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dupac->
08-01-2008, 05:33 PM
brake lines..


as in i've ripped out everything to do with the brakes in the current car, (dw very old car)

from brake lines to brake cylinder n stuff and all them wirey lines too..


can they be re-done?

since this car was all drum brakes and was looking to upgrade to all disc brakes.. was looking at to change the whole brake set up from the engine bay to the discs..

pretty much start from scratch with the brakes..

or

was even looking at using for instance an eg si whole brake setup from master cylinder black wirey lines and so on.. non abs (if that makes a diff)

easy job? can be done?

destrukshn
08-01-2008, 05:37 PM
du, leave the standard hard brake lines, and get custom braided ones.

dsp26
08-01-2008, 05:42 PM
^^ya i agree.. transferring those metal lines that go under the car from engine bay is a pita

dupac->
08-01-2008, 05:43 PM
im talking about the pos in my garage btw. lol

yeah thats not the part im worried about. you know the that brake master cylinder thing in the engine bay.. and all them black wirey lines coming out of it.. i hacked at them.. lol cut them to bits.. and now just realised if it can be made up again..

like the rubber hoses around the calipers n stuff im not worried about its the lines in the engine bay that lead out to the calipers.

destrukshn
08-01-2008, 05:45 PM
the hard lines?
or the rubber ones?

dupac->
08-01-2008, 05:45 PM
^^ya i agree.. transferring those metal lines that go under the car from engine bay is a pita

lol yeah thats what im talking about..

dupac->
08-01-2008, 05:45 PM
the hard lines?
or the rubber ones?
the hard lines.

destrukshn
08-01-2008, 05:47 PM
your ****ed now.
lol
lol.
yeah you can get them made up, but **** du!
why!!
lol.
at this point get rid of it
lol.

dsp26
08-01-2008, 05:48 PM
^^lol yeah mate... i tried removing even 1 line from my old ride that was written off... like seriously it's almost impossible to remove in tact undamaged let alone transfer to another car.

dupac->
08-01-2008, 05:49 PM
your ****ed now.
lol
lol.
yeah you can get them made up, but **** du!
why!!
lol.
at this point get rid of it
lol.
lol coz them bitches wouldnt unscrew.

ill call you when the time comes johnny turbo :)
hey its only metal in the engine bay right?

and transfer into rubber ones under the car?
LOL

man i havent even look under there yet..

i just ripped everything out of the engine bay..

reason why i hacked at it.. i was looking at to change the master cylinder..brake booster thingo.. WATEVA ITS CALLED.. and yeah.. thought they would be useless anwyays..

dupac->
08-01-2008, 05:53 PM
^^lol yeah mate... i tried removing even 1 line from my old ride that was written off... like seriously it's almost impossible to remove in tact undamaged let alone transfer to another car.
if they can be made up.. im fine with that aswell... doesnt have to be from another car..

i know theyre fragile as shit
lol

destrukshn
08-01-2008, 05:55 PM
^^lol yeah mate... i tried removing even 1 line from my old ride that was written off... like seriously it's almost impossible to remove in tact undamaged let alone transfer to another car.
lol, are you guys using pipe spanners?

dupac->
08-01-2008, 05:58 PM
lol, are you guys using pipe spanners?
bro wateva fitted onto the end of the line is what i used..

then i ended up using pliers to hack at it
lol
:(

destrukshn
08-01-2008, 05:59 PM
lol.
ask next time dude.
lol.

JohnL
08-01-2008, 10:19 PM
Mate, sounds seriously like you've effectively turned a servicable car into scrap metal. I get the distinct impression you have absolutely no idea how much work and expense will be involved in what you want to do. I can almost guarantee you'll abandon this half way through, unless you're very bloody minded about it. Problem is you're already way past the point of no return...

Think first, hack second!

PS The only reasonable way out of this is to try and find all the bits you're going to need to replace everything you've cut up from a wrecker. Making up all new lines etc is going to cost a bomb relative to the value of the car, not even considering the amount of work that will be involved.

Limbo
08-01-2008, 10:47 PM
you can get the metal lines made up. But they cost a mint.
I've seen them worked into a RX3

dupac->
08-01-2008, 11:15 PM
Mate, sounds seriously like you've effectively turned a servicable car into scrap metal. I get the distinct impression you have absolutely no idea how much work and expense will be involved in what you want to do. I can almost guarantee you'll abandon this half way through, unless you're very bloody minded about it. Problem is you're already way past the point of no return...

Think first, hack second!

PS The only reasonable way out of this is to try and find all the bits you're going to need to replace everything you've cut up from a wrecker. Making up all new lines etc is going to cost a bomb relative to the value of the car, not even considering the amount of work that will be involved.

im pretty sure the shit i cut up wasnt useable anyway..

and im sure finding a donor car would be the way to get the lines back..
or just get copper tubes running back to the calipers from the engine baybrake booster...

relax mate its my fun, i knwo what im getting into.. no need to tell me dad.. its really ok. i made a thread to get some idea's and help.. not to be given a lecture.
but thanks for ur input :)

luzinit
09-01-2008, 12:01 AM
check out this thread mate, that guy probably did the same thing. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45991&page=30
the black ek sedan posted by bananaman. all good buddy, it can be fixed.

zco
09-01-2008, 12:56 AM
what you wanna do is re run the hardlines that you chopped, with braided ones

you should have hardlines coming out of the master cylinder, into the prop valve, then hardlines from prop valve leading to each corner..

it seems like youve only hacked away the lines running from the master cylinder to hte prop valve.. just replace those with braided lines. buying the tool to do hardlines is just gonna cost you more if you're only replacing the lines from master cylinder to prop valve.

msn me if u need help boy

zco
09-01-2008, 01:03 AM
oh shit cuz.. i just read the first post again. you ripped out everything from teh engine bay ? fock me dead.. . might aswell relocate your propvalve exactly what tony's posted ..

you need the tool from summit racing and do the lines again.. run hardlines all over..

its a bitch to unbolt the lines, but i think you gave in too easily.. should use the locking clamp/pliers next time. they work wonders. no damage to the nuts either :)

luzinit
09-01-2008, 09:09 AM
have you got that clamp zco?
ill pick you up and we have a look next time if ure free.
need pics dupac!!

dupac->
09-01-2008, 09:15 AM
lol thanks thanks. yeah its all gone ill try n salvage as much as i can. but yeah.. ill have a look wheni get home

JohnL
09-01-2008, 09:19 AM
im pretty sure the shit i cut up wasnt useable anyway..

and im sure finding a donor car would be the way to get the lines back..
or just get copper tubes running back to the calipers from the engine baybrake booster...

relax mate its my fun, i knwo what im getting into.. no need to tell me dad.. its really ok. i made a thread to get some idea's and help.. not to be given a lecture.
but thanks for ur input :)

OK, but I got the impresssion you'd cut just about every hard line on the car. New lines can be made from steel or copper tubing (the steel tube is plated of course). Copper is by far the easiest to fit to the car due to it's ease of bending etc, steel is a lot more awkward. I have some vague recollection that if the car originally had steel tubes from the factory then legally you might be required to use steel tubing not copper.

If this correct (and I'm not certain but it's something you ought to check), it's a drag since copper is perfectly servicable in this application (be aware though that not just any copper tube is OK, it has to be hydraulic pressure tube made to cope with the pressures involved)

Either way, having a few tubes made up will be a relatively reasonable cost, having a lot made up will quickly become very costly. If you need to make up a lot of tubes then it might be more economic to purchase the necessary flaring tool and all the fittings and tubing you need and make them up yourself??? Research required I would think.

Paul1985
09-01-2008, 09:44 AM
im re-doing my entire hardlines with SS Hardline.. heres my input. Most people are on the money with there comments.

It is going to cost a lot..
I bought fittings and 20 foot of line which cost around $200. Not to mention it's not ADR approved, so will need to be engineered if i want it on the road.
Also need to get a flare tool, tubing bender and something to cut the tube with, the tools im looking at are about $150 for the lot... On-top of that you have a chance of leakage.. That said, the time and effort it will take to make these lines..

Im re-doing my as im tucking my brake lines and re-locating the prop valve under the dash.

Check this thread out..
DIY: how to tuck your brakelines: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2103425
Doing your own is a possibility.
Paying a brake specialist to do them is another option.
Or you could source the lines from the same car.

BaNaNaMaN
09-01-2008, 10:01 AM
Just read thru this as I have had a couple of questions about the pics I posted of my mates car.

Only lines visible in the bay
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/Hayce/build/DSCF6159.jpg

Stainless fittings into the fire wall
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/Hayce/build/DSCF6161.jpg

Stainless banjo's
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/Hayce/build/DSCF6164.jpg

Rear's entering the cabin:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/Hayce/build/DSCF6168.jpg

Thought that bend over the floor loom was a nice touch, could have just man handled them as there was enough play in the line to do it:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/Hayce/build/DSCF6170.jpg

Prop valve plumbed up:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/Hayce/build/DSCF6172.jpg

Best shot I could manage of the braided line without messing up my do, more stainless banjos:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/Hayce/build/DSCF6173.jpg


Some of the comments are unwarrented IMO. This job was done by professionals at around 20% off most parts and cost $768 NZD for all fittings and fitting service.

So it is not as bad as some have made out. Unless you are getting charged twice that then I wouldn't be worried.

dupac->
09-01-2008, 03:25 PM
bananaman.. you made thigns heaps clear.. with pics and all..

would probs get pros to do it as it would be much easier.. money shouldnt be too much of an issue..

thanks :thumbsup: