Rear Door Speaker Pockets

[mmmsxc]

hi guys. just with the 06 euro's, i realised that there are speakers grilles in the rear doors, but there isnt any speakers in there. my inquiry was, is it possible to fit speakers in there, if so what size would fit in there. i was looking at purchases 6.5 inch components for both the front and rear doors. would it be too big or would it be a perfect fit into there? thanks guys.

[directedfx]

I've done this myself so it's definitely possible. But it all depends on how you want to wire this up. You can either disconnect the rear 6x9's on the parcel shelf and re-route the wires to the rear doors. OR you can just tap into the rear speakers and use an amplifier to run the rear door speakers.

Either way you decide you will need to run new wiring as it doesnt come with the wiring to the rear door in Australian models. You can do this by pulling apart the rear door, and the panel that houses the driver and passenger seatbelt. The trick is to then pull out the rubber tubing between the door panel and the center pillar, and then route wiring via this.

PS: i have 6.5" speakers mounted, but you will need spacers. If you make this yourself like i did you can fit whatever size you require up to 6.5".

[mmmsxc]

thanks a lot for that. it will be 6.5" going in then.

[EuroSteve]

I'm just about to embark on the same task of replacing the factory front splits and 6x9's. Though, I can't make up my mind whether to put splits in the rear doors and d/c the 6x9's, or replace the 6x9's.

Anyway, you might be interested in this bracket: http://www.millionbuy.com/aihsb518.html. I'm about to order 4.

I'm thinking of installing Boston Pro60's (in the front at least), but i'm not 100% decided. It's sooo hard choosing speakers :p

mmmsxc, what speakers you thinking of going for?

S.

[directedfx]

Those Pro60's look good. I have a set of Boston FS series splits running as my fronts. Fantastic speakers, i think you'll be very happy with them, but you will only notice the difference if you have an amp running these, to really bring out the high end. I wouldnt really bother with splits for the rear, the Euro is rather tight for space in the back and you migt experience too much high frequency bouncing around in the car which can be overkill. The tweeters from the front staging is already enough for the Euro.

What i'd probably do instead if i was you is get a decent set of 2 or 3ways for the rear doors, maybe even stick with boston on this one. Disconnect the rear factory 6x9's and have a listen to the front and rear door speakers with the music you like. You may not even need the 6x9's, but that all depends on what music you like and how much bass you want. But in terms of sound quality cranked at higher volume, your covered, all you will need to do after that is consider if you need more bass and this can be done easily by either upgrading the 6x9's or installing a 12" sub. Or 15" if your hardcore. :D

[EUR003act]

10" sub will give cleaner/tighter bass... good for most types of music... 15" is only good for r'n'b / rap music... generaly speaking

[EuroSteve]

Thanks for the good comments directedfx!

Yeah, i'm planning on picking up either the Alpine PDX-4.100 or 4.150. Nice little amp! Should fit nicely under the passenger seat.

I should of mentioned it in my first post, but I actually have another thread over in the Audio/Video section. See http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1487399#post1487399

BTW, there is discussion on that adapter/bracket here -> http://tsx.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28846

Cheers!

-Steve

PS. I'm more of an Alt. Rock fan. (Killers/Muse/Snow Patrol, etc...)

[mmmsxc]

I'm just about to embark on the same task of replacing the factory front splits and 6x9's. Though, I can't make up my mind whether to put splits in the rear doors and d/c the 6x9's, or replace the 6x9's.

Anyway, you might be interested in this bracket: http://www.millionbuy.com/aihsb518.html. I'm about to order 4.

I'm thinking of installing Boston Pro60's (in the front at least), but i'm not 100% decided. It's sooo hard choosing speakers :p

mmmsxc, what speakers you thinking of going for?

S.


well im going for alpine speakers throughout. i will be using the type x spx-17pro for the front & rear pockets and using the type s 6x9s. they will be running off a jl audio 300/4 amp. however im still deciding on my subs. either jl audio w3's or w6's. i will be using a 500/1 monoblock for them.

[directedfx]

mmmsxc, you probably shouldnt bother with replacing your 6x9's if your going to install a sub. Your not only going to have to spend money on the speakers itself but also an amp to run these. By installing your rear door speakers you've got your rear fill covered. The 6x9's would only be serving the purpose of bass, which is not required if your going to have a sub.

Like i said before, do the 4 door speakers first, get that crisp, clean distortionless sound from your system, and then add in the bass. Doing it in this order and not installing the sub at the same time garuntee's you dont have distortion or noise in your system. Once you put the doof doof sub your distraction will be steered away from any abnormal noise. So when your pumping your system you may not realise such things as ground loop noise, clipping, and other effects that may damage your audio equipment long term.

[tony1234]

IMO i'd upgrade the rear 6x9s to a good 3 way(i've got old Alpine DDDrives in mine)and some good 6"splits in the front(i've got Boston Rallys),power it with a good 4 ch.amp(again i've got an Alpine 50WRMS/channel amp)and a 10 or 12" sub powered by a decent amp(i'ver got a Kenwood 120WRMS bridged).Don't forget to Dynamat the front doors and you'll be good to go.

[one4spl]

A compelling reason to swap to using the rear doors rather than the 6x9s would be to use the 6x9 holes to fire sub bass through, maybe using a compact band pass box mounted to the roof of the boot with ports aiming at the old grilles.

[directedfx]

one4spl, is this your plan ;) Sounds hard core gangsta haha But realistically it'd be a tricky job with the Euro, I'm currently trying to mount two amps mounted on a custom made frame on the roof of the boot just between the 6x9's and it's a very uneven surface, with quite thin sheet metal which doesnt support much weight. So hanging a sub box off it would probably not be ideal. But hey, if your one 4 SPL, then i'm sure you'll find a way. :cool:

[one4spl]

haha, it is rough, and you need to leave room for the boot lid springs...

I'm actually happy enough with the OEM stuff in the Lux... all I've added is bluetooth handsfree, and soon a USASpec iPod/aux input box.

[directedfx]

Oh yeh i forgot to mention that, those boot lid springs are annoying, i had to redesign the whole custom frame because of them. But they are the best things ever, having the boot open half way is very handy and adds that touch of class.

Yeh i must admit, i was very happy with the standard lux stereo, but i had all the equipment from my old car and couldn't bring myself to part with it, and i couldn't resist putting it all in. At medium volume its hard to justify all that work put in but when you can just pump up the sound once in a while real loud without any struggle from the speakers its just great peace of mind, especially when you have others in the car that appreciate great sound. Chics preferably :D

[mmmsxc]

thanks directedfx. well is it possible to fit 6.5" into the 6x9 slots. it sounds like a good idea not to connect the 6x9s. but i would love to put 6.5" into there instead.

[EUR003act]

but when you can just pump up the sound once in a while real loud without any struggle from the speakers its just great peace of mind, especially when you have others in the car that appreciate great sound. Chics preferably :D

hahaha the only reason i installed two 12" alpine subs in my car instead of one :p lol

[directedfx]

thanks directedfx. well is it possible to fit 6.5" into the 6x9 slots. it sounds like a good idea not to connect the 6x9s. but i would love to put 6.5" into there instead.

You can build a custom spacer and definitely fit in a 6.5" in the 6x9" slot, but then you'd be getting a similar effect but weaker. You may as well upgrade the 6x9's to the Alpine S series (as you suggested before) and if these are running off an amp, you'll find this should produce quite a bit of extra bass and serve the purpose you need and may not require the sub.

The thing is, you mentioned getting a monoblock amp and w3/w6's, so im not entirely sure if your craving hard bass in your ride. But if you are, then i'd suggest you go the front splits, and whack some decent 6.5"'s in the rear doors and forget about upgrading the 6x9's. This way you can balance your hight/mid frequencies (from your door speakers) with your low frequencies (from your monster subwoofer system). This allows you to have complete control over the system when it comes to tuning it. The sound spectrum that the 6x9's produce will already be covered by the door speakers combined with your sub(s).

It's a great debate in car audio if 6x9's are :thumbsup: or :thumbdwn: and everyone has there own opinion. Generally 6x9's are used as an effective substitute, when there isnt space or a budget for sub woofers.

As you already know i have all four doors packed with speakers, and with this i am running a 12" sub (with the 6x9's disconnected) . However after a recent road trip i have realised that i would like to have my boot space once in a while, so i'm in the middle of working on a system where i can easily remove the sub, and then switch the amp to run the 6x9's instead, still running the low pass filter, so the 6x9s only produce low frequencies (to simulate the purpose of the sub).

Sorry about the essay, but the topic of the ideal car sound system is endless, so to summarise, I THINK, put the 6.5" in the rear door and enjoy the quality and flexibility later. I've ripped my car apart about 3 times to reconfigure my setup and get it right. Some advice, just do it right the first time around so you spend more time enjoying your system rather than fixing it.

PS: If you want another essay, ask me about my experience with LOC's in the Euro. But just PM so i don't bore the rest of the guys :p

[directedfx]

hahaha the only reason i installed two 12" alpine subs in my car instead of one :p lol

The things we do for ladies hey :p and they never seem to understand why we're constantly working on our cars. It's all for them really :cool:

[EuroSteve]

PS: If you want another essay, ask me about my experience with LOC's in the Euro. But just PM so i don't bore the rest of the guys :p

I'm up for an essay on LOC's! I've sent you a PM! :)

S.

Edit: I'm looking at this one: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18460 Anybody had any experiences?

[directedfx]

In case any one else is interested, mmmsxc you mind find this useful when you endeavor on your install. Worrying about the quality of the speaker is pointless unless you have a good clean source to power them. Other experiences with LOC's would be most welcome too :) Be warned this is another long one.


Hey Steve,

Good to hear you like my verbal dribble. I'd be glad to share my findings. Well theres no doubt that Phoenix Gold is a very reputable manufacturer of car audio peripherals, and the item you showed me seems it has a bit more control than other LOCs out there. Generally there isnt much to a signal converter circuit, so your standard run of the mill Jaycar LOC will do the job. BUT the problem is filtering out noise, and this was my main concern. From all the reviews i read on the net, the Peripheral SVEN4 is one of the best on the market and ultimately this is what i wanted to get, or the Stinger (Same company). I found one on eBay in the US and the picture was of the SVEN4 but to my disappointment they sent me something else. Which was also a decent LOC, but only average, called the PAC2.

Now i decided to keep this item as it had other features like a remote turn on delay, for the amp, with a 1 second delay to avoid the 'pop' noise you hear from the sub when the amp is switched on before the source. When i first installed this LOC, or LLC(Line Level Converter) rather, i wasnt so impressed because at low levels and silence between songs i could hear a hissing. This annoyed the sh!t out of me, but rather than spend more money on a new LOC, i figured i'd try and eliminate this noise myself first, by fine tuning the output levels from the LOC, and the gain on my amps. This did improve things a lot, but there was still slight noise.

So after a few sleepless nights i had a brainstorm to relocate the LOC to the rear of the car (closer to the amps), rather than at the front where the head unit is. My logic here was if the LOC is at the front of the car, and coverts the signal low, by the time the low signal gets to the rear of the car next to the amps, the rca cables would have picked up noise, and then this noise is amplified by the amp of course. Other reasons for this, is you can conveniently tap into the rear output leading to the 6x9's in the boot area, so i only had to run 2 pairs of wires to the back for the front speaker signals. This also means i didnt have to run 3 sets (front, back, sub) of rca's to the back of the car, which would reduce and induced noise in the rca lines.

End result, i have wired it now at the rear of the car, and grounded the LOC much better, and damn, it's close to flawless sound. It doesnt just NOT have noise, the music just sounds better and clearer (but this could always be a mind thing). So my tips, wire the LOC near the amps, and ground the amps and LOC like you've never grounded before.

Now on another note, i would still recommend the Stinger/Peripheral, because my brother installed a Stinger into one of his mates new camry's and installation was less of a headache, and less soldering involved because of the screw connectors. Excellent sound without all the dramas i went through. But we did notice lower volume coming from the sub and he couldn't crank it as much as he'd hoped. But that may just be a matter of adjusting outputs and gains.

Hope that all gave you some useful information, i swear i was planning to make this a short message but i just couldnt help myself

As for your LOC, read reviews on the PGold and compare it with the Peripheral reviews, then make your decision. Best way to learn is from others that have used it.

[tony1234]

I can vouch for the Peripheral SVEN4.NO hissing whatsoever.:thumbsup:

[mmmsxc]

thanks heaps directedfx. really appreciate the feedback. i think i might just leave out the 6x9s. when it comes down to installation, it would be a professional due to the fact that im getting 5.8" screens into the headset and my rear arm rest modified to get the dvd to sit inside the arm rest and with the push of a button release up. similar to the 06 caprice's. so im really looking forward for those mods. also importing a module from the states to watch what ever the rear passengers are watching on my front sat nav screen.

[kelvinthai]

hi sorry for bringing out old tread.. I notice there is a wire in the rear speaker at the door. however when i plug speaker in there is no sound. If there is a wire than surely there is a way we can on it??? Like honda remove the rear speaker fuse?

If that wire cant be use than i will have to rewire from back speaker as mention above. BTW its a 2007 CL9...

[davey]

adding to kelvinthai post... whats everyones opinion to connect the rear door speakers in series with the 6x9

[EUR003act]

hi sorry for bringing out old tread.. I notice there is a wire in the rear speaker at the door. however when i plug speaker in there is no sound. If there is a wire than surely there is a way we can on it??? Like honda remove the rear speaker fuse?

If that wire cant be use than i will have to rewire from back speaker as mention above. BTW its a 2007 CL9...

those wires are for the premium sound system (not offered in aus) it had 8 speakers instead of the standard 6... you could hook a speaker up but youd need an amp to run them as the stock H/U only has 4/6 speaker outlets...