Spring Compressor Question

[Zilli]

Hey all,

Just some advice on Spring compressors,

Can i slip them onto the spring then use a rattle gun to tighteen and compress the springs?

Is there anyhting i need to know here fellas? safety wise?

As far as i know then i undo the top of th strut, take the spring out and swap in the original ITR springs yeh?

[95civic]

You just want to be careful that the top nut does not fly off and hit you or something that it can damage.



Tip** Before you remove the spring, line up the top and bottom of the strut. (possibly mark them in a straight line?) Once the spring is in you cant turn it around if they are not alighned. I got caught out with this and the only way to turn it around it to compress the springs again.

[bennjamin]

dont use a rattle gun , this will prematurely wear the spring compressor itself. IE high torque
Just use a ratchet-spanner and whisk the ends tight from there.

Once both sides of the spring are compressed ( IE the spring will be able to move uncaptive inside teh shock) then you can undo the top. You need a allen key to hold the top piston , and use a 14mm open end spanner to slowly undo the top mount.

[95civic]

Sorry my bad, lazy way out!!!

[bennjamin]

Sorry my bad, lazy way out!!!

i learnt not to be lazy with cars along time ago - watched a mate undo a stock shock with a impact gun and it blew off into his shin. Ouchies :)

Dont do the lazy way guys !

[95civic]

wat part blew off? The end nut??

[bennjamin]

no. The opposite end of the shock (fork/spring/shock etc) into his shin. Funny then not funny as he had a chunk taken out and a bunch of blood lol.
Be careful guys :)

[95civic]

Im not having a go at anyone, but why would you stand at either end of the shock/spring when your removing the nut??

[bennjamin]

he was holding it against his leg and using a gun to take it off. Not smart at all.
You need to get the spring held and loose in the shock before attempting to loosen / take off the top nut. This way it wont "shoot off" and hit anything :)

[Zilli]

dont use a rattle gun , this will prematurely wear the spring compressor itself. IE high torque
Just use a ratchet-spanner and whisk the ends tight from there.

Once both sides of the spring are compressed ( IE the spring will be able to move uncaptive inside teh shock) then you can undo the top. You need a allen key to hold the top piston , and use a 14mm open end spanner to slowly undo the top mount.

thank Ben, im not so sure what you mean by holding the top piston... im sure ill work it out

[jasonb]

the top piston is the bolt that comes through the top housing on the strut ,,its actually the top of the shocky bolt in the centre

[dsp26]

yep don't use rattle gun...

i did and now one of the actual compressors has a bent shaft... and i was doing the whole thing evenly too.. don't know why it happend.... i ended up using an adjustable spanner as it was the only other thing i had to spin it lol

[jasonb]

mate if the shaft bent the commpressors cant be real good quality ,,,,i bought a set at k mart bout 20 years ago and im still using them ,,,,i only used them the other day too change all the springs in the missus crv to heavy duty 2 inch raised ones ,i used the rattle gun ,,,i know im naughty,but i never bent nothin,,,,as i said the ones you have cant be real good ,,,so be careful

[BlitZ]

btw guys..
what type of compressor u guys using.. I find the generic compressors have issues with the honda springs as they are too small

[dsp26]

jasonb: that's posibly true, it was the $38 set from supercheap

BlitZ: also a good point because the supercheap set don't really fit on the stockers properly while in pre-compressed state in the shock coz their bulky

[bennjamin]

yep don't use rattle gun...

i did and now one of the actual compressors has a bent shaft... and i was doing the whole thing evenly too.. don't know why it happend.... i ended up using an adjustable spanner as it was the only other thing i had to spin it lol

yup yup - the cheaper ones ( usually BLACK thread with SILVER clamps) from super cheap etc are shite. You will see the middles bow after a few goes.
I tend to use a electric impact gun in short bursts , does it without much pressure.I also use some homemade high tensile compressors from ages ago too

[dsp26]

yup yup - the cheaper ones ( usually BLACK thread with SILVER clamps) from super cheap etc are shite. You will see the middles bow after a few goes.
I tend to use a electric impact gun in short bursts , does it without much pressure.I also use some homemade high tensile compressors from ages ago too

please elaborate.. wouldn't mind making a better set for hopefully cheaper than the $38 i paid for the exact ones you described :p

[bennjamin]

didnt make myself oh gosh no , they are from some enginneer , made with CAD and the machining mill. Good luck finding a decent set , my next investment is a vertical standing spring compressor ~ 3 pushes with ur foot and it compressors :)

[Zilli]

you know what you guys are right, i got the supercheap ones, and did it with a wrench by hand, the shaft started to bend, and also, it was very hard to get both of the side of the clamp on the spring, with enough speperation to compress enough because the end of the clamp were too bulky like Ben said. The spacee between the spring at the cchock body is too small, and also the diameter of the spring is too narrow so both sides of the end clamp dont go on...

bit of a pain in the arse, dunno what to do now

[aaronng]

On the bright side, you can return the spring compressors back to supercheap and get your money back because they bent even when you used it correctly.

[qikteg]

so wats the go with a good brand..? supercheap are rubbish... does that mean repco/autobarn/autoone would be of similar quality?

[bennjamin]

here is a cheap spring compressor

http://articles.mbz.org/misc/compressor/spring_compressor2.jpg

here is a good/expensive spring compressor

http://www.tradequip.co.nz/products/images/TQ1033.jpg

[Zilli]

well thaat looks way to expensive for someone who will change springs once a year dude... any other options?

[JohnL]

yup yup - the cheaper ones ( usually BLACK thread with SILVER clamps) from super cheap etc are shite. You will see the middles bow after a few goes.
I tend to use a electric impact gun in short bursts , does it without much pressure.I also use some homemade high tensile compressors from ages ago too

I think mine are the same ones. You're right they don't fit the Honda springs properly (not safe!), but I modified mine with an angle grinder until they did, they work fine now!

The 'bolt' does 'bend', but really it's only flexing, I seriously doubt it's a problem. If, on the other hand, you ever find the bolt becomes permanently bent then I think it would be a bit of a worry...

I personally wouldn't use an impact wrench, a bit hard on the compressors. How much time does it save, a couple of minutes at the outside?! Especially if you do insist on using an impact wrench (but even if you don't), make sure the compressor's threads (and under the 'bolt' heads) are well greased!

[bennjamin]

well thaat looks way to expensive for someone who will change springs once a year dude... any other options?
pay someone to do it lol ?
I think you are stuck with the super cheap ones. there isnt much inbetween. Just use once , and return if they start to bow. Then wait a year and do it all over again

JohnL , i would be worried if the bolt is flexing at any point , as this is weakening the metal every time.
I use a impact gun , its electric and low torque but mostly because im lazy to sit there with a small spanner or ratchet.Yup always grease up any moving parts like these guys

[aaronng]

so wats the go with a good brand..? supercheap are rubbish... does that mean repco/autobarn/autoone would be of similar quality?

Go to Bursons or Total Tools.

[JohnL]

pay someone to do it lol ?
JohnL , i would be worried if the bolt is flexing at any point , as this is weakening the metal every time.
I use a impact gun , its electric and low torque but mostly because im lazy to sit there with a small spanner or ratchet.Yup always grease up any moving parts like these guys

If the 'bolt' flexes then it's not 'good', but its not necessarily bad either, depends on what the 'bolt' is made from and where it's elastic limit lies. If the bolt is made from rubbish steel then its a potential problem, but with a reasonable quality steel you would need to 'flex' it thousands of times to cause metal fatigue. I've yet to have any inkling that the bolts on my compressors are not coping, despite the flex. Having said this, the bolts on mine don't flex as much as the ones in the photo seems to be.

Electic and low torque, probably fine then. On the other hand fast and high torque driven by a compressor, probably not the best idea!

[Zilli]

[QUOTE=bennjamin;1453568]pay someone to do it lol ?
I think you are stuck with the super cheap ones. there isnt much inbetween. Just use once , and return if they start to bow. Then wait a year and do it all over again

Can you recommend someone who will do it Ben??? :p

[bennjamin]

a few guys on here that will do it :) myself included. You can even touch my spring compressors if thats that floats your boat lol. Anyway thats off topic so pm me if u must.

Otherwise - what other spring compressors (non-super cheap auto) ones are people using ? Anyone tried the better brands from total-tools etc ?

[jasonb]

i bought some new ones from bursons the other day ,,,they seem good there twice as long and cost $120.00 so they better be good

[dsp26]

a few guys on here that will do it :) myself included. You can even touch my spring compressors if thats that floats your boat lol. Anyway thats off topic so pm me if u must.

Otherwise - what other spring compressors (non-super cheap auto) ones are people using ? Anyone tried the better brands from total-tools etc ?

*cough* so um... do you rent out equipment? as in your fancy dick.... i mean foot pump ones *whistle whistle* :p

you know assuming the members are trustworthy enough to handle it, it could be income of sorts for you as most members would not need a compressor more than twice for the life/ownership of the vehicle to justify anything past the supercheap ones really.... i know you can do them but some memebrs maybe prefer DYI and if your the only one that has the magic pump... well... SIR!!!!

but yeah... exactly as Zilli said... i too could not clamp all 4 hooks on the first compressor.... you can however get on all 4 of the 2nd set after enough compression of the first set, at which point they'd probably start flexing from uneven pressure

***EDIT***
how come "dick" doesn't get word filtered???

Disclaimer: The following is for Testing purposes only... DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK DICK

[destrukshn]

dsp26: i jus took off yoru springs from the shocks 2 mins ago, using springs compressors, they were cheap, i've done over 10sets of shocks and springs on em, and they have no flexed on me once, and you know what, i've always used a impact gun.
and not issue as of yet.

[dsp26]

dsp26: i jus took off yoru springs from the shocks 2 mins ago, using springs compressors, they were cheap, i've done over 10sets of shocks and springs on em, and they have no flexed on me once, and you know what, i've always used a impact gun.
and not issue as of yet.

lol... headed over now... but i will admit that i will be doing the same thing with my supercheap ones this saturday when i install them hahaha :p

the pic that bennjamin posted is just quite enticing only having to press your foot several times.

[aaronng]

You do know that you don't have to compress every loop of spring. You can compress just 4-5 loops, as long as it is enough to relieve the tension against the upper mount.

[dsp26]

You do know that you don't have to compress every loop of spring. You can compress just 4-5 loops, as long as it is enough to relieve the tension against the upper mount.

yeah but it ain't as hard to MANUALLY wind the shaft when you do more coils... but i'm just a weakling :p

spring rates are stiffer when compressing less coils aren't they? or have i been wasting my time??

[aaronng]

yeah but it ain't as hard to MANUALLY wind the shaft when you do more coils... but i'm just a weakling :p
I do it manually using a ratchet.


spring rates are stiffer when compressing less coils aren't they? or have i been wasting my time??
You've been wasting your time. The more coils you have to compress, the stiffer it is.

[JohnL]

I do it manually using a ratchet.

I vote ratchet!



You've been wasting your time. The more coils you have to compress, the stiffer it is.

Maybe it's me who's been wasting my time(?!), seems you didn't quite believe me when I said (in another thread); all else being equal the less wire in the spring the stiffer the spring will be. So, if you compress more coils by X amount the less stiff it will be than if you compress fewer coils by X amount. Not only this, but you'll have to compress the spring to a lesser degree if you compress more coils because there are less coils outside the compressor to 'uncompress' (think about it!).

[JohnL]

You do know that you don't have to compress every loop of spring. You can compress just 4-5 loops, as long as it is enough to relieve the tension against the upper mount.

Agree entirely, even if it is stiffer this way!

[aaronng]

Maybe it's me who's been wasting my time(?!), seems you didn't quite believe me when I said (in another thread); all else being equal the less wire in the spring the stiffer the spring will be.

Yes, I agree that the fewer the coils in the WHOLE spring, the stiffer the wire, if you have 2 springs of the same rate, one with more coils and the other with less.



So, if you compress more coils by X amount the less stiff it will be than if you compress fewer coils by X amount.
Common sense says that if you compress say 8 coils of a spring rated at Y kg/mm (for the whole spring) by X amount, it is stiffer than compressing 4 coils of the same spring by the same amount because the material is the same, but the number of coils bound is halved. The spring rate for suspension springs is given for the whole spring. If only part of the coils are bound, then the spring rate of the bound coils is changed from the original rate. This is also the reason why cut springs are illegal, because the spring rate is reduced.


Not only this, but you'll have to compress the spring to a lesser degree if you compress more coils because there are less coils outside the compressor to 'uncompress' (think about it!).
Yes, you are right, you have to compress the spring more because there are fewer coils that are being compressed. But then again, your spring compressor is rated by spring rate that it can handle, not the amount compressed. Your spring compressor will "survive" longer if you compressed fewer coils by a larger amount than if you compressed more coils (and thus higher spring rate) by a lesser amount. If the material used in the screw compressor can't handle the higher spring rate, it flexes and bends.

[JohnL]

Yes, I agree that the fewer the coils in the WHOLE spring, the stiffer the wire, if you have 2 springs of the same rate, one with more coils and the other with less.

The number of coils has nothing to do with wire stiffness, at least not wire stiffness over X length of wire. It does affect how stiff the spring is because it affects how much wire is in the spring, with more coils = to more wire length. If we add more wire (more coils, or larger diameter coils) then the spring becomes softer, if we take wire out then the spring becomes stiffer (this is fundamental to understanding this discussion!). More material does not equate to more stiffness, except in the case of increasing wire diameter.

As far as the compressor ‘knows’, it can’t ‘tell’ whether it’s compressing (by X amount) the whole spring or only part of the spring. All it ‘sees’ is whatever is between it’s jaws and the force required to compress it by X. If there are fewer coils between it’s jaws then it will ‘see’ a stiffer spring, regardless of how many coils may or may not be outside it’s jaws. If there are more coils between it’s jaws then it will ‘see’ a softer spring.



Common sense says that if you compress say 8 coils of a spring rated at Y kg/mm (for the whole spring) by X amount, it is stiffer than compressing 4 coils of the same spring by the same amount because the material is the same, but the number of coils bound is halved. .

‘Common sense’ is a very variable, unreliable and dangerous thing (despite what some right wing politicians may like you to think!). What is common sense? I'd suggest it's a conclusion arrived at based upon what on the surface appears to be simplistically obvious, but not arrived at with the benefit of any significant rigorous examination of the complexities involved...

It’s precisely because the amount of material (spring wire) is lessened that compressing fewer coils by X requires more force than compressing more coils by X. Sure, when you compress all the coils you are compressing more material (i.e. twisting more wire), but you are compressing it to a lesser degree per unit length of wire (i.e. twisting more wire less). When you compress fewer coils by X you must twist less wire more, and this is why more force is required.

Keep in mind that a coil spring is in effect merely a coiled up torsion bar, and a shorter torsion bar is stiffer than a longer torsion bar all else being equal (i.e. wire diameter). If you compress the whole spring just enough to free it from the seat (i.e. X amount) then this will take a lot less force than if you compress only half the spring by X. This is simply because you are compressing less of the spring to X.

In fact, compared to compressing more or the whole spring, if you compress only half the spring (or so) until the spring frees from the seat you will need to compress that half of the spring even more (i.e. more than X) to free it from the seat, and more force still is required. This is because those parts of the spring that are not 'inside' the compressor will uncompress as preload is taken off, thus you will be shortening the part of the spring that is inside the compressor but those parts outside the compressor are simultaneously becoming longer, working against what you're attempting to do (so you need to compress the ‘compressed half’ more with more force required).


The spring rate for suspension springs is given for the whole spring. If only part of the coils are bound, then the spring rate of the bound coils is changed from the original rate. This is also the reason why cut springs are illegal, because the spring rate is reduced.

We've covered this ground before in another thread. Cut springs are NOT softer (i.e. their spring rate is not reduced), cut springs are stiffer! Thought we’d cleared up this common misconception?!

The reasons why it’s illegal to cut stock springs are that the resulting increase in stiffness is unlikely be enough to compensate for the drop in ride height, so there is increased likelihood of the suspension bottoming out (which causes significant handling issues), there’s a good chance that the spring will become loose (lose all preload and ‘float’) at full droop, and there might be issues with the manner in which the spring sits in the seat itself, possibly leading to failure.

It makes no difference whether we're talking about spring stiffness as 'seen' by the chassis etc, or spring stiffness as seen by a spring compressor, fewer coils means less wire and a stiffer spring.



Yes, you are right, you have to compress the spring more because there are fewer coils that are being compressed. But then again, your spring compressor is rated by spring rate that it can handle, not the amount compressed. Your spring compressor will "survive" longer if you compressed fewer coils by a larger amount than if you compressed more coils (and thus higher spring rate) by a lesser amount. If the material used in the screw compressor can't handle the higher spring rate, it flexes and bends.

Well, I agree that the compressor will of course be “rated” by how strong it is, that it will fail if you overload it , and that if you compress fewer coils you will have to compress the spring more (more than X), but the rest of your paragraph is in error!

[Zilli]

so whose going to get my springs off and put my ITR ones on for a case fo crownies?

[aaronng]

The number of coils has nothing to do with wire stiffness, at least not wire stiffness over X length of wire. It does affect how stiff the spring is because it affects how much wire is in the spring, with more coils = to more wire length. If we add more wire (more coils, or larger diameter coils) then the spring becomes softer, if we take wire out then the spring becomes stiffer (this is fundamental to understanding this discussion!). More material does not equate to more stiffness, except in the case of increasing wire diameter.
Ahh, I see. I think what you are trying to say is that the coils are compressed less if you have fewer coils. What I am trying to say is that if I have 2 springs, both of the same length and same overall spring rate but one with fewer coils, then the one with the fewer coils is made of a stiffer material.



‘Common sense’ is a very variable, unreliable and dangerous thing (despite what some right wing politicians may like you to think!). What is common sense? I'd suggest it's a conclusion arrived at based upon what on the surface appears to be simplistically obvious, but not arrived at with the benefit of any significant rigorous examination of the complexities involved...

It’s precisely because the amount of material (spring wire) is lessened that compressing fewer coils by X requires more force than compressing more coils by X. Sure, when you compress all the coils you are compressing more material (i.e. twisting more wire), but you are compressing it to a lesser degree per unit length of wire (i.e. twisting more wire less). When you compress fewer coils by X you must twist less wire more, and this is why more force is required.
I see, I was thinking in terms of spring rate, while you are thinking in terms of spring deflection. I see my mistake. So fewer coils deflect less for the same amount of force and hence are considered to have a higher spring rate.

[JohnL]

Ahh, I see. I think what you are trying to say is that the coils are compressed less if you have fewer coils.

For a given load (X chassis weight, or X compressor tension), no. All else being equal; for a given load, with fewer coils each individual coil will be compressed more, but the spring as whole will be compressed less. Hard to see?

Lets make an extreme hypothetical example; imagine a spring with 10 coils. Now imagine another spring with only two coils. Both springs are the same length and the same wire diameter, but the one with 10 coils is much softer. When we place X load on each spring, the softer 10 coil spring will deflect more, but each coil in it will individually compress less than each coil in the two coil spring.

This is because each coil in the 10 coil spring is a shorter section of wire than each coil in the 2 coil spring, therefore each coil in the 10 coil spring is individually stiffer than each coil in the 2 coil spring. Despite the individual coils in the 10 coil spring being stiffer, there are more of them to deflect (each being subject to X load), so overall it adds up to a softer spring than the 2 coil spring. Each coil in the 2 coil spring is softer than in the 10 coil spring, so each coil will deflect more than each coil in the 10 coil spring, but there are less of them to deflect (each coil being subject X load), so overall it adds up to a stiffer spring than the 10 coil spring.

I'm still not sure if this is all that easy to follow, its certainly not easy to explain!



What I am trying to say is that if I have 2 springs, both of the same length and same overall spring rate but one with fewer coils, then the one with the fewer coils is made of a stiffer material.

No, no, no! If you have two springs the same length (spring height) and same rate, but one with fewer coils, then the two springs must be made from wire of different diameter (wire thickness not coil diameter). That's a clumsy way to express the concept, but I'm following on from your example trying to be consistent. I'll explain it again a different e.g., but before I do we need to understand the next paragraph.

So long as its steel, the spring material (steel alloy no matter how heat treated) is irrelevant to the spring rate. The difference in elastic stiffness between any two different steels in any state of heat treatment that you will ever find in a spring on any car will be less than 1%. Nothing about spring rates will really make sense until this is understood, unless you were assuming that any two springs being compared had the same steel, whereas in reality it makes no real difference whether they do or don't have the same steel, except as a predictor of which spring will fail sooner (i.e. sag or break).

If you have two springs that are the same height, same wire diameter, but one with fewer coils then there is less wire length in the spring with fewer coils, and the spring with less wire length will be stiffer (i.e. the one with fewer coils). The only way to increase the rate of a spring by adding material is to increase the wire diameter, any other addition of material (i.e. increasing wire length) will reduce rate.


I see, I was thinking in terms of spring rate, while you are thinking in terms of spring deflection. I see my mistake.

Rate and deflection per unit of force applied to the spring are really the same thing.


So fewer coils deflect less for the same amount of force and hence are considered to have a higher spring rate.

Correct! With fewer coils the spring is stiffer, therefore the rate is higher.

[aaronng]

For a given load (X chassis weight, or X compressor tension), no. All else being equal; for a given load, with fewer coils each individual coil will be compressed more, but the spring as whole will be compressed less. Hard to see?
That's what I said in my first line. I should have said "spring" instead of "coils" and I was talking about all the coils, not the individual coil. The second line was explaining what I was trying to describe in my previous post.


Lets make an extreme hypothetical example; imagine a spring with 10 coils. Now imagine another spring with only two coils. Both springs are the same length and the same wire diameter, but the one with 10 coils is much softer. When we place X load on each spring, the softer 10 coil spring will deflect more, but each coil in it will individually compress less than each coil in the two coil spring.

This is because each coil in the 10 coil spring is a shorter section of wire than each coil in the 2 coil spring, therefore each coil in the 10 coil spring is individually stiffer than each coil in the 2 coil spring. Despite the individual coils in the 10 coil spring being stiffer, there are more of them to deflect (each being subject to X load), so overall it adds up to a softer spring than the 2 coil spring. Each coil in the 2 coil spring is softer than in the 10 coil spring, so each coil will deflect more than each coil in the 10 coil spring, but there are less of them to deflect (each coil being subject X load), so overall it adds up to a stiffer spring than the 10 coil spring.
Yes, I understood this. What I was talking about is a different situation since I was maintaining the same spring rate, same length but fewer coils and stiffer (my error, I should have said thicker) wire.



No, no, no! If you have two springs the same length (spring height) and same rate, but one with fewer coils, then the two springs must be made from wire of different diameter (wire thickness not coil diameter). That's a clumsy way to express the concept, but I'm following on from your example trying to be consistent. I'll explain it again a different e.g., but before I do we need to understand the next paragraph.
You just repeated what I said. Same length, same rate, fewer coils, then one must be made of thicker wire.



Rate and deflection per unit of force applied to the spring are really the same thing.

They are actually the inverse of each other. That's why I initially thought that the spring would be softer, while you said it would be stiffer.

[JohnL]

aaronng sid:
That's what I said in my first line. I should have said "spring" instead of "coils" and I was talking about all the coils, not the individual coil. The second line was explaining what I was trying to describe in my previous post.

OK, I accept what you meant, but you did say “coils”!

You just repeated what I said. Same length, same rate, fewer coils, then one must be made of thicker wire.

I repeated much of what you said, but not exactly. You said: “if I have 2 springs, both of the same length and same overall spring rate but one with fewer coils, then the one with the fewer coils is made of a stiffer material.”

The words “stiffer material” are what I was disagreeing with. I now know that you meant stiffer because the wire is thicker, not because the wire is a different material, but you were not clear. Discussions of this technical nature depend heavily upon careful choice of words, the slightest carelessness in language can easily result in misunderstanding.

This discussion is actually fairly easy in this respect, try discussing weight transfer theory and the nature / behavior of roll centres for a minefield of misunderstandings, and concepts that at first seem simple , but on deeper investigation make your brain bleed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnL
Rate and deflection per unit of force applied to the spring are really the same thing.

They are actually the inverse of each other. That's why I initially thought that the spring would be softer, while you said it would be stiffer.

OK, we can say that a high spring rate = a low deflection per unit of force applied to the spring. In this sense you are correct that they are inverse. I plead guilty, I can be less than perfect in my choice of wording too! My meaning was more general.

[aaronng]

OK, we can say that a high spring rate = a low deflection per unit of force applied to the spring. In this sense you are correct that they are inverse. I plead guilty, I can be less than perfect in my choice of wording too! My meaning was more general.

I have learnt a lot from your posts in this thread, so I thank you for that. :thumbsup:

[bennjamin]

nice non-volatile discussion here.

In "general" you never need to compress the entire spring but only the mid section. More often because the spring compressor itself will only sit in this range ( say 20%-80% distance)

[JohnL]

nice non-volatile discussion here.)

Wot's it to you, buddy...!!


In "general" you never need to compress the entire spring but only the mid section. More often because the spring compressor itself will only sit in this range ( say 20%-80% distance)

Of course I agree, it's not practically possible to compress the whole spring, and would only make life minutely easier if it were! That's not really the point, it's just an excuse to discuss the nature of springs in order to learn something.

[bennjamin]

ehehe - not aimed at u son. Aimed at this website in general (Its common for things to get out of hand quickly with peoples opinions.)

If i get this standing compressor ill be sure to show everyone how it works (and ya'll can touch it)