Will there be a gap?

[beeza]

On an EK1 Sedan with:stock struts (90,000km)
King spring superlows (3,000)
And a 205/50/15 Rim/tyre
Thanks,
Brett.

[1996ek1]

On an EK1 Sedan with:stock struts (90,000km)

Think you mean stock shocks ;)

[beeza]

Damn,thought ya had an answer for me :)

[nd55]

> King spring superlows

There's a 50mm drop.

> And a 205/50/15 Rim/tyre

That's within 1% of OEM 175/65-R14 size.

Just go out and measure your fender gap.

subtract 50mm and viola!!!


> with stock struts (90,000km)

Chances are your OEM shocks are old and loose.

Kings (from memory) aren't a super stiff spring, but I forsee this being a bit bouncy.

Should be OK on good roads. Prepare excuses for your passengers on poor ones.

Nick.

[beeza]

Hahaha :)
I've already got 205/45/17's on there and it's been lowered on normal Kings....
I will go hunt for a stock civic :)

[nd55]

Hahaha :)
I've already got 205/45/17's on there and it's been lowered on normal Kings....
I will go hunt for a stock civic :)

Beeza, you got too much money.

[beeza]

None at all :(
But I'm Lovin' these Rims I found,then just need some decent Tyres.What do you think of the Good Year Eagle F1 Tyres/I read the older ones were made in Thailand and are shit quality..I can get a pair of the above specs for $60,80% tread.But they got no grooves down the tyre for the wet weather (rain).....
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/tyresvp0.jpg

Is what either that or a P&P job:
Before-
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/PPD16A6HeadB4somework-1.jpg

After-
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/PPafter-1.jpg

Need to research this more,to see if it's worth doing cause I can't change the cam on mine,d16y4.I think it would be good....
I mean hopefully it won't lose low/mid range and be all high end.

[blk_shadow]

with 15"rims on superlows, there will still be a gap. there's 2 finger gap on 16"

king spring is not bouncy. its not hard, and its still quite comfy on a bumpy roads

[beeza]

Is that with a 50 profile? What happens when you put a 60 profile.1 Finger gap?
Is there another cheap alternative? 2 or 1 finger is Ok but.

[blk_shadow]

Is that with a 50 profile? What happens when you put a 60 profile.1 Finger gap?
Is there another cheap alternative? 2 or 1 finger is Ok but.

yep, with 50 is 2 fingers gap, 60 should be around 1 finger gap.

[nd55]

> What do you think of the Good Year Eagle F1 Tyres/I read the older ones were made in
> Thailand

You talking Goodyear GS D3?

I think that topic's been covered to death here at Ozhonda.

The original's were a UTQG 280 silica tyre, made in Germany, which scored tops in a LOT of ratings.

The Thai version of the same tyre still had the same UTQG rating, but (I believe) was no longer a silica tyre. Lots of people come onto this and other bulletin boards and reporting poor results.

> and are shit quality

I don't think quality is the problem, more the compond is not as performance orientated as people read about.

I believe there may be a third version, again, made in Thailand.

The reason is I saw a pile of GS D3's tyre at Tyrepower, Haberfield (December 07) with the words "new improved" or something to that effect on the Goodyear sticker.

I chose to ignore Goodyear when I was tyre shopping recently, because I don't approve of the bait and switch tactics.

There's a lot of buz on Bridgestone 001's at the moment. UTQG 220, but the price keeps jumping.

I got quoted, (205/45 16 inch, Dec 07)
Thai GS D3 $175ish, UTQG 280
Bridgestone 001 $225, UTQG 220
Bridgestone 01 $275, UTQG 180 (I think)
Yokohama AD07 $245 UTQG 180.

I'd consider Kumho MX and Falken RT615 if I could get them in my size. Certain Falken have a reinforced sidewall and are the tyre of choice for autocross in the states.

Yokohama S drives get a few gongs in the tyre recommendation thread.

Most of the tyres listed would be more than OK. Falken & Kumho's for the price, but local availability sucks.

RE: Port & Polish.
> Need to research this more,to see if it's worth doing cause I can't change the cam on mine

I believe (in general street d16 terms) a valve job, and port matching are 80% of what a top notch P&P job achieves.

No need for a polish, it don't do anything. Remove any casting bumps, by all means, but leave the surface rough.

If you're really keen:

(From Endyn's web site D16 pages.)
* Under cut the valve stems (a bit!).
* widen the the bottom part of the port floor near the dividing wall, so instead of being round, it's more of a sideways 'D' shape.

Don't worry about the valve guides, most of the flow in that area is at the bottom.

For the same cash necessary to support the porting capabilities (intake, exhaust, cam etc), however, you could have dropped a non-vtec B18/B20 in.

Do like Toda here on ozhonda suggest, light flywheel (manual gearbox) and LSD.

Nick.

PS. This 'gap' thread has covered a bit of ground.

[beeza]

yep, with 50 is 2 fingers gap, 60 should be around 1 finger gap.

Sweet,cheers.Is there much of a noticeable difference between the 2. i.e. does a 60 profile look sh*t :D

Yeah so it's saying ya need a cam for a P&P.

[blk_shadow]

Sweet,cheers.Is there much of a noticeable difference between the 2. i.e. does a 60 profile look sh*t :D

Yeah so it's saying ya need a cam for a P&P.

actually, with 50, there will be 1-1 and a 1/2 gap, with 45 there will be 2.

don't go with 60 profile, 50 already look abit wrong lol

[beeza]

Sweet 50 it is! Cheers.