post up the quote of all the parts. Any of use mite know what is necessary or what is not when rebulding a gearbox. There nothing wrong with my gearbox just done 180,000k just to be safe side, while i got it out i mite aswelz do it!!!

Let me what your opinon?

[Sexc86]

man dont do 9:1 you are just robbing yourself of power.... just means you gonna have to run more boost or more agressive timeing to make it up.

just get 10:1 Cp/weisco forgies, much more responsive with useable power off boost. Best talk to a pro about it then us E-mechanics. www.hondatech.com.au / www.jtune.com.au / qcb771@hotmail.com

Name is James, probably one of the best honda engine builders in australia, and loves high comp dohc vtec turbo engines.

[1996ek1]

How much PSI you plan on running?
And im not pro in this area or anything, but i agree, and would go for 10:1

[IEVAQ8]

go higher comp.........with less boost will make more power and more resonsive than lower comp and more boost.
speak with james aka blkcrx he has his crx b16 with 12.5 comp and 26psi never missed a beat in 2 years.....................anbd he drove it every day, he is also the tuner................
i am leaving my b18c7 type r motor stock at 11.1 comp with about 8-9psi.........should make some decent power...........
and next year when i decide to rebuild bottom end, i will got to 12.5 comp and hopefully around 12-14psi...............

[INTEG]

So use guys recon i should stay high comp 10:1, everyone at work is saying go low comp just to be safe! Now use have convince me to go 10:1 i call up the engine recon place 2moro and see if his ordered anything if not i stay with 10:1 or go higher??? let me know will the block handle it eg the bores?

[IEVAQ8]

first thing is first, who is going to be the tuner?????
speak to the tuner and ask him what he thinks....personally like i have said above, the higher comp the less boost required to make the power......
as long as the tune is correct, you wont have anything to worry bout........

[INTEG]

welz i was going to get james and try to get enough ppl over in perth to get terh car tune but it dosnt look like it plus his a busy man. so the new place in perth that specialised in hondata is "South West Customs" but i done know how there tuners are!? Hopefully james reading this post and let me know how good terh tuners are cause he came down here last month i think

so basically when my motor comes back start putting it back together and tow it to my friends exhaust shop to get the exhaust done and intercooler piping done and should be all set to get tuned. then tow down to South West Customs it abit far from were i live but that only place i know of that does Hondata ECU.

[kraiye]

... everyone at work is saying go low comp just to be safe! ...
no offence but how many of these guys at work have built a boosted HONDA engine?
and with all the work you're getting done, what do you need to be safe for?!

will this be your daily? i consider myself a relative n00b but i believe :honda:'s love rpm and compression and with no compression, daily/off-boost driving = :thumbdwn:

btw, you doing rods too? or just pistons?

[IEVAQ8]

i undertsnad where your coming from, i am fortunate that james is in melb and i only have to tow it to him.lol

y dont you offer to pay hgis ticket maybe just 1 way then it may be worth your and his while to come and tune it.

btw he isnt on this site.hge got banned i think ages ago....

go to www.hondatech.com.au and ask him there.
his name on there is BLKCRX. so pm him

[INTEG]

no offence but how many of these guys at work have built a boosted HONDA engine?
and with all the work you're getting done, what do you need to be safe for?!

will this be your daily? i consider myself a relative n00b but i believe :honda:'s love rpm and compression and with no compression, daily/off-boost driving = :thumbdwn:

btw, you doing rods too? or just pistons?

Yes it will kinda a everyday car and no none of the other guys have built a turbo honda!!! it just they been in the trade for so long and the theory with with turbo is low comp and N/A engine aint made for turbos.

Yes iam doing rods and pistons

Any ways i called my the recon place and he hasnt ordered the pistons yet so im kinda lucky now i need to know what comp use pros think i should go? stay the same C/R 10:1 or Higher, so i can get him to order asap

[Sexc86]

mate here is an answer your piston compression question...

strait from the mount of james... shame he refuses to use this site :(

http://www.hondatech.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=1523

[string]

I seriously hope you chose a good workshop to do your rebuild. Honda bearing clearances are a serious longevity issue. Ask the workshop what clearances they are running on the mains, even if it means nothing to you. ACL's = no no (unless you get lucky). Just ordering whats on the crank might even get you into trouble.

[SLOWEGG]

Whats wrong with ACL bearings? :confused:

[IEVAQ8]

i hope you read james thread from hondatech and understand...........
i love his work thats why he is tuning my dc2r turbo..............

[INTEG]

thx guys been great help, read james post cleared it up my question:D

string yerh wat wrong with acl bearings?

[Sexc86]

im running acl bearing in my new block..... no personal feedback as of yet since its not running....

however i have been told to change back to oem honda bearing as they have a longer life span *apparently.

[string]

Nothing is wrong with the bearings. They just don't come in the same range of sizes as standard bearings. People who buy standard bearings seem more likely to be measuring clearances so they know which ones to buy.

[grumpy rooster]

I'll agree with everyone who says to don't lower the compression. Keep it at the factory 10:1 ratio. You don't need to lower. You are just giving power away as has all been mentioned.

What sort of fuel system are you running? If your going to be running decent boost and decent compression you need to have a fuel system that is up to the task. Without fuel, an engine don't last very long.

One last point. What sort of headgasket are you using? I'd suggest you use a standard (or standard type) gasket. That way it acts like a fuse if there is a problem with detonation. If it pings its head off for some reason it will blow the headgasket before it blows anything else.

[string]

What sort of fuel system are you running? If your going to be running decent boost and decent compression you need to have a fuel system that is up to the task. Without fuel, an engine don't last very long.

All he'll need is new injectors, and a fuel pump if you don't trust your stock one.



One last point. What sort of headgasket are you using? I'd suggest you use a standard (or standard type) gasket. That way it acts like a fuse if there is a problem with detonation. If it pings its head off for some reason it will blow the headgasket before it blows anything else.
Stock multi-layer steel gaskets are incredibly strong. In a stock sleeve honda motor, the fuse is normally the sleeves, not the head gasket unfortunately.

[IEVAQ8]

true, if you have the spare money get the block sleeved, it will be the most money but the smartest money spent............
and for fuel system, iunjectors and a pump will be sweat.

[SLOWEGG]

If you want ultimate power, race fuel lol..

Nice build btw, what manifold you planning to use?

[0098]

if you run high compression use arp studs

[grumpy rooster]

Do people not use studs? They are so cheap these days you'd be crazy not to.

[Sexc86]

agreed^

[INTEG]

I'll agree with everyone who says to don't lower the compression. Keep it at the factory 10:1 ratio. You don't need to lower. You are just giving power away as has all been mentioned.

What sort of fuel system are you running? If your going to be running decent boost and decent compression you need to have a fuel system that is up to the task. Without fuel, an engine don't last very long.

One last point. What sort of headgasket are you using? I'd suggest you use a standard (or standard type) gasket. That way it acts like a fuse if there is a problem with detonation. If it pings its head off for some reason it will blow the headgasket before it blows anything else.

fuel system im using is RC 550cc injectors, Sard Fuel Reg, AEM Fuel Rail and Walbro 255hp Fuel pump i think that more then enough...

About the head gasket im still thinking about what to use OEM or aftermarket.

[INTEG]

true, if you have the spare money get the block sleeved, it will be the most money but the smartest money spent............
and for fuel system, iunjectors and a pump will be sweat.

yerh i dont have alot left to spend on sleeves i wish i did it would be nice im just building for medium build anyways im not going for full race, still want to use as everyday car welz not everyday

[INTEG]

If you want ultimate power, race fuel lol..

Nice build btw, what manifold you planning to use?

If you talking about turbo manifold im just using a iron cast manifold, but intake side is skunk2 pro sieres

[INTEG]

if you run high compression use arp studs

im not going to run really high boost but i have ordered ARP headbolts anyways. What the torque setting for the head bolts anyways?

[SLOWEGG]

Go with oem head gasket and you dont need the AEM fuel rail. Since its a street car you dont need sleeves, stock sleeves can handle about 300kw. If you're after more power for the strip then just use good fuel.

Not investing in a even length manifold?

[INTEG]

Go with oem head gasket and you dont need the AEM fuel rail. Since its a street car you dont need sleeves, stock sleeves can handle about 300kw. If you're after more power for the strip then just use good fuel.

Not investing in a even length manifold?

Welz i already bought AEM fuel rail anyways to make the engine bay look nice lolz. How much is OEM headgasket for trade price anyways SLOWEGG? i dont think i will be making any were close to 300kw? yerh i just use BP ultimate most of the time anyways wont be going to the strip that much once i break in the engine i go down the strip see how it goes then after that for my enjoyment anyways.

even length manifold? is that custom made ones eg. ram horn style ect?

[SLOWEGG]

Yeh like ramhorn style.. 300kw with your setup? get a nice turbo and manifold easy.

[INTEG]

Yeh like ramhorn style.. 300kw with your setup? get a nice turbo and manifold easy.

nah im keeping my iron cast manifold, im on a tight budget spending most of my money on the block and head, maybe lata on down the track

[SLOWEGG]

You know you dont even need to headwork, a stock head will make plenty of power. You should just worry about building a strong end build and turbo kit you can leave your head stock.

[IEVAQ8]

yeh, dont really waste money on head, or cams and that, just build a tuff bottom end, and ther money you will save doing head work, you could aspend elsewhere, like ram horn manifold, or sleeves.........

[INTEG]

yes your right but it was kinda late nows everything i got already beside my pistons which is coming 1-2 weeks getting made up, but yes i should of thought about that before but i recon that will be plenty of power for me im not going for crazy power

[IEVAQ8]

u will cry for more power once ur over it..hahaha
its neva too much...lol

[Frost_FD]

When will we be seeing more updates?

Im in suspense to see one of a few turbo charged integras in perth

[INTEG]

Hopefully soon like in another 2weeks still waiting for my pistons to come from america that what been holding me up, that why it hasnt been any update on the project yet still sitting there building up dust lolz.

Maybe this week if im not to lazy ill start ripping the gearbox apart and install the diff in...

[INTEG]

u will cry for more power once ur over it..hahaha
its neva too much...lol

Yerh that true but that enough for me too much money on the car, start saving for a house hehe... if any spare money maybe do little things to it welz the next thing i will be doing down the track is a brake upgrade

[DUST]

My stock b18c2 will still own this turbo build lol

Kidding... :thumbsup:

[INTEG]

haaahaaa yerh:rolleyes:

[INTEG]

Finish work early today so i decided to rip the dearbox apart, everything looks fine going to replace the main bearings, diff, input and output bearing. I went to CBC bearings try to match them up F@$k no joy looks like i got to order them from Honda!!! so more waiting to do, i was hoping i could get the bearing matched up and put it together today:(

Some pics for use guys forgot to take some more photo will 2moro

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0066.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0067.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0069.jpg

[INTEG]

Hi everyone, sorry havnt been updating on the project i got my motor backs and been busy putting it back together now i need some help!!! can anyone (pros pls no noob plz) I have installed the head, new water,new oil pump, timing belt, BC cams, skunk2 manifold. Now the problem is there this breather box??? behind the block which has a pipe that goes to the OEM manifold which the skunk2 dosnt have. Can anyone help me out THANKS!!!
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0112.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0110.jpg

This is the pipe i have know clue were it goes from here!!!
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0108.jpg

This the OEM manifold where the pipe goes into

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0109-1.jpg

[SLOWEGG]

Just run that line to a catch can or something. Let it breathe, its to release crankcase pressure. Something you should do when boosted.

[bennjamin]

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0108.jpg

that "pipe" , should run to a PCV (positive crankcase valve) , and then into the inlet manifold.

[INTEG]

Ok thanks alot!!! i get it knows and one more question i cant remember how the emission stuff goes back been to long is it required the red circle not the yellow?
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo01013.jpg

[string]

that "pipe" , should run to a PCV (positive crankcase valve) , and then into the inlet manifold.
You mean PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. It's like ATM machine, but not!

Run it to a catch can. Or better still, ditch the black box and run it to a catch can with a drain-back to the sump.

[kraiye]

wont that still be pressurised though?

[string]

Minorly yes. The more tubes you have going to a catch-can the less pressurised the crankcase will become - and the less oil you'll blow into it.

[INTEG]

Yerh i got a catch can ill just hook it up when the motor goes backs it:thumbsup: cheers guys

[Limbo]

I've also run a catch can between mine

P.S have a look at this site. It explains how to run the catch can effectively. It actually tells you to plug up the standard area in the throttle

http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html#PCV

[INTEG]

Thanks Limbo Great help:thumbsup:

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/B18ct.jpg

[one11]

lookes like one of those china turbos i got

[INTEG]

heys guys any use had any heat problems from oil feed line being so close to the manifold, my line is teflon braided line so would it be ok? it basically touching!!!

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0137.jpg

[SLOWEGG]

I never had a problem with mine and it was touching.

[TODA AU]

heys guys any use had any heat problems from oil feed line being so close to the manifold, my line is teflon braided line so would it be ok? it basically touching!!!

Having the exhaust manifold touching the oil feed line is not good.
It may be ok for a while, but it will fail in time & also add unnecessary heat to the oil.

Try routing the line the other way around,
That is bring the oil feed line in to the core between the engine & the compressor cover, routing back to your oil feed source along the engine / gearbox seam (Dizzy side)
This will be more reliable & it's easier to secure the line out of heat & harm's way.
Hope it works out for you.
Cheers

Adrian

[INTEG]

motor gone back in car nows but still alot more to do cant wait!!!!:D
still need to go the exhaust shop after this is done and tuning

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0142.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0145.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo0143-1.jpg

[Limbo]

yeah i was told that the teflon in the smaller braided lines will start to give i fit up with constant heat all the time.
ALso you don't want the only lube to your turbo being super hot.
i.e squirting 110degree oil awww

[Weq]

Put some heat-wrap around the line. You know that hi-temp reflective stuff.

http://weq.hondatech.com.au/turbo/greddy/returnhose.jpg

[tinkerbell]

Ok thanks alot!!! i get it knows and one more question i cant remember how the emission stuff goes back been to long is it required the red circle not the yellow?
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/cloudinteg/Photo01013.jpg

i think that (red circle) is for the secondary butterfly actuation on the VTiR's dual runner manifold - not needed for the single runner Skunk2 one...

[INTEG]

Hi, i thought i try start up the car today check for leaks and pressure test cooling system before it goes to exhaust shop to get exhaust and intercooler piping done. i tired starting it and it wont start check for injector pulse ok, spark ok so i thought it was the fuel pressure check the fuel pressure it is at 70psi that more then enough then i thought it was the o2 sensor had to be plug in to start still no go. I got a feeling that it the injectors not injecting took out the spark plug and had smelt thought the tube hole cant smell any fuel. I got RC 550cc injectors but i notice that the plug is kinda loose which i dont know if it is normal or it the wrong injectors the guy that i bought it off said i need OBD1 injectors which i dont need the clips? has anyone had this problem?

[DLO01]

Rc injectors use the older obd1 clips.

I take it your car is obd2 and you are trying to use those clips?

To use your Rc injectors you need to get the obd1 clips, cut off the old clips and solder the new ones on.

You can get the obd1 clips off, Jdm Yard or Toda in the traders section.

Good luck with everything man. :thumbsup:

[INTEG]

Rc injectors use the older obd1 clips.

I take it your car is obd2 and you are trying to use those clips?

To use your Rc injectors you need to get the obd1 clips, cut off the old clips and solder the new ones on.

You can get the obd1 clips off, Jdm Yard or Toda in the traders section.

Good luck with everything man. :thumbsup:

That the thing im not using any clips im using the OEM injector harness just pluging straight to the injectors. my integra is JULY 95 and that guy said it is a OBD1

[DLO01]

If your car is Obd1 the clips will fit.

RC's are only Obd1.

Your car is Obd2. You need to confirm this.

[INTEG]

How would i check if the ECU is a OBD1 or 2 just remove the ECU?

[TODA AU]

How would i check if the ECU is a OBD1 or 2 just remove the ECU?

OBD1 Dissy has 2 plugs
OBD2 Dissy has 1 large plug

OBD1 ECU pins are 2 rows high
OBD2 ECU pins are 3 rows high

[INTEG]

Welz my dizzy is 2 plugs and ECU wouldnt have a clue if it 2 row high i think it is

so it is OBD1 plug so OEM injector plug straight in without modifying anything? it not a nice fit just dosnt seem right

[Limbo]

just look at the ecu plugs
http://www.edgeautomotive.com.au/images/ECU%20type%20small.JPG

[DLO01]

Geez we are a helpfull bunch. :p

Here you go. Side by side comparisson of the clips.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/DLO01/Temp/ResizeofDSC03783.jpg

[INTEG]

Geez we are a helpfull bunch. :p

Here you go. Side by side comparisson of the clips.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a265/DLO01/Temp/ResizeofDSC03783.jpg

Thanx that help alot, yerh it is OBD1 ecu and injector plug. so what i done today was got a work mate to wiggle the injector connection while im cranking it and you can smell i strong smell of fuel firing, so im pretty sure it is a poor connection. what use guys recon i should do cause the plug isnt a nice fit you wriggle it side to side that how loose it is!!! it ment to be a perfect fit cause it was made for this OBD1 model THAT SHIT!!!

[DLO01]

Yeh, thats strange man. Its just hard to tell without seeing them. Do they fit snugly on the old injectors? If so theres something up with the RC's

[INTEG]

Yeh, thats strange man. Its just hard to tell without seeing them. Do they fit snugly on the old injectors? If so theres something up with the RC's


yerh it fits nicly on the old ones, i take some foto 2moro and post it. i thought it was strange too
mite have to double check with the guy i bought it off but it was so long ago

[TODA AU]

while im cranking it and you can smell i strong smell of fuel firing

Get a lead light of another bright light source & check for leaks.
Before you start, clean the area (Injectors, rail & manifold) with carb clean or brake clean & blow dry with an air gun.
Have a mate turn the ignition onto the reds (on & off etc) so the fuel pump primes (approx 5sec each time) & repeat a number of times untill you've checked thouroghly.
Any leak will show up as a wet patch, small jet or stream of fuel.
You shouldn't be able to smell fuel under the bonnet (hood)

Also check the rail isn't hung up on the plug, this can prevent the clip sitting home & being tight.

If you can smell fuel, you aught to do this before attempting to start the engine.
Fuel leaks are a potentially serious fire hazard.

Hope that helps

[Limbo]

did you put new seals on it?
THe seals should be bigger than the hole and you need to lube the seal abit to make it fit. It should fit snuggly

[INTEG]

did you put new seals on it?
THe seals should be bigger than the hole and you need to lube the seal abit to make it fit. It should fit snuggly

lolz yes i did put new seals on it and it fits nicly in the injector holes, i was talking about the connector itself to the injector

[Limbo]

hmm my connectors fit snuggly, not issues at all.

[INTEG]

dw guys found out the problem there was a tongue inside the injector which stop the connector from going all the way in, all i did was cut a most of it off and file it down and it went on perfect... i only notice when i was taking photos of it today. well tired starting after that it started for 2secs and stalled think need to setup everything right to idle good

[DLO01]

Sweet, well done man. Its always something simple and stoopid. Good job.

Have fun with it all and good luck. :thumbsup:

[INTEG]

Now guys i got another problem that a little more complicated share some ideas it you can cause im kinda running out of them!!!

ok tired to run the motor and now it just wont start it cranking over but just wont fire up, fuel pressure is at 70psi, got spark, got injector pulse and it has fuel going into the bore know i shined a light down and could see fuel ontop of the pistons and the timing, ok check for compression all at 200psi. not even a back fire sprayed throttle body down the intake still the same. Im trying to start it on stock ECU i dont know it make a different chck for fault codes found none.

I running into a dead end, the theroy of getting a car to run is Air + Fuel + Spark/Ignition = start but it not happing lol

Im going to put my old injectors back in 2moro and see how that goes but if use come up with any other test i can do let me know cheers

[ccrool]

Why is your fuel pressure at 70psi? It should be at 44psi or so.

[INTEG]

Why is your fuel pressure at 70psi? It should be at 44psi or so.

yerh i changed it down to 45psi today and got the motor running it sound so nice and lumpy lol

the problem was the injectors swap my oem ones over and started on first go. so nows i got figure out why those injectors anit work right costed me 550 and they anit working WTF

[SLOWEGG]

What ECU are your running atm?

[INTEG]

What ECU are your running atm?

still standard ECU. After i get my exhaust and intercooler piping done it getting towed to put in hondata ecu and tuned

[IEVAQ8]

because the stock ecu cannot judge the sze of the injectors, its flooding.........and not letting it start..my opinion..............
just wait till you get ur ecu and then put them in and send it away for tune

[Benson]

because the stock ecu cannot judge the sze of the injectors, its flooding.........and not letting it start..my opinion..............
just wait till you get ur ecu and then put them in and send it away for tune

:thumbsup: Spot on. Use your stock injectors to start the car with the stock ECU. ONly use bigger injectros if you have a hondata.

[INTEG]

:thumbsup: Spot on. Use your stock injectors to start the car with the stock ECU. ONly use bigger injectros if you have a hondata.

oh k thanks guys been great help

[string]

Get a fire extinguisher. Incredibly cheap insurance.

[INTEG]

Get a fire extinguisher. Incredibly cheap insurance.


Thanks Yerh i Might get one lol

[dynosaur]

Put some heat-wrap around the line. You know that hi-temp reflective stuff.

http://weq.hondatech.com.au/turbo/greddy/returnhose.jpg

hi there ,

does any1 know where would we get the heat wrap ? bunning ?

thanks :)

[IEVAQ8]

^^^^^^^^^^autobarn......................for some heat wrap

[dynosaur]

^^^^^^^^^^autobarn......................for some heat wrap

thanks :D

[INTEG]

use guys recon 1500 is expensive for 3''inch full exhaust system stainless steel with high flow cat mandrel bend?

[SLOWEGG]

Is that including the dump pipe? I got quoted about 800 for one tig welded for a cat back, metal cat should be about an extra 300.

[INTEG]

Is that including the dump pipe? I got quoted about 800 for one tig welded for a cat back, metal cat should be about an extra 300.

no dump pipe i got that already

[IEVAQ8]

not too bad............
do some shopping............find some workshops that have done this work before.............

[Weq]

use guys recon 1500 is expensive for 3''inch full exhaust system stainless steel with high flow cat mandrel bend?

Stainless costs more money. $1500 is about right for an everyday street price. FWD dumps arnt exactly the easiest things in the world to make.

[INTEG]

Hi Guys,

My car is all done and ready to go for tuning. Im situated in Perth which really sucks..... I called up South West Custom which is hondata dealership for Perth and they got no tuners for hondata cause the guy left the place and didnt even let them know and they got no hondata stuff in stock which is really **** for a dealer. So i spoke to the guy their and he said his going to arrange for James to come over but never heard anything back for 3 weeks i tryed calling them but they never pick up any telephone calls like 5-6 times in a period of 30min WTF is with that no service at all.

so what use guys recond i should do? i want to use the hondata system it good for the price

should i start thinking of changing what ECU i should use like Apexi which is abit more pricey

Hondata $1100 with tuning
Apexi $1100-1200 with out tuning

[string]

Why bother with stainless, mild does the same thing for less price. I mean, if you routinely go under your car to admire a shiny exhaust then stainless is for you.

[DLO01]

Stainless lasts longer. Part of the reason I got a complete stainless exhaust.

[gReY-oNe]

use guys recon 1500 is expensive for 3''inch full exhaust system stainless steel with high flow cat mandrel bend?

i got quoted 600 for all that
shop around ull get a better price

[joewalsh86]

Regarding tuning - aparently there's one Hondata tuner in Perth, but he's out in the stix (Kalgoorlie i heard but not sure). I haven't read the whole post but my advice would be to have a chat to Zak and Gav at Cypher Industries. They are the knowledgable guys and are one of the few workshops in Perth that i would trust with my ITR. They have plenty of experience with turbo builds, but i think their preference is to tune the PFC and not the Hondata. I'd say customer support is pretty essential in your kind of build, and these guys won't let you down. On the down side, it will be more expensive but thats the way it is in Perth!

Hope this helps,

Joe

[IEVAQ8]

y dont you contact james direct and get him to make the trip for you..........
pm me for his details,
plus if you cut him a good deal, you may be able to get a group tune...........

[INTEG]

welz i sent him an mail on hondatech and his email add and still no reply from him so i dont know if SWC is telling the truth or not:(

[IEVAQ8]

he is heaps busy.................like i said pm me and i will give you his contact details

[INTEG]

he is heaps busy.................like i said pm me and i will give you his contact details

Dw i called him he didnt answer but he called me backs and we had a good chat about it it all good his arranging a day soon to come over

[IEVAQ8]

sick................i hope its not too soon.............coz i want him to tune my car first.........lol
good luck with it all

[INTEG]

sick................i hope its not too soon.............coz i want him to tune my car first.........lol
good luck with it all

He just emailed me to day it not comfirmed yet but he think it going to be 25 of April on a friday intill sunday....He is going to announce on hondatech this week he said. He will taking deposits to comfirm the booking. So Perth Honda Drivers show some support!!!:cool:

[IEVAQ8]

kool, good luck, that weekend is the anzac day weekend, wish you luck.
he will be tunning my dc2r hpefully next week, just after easter

[Frost_FD]

Ill support him to come over but will tuning my civic be useful?

[INTEG]

Ill support him to come over but will tuning my civic be useful?

yerh we got 2 ppl comfirmed so far, you will benifit cause you go an exhaust sytem and injen intake system call James and talk to him

[Bludger]

I don't think he would appreciate you posting his number out over the net

lol

i'm gonna start the prank calls

hmmm

wait

wait a lil bit later, bout 3am??

LOOOL

[INTEG]

I don't think he would appreciate you posting his number out over the net

lol

i'm gonna start the prank calls

hmmm

wait

wait a lil bit later, bout 3am??

LOOOL


lol i found it on hondatech so his already giving it out

[IEVAQ8]

any updates????????
i got my dc2r tuned by james on friday night..................
mayde good power

[Bludger]

any updates????????
i got my dc2r tuned by james on friday night..................
mayde good powerstart a thread???

will be interesting to see your setup....

[IEVAQ8]

start a thread???

will be interesting to see your setup....

okay...you convinced me....lol

[IEVAQ8]

I don’t have privileges to post or create a new thread in build threads :(

[Bludger]

I don’t have privileges to post or create a new thread in build threads :(appearance gallery, then they will move it there if they deem it of enough quality....

[Limbo]

dun worry mine's not in there either

[INTEG]

Yerh this thursday James coming over this thursday night his starting on my car on friday morning so i cant wait heys so excited

[IEVAQ8]

tuff................i got in just before he took off...lol
thank god he had to cancel on you guys last week....it gave me a chance to tune my babi.......................

good luck with it all

[destrukshn]

tuff................i got in just before he took off...lol
thank god he had to cancel on you guys last week....it gave me a chance to tune my babi.......................

good luck with it all
out of curiosity, what mods and power did you make?

[INTEG]

out of curiosity, what mods and power did you make?

yerh i was wondering the same?, if you dont mind

[IEVAQ8]

pm's sent to destrukshn & INTEG

[EGB18CT]

send me one to! good to see u finally got it done! anyways along with the original thread....

[IEVAQ8]

come on INTEG.................
whats the results on your boosted teg............
i know that james is back in melb....................so come on spill the good news.........................................

[INTEG]

Lol Wel we had alot of trouble with my car, with BC cams when it hits Vtec it looses all power, James said it either to big or the cams were badly manufractured so i had to put stock B16a cams in it which was only abliable at the time after all the head baging we made 164.8kw at the wheel which was pretty good could made more but my manifold was to resective

[IEVAQ8]

mmmmm..........thats interesting..............
on my set up with stock b18c7 dc2r motor turbo, once vtec was engaged it lost and stopped making torque....it also lost 30 or so kw then started to make power again..............
so what you gonna do now?????????????????

[destrukshn]

Lol Wel we had alot of trouble with my car, with BC cams when it hits Vtec it looses all power, James said it either to big or the cams were badly manufractured so i had to put stock B16a cams in it which was only abliable at the time after all the head baging we made 164.8kw at the wheel which was pretty good could made more but my manifold was to resective
intake or exhaust?

[INTEG]

mmmmm..........thats interesting..............
on my set up with stock b18c7 dc2r motor turbo, once vtec was engaged it lost and stopped making torque....it also lost 30 or so kw then started to make power again..............
so what you gonna do now?????????????????

Yerh that was the thing we couldnt work out it lost everything torque and power like it lost compression. James was saying it could be be cams was badly manfractured so we stuck in B16a cams, thanks to alex and it was fine after that but i could only run 8pound once it got higher boost level the boost was unstable it was fluxuating to much

[IEVAQ8]

mmmmmmm.............
again its wierd..........because we had the same issue with mine, but i got stock standard b18c7 dc2r motor...................

ohh well...........i'll keep you posted on how it goes once i change a few things..............dizzy cap, rotor button, plugs leads & vtec solenoid filter.......i ordered them last week from my mate who works at honda.........should be in on monday................so once fitted and we check valve clearences........i will take it back for final tune and hopefully its fixed...

[IEVAQ8]

any updates man??????????