Help for un-screwing the bolt

[AusAccord]

try to install the tower bar this am and due to limited space to work on. teared and worn one of the suspension hex bolt by spanner. now unable to un-screw the bolt and pls help which tool for best to tackle it.

here are some pics:
http://i9.tinypic.com/71p3jpz.jpg
http://i8.tinypic.com/7xtpjs3.jpg
http://i7.tinypic.com/6uo9o3q.jpg

[JohnL]

If you can gain access, an angle grinder. If not then you might have to buy a 'nut splitter', which is sort of like one of those tubing cutters but with a sharp 'chisel / wedge' that is forced into the side of the nut by rotating a bolt. It splits and spreads the nut at the side, once split you can get it off pretty easily.

You could possibly split the nut with a cold chisel, but it's a brutal procedure that might damage the stud. An alternative is to rotate the nut with a cold chisel and hammer by placing the chisel point to the right side of one of the flats (i.e. at a point offset from the centre axis of the stud) and attempting to spin the nut off by hitting the chisel with the hammer. If the nut is very tight this probably won't work.

[Eclipsor]

Before destroying the nut/stud try vice grips and plenty of lube.

[shadou]

...farking hell how long did you try undoing it before you realized you've rounded the nut? I would take the trim off as you'll be needing the extra space to perform some of the suggested ideas above, don't need to but I would.
Can't think of anymore ideas to throw at you those 2 seem to have thrown them all out there, I would go vice grips first before the chisel and hammer option.
Good luck

[e240]

Vice Grip first

and in future, remember to always use a socket or the box end to minimise the change of rounding a nut.

[AusAccord]

tks all for the advice and will try vice grip first with plenty of WD40 then

[JohnL]

Before you try anything that might further damage the nut, I've thought of another couple of things you might try.

But first consider these questions; what condition was the socket in that you were using? Was it a cheap socket? Was it internally damaged? Did it fit snugly on the nut, or was it a bit loose? Was it internally six sided like an impact socket, or the type that grabs the nut only at the corners of the hex? Was it a metric socket or a nearly the same imperial (e.g. 9/16" instead of 14mm)?

Looking carefully at the remnants of your nut, it looks like you still have a bit of undamaged hex at the bottom of the nut. Now look at the open end of a socket, and you'll probably see that the internal 'flats' etc don't quite come all the way to the bottom of the socket. For a nut in that condition you need the internal flats of the socket to come all the way to the bottom ('bottom' being the open end).

Take a good socket (i.e. not stretched, damaged or loose on a good nut of the same size) that has six 'flats' internally like an impact socket, and carefully grind the open end until the flats come all the way to the bottom of the socket (the edges will now be sharp rather than rounded or angled into the socket opening), so that the flats have some chance of gripping the remaining undamaged portion of the nut. Place the modified socket on the nut, if it won't fit due the damage then persuade it with a hammer. Now carefully attempt to undo the nut.

If you're lucky it will come loose, but if it doesn't then I'd go to plan B. Plan B involves a different kind of socket, a specific brand called 'Metrinch'. These sockets don't grip the nut or bolt head by the corners of the hex, but apply pressure to the nut in the middle of the flats. They are designed to fit both metric and imperial, so come in sizes designated as being for say 1/2" and 13mm, or say 9/16" and 14mm.

I'm not trying to promote these sockets (also come in ring spanners etc), but I have found them useful occassionally for this sort of thing. For general work I find them a bit loose fitting and mildy annoying.

Good luck!

[SiReal]

use a single hex socket, the ones with the 6 sides only.

if u cant get that undone, use a vice grip (the ones you can fine tune and adjust). just get the nut off, and get a new one. cos this nut is a writeoff.

[aaronng]

Hope you sprayed a little bit of WD-40 before you tried to loosen it up.

[JohnL]

use a single hex socket, the ones with the 6 sides only.

As I suggested, but to give it the best chance the socket should be ground off flat at the base / bottom. Typically the internal 'flats' on sockets don't come all the way to the bottom / opening of the socket, but are in some manner rounded or angled inward at the opening before the 'flats' begin, so the flats are somewhat reccessed from the opening. Beacuse of this the socket typically can't grip the very bottom portion of the nut or bolt head. In this case this is about all that's left of the nut's hex, so that's the part of the nut that he needs the socket to grip.


if u cant get that undone, use a vice grip (the ones you can fine tune and adjust). just get the nut off, and get a new one. cos this nut is a writeoff.

You don't think that nut can be saved?? Bummer!!

If you resort to vice grips, make sure you use a good quality one, the cheapies often can't grip hard enough (jaws can sort of twist sideways when trying to grip hard).

[omgzilla]

Hope you sprayed a little bit of WD-40 before you tried to loosen it up.

Agreed! I prefer CRC or Wurth 'Rost-Off', but generally any penetrating lubrication will work wonders with tight nuts and bolts.

Cover it in WD-40/CRC and let it sit for a minute to let it penetrate and free up the nut and attempt to remove it.

Try what JohnL and then what SiReal suggested, failing that - get yourself a hammer and a cold chisel, making sure its got a bit of a point to it (so as to gnaw into the nut slightly) and attempt to shock the nut loose. Working in a loosening motion continue to tap the nut off, carefully but forcefully.

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/5659/nutwd7.jpg
Place the chisel where the RED arrow indicates (in the direction of the RED arrow, hammer is shown to illustrate). The nut should spin off slowly in the direction of the green arrows. Repeat procedure, working around the nut. Apply more penetrant if required.

Remember to inspect the thread on the bolt and test a new nut will thread on correctly. Clean thread or repair if necessary.

Good luck!

[Limbo]

If you take off the trim you should be able to put a socket over it.
Before doing this try plenty of wd40 and maybe even heat up the bolt with a blow torch to loosen it up abit. (be careful as wd40 can be abit flamable)

Had to use this method when i took off the CV main bolt.

Other method is vice grips as stated.
If no go still try a dremel tool and cut the bolt slowly and when you get close split the bolt slowly (Try prying it with a flathead) and try not to hit the thread or your really stuffed.

[shadou]

if there is a small amount of undamaged nut on the bottom I would try using a spanner preferable one of those anti slip ones with the groves, chuck that on and lightly tap with a hammer given plenty of wd40. If that doesn't work it'll be the vice grip or hammer chisel option which will take plenty of time depending on how much you have initially loosened the nut.

[omgitsmatt]

if u still havent got it off, try using a tile cutter to go over the top and loosen it that way, i did it with one of the nuts i couldnt get off while changing my rear tail lights all i did was clamp in and twist and it unscrewed, either a tile cutter or a pair of pliers

[JohnL]

Before doing this try plenty of wd40 and maybe even heat up the bolt with a blow torch to loosen it up abit. (be careful as wd40 can be abit flamable).

Only attempt this if you're confident you know what you're doing. The idea is to heat the nut but not the stud (at least to heat the nut a lot more than the stud) in order for the nut to expand enough to become loose. You need to be quick and controlled or the stud will get too hot as will other parts, possibly damaging paint etc. To heat the nut quickly without too much uncontrolled heat spreading around where you don't want it, you need a small but very hot flame as you'll get from a small oxy tip.

In any case, I have my doubts as to whether this is an appropriate technique in this instance, a lot depends on just why the nut is so tight. The blowtorch technique is useful when the main reason the nut is very tight is because there is some corrosion effectively 'bonding' the male and female threads together. In this case heating the nut will expand it and possibly break (or at least loosen) the bond between the threads. Note that 'corrosion' doesn't necessarily mean rust, it could be oxidation of the plating on the stud and nut.

On the other hand, if the reason the nut is so tight is simply because it's been overly tightened in the first place, then the reason it's so tight is because of excessive tension in the stud effectively pulling so hard on the nut that it won't come loose easily. In this case heating the nut won't do much to ease the tension in the stud and it will remain tight, unless so much heat is used that it causes the stud to also get quite hot and to expand, i.e. to lengthen enough to ease the tension. This does risk damage to paint and other parts, like the rubber spring cushion etc.


Other method is vice grips as stated.
If no go still try a dremel tool and cut the bolt slowly and when you get close split the bolt slowly (Try prying it with a flathead) and try not to hit the thread or your really stuffed.

The Dremel option might work (or a die grinder), but best to cut / grind the nut away on two opposed sides so it's cut through on one side and at least thin on the other side, that way when you try to prise the nut apart it will be a lot easier.

If you damage the thread it's not the end of the world, just run the appropriate die (a button die would be best, the type with an outer hex shape to fit a spanner and without the split) over the damaged thread and it will be good to go, despite any slight nicks that might still exist in the thread. It's not a thread that's exposed to particularly high loadings. It would be best to use some thread lube when installing the new nut (a thick grease will do fine), especially if you have exposed raw steel on the stud.

[shadou]

psst I don't think this guy is skilled enough to handle a blow torch lol one look at that nut should tell you that. Another option is to buy a bottled gas with a torch on the end forgot the name but bearings plus in bayswater stock them for like <$50 from memory, that should give you the adequate heat required for what limbo has suggested which is a safer bet for you.

[AusAccord]

tks all the advices guy. just try the vice grip and doesn't work. as Shadou, i'm not skill enough for a blow torch and no other tools. i'm totally fxxked now and don't know what to do. my mechanic is on holiday and won't open for two weeks time. anyone member in Sydney kind enough to give me a hand pls? thats the only nut drive me nuts

[JohnL]

psst I don't think this guy is skilled enough to handle a blow torch lol one look at that nut should tell you that. Another option is to buy a bottled gas with a torch on the end forgot the name but bearings plus in bayswater stock them for like <$50 from memory, that should give you the adequate heat required for what limbo has suggested which is a safer bet for you.

I wasn't going to be so rude as to directly accuse anyone of a lack of skill (or experience), however I am rude enough to imply it!

The bottle torches you mention will be butane gas and while they might work I suspect it would be pushing it. Just not hot enough so would take too long to heat the nut enough and in the meanwhile the stud etc etc will get too hot (IMO).

[JohnL]

tks all the advices guy. just try the vice grip and doesn't work. as Shadou, i'm not skill enough for a blow torch and no other tools. i'm totally fxxked now and don't know what to do. my mechanic is on holiday and won't open for two weeks time. anyone member in Sydney kind enough to give me a hand pls? thats the only nut drive me nuts

Since you're in dire straights, try this, (it might take a while but you should get there in the end!):

Using a new fine tooth hacksaw blade (not mounted in a saw frame, but held in your delicate blister prone fingers, you could wrap it in tape to protect your hands if you're a wuss), attempt to saw vertically down each side of the nut until you have sawn off a section of nut on each side. Use the saw blade so that the teeth are pointing toward and not away from you, and cut on the 'pull' stroke (if you do it the other way with the teeth pointing away you'll end up bending or breaking the blade).

Try not to cut the thread on the stud, but go as close as you can / dare. Once you've done this (and finished with the band-aids), carefully use a sharp cold chisel to tap the remants of the nut away from the stud. Since youi'll have cut the sides away, you'll have a portion of remnant nut directly in front of you (A), and the other remnant on the othe side of the stud away from you (B). Try to push B away from the stud with the chisel, the weakened sides of the nut should tear, with luck!

PS from the pics to gain adequate access to do this you will most probably need to remove that metal plate, whatever it is.

[omgzilla]

just try the vice grip and doesn't work. as Shadou, i'm not skill enough for a blow torch and no other tools. i'm totally fxxked now and don't know what to do.

Try with a chisel as i explained above!

[Eclipsor]

Try chisel or you should be able to get an angle grinder/dremel in there. Just cut the fker off and get a new top hat from the wreckers. Shouldn't be more than $20 or so. Or just deal with not having a tower bar.

[JohnL]

Try with a chisel as i explained above!

And as I also suggested much further up the page. Trouble is in my experience it doesn't often work if the nut is very tight.

At any rate he now has more suggestions than you could poke a stick at, except maybe for freezing the nut with liquid nitrogen and shattering it with a hammer (don't even think about it!).

[omgzilla]

And as I also suggested much further up the page. Trouble is in my experience it doesn't often work if the nut is very tight.

At any rate he now has more suggestions than you could poke a stick at, except maybe for freezing the nut with liquid nitrogen and shattering it with a hammer (don't even think about it!).

Exactly!

If you can't get it off trying any of the ways everyone has mentioned - its time to take it to a proper mechanic!

[Limbo]

just wait now. Its not like you need it out straight away and anymore could make it harder for anyone else to get it out now

I'd give you a hand but i'm at work ;P

[omgitsmatt]

use my method it works

[Sir_vtec]

if u can no longer get it off then a angle grinder is a good option

next time use a socket and a foot long breaker bar

[destrukshn]

a single hex stock
lol

[Scandrew]

Closed head socket (not the multi-teethed ones) and a breaker bar ftw!

[iced]

seems someone didnt use the right tool, poor tools, or poor technique.
visually that bolt doesnt look that bad..
dont go making it worse with hammers and grinders or chisels like suggested.

go straight to an impact wrench aka rattle gun
if you dont have one then borrow one off a friend or go to their house and remove the bolt.
it still has undamaged surface so my bet is give it 1 hit with a rattle gun and it will come straight off.
if you in sydney i will hit it with my gun if you want.

dont use a breaker bar on that bolt now.
if the tool surface is no longer parallel to the nut surface and end up with a ****ed up nut like this one.
rule: use ring spanners or sockets always when possible over open enders.
ive twisted and bent wheel cross wrenches using breaker bars (pipe).
if i use my impact it comes straight off.
thats where the advantage is. you dont need to apply prolonged force to the nut.

[mqt55s]

if you've got a welder there, weld a small chunk of metal on there so u got some grip when using the vice grips

[AusAccord]

problem finally solved by my mechanic with a hammer and a cold chisel. only 5 hits are enough for the fxxking nut gone. just want to say tks for all the helpful advices. it is a hard way for me to learn a lesson.