mounts and fuel system for EG hatch

[MM89]

After some searching I struggled to find some concise information
on what I'm after. I've planned for a B16a drop into a 92 EG4 hatch.
To my understanding it is a direct drop into the bay other than the
fuel system, where I'l have to get the tank, rails, pump etc because
I have the carby model.

Also what I've heard is that the passenger side mount is the only
difference? Correct? If so, I should use the Integra passenger side
mount? From which model Integra may I take mount out of? What
would be the cost of an Integra mount from a wrecker?

Otherwise, what's the deal with engine mounts if the above is not
what I need for the conversion?

Thanks in advance guys!

[riruiz_88]

you can only use B series mounts for a B series engine. you NEED B series mounts. your best bet would be to get a half cut as it will have everything you need. including CV's, brakes, mounts, ECU, harness. its hard to say how much it will cost just for the mounts. you should make some calls and just pop in to a wrecker. if your not lucky with that, you may need to go original

[teh_mechanic]

To my understanding it is a direct drop into the bay other than the
fuel system, where I'l have to get the tank, rails, pump etc because
I have the carby model.

For the fuel system:

-if by rails you mean the fuel lines/rails running under car from tank to engine,you dont need these,ive done this conversion you are planning and my car is running fine with the carby fuel lines.

-When you buy the tank (probably from wreckers) specify that you want the pump with it if they have one,to make it easier.

-Remember to include a efi fuel filter in your system and ditch the carby one,the efi ones have a stronger metal casing because of the higher pressure in efi fuel system.

-Slight modifications are needed when you get to the point where you have a flexible fuel hose coming from your supply fuel line that needs to be attatched to your fuel rail as the efi car uses a banjo fitting not a push on and clamp kind of thing like all your other lines can be....i just modified it so i could push the hose on,then double clamped it because there is alot of pressure there.

-you need to run a wire from the inside firewall loom down to the fuel pump and be sure to find a good ground for the pump,make sure its the right wire as the ecu has safety features built in to do things like if you crash and there is no ignition signal it doesnt just keep pumping fuel through a leaking line,ultimately leading to your firey death. I found the wire down on the rh side of the driver footwell.

[Limbo]

try hasports they have the conversion mounts you will need.
I think Yonas also sells them

[MM89]

For the fuel system:

-if by rails you mean the fuel lines/rails running under car from tank to engine,you dont need these,ive done this conversion you are planning and my car is running fine with the carby fuel lines.

-When you buy the tank (probably from wreckers) specify that you want the pump with it if they have one,to make it easier.

-Remember to include a efi fuel filter in your system and ditch the carby one,the efi ones have a stronger metal casing because of the higher pressure in efi fuel system.

-Slight modifications are needed when you get to the point where you have a flexible fuel hose coming from your supply fuel line that needs to be attatched to your fuel rail as the efi car uses a banjo fitting not a push on and clamp kind of thing like all your other lines can be....i just modified it so i could push the hose on,then double clamped it because there is alot of pressure there.

-you need to run a wire from the inside firewall loom down to the fuel pump and be sure to find a good ground for the pump,make sure its the right wire as the ecu has safety features built in to do things like if you crash and there is no ignition signal it doesnt just keep pumping fuel through a leaking line,ultimately leading to your firey death. I found the wire down on the rh side of the driver footwell.

thanks for the info dude! really informative :)
Also in regards to the fuel lines, wouldn't I also require a set of returning fuel lines for the fuel to travel back to the tank?

[Paul1985]

I wanna know the same fuel line question as above.
Also, you got more detailed info about wiring up the pump teh_mechanic??

[teh_mechanic]

no you dont need fuel lines changed,there are already 3 lines on the twin carb eg,well mine was anyway,dont see why yours would be different,1 - supply 2-return 3-vapour to charcoal canister

I had an ecu wiring diagram but i cant seem to find it.I remember from when i was wiring mine up:
you need to get power to the pump (obviously),there is a wire in the efi loom that you will be installing,it probably got cut when the loom got taken from its last car,it is a green/yellow wire that runs down the driver side of the car,i found mine in the driver footwell when i was installing the loom,run this to the pump.then you just need to run a ground wire for the pump.you will know its the right wire because when you turn the ignition on the pump will run for a few seconds (primes the fuel system) then it will stop,then when you crank the car it should start (after everything else is done obviously)

[teh_mechanic]

another thing.when my tank is past 3/4 full,on a hot day,fuel sometimes leaks from the charcoal canister,not pouring out,but it drips a bit until it gets down enough. I checked all my lines were connected correctly,and that none were crimped,even changed to an efi charcoal canister as its a little different to the charcoal canister.still did it,so ive just been filling tank half way,but i think i know the solution now:
i found something saying that when you do the efi conversion,you put the new loom in but you also may need to run the following wires-

Thing - wire colour - where it goes in ecu

VTEC Solenoid - Yellow/Green - pin A4
VTEC Oil Pressure Sensor - Blue - pin D6
VTEC Ground - Black - Chassis Ground
Knock Sensor - Red/Blue - Pin D3
Evap Purge Power - Yellow/Black -12V Power
Evap Purge Solenoid - Red - Pin A20

my efi loom that i was putting in already had the vtec wires in it,im not running a knock sensor....but the wires in bold,for the evaporation purge,i havnt looked into them,im thinking they may be my fuel leak problem,pressure would be building in my tank,running down the vapour line into the charcoal canister like it is supposed to,but then if the purge of the vapours from the canister into the intake manifold isnt working then pressure will just build in the canister,the pressure builds in the tank,the fuel needs somewhere to go,so it runs down the vapour line and out the canister.....il check the wires out next time ive got some spare time
Just a heads up for when you do yours

[Paul1985]

another thing.when my tank is past 3/4 full,on a hot day,fuel sometimes leaks from the charcoal canister,not pouring out,but it drips a bit until it gets down enough. I checked all my lines were connected correctly,and that none were crimped,even changed to an efi charcoal canister as its a little different to the charcoal canister.still did it,so ive just been filling tank half way,but i think i know the solution now:
i found something saying that when you do the efi conversion,you put the new loom in but you also may need to run the following wires-

Thing - wire colour - where it goes in ecu

VTEC Solenoid - Yellow/Green - pin A4
VTEC Oil Pressure Sensor - Blue - pin D6
VTEC Ground - Black - Chassis Ground
Knock Sensor - Red/Blue - Pin D3
Evap Purge Power - Yellow/Black -12V Power
Evap Purge Solenoid - Red - Pin A20

my efi loom that i was putting in already had the vtec wires in it,im not running a knock sensor....but the wires in bold,for the evaporation purge,i havnt looked into them,im thinking they may be my fuel leak problem,pressure would be building in my tank,running down the vapour line into the charcoal canister like it is supposed to,but then if the purge of the vapours from the canister into the intake manifold isnt working then pressure will just build in the canister,the pressure builds in the tank,the fuel needs somewhere to go,so it runs down the vapour line and out the canister.....il check the wires out next time ive got some spare time
Just a heads up for when you do yours

Hey teh_mechanic.
I think i may have figured out your fuel issue. Maybe not. I'd be glad if it was and i were able to help. Check this out. I think you may be missing the two-way valve. By the sound of it, this controls the pressure in the vapour line, thats exactly your problem from your post. Heres the pics from the manual:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/Paul_K_1985/zzz023.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/Paul_K_1985/zzz024.jpg

[teh_mechanic]

nice find,ive got the two way valve in,but ill give that test of it a try,gotta get my hands on a vacuum guage
thanks