h22a mods

[b16a man]

Hi i have just purchased a vehicle and it has the h22a engine in it.

I do not want to go turbo and would like to start things slowley.

I know that it has a cat back system and an air filter

what do people reccomend me going for next, i was thinging a set of decent extractors??

Just want some opinions voiced to see what people think, I am not very good with the mechanics of a car and am in a learning curve.

My engine currently has 113kw atw and would like to get this up to 150kw atw eventually over the next year.

But 1 step at a time.

Thanks John

[Benson]

lots of Head Work!

[Luke Accord]

This is how much you have to do to get 150kw atw.

http://www.modproject.com.au/forum/index.php?showtopic=7

[b16a man]

Looks as though i had better save mypennys then :p

[grumpy rooster]

lots of Head Work!

Yep. :thumbsup:

[imratedpg]

first mods you usually do to any engine is intake / headers/ exhaust.

you should get skunk2 intake mani from jdmyard range of intake manifolds (http://customers.ilisys.com.au/jdmya/catalog/index.php?cPath=1_8_112&osCsid=3379d6ac98b22eccf2e4e5fa91e60a85)

headers: theres a large range of aftermarket headers. for example dc sports 4-2-1 headers.

exhaust: you already have one? maybe check what cat you have. i think the most unrestrictive cat out there would be the metal cat? mandrel bent exhausts are less restrictive then press bent ones.

after that i wreckon you should go get urself a hondata and a tune from dynodave. or if you wanted to go the cost effective way to avoid buying a hondata ecu, probs have to get a jumper harness and convert ur ecu to obd1 from ur obd2a (if your h22a is a later model) setting. or maybe ur h22a is obd1 and if so, forget what i was rantin on about! haha

after that i wreckon you could easily achieve atleast 120-125kw atw.

[MRH-22A]

or stick to the h22a headers just like the Hi-Comp Civic

[Benson]

first mods you usually do to any engine is intake / headers/ exhaust.

you should get skunk2 intake mani from jdmyard range of intake manifolds (http://customers.ilisys.com.au/jdmya/catalog/index.php?cPath=1_8_112&osCsid=3379d6ac98b22eccf2e4e5fa91e60a85)

headers: theres a large range of aftermarket headers. for example dc sports 4-2-1 headers.

exhaust: you already have one? maybe check what cat you have. i think the most unrestrictive cat out there would be the metal cat? mandrel bent exhausts are less restrictive then press bent ones.

after that i wreckon you should go get urself a hondata and a tune from dynodave. or if you wanted to go the cost effective way to avoid buying a hondata ecu, probs have to get a jumper harness and convert ur ecu to obd1 from ur obd2a (if your h22a is a later model) setting. or maybe ur h22a is obd1 and if so, forget what i was rantin on about! haha

after that i wreckon you could easily achieve atleast 120-125kw atw.

From what i've been reading, shunk2 manifold don't perform as well as compare to the OEM. If you van get a hold of an Euro R manifold, then you'll be sweet. They give good gains and look like the type R manifolds on a b18c type R. Its an OEm product so you cant go wrong

As for headers, spend the extra money now and save in the long run. Get SMPS, RMF or Camp1320.

Then move on to a ported head. Give it more air flow.

Get a hondata and get dynodave to tune the car. You should be able to make anywhere from 125-135kw depending on dyno.

[imratedpg]

From what i've been reading, shunk2 manifold don't perform as well as compare to the OEM. If you van get a hold of an Euro R manifold, then you'll be sweet. They give good gains and look like the type R manifolds on a b18c type R. Its an OEm product so you cant go wrong

As for headers, spend the extra money now and save in the long run. Get SMPS, RMF or Camp1320.

Then move on to a ported head. Give it more air flow.

Get a hondata and get dynodave to tune the car. You should be able to make anywhere from 125-135kw depending on dyno.

err dont know where you've been reading but how on earth can an aftermarket product be less superior than the original product :eek: proof by dynographs!

you should read here to know about skunk2 intake manifolds here (http://specs.jazzproparts.com/wiki/INTAKE_MANIFOLDS)

Skunk2 intake manifold vs. OEM intake manifold Dynograph (http://www.skunk2.com/images/dyno/S2-H22A-MANIFOLD-vs-STOCK.gif)

Skunk2 intake manifold vs. EURO R intake manifold Dynograph (http://www.skunk2.com/images/dyno/DYNO_S2H22A-vs-EURO-R_1.gif)

as for the DC 4-2-1 headers + exhaust system dynograph (http://nzhondas.com/phpBB2/exhaust-mod-power-gain-from-hell-stoked-vtu74218.html) 12.3kw ATW difference! but its not a genuine 12.3kwatw but if we were to do it, we wouldnt achieve 12.3kwatw because we wouldnt remove the cat now would we :p

but yeah i totally agree on hondata and a tune by dynodave. and as i said in the last post, you should be able to make atleast 120-125kw atw.

[94vtirozguy]

DC headers are a waste of money, and not worth shipping to australia for your car. Their are many more better alternatives.

Skunk IM will give you gains, and tests have show better than Euro R and cheaper.

The main thing is, is to research carefully and for a period of time before jumping in and modifying your car blindly.

[b16a man]

Just so you guys know i bought this vehicle off h22a accord off this forum.

He told me that the headers came with the engine when he bought it.

I think they are jdm ones but i got no idea. Is there anyway i can find out or would you know what they are as the engine is a h22a 200hp engine off a 96 prelude.

Also with the hondata, which model is the best i have read a little but do notunderstand the different models, s100, s200 , s300??

I am so confused and dont want to waste my money on something that i cannot add to later.

Thanks John

[94vtirozguy]

www.hondata.com (http://www.hondata.com) explains the differences between ECU's.

If you have a jap version of the H22 you will have a JAP coded ECU as well (unless it has been changed).

[preludacris]

i'm still skeptical about the skunk2 IM for h22a, as so many have had bad results in the US. i think its a matter of having the right supporting mods, and a good tune tho i guess.


mate, if you want to be pumping 150 atw, i suggest you do get the SMSP header, which is DAim expensive, but is pretty much the best header in the world for the h22a.
the more work to the engine, the greater the gains over any other aftermarket header.


150atw = intake, 2.5 exhaust, smsp header, IM/tb, something like a stage 2 cam head set up, and hondata tune.

[b16a man]

Where can i find ones of those headers??

or find a price on one

Thanks John

[smomo]

Where can i find ones of those headers??

or find a price on one

Thanks John

I dont think the are oficially sold in Australia. But heres their website, I'm sure they'll be able to help you out with shipping.

http://sms-products.com/

[b16a man]

Wow they are hell expensive

Over 1100 for it :(

a bit too much outta my price range at the moment

This is also my daily driver so i do not want to make it undrivable

What a different intake and throttle body do any difference ?? and a hondata tuned??

[Benson]

if you want power you need to spent the money on the right products...this thread is pointless if you have no intention of spending money where is needed ....its like the saying pay to play

[preludacris]

hehe well,

if u not prepared to pay 1100 US (not including the shipping price) on a good set of headers, then dont expect to pull 150 atw

what i can recommend for you tho is a cheap set of headers ( say xforce) and a vafc tune up. that will give u another 10-15 kw, and better drivability for under 1k.

if you wanna spend a lil extra, i recommend a larger rear sway bar (22m) and from there you might want sports springs or coilovers if you can afford.

[Luke Accord]

Hey guys i'm also currently looking into getting a skunk2 IM and TB seeing the aussie dollar is so strong. I've also heard good and bad things about the skunk2 IM has anyone here had experience with it as most of what i hear is coming from the states.
Cheers.

[h22a accord]

John, your headers are JDM and so is your ECU hence the 180kph speed limiter. Even though the engine and ECU is out of a 96 model prelude i can assure you that it is OBD1.

Like i told you when you picked it up, you wont get any gains by changing the header to an xforce or DC header, you have to spend the big money and get a good quality header or get a custom one made.

If i was you i would be looking at a set of cams, adjustable cam gears and a hondata. Although i dont think the hondata is compatible with the JDM p13 ECU in your car so you would have to get another honda ecu that is capable to run a h22a and that is compatible with hondata.

After that, then your options for more power would be on the intake and exhaust side of things.

There is an accord cat convertor in your car so changing that to a good quality hi-flo would be a must. I used to run a 2.5" catback exhaust but it was hella loud and was getting defected for it but the top end pull through VTEC was stronger than with your 2.25" catback which is currently on the car now.

[grumpy rooster]

My suggestion is shave and port the head, get programmable management, and get a good tune. Couple that with a good CAI and and a 2.5" exhaust system from the standard headers and you'd have a good package.

Then get a lightened flywheel and 4.7 final drive. You'd be cooking with gas with that setup. Definite 13's down the quarter. With potential to go much faster.

[b16a man]

Lucky i asked as i dont want to waste cash on things that wont do any good.

By the intake do you mean a bigger air intake and throttle body connecting to the air filter??

Thanks i am not good with the technical side of things still learning. :(

[preludacris]

the jdm header is better than the audm one, but its still not as good as an aftermarket one.

Cams and hondata, sure will make great gains, but thru a stock header, u are wasting your $$ and effort as you won't reap the benefits 100%. not to mention they are Alot more expensive, the tune itself will cost more than $400+


Before we go any further, i think its best that you actually give us a $ amount of how much you are looking/willing to spend. I was under the impression you didn't wanna spend more than 1-2k

[b16a man]

Basically at the moment i have 3k to spend with about another 3k by the end of the year.

Also i do not want to rush into things thats why i have been asking alot of questions

[Luke Accord]

Basically at the moment i have 3k to spend with about another 3k by the end of the year.

Also i do not want to rush into things thats why i have been asking alot of questions

If I were you I would wait til the end of the year when you have 6k and do everything all at once.