Engine Oil for the S2000

[BlueBeast]

What engine oil (Brand/Viscosity) are you using and what's been your experience with it?

[MRK-01]

Use Honda OEM High Performance Oil. Seems to work fine for me, longest lasting..!!

[.::F[L]Y::.]

ELF 10-40.

pretty good oil. but then again i change my oil every 5000kms or less.

[ludecrs]

Honda OEM or Mobil 1 10-30

Havent used the Castrol Edge 5-30 or Mobil 1 0-40 yet.

[DNTBLO_S2k]

Hey Guys What About Motul Or Royal Purple Are They Any Good? Where Can I Get Oem Oil From? I Need To Service My Car Not Shure What To Use.

[BlueBeast]

Y::.;1448581']ELF 10-40.

pretty good oil. but then again i change my oil every 5000kms or less.

Isn't that too heavy for a high comp engine of the S2000?
Anyone running Castrol synthetic 5w-30?

cheers

[MRK-01]

Motul also are good, used that once before, the OEM stuff you can get from Honda Service Centres.

[DR HONDA]

I use to use FEO but found it breaks down to quickly in r type engines. Have changed to castrol edge synthetic 5w 30 :thumbsup: and have not had any issues with it. FEO is great for your base type engines.

[hieppy]

i use royal purple,
heard it was the best and it works like a charm for me
worth the extra few bucks imo

[aaronng]

Isn't that too heavy for a high comp engine of the S2000?
Anyone running Castrol synthetic 5w-30?

cheers

Nope, it is not too heavy. The S2k can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 in our climate.

[integrity]

FEO works fine for my or Motul full synthetic 10 w 40

[.::F[L]Y::.]

how much is castrol synthetic 5-30? might give that a go.

[aaronng]

Y::.;1450092']how much is castrol synthetic 5-30? might give that a go.

$45-50. It's a hydrocracked synthetic though. If you are after a true synthetic, you'll have to get the castrol Edge 0w-40 instead and that's $70 at retail price.

[.::F[L]Y::.]

with the numbers. 5-30

isnt 5 represents when cold and 30 for its heat range? viscosity (spelling)

cause i remember that for track use the FEO honda oil gets thin very quickly.

[aaronng]

Y::.;1450124']with the numbers. 5-30

isnt 5 represents when cold and 30 for its heat range? viscosity (spelling)

cause i remember that for track use the FEO honda oil gets thin very quickly.

Yup, 5 at -18ºC and 30 at 100ºC. Last time when I was at Wakie, I used the 0w-40 and it was good.

Also, 0 and 5 are the same viscosity, except that 0 flows at up to 10ºC lower than 5.

[NVD52K]

i use elf oil 10w30 full synthetic

[DNTBLO_S2k]

hey guys anyone know anywhere good they would recomend to service my car? asked hanny e said around $550 for major service, is that good?
also he said he will use feo and elf oil? is that any good? thanks for the help

[NVD52K]

hannys is very good and very trustworthy he is my mechanic and does a very good job lol but he only works on hondas u bring him a nissan or anything else he refuses to work on it elf oil is what i use and is a very good oil used for racing and he has very competitive prices

[BlueBeast]

hey guys anyone know anywhere good they would recomend to service my car? asked hanny e said around $550 for major service, is that good?
also he said he will use feo and elf oil? is that any good? thanks for the help

What's 'feo'??

[NVD52K]

Honda FEO – a high quality premium Genuine Honda Engine Oil

[DNTBLO_S2k]

so feo is good?

[aaronng]

FEO is a mineral oil, 10w-30. While it is good for a mineral oil, it is still no match against the synthetic offerings from other brands.

[.::F[L]Y::.]

isnt honda FEO just re badged castrol oil?

[NVD52K]

yeh pretty much man honda has oil but castrol makes it anyway although hannys uses elf which is very good quality oil

[aaronng]

Y::.;1451736']isnt honda FEO just re badged castrol oil?

Nope, FEO is made by Caltex, not Castrol.

[troys2000]

does the thiner oils get used heaps quicker??

[vtek]

yes but the f20c needs light weight oil, so the only thing you can do is keep toping up the oil if its low.

[andiiso]

Yup, 5 at -18ºC and 30 at 100ºC. Last time when I was at Wakie, I used the 0w-40 and it was good.

Also, 0 and 5 are the same viscosity, except that 0 flows at up to 10ºC lower than 5.

just to make sure, so the 0w-40 and 5w-30 .. the 5 and 0 are same except 5 goes down to -18C and 0 goes to approx -28C ?

[aaronng]

just to make sure, so the 0w-40 and 5w-30 .. the 5 and 0 are same except 5 goes down to -18C and 0 goes to approx -28C ?
5 goes lower than -18C, it goes to about -40 C. 0 will go lower than that (I made a mistake before, it's not 10 C lower, it's 10 F). So about -46 C.

If you take 5 and 0 oil, test the viscosity at -18 C, they should both be the same.

[andiiso]

oic .. thats good to know cos recently i bought wrong oil (0w-40) haha and was gonna go swap with my friend for his 5w-50 even tho big difference in price (i dun realli mind lolz) cos i thought would be way too thin for me.

[aaronng]

oic .. thats good to know cos recently i bought wrong oil (0w-40) haha and was gonna go swap with my friend for his 5w-50 even tho big difference in price (i dun realli mind lolz) cos i thought would be way too thin for me.

For the Australian climate, 0 and 5 doesn't matter. The 2nd number matters more. 40 is fine, 50 is too thick. Not much point using 50 unless you have an old F22a engine which was specced for 10w-40 before.

[NVD52K]

elf 10w40 is what i use

[ludecrs]

I use Mobil 1 10-30

Thinking of trying the 0-40 next as my car has nearly 100km's.

[datzlr]

i use full syn elf oil :D awesome oil :D

[aznsiko]

ive tried
SHELL HELIX ECO-10 (10-30) completely shit...
ROYAL PURPLE (10-40) loss viscosity at about 3500KM shit...

now back to

GENUINE HONDA OIL "FEO" think i will just stick to this..

ive been told not much oil can put up with 9000RPM.. and last the duration it is expected to.. so that explains it...

[aaronng]

Shell Helix Eco 10 is fully mineral and cheap.
What about Motul 8100 5w-40? Have you tried that one?

[yellows2k]

i just use the honda feo oil, it costs me about $25 for teh large container, and it might need a topping up when a 10k km service is due if the car has been driven hard or a track day, but besides that, usage is minimal

[-parkes-]

Just brought the stock Honda S2K oil... is it true that it's recommended that you check your oil everytime you fill your tank?

Thanks not cool.

[ludecrs]

Depends if your S burns a shitload oil each week or not.

Mine doesnt at all, but I know some do.

[ludecrs]

Just thought I'd update you all as I was thinking under the hood yesterday and noticed this but on the Engine Oil Cap, it actually reads to use a 10-30w engine oil.

[AusS2000]

The two numbers represent viscosity or resistance to flow.

Xw-Y

X represents the viscosity at 0 degrees celcius.
w is for winter.
Y represents the viscosity at 100 degrees celcius.

We seldom get to 0 degrees in Aus and 100 is about operating temp so only the second number is relevant.

Now keen natural scientists may notice that the oil seems to get thicker as it gets hotter which is against the natural law of things. That is because it is 'Friction Modified' oil and undergoes a molecular change as it heats up in the range from 0-100C. Below 0 it gets thicker and above 100 it gets thinner.

Here endeth the lesson. Now where's my cookie?

[-parkes-]

^^

Woah lookout.... the cookie monster is at it again :D LOL

[aaronng]

It's -18 C. So it is even less relevant! (but still important).

[AusS2000]

Ooops, that is correct. It's 0 degrees Fahrenheit which is -18 degrees Celcius.

[aaronng]

I LOL a little when people say 0w and 5w are too thin for their engine, and that someone told them to put in 15w for added protection, when they totally ignore the hot temperature viscosity.

Another post asked if he should put in 15w-30 instead of 10w-30 because his engine had many kms on it... I think we need a stickied oil FAQ!

[irvinchua]

Shell Helix Eco 10 is fully mineral and cheap.
What about Motul 8100 5w-40? Have you tried that one?

Motul 8100 5W40 is oil I've mainly used in the past 4 years. A friend of mine had used it on his DC2R and his S2000. It stands up very well to a good sustained VTEC thrashing IMO.

I've had Fuch's in my S2K and that burned off rather quickly but the Motul has had a harder life but suffered less burn-off.

My friend's Integra used to burn off quite a bit of Mobil1 with blue smoke but that pretty much stopped once he swapped over to the Motul 8100.

These are only a lay-person's observations and subject to any scientific evaluation though.

[aaronng]

Motul 8100 5W40 is oil I've mainly used in the past 4 years. A friend of mine had used it on his DC2R and his S2000. It stands up very well to a good sustained VTEC thrashing IMO.

I've had Fuch's in my S2K and that burned off rather quickly but the Motul has had a harder life but suffered less burn-off.

My friend's Integra used to burn off quite a bit of Mobil1 with blue smoke but that pretty much stopped once he swapped over to the Motul 8100.

These are only a lay-person's observations and subject to any scientific evaluation though.
Do you know what viscosity is the Fuch? Also, was the Mobil1 the 5w-50 in the silver bottle or the 0w/10w-30 in the gold bottle?

[S2kane]

So the mobil 1 5 - 50w is too heavy for the s2k?

[AusS2000]

Yes, 5w50 is too heavy for the S2k. 10w30 is recommended. 10w40 at most.

[ludecrs]

I'm using the Mobil 1 10-30 with the Comptech kit too.

Presumed this should be ok.

I ran 5-50 once.... Car ran like crap. Swapped it out myself no more than 2000kms later.

[JMSBND]

I just ordered 10 litres from Honda in Frankston this morning. Doing the gearbox and diff too this weekend all genuine.

Good prices and they have always been good to me there with my other Hondas. Correct me if I am wrong, but Honda are a mineral oil? I change my engine oil every 5000km anyway.

James.

[BlueBeast]

I'm using the Mobil 1 10-30 with the Comptech kit too.

Presumed this should be ok.

I ran 5-50 once.... Car ran like crap. Swapped it out myself no more than 2000kms later.

Sorry but what's the 'Comptech kit'?

[AusS2000]

It's a supercharger kit.

[BlueBeast]

It's a supercharger kit.

Thanks, i didn't know. Generally been in the 'turbo' scene with a STi TypeR and a R34GTR. Now alos have the S2K. Any idea about the power gains with the s/c kit?

[AusS2000]

About a 100hp in standard form. You can upgrade the boost though with the necessary mods.

[BlueBeast]

About a 100hp in standard form. You can upgrade the boost though with the necessary mods.

that's about a 40% gain.....that's not bad!

[AusS2000]

It's actually about 50% gain as we're talking at the wheels.

But you should see what a turbo can do. 75-100% is not unobtainable.

[DC5TYPER]

Motul 300V Chrono 10w-40 (Spoon Sports recommend this for there engines)!

Double Ester $120 for a 4L and a 2L Bottle. :D

Used this on my DC5R for track and now on the S2000. Changed every 3-5K km.

Revs feel very smooth and loves revving to 9K. A lot better then Mobil 1 Gold Bottle. Which is $80 for 5L.

[.::F[L]Y::.]

royal purple 10-40 here. Dont know if its just my head playing tricks but the car does feel like it revs smoother than when i was using the Elf oil?

oh yea, and the oil is actually purple!

[EG30]

how about 0w20 FEO?

seen a bottle of that in a 4L metal container at my local Honda parts dept some 2 years ago, it was about $80-90 and the parts guy said it's for the S2000. Unlike the 10w30 mineral oil made by an australian petroleum company bottled in a container with a Honda/FEO sticker; this one is fully syn imported from Japan.

[eriktufa]

I've just recently changed from Mobil 1 Gold (from Honda) to Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40 and it runs better, smooth plus engine is quieter.

[ludecrs]

I'm tempted to change, but since I can now markdown Mobil 1 10-30 to like $35 since its on clearance, I think I'll just keep using it until I can no longer get it.

[BlitZ]

hey.. i know no one uses 50..

but if its tracked. would the 50 rated oil be ideal.? as it doesnt break down as quick @100+ degrees

[vtek]

thats the Hybrid oil and is very light weight 0w20, it wont last long in the s2000 as 10-30 is light enough. They shouldnt be telling you its for the s2000.


how about 0w20 FEO?

seen a bottle of that in a 4L metal container at my local Honda parts dept some 2 years ago, it was about $80-90 and the parts guy said it's for the S2000. Unlike the 10w30 mineral oil made by an australian petroleum company bottled in a container with a Honda/FEO sticker; this one is fully syn imported from Japan.

[vyets]

I've just recently changed from Mobil 1 Gold (from Honda) to Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40 and it runs better, smooth plus engine is quieter.

Exactly the same as you. Motul owns it! I'm also burning less oil as well. :thumbsup: Motul

[ludecrs]

^

I was actually going to try that next :thumbsup:

[JMSBND]

I just dumped my oil after 5000km and a track day. Car has 60,000km and I run Honda 10w30 and it was still pretty nice. Doesn't use too much even after a full day tracking at Sandown. I think it's good value and since I change every 5000km not to bad at all. I run it in my CRX ZC race car too and will probably run it in my vintage air cooled stuff this summer as well.

I have never had an issue with factory oil in 12 years of Honda ownership.

[icecrm]

how much does hanny usually charge for a servcie??

[eriktufa]

Good condition F20C engine shouldn't burn oil at all even with using different types of oil.

[ludecrs]

Some burn a lot of oil though Erik.

My friend has 50K on the speedo, and he checks the engine oil every 2 petrol fillups.

[eriktufa]

That's really odd then mmmmm there should be another reasons why it burns oil though..

I'm no expert here :)

[rastus]

My understanding is that the AP1's have a ring flutter issue at high revs, causing consumption when rev'd hard. Some people see it others don't, may be driving style.

Consumption in my AP1 seems to reflect this as well.

[BlueBeast]

I just dumped my oil after 5000km and a track day. Car has 60,000km and I run Honda 10w30 and it was still pretty nice. Doesn't use too much even after a full day tracking at Sandown. I think it's good value and since I change every 5000km not to bad at all. I run it in my CRX ZC race car too and will probably run it in my vintage air cooled stuff this summer as well.

I have never had an issue with factory oil in 12 years of Honda ownership.

10w30 is heavier than 5w30 (from Castrol).

[AusS2000]

Not true is real world conditions.

The number before the w is the viscosity at -18C. Not a temperature your likely to see. The number after the w is the viscosity at 100C. Considering this number is the same for both oil specifications and the Winter number isn't really that relevant the two oils are basically the same weight.

[BlueBeast]

^^ I stand corrected.

[ludecrs]

Just an update on this since I need an oil change and stumbled across this on s2ki...

http://home.tiscali.nl/onlinestorage/Oil%20Specs.JPG

[98octane+]

I was last using Motul 300V Chrono last 5000k's and just changed to 8100 X-cess now. The engine rev seems more responsive to the 300V. Then again the 300V is abit more expensive.

[ducbui91]

Could somone confirm how much oil to top up when changing oil and filter? isit 4.7L?and do i need to fill the new oil filter up to half way before whacking it on my car?( i think i read that from s2ki). and finally how long are the intervals before i need to change them. p.s running 10w30 feo
cheers

[tay113]

yesterday,i have just changed the oil from hondas mineral since last service 6months ago with 2500km.The oil was fairly dark and i replaced with valvoline synthetic 5/40 from repco.After starting up the engine,i heard the tappet sound for awhile thinking its playing up but guess its the oil going through the chambers.I love the smooth drive.Its good using non mineral the first time.

[zhong]

Exactly the same as you. Motul owns it! I'm also burning less oil as well. :thumbsup: Motul

Where to get this? And how much?

[twofake]

Penrite HPR 5
Semi-synthetic for the latest generation of high performance engines, particularly those with variable valve timing. Use where SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils and ILSAC GF-3/GF-4 fuel economy oils are called for.
I just put this in recently but have been using FEO Honda oil.
Has anyone tried Bitron added to the oil? I tried in in my 92 Civic and that has done 340 000KM and the engine is still good.

[Marst4r]

Where to get this? And how much?

Autobarn stock it, Repco and Supercheap Auto don't. I think it's around $100 for 4Litres (Motul Chrono 300V 10W-40)

[jonezy]

mates got a s2000 with 190kms on the clock what would use recomend 15w 40?

[ludecrs]

With the new motor I'm now running the edge 10-60.. See how we go.

[garett]

just changed the oil in my s2000 for the first time

have to say its a great car to work with. oil bucket sitting under the sump plug also seems to be in the perfect position for the drain off from the oil filter.
everything is easy to access and easy to do. ! love working on a car which has had everything thought of and placed somewhere for a reason.

[AusS2000]

Yeah ahhh, wait till you do a clutch job. ;)

[ludecrs]

Or thermostat.

[garett]

thermostat ill touch. clutch can go to the pros.

[garett]

wow that thermostat looks like a bitch to get to.!

[ludecrs]

Yer, shitty design. Should be up the top.

[ducbui91]

How much litres of oil should I b pouring using feo 10w30 and is it necessary to fill the oil filter half way?
Any help would b great. Cheers

[garett]

nah, would be very hard to do. you will be pouring it all out when your screwing it back onto the block anyway.
my car took a bit over 4.2 L i think

[euromandeluxe]

How much litres of oil should I b pouring using feo 10w30 and is it necessary to fill the oil filter half way?
Any help would b great. Cheers

It may be personal preference but I fill the filter half way - the filtration medium inside the filter absorbs a lot of the oil that you pour in which stops it from pouring out when you screw it onto the block.

[garett]

i guess it cant hurt. just don't really see the point.

as soon as you start the engine it will pump oil through it.

air locks dont occur in the oil system as they would in the cooling system.

[9large]

Yer, shitty design. Should be up the top.

Don't you just jack the car up and get to it that way? It'd be more convenient being more accessible, but that doesn't make it a shitty design.

[9large]

as soon as you start the engine it will pump oil through it.


Yeh, I don't see the point of it either!

[ludecrs]

In regards to accessibility, sure ; but by shitty design, I meant the actual thermostat / housing placement should be closer to the engine so circulation for the desired temperature is more accurate earlier on. Our thermostat placement is much like that of an SR20. On a nit picking point - sure it works, but it could be better. :)

[9large]

Hmmm... Ok. So you're no longer providing a counter argument against garett's comment, but talking about something altogether, completely off-topic... :) Anyway, once the engine and coolant system is running, I can't imagine there'd be much variance/delay in response from the thermostat.

[ludecrs]

Its still an inconvenience when better placement would mean it wouldn't have to be...

[9large]

Agreed :)

[boodgy]

Hey guys,

Engine oil is sitting on low mark on dipstick. Got a service booked in, mechanic is 15 kms away. Will I make it there without having to top up the oil?

[AusS2000]

The low mark on the dip stick means a litre down. If you have some oil (and every S2000 owner should) top it up. If you haven't it will be ok.

[boodgy]

Thanks dude. Only just got the car recently and didn't expect the oil to drop this quick.

[twofake]

Thanks dude. Only just got the car recently and didn't expect the oil to drop this quick.

Yeah lucky you checked as I spoke with Honda when I bought my S2000 about 18 months ago and they told me they had two S2000s in for engine rebuilds as the new owners did not see that the oil would drop so fast.

I checked my oil consumption and it drops about 1/2 way between the full to the low mark in 2000 to 2500km using Penrite HPR5 (or Honda FEO).

[s2kjn]

I changed my oil less than 1500km ago using Castrol edge 5w30. Its now below the low level so just went in my lunch break to pick some more up. This is the third time I've used this grade of oil from Castrol, and on all occassions between 2-3000 km's, it falls down to low in my car. Anyone know if I should be using a different grade since mine has clocked 163000km's?

[boodgy]

anyone here tried out honda feo "ultra"? went into honda to grab an oil filter and saw it on display. its fully synthetic 5 or 10w-30 (cant exactly remember if its 5 or 10)

[phatty]

Used Honda OEM high performance oil, straight from peter warren. I think around $70? I forgot

[l3vnd1]

anyone here tried out honda feo "ultra"? went into honda to grab an oil filter and saw it on display. its fully synthetic 5 or 10w-30 (cant exactly remember if its 5 or 10)


Yes I saw this too - will be putting it in when I have my next service.

[doosra]

I changed my oil less than 1500km ago using Castrol edge 5w30. Its now below the low level so just went in my lunch break to pick some more up. This is the third time I've used this grade of oil from Castrol, and on all occassions between 2-3000 km's, it falls down to low in my car. Anyone know if I should be using a different grade since mine has clocked 163000km's?

I'm the same, my car was serviced 2-3000kms ago as well and I checked today and it was sitting under low. Can anyone suggest a better longer lasting oil?

[greek_rambos2k]

i also found that castrol 5w30 burnt very fast in mine too.

[boodgy]

try using a thicker oil like 10w-40. ive been using Nulon for about 1k kms and still high on dipstick.

[dlai5552]

Just take it to Hanny's Performance. I think they use the Honda Oil for most cars. Works awesome!
However, I know another s2k who has been using 5w-30 and has had no problems with it going too low too quick :S

[KonnecXion]

Using Penrite 15w- 40 (extra 10 to 50). So far so good, I have high K's.

[zhong]

I better check my 5w30 then hey!

[stndrd]

Originally Posted by s2kjn
I changed my oil less than 1500km ago using Castrol edge 5w30. Its now below the low level so just went in my lunch break to pick some more up. This is the third time I've used this grade of oil from Castrol, and on all occassions between 2-3000 km's, it falls down to low in my car. Anyone know if I should be using a different grade since mine has clocked 163000km's?


i went to winton raceway on friday with my eg which has about the same amount of km's on it as your s2k and i tried out Nulon's 15w50 full synthetic oil, and having been using 10w60 edge sport for the last 15,000km, i felt the difference from first start up. the motor felt alot smoother, oil temps never got above average, holds pressure nicely and after 30 laps not a single bit was burnt off. i have started putting this oil into customers cars as well and they are all coming back with massive smiles on their faces. 5w-30 is definitely too thin for a motor that has clocked over 100,000km. try out the Nulon oil and let me know how you go with it

[greek_rambos2k]

does it matter how many kms are on your engine when picking an oil. my next service is coming up and that will be 130,000km on the clock

[dlai5552]

I think if the engine is well maintained, you could just stay standard oil that you have been using the whole time.
But if it wasnt as well maintained, something like 10W-40 would be good?

atm, I am using Castrol 5W-30, but I might change it up for this 100K service I got happening soon.
maybe go 10W as well?.. hmmm

[VeYzZii]

does it matter how many kms are on your engine when picking an oil. my next service is coming up and that will be 130,000km on the clock
Definantly matters man. The older the car gets you wanna put a bit thicker oil.. if i where you i would go with a 15W..

I think if the engine is well maintained, you could just stay standard oil that you have been using the whole time.
But if it wasnt as well maintained, something like 10W-40 would be good?

atm, I am using Castrol 5W-30, but I might change it up for this 100K service I got happening soon.
maybe go 10W as well?.. hmmm

Dammmnn 5W?? Risky for 100km on the clock imo..

[dlai5552]

I've been using 5W-30 in my DC5R which has 138,000kms. it works fine :S
so yeah lol.
but I do consider changing.

[greek_rambos2k]

well i was running castrol 5w30 when i first got it. ran really well but burnt oil fast. now on honda oil. i found that on the 5w30 i got better fuel economy. dunno why my driving style hasnt changed. done 4000km on the honda oil now and it says its still full

[na-118]

Nothing but.manufacturers.specs

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

[greek_rambos2k]

^^^ lol i miss the spacebar when typing on my galaxy s too :P

[greek_rambos2k]

so how does thinner oil effect an older engine? like why do you need to run 40 rather then 30. just wondering

[mao]

Guys,

I have gone from Mobil 1 to Shell Helix Ultra and the oil burns quickloy esp when you high rev the car. A lot of people who do not high rev the car have said that their oil level is fine. I have changed to Cusco 5W-40 and it doesnt burn as much anymore esp when you freq high rev the car.

[sae]

You've got to keep in mind that most engines don't rev to 9000 like ours. It puts a lot of strain on the engine and that's why burning oil is a common trait among s2000's. The solution is quite simple really, if you plan on using a thinner cheaper oil, don't rev it high. Otherwise, use some good quality thicker oil. I use royal purple 10W40, it went from the 'middle' mark down a quarter between 'low and middle' after 5000 km's with pretty hard driving and one track day. Like people have mentioned above, solid changing intervals and the engine will last.

[dlai5552]

I'm considering trying Royal Purple 10W-40. All this talk about Royal Purple, so I thought I might try it... however, still a bit indecisive on whether I should go 10W-40 or 5W-30.
Engine runs good and the Honda Oil in at the moment is only 5W.... even though it's coming up to 100Km's, I might stick with 5w-30, or does anyone want to debate?

[mao]

SAE has hit the nail on the head! Spot on mate!

Guys please do not rev to 9000rpm, you achieve your max power and torque at around the 7000rpm mark!

Please use 5W-30 or 5@-40 if your engine compression is still good. Use 10W-40 for engines that are worn.

No point debating. Have tested the S2000 on my dyno and the power difference is there using a proper PAO 5W oil like Cusco 5W-40. I don't know much about Royal Purple as I have not used it but as long as it is 100% PAO, I will say give it a shot.

Currently have a S2k in my workshop that spun a bearing and worn piston rings. Hint hint: car has never skipped a Honda Schedule service and he brings his own Mobil 1 in for service at Honda. Please don't ask why? SAE has already answered.

[AusS2000]

Guys please do not rev to 9000rpm, you achieve your max power and torque at around the 7000rpm mark!

Max power is at 8300 and to be around 8300 when you change up a gear you need to be at 9000 before change.

This car was designed to rev and rev it does. If you don't want to rev to 9000 rpm perhaps you'd be more happy in a Hyundai.

[AusS2000]

Please use 5W-30 or 5@-40 if your engine compression is still good. Use 10W-40 for engines that are worn.


Mao, you're an automotive professional right? Care to explain what the number before the w is?

Here's a little help if you're having trouble with it:
http://www.funtrivia.com/askft/Question33842.html

And a bit more trivia for you. 0 degrees F is -18 degrees C. When is the last time it was -18 degrees over your way?

[ncmx5]

LOL. I use Repco 20w-50 with the bonus oil filter for $19.99. Bargain! Still runs a charm.

[AusS2000]

Hey, that is what I use.... in my 94 Falcon ute. I'd never use something that thick in my Honda.

[greek_rambos2k]

LOL. I use Repco 20w-50 with the bonus oil filter for $19.99. Bargain! Still runs a charm.

wow id never do that...s2000s weren't meant to be cheaped out on

[dlai5552]

Mao, you're an automotive professional right? Care to explain what the number before the w is?

Here's a little help if you're having trouble with it:
http://www.funtrivia.com/askft/Question33842.html

And a bit more trivia for you. 0 degrees F is -18 degrees C. When is the last time it was -18 degrees over your way?

I was told that the W "stands" for winter, and the 5W is better for colder areas in the world where it gets to like snowing stages, while 10W is good for our country because it's never that cold lol.

In other news, I bought 10W-40 Royal Purple today for $90. This shit better work haha :)

[ludecrs]

Hey, that is what I use.... in my 94 Falcon ute. I'd never use something that thick in my Honda.

I use 10-60 :p

[AusS2000]

The W does stand for winter and the number before it is the viscosity at -18 degrees Celcius. Therefore it is totally irrelevant to us in Australia. Only the second number is important.

[drsilliez]

Even I know That and I am not a mechanic. I hope that the mechanics I take my car too knows it as well, if not, I'll question their qualifications......

[VeYzZii]

The W does stand for winter and the number before it is the viscosity at -18 degrees Celcius. Therefore it is totally irrelevant to us in Australia. Only the second number is important.

Your right AUS, but viscosity VS temp is linear.. So it might not matter what it is at -18 deg Celcius, but it does matter at lets say 10 - 15 degrees (normal morning in Australia). So if viscosity of W is lets say 5 for oil X and 10 for oil Y but both oils have the same high temp viscosity, wouldnt there be a difference in the oil viscosity on start up??

[ncmx5]

There is a technically a difference in viscosity at start up between 5 and 10, but in reality the difference in the flow profiles between the viscosities for Australian temperatures is insignificant to warrant much debate.

So to keep it simple, Xw-Y

X is the viscosity at start up - COLD
Y is viscosity under operating temperature (measured at 100 deg)

So unless you live in freezing cold climates or rev the crap out of your car when you start it up, you can run between 5-15w with nil problems - it's only valid for initial start up.

Once the engine is warm or at operating temp, value Y is the important one - higher Y = more viscous. If it's too low, it's too thin and if you're racing or something... you might not get enough lubrication leading to wear. Having a heavier oil is better for lubrication, but I believe it may impinge on fuel consumption and it may damage the oil pump as more viscous oil requires more pressure to push through thus again, consuming more power to pump.

[greek_rambos2k]

just got a bottle of mobil 1 5w30. lets see how it goessss

[s2kjn]

I use 10-60 :p

Funny that. I just came back from lunch now and had this on the bench at the auto shop ready to pay for this after this guy was recommending me to get this with his life. Just before I was about to pay, a bloke said that he used to work for Honda and that they ALWAYS used 5w30! and I explained to him that I have used it 3 times in the past and have always seen my oil level drop. So I was now even more confused than ever. I dedcided to try out Nulon Fully Synthetic 10W40 and see how that goes.

[AusS2000]

Your right AUS, but viscosity VS temp is linear..

No it ain't. At least not in the 'Friction Modified' oils made for the last 40 years. How else do you explain the numbers on oil containers? 10w30 means the oil is more viscous (thicker) at 100 degrees than it is at -18.

[AusS2000]

S2kjn - good choice. There is no way in he'll I'd use molasses like 60 weight oil in my car.

[s2kjn]

Was so closo to getting it as well! lol

[string]

-nuked-

[jrstyles]

Motul 8100 XCESS "4lyfe!" hehe

[Hasbeen]

I find Penrite HPR 30, a 20W-60 works beautifully in my old Triumph TR

I don't think anything reving very high would find it to it's liking.

[garett]

I find Penrite HPR 30, a 20W-60 works beautifully in my old Triumph TR

I don't think anything reving very high would find it to it's liking.

wouldn't put that near the F20!!

[Hasbeen]

I agree completely garett, that's why I said it was unsuitable for anything high revving.

I have a highly tuned, [300+ BHP] TR8, with all forged gear in one of the last 4.6L Rover V8. These are very dirty engines, with a habit of filling themselves up with carbon. Rocker covers can be caked with the stuff in just 15,000Km.
I use Penrite HPR 10 diesel in it, a highly detergent 5W30 synthetic. This would be more suitable for the Honda, although I'm using Honda oil at present.

[garett]

There is an insane TR8 which i see in GT sportscars class still running the rover V8
and he sticks with GT3's!!

so says alot for the engine despite the carbon.

Penrite oils are good, and suited for Australian conditions. If they did one more compatible with my s2000 id highly consider it.

[Hasbeen]

I don't know how old you are garett, but perhaps you are too young to know that the World championship Repco engine, in the Brabham Repco were using that block.

I had a very happy year driving around in front of one in a Brabham BT 23. Accidently pulled 11700 RPM in it when I tried going flat over the second hump, [before the chase was added] down Conrod, in practice. The thing took off & hit those revs. No rev limiter in those days. It didn't mind, & continued on much less perturbed than I was.

It was red lined at 9700, a bit like driving a Honda actually.

Of course the Honda sports car of the day was the S600, & they hit 11000 from memory

[JN7]

sooo ummm.... i'm on 140xxxkm...
what oil to use? motul or nulon?

[AusS2000]

They're both good brands. Just go for 30 or 40 weight.

[gumus89]

They're both good brands. Just go for 30 or 40 weight.

No offense, but from your posts you dont actually know how oils work.

Oils are much thinner when hot. When modifiers are used, you get the two numbers. Otherwise you would only get an oil with one number.
The first number is the rating that describes the oil at -18 celsius BUT it is also used to describe typical thicknesses at starting temperature. The lower the thinner.
Ideally, oil would be the right thickness at both start up and operating temperature, currently all oils are too thick for optimum protection at start up.
So the best thing you can do is get the lowest first number (0W for example) and the right second number to get the correct oil pressure at operating temps.
Unfortunately, oils that are thin will slip past piston rings, but going to a thicker oil will increase wear along with save oil burn.
I for one would rather have the protection :D

[AusS2000]

Then I'm guessing you haven't read many of my posts. I am very familiar with the nomenclature behind friction modified oils.

Are you inferring that I was suggesting a non-FM oil of 30 or 40 weight? Can you even buy such a thing in this day and age?

Just to clarify for the dummies, I was suggesting an Xw30 or Xw40 oil. I expect the options available from Nulon and Motul will have an X in the range of 0 to 10, but as gumus so eloquently mentioned this is the viscosity at -18 degrees C. I'm guessing that our starting temperatures will be at least 30 degrees above this level and therefore it has very little relevance so 0, 5, 10 it really don't matter.

[gumus89]

I was referring to the posts numbered 141 and 135. They are completely wrong.

Oil is certainly not thicker at operating temp and the first number is very relevant.

[AusS2000]

Then please explain what the two numbers either side of the w mean. Is it not true that the higher the number the more resistance to flow (internal friction or viscosity) hence using 20w50 in older low revving engines?

My understanding is that simple fluids decrease viscosity (get thinner) with temperature fairly linearly. Hence traditional oils have a single viscosity number. Friction modifiers were introduced as a clever way of reversing this trend for a range of the temperature. Ah the wonders of modern science.

Happy to be re-educated.

[vtec23Q]

Motul 8100 series is the way to go :-)

[JN7]

got a 6L of nulon 10w-40 for 60$.. supercheap had 5L for the same price so why not!

also went to Honda and got some mtf-06 for when I get my new clutch fitted

[aaronng]

Oils get thinner as they get warmer. The numbers in the viscosity rating is not an absolute viscosity measurement. They are relative to the standard single SAE rated viscosity oil.

So a 5w-40 for example means that at -18ºC, the oil has the same viscosity as an SAE5 oil at -18ºC. It also means that at 100ºC, it has the same viscosity as a SAE40 oil at 100ºC. This is why the 5w-40 is called a multigrade oil.

If you take the oil spec sheet of any engine oil, it will tell you that. For example, here is the spec sheet for Motul's 8100 5w-40 oil. http://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/52/8100%20X-cess%205W40_GB.pdf

If you look at the viscosities measured at 40ºC and 100ºC, the 40ºC viscosity is already much much thicker than the viscosity at 100ºC. If you were to compare the -18ºC value (which is not mentioned in the spec sheet), that would be even thicker still.

[gumus89]

Then please explain what the two numbers either side of the w mean. Is it not true that the higher the number the more resistance to flow (internal friction or viscosity) hence using 20w50 in older low revving engines?

My understanding is that simple fluids decrease viscosity (get thinner) with temperature fairly linearly. Hence traditional oils have a single viscosity number. Friction modifiers were introduced as a clever way of reversing this trend for a range of the temperature. Ah the wonders of modern science.

Happy to be re-educated.

The W signifies that the preceeding number is the cold specification of the oil. The second number is hot grade.
They are not directly referring to viscosity although you can compare first and second numbers between oils. as in 5W-30 and 10W-30 have the same viscosity at high temp but the 10W is thicker at start up.
aaronng explains better.

[AusS2000]

Thanks for clearing that up. I learn something new everyday.

[NES52K]

I use Royal Purple 5W30 Fully synthetic oil, pretty pricey but great oil.

[dlai5552]

Royal Purple 10W - 40

[dlai5552]

Hey guys, I'm looking at trying another brand of oil, because I'm over paying $90 for oil lol.

Thinking about Fully Synthetic:
- Mobil 1
- Nulon

both around 10w-30/40 whatever they come in. Any reccommendations on which one to choose over the other???

[Hasbeen]

I'd have a look at Penrite HPR 5, which is a 5W-30 specially developed for modern variable valve timing engines.

Penrite do formulate good oils.

[s2kjn]

Ive used Nulon 10w-40 for my last oil change a couple on months ago. Great oil, just bought another 6L bottle two days ago. Has anyone ever used Wynns Engine Flush? I know a few mechanics use this to rid the gunk build up in the engine. Wondering if it would do any damage to ours...

[Hasbeen]

I use a highly detergent diesel oil to flush out my ordinary engines. I usually run it for a thousand Km or so.

I have a highly tuned 4.6L rover V8 in a TR8. These are rather dirty engines which get a lot of carbon residue in their oil. I had been using Penrite HPR 5 in it, [5W-30high performance] & was happy with it, apart from the carbon on the inside of the rocker cover.

Penrite suggested HPR diesel 5, which is basically the same oil, with only more highly detergent.
After a couple of changes of that, you could use the rocker cover to shave, it's that clean.

I'd rather use a quality oil to flush my high performance engine, than something else, but that's possibly just me being paranoid.

[s2kjn]

So would there be any harm in just using the Wynns engine flush product?

[s2kjn]

A dlai, Ive also used mobile 1 and found that it burnt quite quickly. Same with a few other users too. Nulon does seem to last longer though. However, I do an oil change every 3 mths/2500k's anyways because I have nothing but time..lol

[jooboo]

What diff and trans oil you guys using?

[dlai5552]

Jooboo, for transmission I'm using honda MTF because my gearbox still feels pretty good. But I'm going with castrol saf-xa for the diff again, because I used it first my 4.77FD was quiet, changed to OEM after 1000kms and it started whining like crazy.

[sae]

royal purple for the engine, went to hanny's and they replaced my diff with elf. My tranny has redline and it works a charm

[NSPYRE]

So would there be any harm in just using the Wynns engine flush product?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgxZKbkaD24

Skip to 20:45

Take from that what you will, but it has definately put me off even thinking about using these kinds of products.

[s2kjn]

Interesting..

[Newtype]

So after reading ABSOULUTLY EVERYTHING, ive come to the conclusion as a noob poster that these following are the ones too look out for:

- Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40
- Mobile 1 10-30
- Nulon 10w-40
- Royal Purple 10w-40

Gonna buy some oil tomorrow, anyone wanna rank which ones better?

[dlai5552]

After all the bitching I've had, I'm just gonna stick with Royal Purple 10W-40, because it serves me well! My car barely burns it out/off (whatevs lol). Also I found it for cheaper than my usual.

[Bludger]

As the recommended viscosity of oil is roughly 10w-30.

Do people here sway more to 10w-40 during summer when it can get up to 40 degrees at times

[sae]

It doesn't really matter. Buy based upon your engine. If it is burning then thicker viscosity. Whatever works for you!

[garett]

So after reading ABSOULUTLY EVERYTHING, ive come to the conclusion as a noob poster that these following are the ones too look out for:

- Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40
- Mobile 1 10-30
- Nulon 10w-40
- Royal Purple 10w-40

Gonna buy some oil tomorrow, anyone wanna rank which ones better?

also depends on your budget, royal, motul and mobil are all over $80 where the Nulon is like $35
im trying a different one until I find one which suits. I have run;

•*Honda FEO 10w 30 - need to top up each 2500km interval
•*Castrol Gold synthetic 0w 40 - better but top up around 3500kms
•*going to try Mobil 1 0w 40 next time

[doosra]

Quick question.. I just serviced my car and use Castrol Edge Sports 5-30w, however Castrol don't stock Sports anymore so it's no Castrol Edge Titanium 5-30w. Do you think it would be okay to top up with Castrol Edge Titanium?

[NSPYRE]

Don't see a problem in doing that..? I did it to both my DC2 Integra and E92 BMW. Works out well when both cars use the same viscosity :D

[doosra]

Cool.. thanks.. the new Castrol Titanium is bloody expensive though.. $70 for 5L.. both the Sports and Titanium have "fully synthetic" labeled on the bottles as well so I assume it would be ok.

[NSPYRE]

Yeah, I guess its cause the titanium now has the shiny new labelling that says its BMW Longlife-01 approved, hehe

[antithesis]

I use genuine Honda FEO Synth, seems to be fine.