Rotors

[chockz]

Hey guys,

i'm need to upgrade my rotors as my they ain't dissipating heat fast enough for track use. I was recommended to keep my calipers, but upgrade to slotted disc brake from DBA.
Anyone done that before? Or anyone has other recommendations like use (DC2R or some other brand rotors)

thanks

chockz

[Int3gra-T]

DBA are fine for us budget users,
but u can go higher and higher just depending on your budget,
eg Project mu, wilwood etc etc.
dba will be fine with the right combo of brake pads

[blk_shadow]

for budget use, probably just go with dba slotted and ebc green stuff pad

[chockz]

yeah u guyz know any particular model?
i was thinking it was worth getting a 2nd hand DC2R rotors ( i don't even know if they match???)

i was thinking of getting mu secret ..hmm...i will think abt it when the track day comes..anyway..how much roughly is a DBA or RDA rotors?

chock

[luxobarge]

so it sounds like your getting brake fade after a few laps on the track.

IMO your going to have a much better result with higher quality pads.

So out of interest what pads are you currently using? And how many laps do you brakes currently last on track?

Really you upgrade rotors to gain more bite (braking force), its not until you increase rotor diameter does it make a decent effect on how long your brakes last (increasing diameter also increases braking capabilites). Another good option would be to upgrade your brake fluid (to what i dont know).

BTW, pads are cheaper than rotors ;)

[aaronng]

yeah u guyz know any particular model?
i was thinking it was worth getting a 2nd hand DC2R rotors ( i don't even know if they match???)

i was thinking of getting mu secret ..hmm...i will think abt it when the track day comes..anyway..how much roughly is a DBA or RDA rotors?

chock

What pads are you using now for track? What brake fluid?

[nd55]

[Warning: Internet mechanic in the area. ]


> need to upgrade my rotors as my they ain't dissipating heat fast enough for track use.

Upgrade as in same size rotors, but with slotting?
Won't help with dissipating heat.

If you're staying with OEM size rotors:
1) higher spec pads - make sure they're bedded in properly.
2) remove the backing plate/dust shield. Will need to wrap ball and toe links
with heat reflective tape.
3) brake ducts. You'll have to DIY these yourself.
4) Get an adjustable proportioning valve (need a twin circuit model $$$). Honda has to set brake bias very much to the forward wheels
so in bad conditions (wet), fronts lockup first. On a track your rear brakes could quote easily take more of the bias.

If you're going larger brakes, either get a brake kit from WIlwood, Brembo or Ap racing and
pay $$$ or install integra dc2r brakes.

1) dc2r rotors, will need to be re-drilled to suit your pcd. 1996 itr rotors are 4x114.3mm and
make it easier to re-drill without overlapping an existing hole if instaling on 4x100 pcd.
Doing this may spoil the balance of the rotor (Thank Yonas for this tip!).
2) 17CL15VN ITR caliper and caliper brackets. This caliper also came on other vehicles
which will lower the price dramatically.
3) pads. Lucas are my pick. Ultimates have a few fans. If tracking car then step up to
Ferodo 2500 ($$$). There are of course MANY others. Lots of threads on Ozhonda.com
about this very topic.
4) 1" master cylinder off ITR. 15/16" may work and a bolts on to existing civic booster.
1" MC has different bolt pattern and requires ITR booster.
Apparently 99+ ITR MC is the MC of choice because the hard line configuration is
the least different amongst the 1" mcs.
5) possibly a 4040 propotrioning valve.


Here's a link to a web page with lots of OEM parts brake upgrade. I'm assuming a civic vehicle
here.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1811368

There's a dc2r setup going on ozhonda, but I don't know anything about kit or seller.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77964

Nick.

[blk_shadow]

yeah u guyz know any particular model?
i was thinking it was worth getting a 2nd hand DC2R rotors ( i don't even know if they match???)

i was thinking of getting mu secret ..hmm...i will think abt it when the track day comes..anyway..how much roughly is a DBA or RDA rotors?

chock

RDA (taiwanese made) is cheaper than DBA (jap made)
I think RDA is roughly below $200 for a pair

[Zilli]

ive got second hand ITR rotors for the front that can be redrilled, and also ITR pads all round that i can do for a good price for you, see my for sale thread mate

[cristian]

RDA (taiwanese made) is cheaper than DBA (jap made)
I think RDA is roughly below $200 for a pair

damn, i always thought DBA was an aussie brand...

i guess u learn something everyday...

[nigs]

DBA = Disc Brakes Australia.... =\
Though the rotors are probably no longer made in AUS.
Same goes for RDA. They're no doubt made in China.

IMO, RDA rotors are fcking weak sauce.
You really do notice the difference in build quality.
Price wise, DBAs will be nearly double RDAs.

Shame I haven't been able to hammer the shiet out of RDAs yet.
I'd give some feed back but alas brakes are teh borked.
GG aye.

[e240]

[1) dc2r rotors, will need to be re-drilled to suit your pcd. 1996 itr rotors are 4x114.3mm and
make it easier to re-drill without overlapping an existing hole if instaling on 4x100 pcd.
Doing this may spoil the balance of the rotor (Thank Yonas for this tip!).


Great post

Actually you can buy 4x100 pre-drilled 282mm sized rotors. I'm using some Taiwanese branded Exzess.

[nd55]

> Actually you can buy 4x100 pre-drilled 282mm sized rotors. I'm using some Taiwanese branded Exzess.

This is probably too late for me, but for future reference do you have a web link or retailer
who carries these?

Nick.

[e240]

> Actually you can buy 4x100 pre-drilled 282mm sized rotors. I'm using some Taiwanese branded Exzess.

This is probably too late for me, but for future reference do you have a web link or retailer
who carries these?

Nick.

Unfortunately, I actually picked this up in Singapore whilst on holidays. A spare set was brought in for me from a friend in Taiwan. don't know who sells these here in AU.

I can give you the Singapore Shop though. You might be able to arrange for them to ship it in.

[chockz]

argh..i will go back to sg during x'mas
but i think i will juz use the stock GLi rotors + ENDLESS SSS or SSY
depends.

[nd55]

> I can give you the Singapore Shop though. You might be able to arrange for them to ship it in.

I imagine shipping would hurt, but post up the link, please.

Nick.

[chockz]

nah..thanks anyway..i think i know where to get..
got heaps of mate who plays honda back home.

definitely not garage R though...lol

[SeverAMV]

as far as i know, there will be a delay on endless sss/ss-y whilst endless change the friction material.

drilling factory itr rotors will only be good if theyre entirely made of metal. drilling ceramic rotors or partially ceramic rotors will cause cracking, better to get predrilled ones.

dba slotted rotors for me ED set me back 150 a corner, and i only needed two so it wasnt too bad. avoid drilled brakes if you drive a lot in the rain, as the constant temperature change can deform your rotors.

if you're not sure what rotors will fit, pull up a dba stock chart, they'll tell you all the dimensions of the brake rotor, including diameter, depth, etc.

[m0nty ITR]

I'm getting AP Racing rotors fitted on my car next week. Not cheap though. $700 front and $550 rear.

[chockz]

Thanks guys..for the replies..
since the track day is round the corner..
i was wondering if anyone has "thoughts" on
GLi solid disc + performance pads (0-400)? a good combo
for last minute action...

[EG30]

Thanks guys..for the replies..
since the track day is round the corner..
i was wondering if anyone has "thoughts" on
GLi solid disc + performance pads (0-400)? a good combo
for last minute action...

hmmmm while I can't comment how hard you might brake on the track in your EG with B18C engine, I can tell you about my experience in my EG Si D16A8with the same tiny 240 ish mm rotors....

fitted those 240mm rotors in slotted form from RDA, and pads being Lucas/TRW which was supposed to be work in the 0-550 to 600C range....

and the combo was great in the street ie no noise, squeal and great braking power and much better than OE setup...

and when I tried to hammer the car one night on the streets ie backstreets late at night with some 3-4 big stops in succession down to 20km/h ( no I won't mention the speeds I got up to but with the power i had and the length of those back streets they were huge either )and the pedal feel had already started to go away and felt very greasy and scary.

got out of the car and check the rotor temp with my infra red thermometer and it got up to 380C already which was some 80-100C more than I was expecting and while the pads were rated a lot higher their friction co-efficient had dropped off severely by 380C.

so to sum up it's much better to get a larger rotors of at least 262mm from the eg6/ek4 etc or better still 282mm from the ITR as the bigger frictional area from the rotors and bigger pads are going to save the day in extreme conditions. I've just upgraded the brakes in my EG to EG6 spec.

[e240]

Thanks guys..for the replies..
since the track day is round the corner..
i was wondering if anyone has "thoughts" on
GLi solid disc + performance pads (0-400)? a good combo
for last minute action...

I did a couple of track days on stock rotors and some $90 pads
Had fresh fluids, and it held up really well.

[e240]

nah..thanks anyway..i think i know where to get..
got heaps of mate who plays honda back home.

definitely not garage R though...lol

Why not Garage R? I get most of my stuff from Garage R and the prices have always been very reasonable.

[Limbo]

i'd get the larger caliper and discs from ek4 or GLI +2000 model which is a 262mm disc.
Its still 4x100 and will give you extra stopping power without doing much.
You can then get the better pads to help again

[cristian]

i'd get the larger caliper and discs from ek4 or GLI +2000 model which is a 262mm disc.
Its still 4x100 and will give you extra stopping power without doing much.
You can then get the better pads to help again

i just got me a pair...going in this weekend...

hmm...anxious...

[SeverAMV]

im currently running dba slotted rotors with bendix heavy duty pads at the front, and bendix shoes in the rear drums. they managed to take 3 hours worth of non-stop hills abuse without fading, so i dont know how you guys can complain about the brakes dying so quickly (altho ED6 chassis doesnt weigh too much). the high temperature markers on the side of the rotors havent burnt off either, it kept within the 200-300 degree range too. in the end, it was my brake master cylinder that gave up before the rotors and pads.

[cristian]

any1 know how the bendix 'heavy duty' (i think they're called ultimate) compares to EBC Greenstuff pads?!?

[luxobarge]

bendix ultimates are shit...

we have them on the mx5... they do work and i havent had them fade but there is no feel which IMO and MANY others makes them a shit pad.

Whilst i havent used EBC Greenstuff going off from the stuff ive heard / read...

Greenstuff > Ultimates.

[SeverAMV]

any1 know how the bendix 'heavy duty' (i think they're called ultimate) compares to EBC Greenstuff pads?!?

bendix heavy duty and ultimates are different products. the 'street, road, track' ones are apparently good enough to compete with project mu, but they dont make them for honda yet. bendix are good if you want braking power straight out of the box, and you want to use them only for the odd track days, as they dont need to be bedded in. but beyond that, you're better off getting another brand.

[ennavoli]

As far as economics go and for myself, I just get OEM rotors with high temp pads, once they are "eaten up", I just throw them away and get another pair. LOL

I got a pair of OEM brembo blanks for about $120 dollars.

OEM rotors can last a couple of track days (or 3) for me, just depends on how u drive. I used to have a pair of brembo slotted rotors and I found not much difference from stock performance except they are not as prone to cracking as my OEM ones are.

[Limbo]

ennavoli - where did you get brembo blanks from i've been looking for them!

cristian - i'm putting in larger brakes in also going 282mm this weekend!

[ennavoli]

ennavoli - where did you get brembo blanks from i've been looking for them!


I got a friend to buy from a honda stockist in Singapore and send it to me. :thumbsup:

[fatboyz39]

ennavoli - where did you get brembo blanks from i've been looking for them!

cristian - i'm putting in larger brakes in also going 282mm this weekend!

Search on hond-tech. A trader can supply 4x100 drilled 282mm rotors.

[bennjamin]

slotted rotors arent all that necessary-Id look at slotted for the rear only (to help with the solid rears) as the front is more than adequate.

[ekhybrid]

DBA = Disc Brakes Australia.... =\
Though the rotors are probably no longer made in AUS.
Same goes for RDA. They're no doubt made in China.

IMO, RDA rotors are fcking weak sauce.
You really do notice the difference in build quality.
Price wise, DBAs will be nearly double RDAs.


LOL :thumbdwn:
DBA, they are manufactured in silverwater, sydney

[nigs]

So they are still made in AUS till this day?

[EG30]

only the DBA 4000 and 5000 series are made in Aus, the rest of range of DBA, RDA and Protac brands are made mostly in China, then Thailand and Taiwan. Cost way too much to make low end rotors in Aust.

RDA has just bought a factory in Malaysia that makes Moly Carbide rotors for their coming performance range. Even the 4000 and 5000 series DBA rotors are cast iron, albeit higher grade than the normal grade cast iron that is stable up to only 630C.

[chockz]

Wow, you do a blacksmith or some brake guru?
tat's wick sick knowledge

[EG30]

Nah wish I was, fren of mine owns a brake supply/wholesale business in Perth. They distribute Bendix, Ferodo, DBA, Protac, EBC/RDA, AP products and resells wilwood, endless, apexi thus he tells me what he thinks w/out the BS and the industry goss.