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vampzzz
07-01-2008, 03:15 PM
hey guys, i want to do up my d16 performance wise and i dont want to put in a new engine so what are your guys thoughts, what can be done to get a lot of power without turbo'ing it .. thanks for the help.

riruiz_88
07-01-2008, 05:14 PM
a good place to start would be intake and exhaust. match these up properly and you will gain power, not huge amounts but an increase for sure. then if you want to go further you can go for cams and piggy back ECU. though you can always strip unnecessary weight, costs nothing leaving a big smile.

Gio
07-01-2008, 07:23 PM
Strip weight, light rims, CAI/RAM intake, intake manifold, headers, exhaust, vtec stickers :)

beeza
07-01-2008, 07:37 PM
No need to change the Intake Manifold.

jdm_kid
07-01-2008, 07:46 PM
what makes u say that ?

Gio
07-01-2008, 07:49 PM
change the intake manifold. beeza lies. Increased gains will occur. also go carbon everything or just the hood :)

beeza
07-01-2008, 08:05 PM
You only need to upgrade if your doing a BIG set-up.The y8 IM is fine,it's the biggest of all the d Intake manifold's.It should be the last thing you change.The next step up is the Skunk2 IM.You should have an aftermarket cam and cam gear b4 this.The Skunk2 IM will give you more High end and you will lose low/mid range.So it really should be tuned after it is fitted.
But if you change the IM you should also change the Throttle body to a 60mm b16 TB.
In most instances you will lose power by just putting on a skunk2 IM or minimum the power band will go to s**t!

vampzzz
08-01-2008, 12:52 AM
so far .. i've read other stuff and i've got a list

p29 pistons

z6 head combustion chamber

66mm skunk2 throttle body

skunk2 intake manifold

SMSP header

255 LPH fuel pump

anything else i would need or should have to increase power ?

beeza
08-01-2008, 11:08 AM
Before you take my word for it,it's best you join up d-series.org.
They will tell you EXACTLY what you should and shouldn't do.Not many have the d-series on here...

Go forth and join the d-series clan,great site with great people.You would be silly not to.
Brett.

nd55
08-01-2008, 12:30 PM
D16Y8 96kW OEM.

IMHO there's probably only 20% available max increase on a NA D16 build.

For the money, a turbo D16 is best bang for buck, but if you're limited to a NA, then consider the following.


A 20% power rise will be with the within the capabilities of the stock fuel pump. No need for a Walbro fuel pump.

If you're not going to be re-tuning the ECU, an increase in fuel pressure might help, however.

In closed loop mode, the ECU will adjust for higher pressures. In open loop WOT mode, you'll need to match the pressure increase to your fuel demands or you'll run lean (Not GOOD!!!!).

Potential donors:

D16 38psi.
B18C5 43 psi.
CBR 9XX motorcycle ~50psi. I havn't seen one of these in the flesh, but I think it's got the same size and form factor.

> 66mm skunk2 throttle body
OEM 56mm 96kW
B16 60mm 118kW
Type R B18 62mm 140kW

So why do you need a 66mm throttle body?

OEM 56mm will do a good job.
A second hand B16 TB will be ample.
66mm monster will drop your air velocity and hurt low RPM response and economy.

> z6 head combustion chamber

Y8 is by no means a poor combustion chamber, just different.
The swirl intake port, closed chamber and quench decks will result in a little higher compression ratio AND better tolerance to detonation.
Y8 valves are the same size as Z6 (biggest amongst d16 engines).
The better combustion chamber offsets the SLIGHTLY poorer flowing ports.

> skunk2 intake manifold

Chief advantge of this unit, is the runners are shorter than OEM. Very similar flow capabilities.

IMHO, only applicable if it's matched to a cam suited to higher RPM torque peak.

> SMSP header

Supposed to be a very good header, although I think the D16Y8 cast OEM 4-2-1 design isn't bad at all.

SUMMARY:

Do the mods suggested by Endyn to the oil pump (port, shim the spring).
CBR fuel regulator.
Zex 105300 cam (retarded 2-3 degrees).

Got a bit more cash?

Zex 59500 (with z6 cam gear, is there a 105500?), Valve train to suit cam.
intake manifold.
Say goodbye to low RPM's and wait for broken parts.

then

Tune! tune! tune!

Nick

PS. engine mounts, light flywheel and OBX LSD should be at the top of your list.

vampzzz
08-01-2008, 03:13 PM
well, i got this link

http://www.d-series.org/forums//showthread.php?t=21761

and i just followed that .. so i should scratch everything and do what your saying ?

engine mounts, light flywheel and OBX LSD first

CBR fuel regulator.
Zex 105300 cam

so no need for intake manifold, pistons, throttle body, etc ?

beeza
08-01-2008, 05:06 PM
Great to see man!
Do the 60mm b16TB and IM at the very last.Once the car is tuned you won't lose too much low/mid range,but you will have a nice gain over the entire powerband.
Pistons are good for building up compression.And if you increase the rpm limit it's good to have a nice set of pistons that can handle the punishment.

Don't forget to do ya brakes and suspension mods if your doing all of this too.

vampzzz
08-01-2008, 05:28 PM
ok cool thanks alot for all the help guys!

nd55
08-01-2008, 09:29 PM
> so i should scratch everything and do what your saying

No, decide your goals, then find the means to that end.

Also, be realistic, spending more than $1k on a NA d16 is pointless.
Sell your d16Y8 and buy a b16, b18 or even go a CRV B20.

my cam and regulator suggestions are my tips on cheap & simple mods with tangible benefits.

> so no need for intake manifold, pistons, throttle body, etc ?

Didn't say no need for them.

It's just you need the whole package to make it effective and that gets you into the big $$.

A cam with more overlap to shift the torque peak to higher RPM.
Higher compression pistons to account for the lower dynamic compression ratio of a high overlap cam.
An intake manifold with shorter runners tuned to maximize the ram effect at higher RPM.

And then you get into the issues of tuning this beast which is another small pile of coin.

The D16 is an econo motor with a large stroke & small bore.
The long bore makes it difficult to spin the motor at high rpms and hence limits the realistic power potential.

A b16 on the other hand is more of a motorcycle engine.
At like rpm's the d16 is MORE powerful than the b16.

The b16 however can spin to 8k+ RPM and needs this range to get its power.

FInally, if you're gonna tweak a d16Y8, remember it's achilles heel, the oiling system.

Honda configured it just right to minimize power losses, but it's not very forgiving in a souped up motor.
Do the Endyn mods. Cheap and simple!
Also, a morosso accumulator 2 probably wouldn't go astray and is quite cheap.

Nick.

PS
Poly engine mounts would be the top of my list, but will introduce a LOT of vibration into the cabin.
Not girlfriend or family friendly.
Beeza, you sold yours recently. Any comments?

The OBX would be second, but needs some research into the shimming issue.

hondavti25
08-01-2008, 09:40 PM
hey dude i went through the same sort of thought. ive already got a decent Intake set up with full exhuast its alright but stilll not enough to say its a fast car at all. I honestly recomend maybe looking up aza or lyes turbo D set ups. Unless your really serious about going NA D series which most will tell you is expensive and near pointless. Good luck man with it EJ8s FTW!

PS if a budget allows it id go a b18c no point in a b16 conversion for the gains V the money B18c is a little more justifiable.

vampzzz
08-01-2008, 09:49 PM
what are the endyn mods ?

nd55
08-01-2008, 09:56 PM
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d%5Fseries%5Fengine%5Fbuilding%5Ftips/

Only the stuff about the oil pump is relevant.

He also talks about shimming the oil pressure relief valve, but I can't seem to find it now.

Nick.

vampzzz
09-01-2008, 12:22 AM
thanks a lot, you've been a great help Nick :D

blabla
09-01-2008, 07:32 AM
hey vampzzz,
I had gone throught the same thing. i just put in a b16a2. if your after some decent power with the combination of decents fuel consumpsion and never drive more then 2 ppl go for the b16a conversion, i have a b16a2 iv got ecu cai headers exhuast type r clutch and fly. Has not been tuned yet. thinking of doing cams and cam gears with slightly shaved head to increase compression and power. So ur choice b18c little bit more in price but if u wanna go and do something crazy drop in prelude motor i think its a h22a if memory serves me right

V-TEC_BABY
09-01-2008, 09:57 AM
H22A would be crazy as man! Do it!

vampzzz
09-01-2008, 04:25 PM
i just dont want to do an engine conversion because it will be harder to sell when its time to part ways with my baby. lol.

blabla
09-01-2008, 06:37 PM
dude id say drive a stock vtir and a worked d16y8 then decide with what u want to do