civic dash

[Cro]

hey ozhonda does anyone have any tips or help to show how to remove the entire dash in an eg civic hatch ??? im replacing the wiring harness just thought i could get some help in removing the dash instead of just going in an ripping everything apart lol also is anyone aware if the efi harness plugs into everything on a carby car besids the ecu of course thanks guys

[Red_EG4]

http://www.hondatech.com.au/forum/hondatech_index.php
Sign up and download a workshop manual, it tells you everything.
If you can't download it for whatever reason, PM me and I will send you the relevant pages.

[teh_mechanic]

to make it easier when putting the dash back,put the bolts you take out in little seperate marked boxes eg. LH dash, centre dash,centre console, rear dash brace, radio support.then your not left with a big pile of bolts and wondering where they go

all the bolts that hold the dash in are pretty easy to find really,just keep looking and undo as you see them.there is one hiding underneath the centre air con vent so pop that out and get the screw. drop the steering column down first to make it easier

the harness you are taking out behind the dash attatches too:
-pokes through the firewall and attatches to engine loom and light/horn etc loom
inside car -ecu
- radio
-air con controls
-heater box for fan controls
- all your buttons,like hazard lights,power mirrors etc.
- ignition

basically everything in the cabin in front of the front seats....the brake lights and stuff are part of a different loom,so just plug them into your loom that you are putting in

[Cro]

im just a little unsure as to how good the efi harness is going to fit the carby behind the dash ....

[teh_mechanic]

yeah its pretty much plug and play.ive got some info from when i did my eg twin carby to b16 conversion.... if you got an efi loom out of a non vtec car you will most likely need to run a few extra wires:

Thing Wire colour where it goes (ECU pin)

VTEC Solenoid Yellow/Green pin A4
VTEC Oil Pressure Sensor Blue pin D6
VTEC Ground Black any chassis ground
Knock Sensor Red/Blue Pin D3
Evap Purge Power Yellow/Black any 12V Power
Evap Purge Solenoid Red Pin A20

O2 sensor - carby car didnt have on,efi one does,the wires go:
Using a P28 ECU (and should work for most obd1 ecu's with 4-wire controls)
Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14
Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground)
Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6
Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source.
(you may mix up the black wires(they are both black with no other markings)... if car dies after it is warm/10-30 seconds, that's the first thing to swap over/troubleshoot)

also may need to run a power wire to the fuel pump,it probably got cut when they took the efi loom out,its green/yellow near the RH side of the driver footwell

[Cro]

wats a p28 ecu is that obdIIa cos thats wat i got ..

[Lukezen27]

wats a p28 ecu is that obdIIa cos thats wat i got ..

P28 = obd1

[BaNaNaMaN]

Don't like to flood threads with pics etc. But I did a little "how to" for removing an EG dash a little while ago. Might help.

* note I had already removed a few bits, steering column surround (3 screws) and the glove box (2 screws)

First step is removing the steering wheel and indicator and light stalks.
(I decided since everyone has different steering wheels I would leave out removing my momo)
But here is the 3 screws needed to remove the indicator arms etc.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8590.jpg

Simply unplug the 4 plugs
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8591.jpg

Then remove the gauge cluster surround, there are two screws visable above the cluster

Remove the hazard light switch by using a small screw driver to pull the edges up and give a decent pull to get it out. Remove and unplug

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8568-1.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8572.jpg

That will reveal the hidden screw needed to be removed before the surround.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8573-1.jpg

Now the surround is a pretty tight fit. I found using a long flat head screw driver works best, just release the edges a bit at a time and pull the surround of.

Once you have got the surround free unplug the clock
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8576.jpg

Remove the electric window switch (if applicable)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8586.jpg

And the rear demister switch. (if applicable)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8589.jpg

Remove the upper vent (sorry no pics of removal)

Now there are two main plug junctions to be removed, the one from the dash to the fuse box.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8583.jpg

And the main junction behind the stereo location
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8594.jpg

You need to consider how your stereo is installed and how the arial cable is routed to make sure it is free when the dash is moved, and there is also a earth cable (which I didn't seem to get a pic of) that is located down below the gauge cluster

That completes the removal of the electrics. Now just the bolts.
All bolts are 10mm

10mm bolts on both sides.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8574.jpg

10mm bolts on the bottom at both sides.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8567.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8584.jpg

The top 10mm bolt behind the top vent
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8569.jpg

and the 10mm bolt below the stereo to floor
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8587.jpg

then the dash is free and remove.

Hope this helps with the number of people looking to swap black interior into eg's and ITR dash conversions.

Here is a pic of the dash removed
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/Bananaman_666/_DSC8599.jpg

[Cro]

mate thats totaly awsome that helps a hell of a lot cos ive got the carby car an ive brought the efi harness does all the a/c evaporator have to come out or can i slide it in behind all that cos ive herd i dont have to lose my a/c i can leave it all in tact an not disconnect any of the a/c lines ...

[BaNaNaMaN]

Glad it helped. If you want larger images (those are resized) flick me a pm with your email addy.

[teh_mechanic]

you dont have to remove any ac lines...the unit there on the firewall you are talking about is the heater box and the fan assembly,no a/c gas actually goes to these things,just electrical connections and a coolant water hose in and out for the heater.i found when i did my efi conversion that yes i did have to remove the heater box and fan assembly as the loom is bolted in a couple of places behind it,makes life alot easier if you take them out.make sure if you do take them out though that you are very careful not to bend/squash/snap the 2 copper pipes (water in and water out) going through the firewall for the heater box,remove the rubber hoses from them inside the engine bay carefully ,unbolt the box assembly and pull it out

[Cro]

yea thats sounds pretty sweet but also im a little worried about the fuel pump connector as i didnt get one an since the carby eg doesnt have a fuel pump in the tank it wont have wiring for it either hay ? so ill need to get a fuel pump connector an wire it up wont i ?