clutch & spark plugs

[Simmo2302]

ok first the clutch.

problem 1, clutch pedal has a "vibration" through it when bringing it up past the clutch point.

problem 2, put clutch in to change gear (anygear up or down) go to bring clutch up, and clutch pedal stays down. have to put foot back down, put into neutral, then can bring clutch up.

problem 3, usually when changing from 1st to 2nd at high ev's (racing) gear stick "pops" out of 1st into neutral byitself when clutch pedal is depressed.


so how far gone do you thing the clutch is ? is it easy to replace urself or leave it for the professionals, any iodea on approx price?


second the spark plugs

went to replkace the spark plugs, proper plug according to cd manual and NGK are ZFR6J-11.

Repco gave me ZFR5J-11 exactly the same made ie size & internals, but slightly hotter plug. as they dont stock the ZFR6J-11.

will this affect the cars performance, ie power or fuel efficiency?

someone once told me that a hotter plug may ignite the fuel/air mixture too early resulting in poorer performance (power wise).

[omgzilla]

Tried bleeding your master and slave cylinders?




As for the spark plugs - If the plug is too hot (heat range) it could cause pre-ignition/pinging or if its too cold it can cause misfire/fouling.

Not exactly sure on your model of car. It could run fine, but generally you should use the correct heat range specified.

I ran the next range colder in my previous car and caused a constant misdire on idle... but then again, that's just my experience.

[Limbo]

Sounds like you need to bleed your clutch that should fix 1 & 2.
Slightly hotter plugs won't affect your stock car much except in higher temp.
If you notice the car running funny when in hot weather you can always change them.

[Simmo2302]

ok, at the risk of sounding like a dumbarse, how to u bleed ur clutch?

isnt the clutch a cable from the pedal to the clutch assy? in my old colt it was (thats the only other manual i have had)

this prob has kinda eased off atm, so i dunno what it was.

thanks 4 info on the sparks :-)

[omgzilla]

Your vehicle (i'm assuming its an '02 ES1 as stated in your details) has a Hydraulic clutch - not a cable type.

To bleed your clutch it is much the same as bleeding your brakes. You need to bleed both the Master cylinder and the slave cylinder.

Here's a DIY:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20212&highlight=bleeding+clutch

Obviously your car may be a little different as to where the bleeder nipple is positioned, but the concept is the same.

Have fun!

[Simmo2302]

cool thanks :-)

[Simmo2302]

how much fluid do one usually go thru to change the clutch fluid ? 500ml or less ?

loos like the bleed is off the slave cylinder, cant see anywhere else to do it

[omgzilla]

Thats the spot mate!

You should really only need 1x 500ml bottle, but you may aswell do your brakes while you're at it - in 'bleeding' mode.

Get yourself 2x bottles (its cheap as chips) and do both.

Just remember that it has a poor 'shelf life' - if you open it (exposing it to air) and leave it sitting around it will slowly lose its anti-boiling properties. Use all you need and then discard the rest (unless you plan on using it to top up soon).

Brake/Clutch fluid is hygroscopic; meaning that it draws moisture to itself. If left exposed to the atmosphere it will draw enough moisture into itself and become almost water, itself = bad for braking/clutch systems!

Have fun!