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View Full Version : My ED sedan build up **Update Problems**



sik-vic
26-01-2008, 01:46 PM
Hi everyone, been a newcomer here for a while, just thought id show you all what ive been doing in my holidays from work.....

this is when i bought the 4WD oops i mean ed civic, i could see the potential....
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9365/crustacularak8.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=crustacularak8.jpg)

wheel upgrade... speedy lite-fin... (yea i know it really needs lowering badly)
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/1265/litefinnewma4.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=litefinnewma4.jpg)

The heart donor....
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/214/cutxd6.th.jpg (http://img227.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cutxd6.jpg)

The motor with the mount kit, Rocker cover needs some lovin...
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3048/vtecyost0.th.jpg (http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vtecyost0.jpg)

Removal happening at the moment
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/2852/crustyrt2.th.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=crustyrt2.jpg)

Some stuff left over, Black EG6 dash and center console, carpet, B16a hydraulic gearbox, steering rack etc
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/5369/eg6dashyu1.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=eg6dashyu1.jpg)
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8297/hydrboxwo7.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hydrboxwo7.jpg)

Thats all for now, ill post some more pics when i get the motor in

YaMiKaZe
27-01-2008, 05:18 PM
niceee...u doing the swap urself?? gonna be a pain to convert to efi

sik-vic
27-01-2008, 11:52 PM
niceee...u doing the swap urself?? gonna be a pain to convert to efi


Thanks, yea i'm doin it all myself, the efi conversion is easy really, lift pump, surge tank, main pump, my mates doin the wiring.

sik-vic
28-01-2008, 12:12 AM
Todays progress...

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/1985/dirtybaypz3.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dirtybaypz3.jpg)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5145/newmotor1zs1.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=newmotor1zs1.jpg)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/7658/newmotorvq4.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=newmotorvq4.jpg)

SeverAMV
28-01-2008, 12:35 AM
rawr at b16a conversions... you can do a lot to the d15b for cheaper than a swap and still make the same power, if not more.

good luck with the conversion.

steve88
28-01-2008, 08:06 AM
thats a great swap! the old civics have potential to look great

sik-vic
28-01-2008, 09:44 AM
cheers steve, now gimme some lovin so i can trade on here ;)

VTi_b0i
28-01-2008, 09:56 AM
lol nice man... i was going to do this to my ED hatch... but lack of parts have made me give it away

sik-vic
28-01-2008, 10:12 AM
lol nice man... i was going to do this to my ED hatch... but lack of parts have made me give it away

Man there is an abundance of parts ..... In America, nah its not too bad there is most things available here in the land of Oz

sik-vic
03-02-2008, 09:42 PM
The engines all in ready to be wired, gave the bay a good clean...
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8941/p1000261us0.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1000261us0.jpg)
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/9229/p1000262qc1.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1000262qc1.jpg)

~Sp33~
03-02-2008, 11:55 PM
lol nice man... i was going to do this to my ED hatch... but lack of parts have made me give it away

Even after all that help we gave :o

sik-vic
25-02-2008, 12:33 PM
ordered some skunk2 coilovers yesterday, should take care of the height issue

teh_mechanic
25-02-2008, 08:51 PM
sucks to be your mate doing the wiring,i hated wiring my eg to efi,made me want to hit things lol

looking very good,that bay is smick,rocker cover does need some loving though,paint stripper,can of red wrinkle paint,and you win.

sik-vic
25-02-2008, 09:35 PM
sucks to be your mate doing the wiring,i hated wiring my eg to efi,made me want to hit things lol

looking very good,that bay is smick,rocker cover does need some loving though,paint stripper,can of red wrinkle paint,and you win.

Thanks mate, im tossing up between red and black, should really be black i guess..

sik-vic
29-02-2008, 08:50 PM
Got the car back today only to be extremely dissapointed. The cable box i bought for $800 is screwed!! Third gear synchro is completely gone!!!
Not happy, i now have to pull it out and send it interstate to be fixed... The other major issue i have is the viabration... Its terrible, the mount kit is so solid that the car cops all the viabration from the motor. I'm pretty spewin overall, was expecting anice smooth problem free ride but not to be...

destrukshn
29-02-2008, 09:17 PM
Got the car back today only to be extremely dissapointed. The cable box i bought for $800 is screwed!! Third gear synchro is completely gone!!!
Not happy, i now have to pull it out and send it interstate to be fixed... The other major issue i have is the viabration... Its terrible, the mount kit is so solid that the car cops all the viabration from the motor. I'm pretty spewin overall, was expecting anice smooth problem free ride but not to be...
i think you can get a hydro conversion kit from the states?

sik-vic
29-02-2008, 09:38 PM
i sold my hydro box...should of just bought the conversion kit

SeverAMV
01-03-2008, 09:40 AM
with the skunkies, you may need to cut the bumpstop. mine were fitted recently, and with just a 1 inch drop front and rear, the thing practically sits on the bumpstops.

sik-vic
02-03-2008, 12:45 AM
with the skunkies, you may need to cut the bumpstop. mine were fitted recently, and with just a 1 inch drop front and rear, the thing practically sits on the bumpstops.

thanks for the heads up :thumbsup:

What forks you using on the front??

SeverAMV
02-03-2008, 10:41 AM
they fit the 89-00 shock forks so as long as you have those it should be fine. rear shocks depend on which lca's you have, you want the one where the shocks sit outside the lca, not inside. you can always opt for the skunk2 lca's if you really want, it makes it look more bling.

the shocks included with the coilies are rather firm, and if you havent used them in a while, or have stored them sideways, you may want to pump them and then store them vertically, ie. push the damper shaft all the way down and let it decompress itself. do it about ten times per shock at least to get some air out (you'll know when you've done this properly when it decompresses faster), and then store them vertically.

egSi
02-03-2008, 03:38 PM
The other major issue i have is the viabration... Its terrible, the mount kit is so solid that the car cops all the viabration from the motor. I'm pretty spewin overall, was expecting anice smooth problem free ride but not to be...

i am sure most solid mount kits are like that. over time it will get better.

cool build :thumbsup:

sik-vic
02-03-2008, 05:08 PM
i am sure most solid mount kits are like that. over time it will get better.

cool build :thumbsup:

Thanks mate, I hope it breaks in a bit, I've only driven it about 3 kms, when i realised the box is screwed i took it home and havnt moved it since...
gotta pull the box out now :thumbdwn:

SeverAMV
02-03-2008, 05:17 PM
you probably shoulda stuck with a rubber mount kit. the ED6 chassis is getting old, perhaps too old for something that stiff, you may find it will weaken and possibly tear apart your chassis over time.

oh and one other thing, with the skunkies, you may want to invest in a front camber kit. my front is only lowered a little over an inch under stock, but the camber's stepped out to nearly 7 degrees. you cant adjust the camber with the factory camber arm, so yeah.

stk-civic
02-03-2008, 06:13 PM
Awesome man!!...
im looking for a EF/ED shell, so that i can so a swap with a crx wreck that i got.
i'll ask you if i run into anything troublesome ;)

sik-vic
02-03-2008, 09:01 PM
you probably shoulda stuck with a rubber mount kit. the ED6 chassis is getting old, perhaps too old for something that stiff, you may find it will weaken and possibly tear apart your chassis over time.

oh and one other thing, with the skunkies, you may want to invest in a front camber kit. my front is only lowered a little over an inch under stock, but the camber's stepped out to nearly 7 degrees. you cant adjust the camber with the factory camber arm, so yeah.

You cant have a rubber kit in the ed's, the b16 sits so close to the bonnet and the alternator pulley sits really close to the chassis so you cant afford to have any flex in the mounts... pretty rough, it should soften up i hope. As for the chassis strength I cant see it being much of an issue really the car is pretty low k's for its age and its not like there is a massive amount of power there.. only 125kw at the flywheel... Got any pics of the camber?

sik-vic
02-03-2008, 09:05 PM
Awesome man!!...
im looking for a EF/ED shell, so that i can so a swap with a crx wreck that i got.
i'll ask you if i run into anything troublesome ;)

I should be able to help quite a bit after doin most of the conversion myself... What location are you? I have a car you may be interested in, pm me if you like.

mclovin
02-03-2008, 09:59 PM
hey mate i know what you mean with the vibrations I had an EF hatch which i then fitted a B18C3 into with the exact same mount kit (except my ones were blue).

Being a daily driver i soon got over it as the vibrations at high RPM's were enough to loosen my teeth. I kep the car for a year but the mounts never really felt like they softened up (sorry to be a downer). That was the main reason i sold the car.

Spot on about the rubber mounts, NOT MUCH ROOM FOR MOVEMENT AFTER THIS KIND OF CONVERSION.

How did you go closing the bonnet once the engine was in, not sure if the deck heights of the B16 & B18 are the same.

Heres some pics of my conversion.

sik-vic
02-03-2008, 10:25 PM
hey mate i know what you mean with the vibrations I had an EF hatch which i then fitted a B18C3 into with the exact same mount kit (except my ones were blue).

Being a daily driver i soon got over it as the vibrations at high RPM's were enough to loosen my teeth. I kep the car for a year but the mounts never really felt like they softened up (sorry to be a downer). That was the main reason i sold the car.

Spot on about the rubber mounts, NOT MUCH ROOM FOR MOVEMENT AFTER THIS KIND OF CONVERSION.

How did you go closing the bonnet once the engine was in, not sure if the deck heights of the B16 & B18 are the same.

Heres some pics of my conversion.[/B]

Pretty sure B18's are a bit taller, i can shut the bonnet no problem but its close. I dont know if I'm gonna be able to handle it viabrating..... the motor could definatly do with a tuning tho it is running a bit rough and the idle is set to low which would add to the problem i'm guessing, I wont be doing anything about it until i install my coilovers and put the fixed gearbox back in...

I cant see any pictures??

mclovin
03-03-2008, 07:02 AM
sorry havin probs uploadin fotos. will try again

mclovin
03-03-2008, 07:18 AM
8157

8158

8159

8160


here are the pics of my conversion. idle is easy to adjust as there is an idle speed screw on the throttle body. cant remember which way to turn it but just try both directions and you will hear the idle either slow down or go faster. i had the exact same prob when i first started my car. Sucks about the gearbox mate, hope it all goes well for you.

sik-vic
03-03-2008, 10:32 AM
Cheers mclovin, Its gonna be a lot more work on my hands now, the place i bought it from should pay for my time to remove/replace in my opinion. Its such and inconveniance, imagine if i couldnt do it myself and i had to pay someone... then it would be a shitfight

mclovin
03-03-2008, 08:14 PM
sucks when shit like that happens and theres no point even takin it back cause they never want a bar of it. what king of box did you use?? i fitted an LS cable clutch gearbox to mine as ive been told that they are one of the strongest honda brought out. (tore it down and rebuilt it b4 fitting) just cant trust that suppliers have actually tested them.

sik-vic
03-03-2008, 10:20 PM
The place i bought it from offered to fix it and send it back to me, i just hope they do it properly and do it quickly, and yea its an s1 gearbox, i think LS ITR, the ratios seem wierd too, when i drove it home on a highway the engine rpm whilst in 5th doing 100km/h was about 3250-3300, seems too high...

mclovin
03-03-2008, 10:32 PM
thats the thing, you usually get 1 thing or the other. too quick = bad job, too slow = well do i have to say it. its easy enough to do it urself but y should you.

i found my gear ratio was fine although cant really remember that well.

maybe its cause your using a 1.8l box for a 1.6l.= engine having to work harder to get to those speeds while 1.8 doesnt need to.

bizee_1
05-03-2008, 09:23 PM
...and yea its an s1 gearbox, i think LS ITR, the ratios seem wierd too, when i drove it home on a highway the engine rpm whilst in 5th doing 100km/h was about 3250-3300, seems too high...

that seems about right for me. i think 110km/h is about 3700-4000rpm.
i am running the ys1 g/box.

http://www.teirney.net/civic/GearboxRatioReference.htm

SeverAMV
07-03-2008, 09:26 AM
You cant have a rubber kit in the ed's, the b16 sits so close to the bonnet and the alternator pulley sits really close to the chassis so you cant afford to have any flex in the mounts... pretty rough, it should soften up i hope. As for the chassis strength I cant see it being much of an issue really the car is pretty low k's for its age and its not like there is a massive amount of power there.. only 125kw at the flywheel... Got any pics of the camber?

ahhh, almost forgot you have a b series motor. my d series should make that much power at the wheels once i get the ignition timing tuned and the new carbs fitted, hehe.

but even with a d series, the alternator sits close to the chassis. its not so much the flex that you would want a rubber kit for, its the absorption. rubber absorbs vibrations which can reduce stress on a lot of parts. at worst, you can always fit rubber mounts and then silkaflex it a little to reduce flex without reducing absorption too much.

it should be okay that the chassis looks good, but its the bits that you cant see that you should be worried about. internal rust is often undetectable until it snaps. altho rubber mounts wont really do much in this case.

oh and i havent got any pictures of the camber on my wheels, but its at 7 degrees at the moment. i'm gonna need a fair bit more castor, as my coilovers seem to increase the effect of some inertial tendencies. good thing about the camber is that it keeps my tread under my guard, so its essentially keeping my car legal.

sik-vic
07-03-2008, 05:53 PM
ahhh, almost forgot you have a b series motor. my d series should make that much power at the wheels once i get the ignition timing tuned and the new carbs fitted, hehe.



How much fuel you reckon you'll use with those quad carbs to make the same power as the b series? :p Hate to have your fuel bill and make the same power as a stock as a rock b series... 7 degrees seems way extreme for only lowering 1 inch from stock, ive lowered a heap of cars including a crx with the same chassis as our sedans and never seen 7 degrees - camber, some pics would be nice

SeverAMV
07-03-2008, 11:45 PM
How much fuel you reckon you'll use with those quad carbs to make the same power as the b series? :p Hate to have your fuel bill and make the same power as a stock as a rock b series... 7 degrees seems way extreme for only lowering 1 inch from stock, ive lowered a heap of cars including a crx with the same chassis as our sedans and never seen 7 degrees - camber, some pics would be nice

lol, you read wrong, i said i should be making that power (125kw) at the wheels, which means it will be better than a b series, but when i add up the costs, i shouldve just bought a better car, like an sw20 mr2 or something, because it sure as hell wasnt worth it. the whole engine build only cost around 3-4k to make more power and more response than a b series by using a d series, but there are much better cars out there that make the same power from factory.

fuel bill wont be too bad. altho theyre racing versions of the carbs used by ferrari, fuel consumption isnt gonna be bad once its all fitted and tuned. should use about the same amount of fuel as b-series, or maybe a 2.0L motor, but the response will be nice. it should improve my already-wide powerband.

sik-vic
08-03-2008, 06:46 PM
lol, you read wrong, i said i should be making that power (125kw) at the wheels, which means it will be better than a b series, but when i add up the costs, i shouldve just bought a better car, like an sw20 mr2 or something, because it sure as hell wasnt worth it. the whole engine build only cost around 3-4k to make more power and more response than a b series by using a d series, but there are much better cars out there that make the same power from factory.

fuel bill wont be too bad. altho theyre racing versions of the carbs used by ferrari, fuel consumption isnt gonna be bad once its all fitted and tuned. should use about the same amount of fuel as b-series, or maybe a 2.0L motor, but the response will be nice. it should improve my already-wide powerband.

So you r saying you are going from 72kw at the flywheel to 125kw at the wheels??? spending 3-4k?? out of a d15b?? thats more than a 100% increase from stock, i dont think fuel and reliability/longevity will be all that good... each to their own...

SeverAMV
09-03-2008, 12:34 AM
So you r saying you are going from 72kw at the flywheel to 125kw at the wheels??? spending 3-4k?? out of a d15b?? thats more than a 100% increase from stock, i dont think fuel and reliability/longevity will be all that good... each to their own...

its suprisingly good, aside from having trouble finding a good d-series clutch. i had the whole engine rebuilt, head worked, block honed a little as well as a blockguard, pistons are p29 as part of the fjt all motor superkit, which conveniently included a 0.030" 3 layer metal head gasket so its fairly stable and running a compression ratio of around 11-12:1 with a little head milling. lumpy cams plus quad carbs helps with the rest of the power. another major problem is that my car isnt really designed to put that much power to the floor (from factory) so i may need an lsd to make it run faster.

it takes a fair bit of work to make a d series beat a b series, but then again, most people spend more just doing a b series conversion.

chingaling
19-03-2008, 02:50 AM
hey sorry to ask.. do u guys find hard to turn in low speed seems like ur steering wheel is pulling or sth lol , or just me ?? coz mine have no P/S i can feel every single bit of action....

mclovin
19-03-2008, 01:37 PM
hey sorry to ask.. do u guys find hard to turn in low speed seems like ur steering wheel is pulling or sth lol , or just me ?? coz mine have no P/S i can feel every single bit of action....
__________________
おいおい。。。峠いくか????

normal side effect from removing p/steer.

chingaling
19-03-2008, 01:57 PM
hey sorry to ask.. do u guys find hard to turn in low speed seems like ur steering wheel is pulling or sth lol , or just me ?? coz mine have no P/S i can feel every single bit of action....
__________________
おいおい。。。峠いくか????

normal side effect from removing p/steer.



sorry my car came factoury without P/S and when i had my old carby engine it didn't have this problem ... :zip: but yeh ... sall good just wanna ask :D

SeverAMV
19-03-2008, 04:45 PM
mine has power steering, but i wish my car would wanna pull straight, not enough castor with the coilovers, so my car wants to corner! have you wheel alignment checked, could be irregular toe or castor.

stk-civic
26-04-2008, 01:47 AM
hey buddy, i call on you for help like i promised earlier!! :)
Just wondering if i would have to change my fuel lines on the ED carbie hatch to the crx EFi lines?

sik-vic
26-04-2008, 10:08 PM
Most of the line is metal mate, only have to change over to efi line from the tank to the pump if you go external, then pump to a metal line which runs all the way along the chassis into the engine bay, then efi line to the fuel rail, return line to carbon cannister, cannister to another metal line back to the tank.

stk-civic
29-05-2008, 11:50 PM
hey dude, i need your knowledge again. i have searched but i can't find anything that i needed coz all D to B-series mounts

im putting a D16A8 from 88 CRX into a 88 civic with a D15B, i was just wondering is it the same engine mounts?
Are all D-series mounts universal to all D-series motors?
i'll be getting new OEM ones for cheap but i have to be 100% sure they are the right ones coz i can't return them.
Cheers man

SeverAMV
30-05-2008, 04:06 PM
if you have the d16a8 on you, check the mounting locations and compare it with the factory mounts. as far as i know, pretty much all d series mounts should be the same.

oh and i recommend getting rubber mounts, or hard rubber at best. polyurethane will rattle too much and wear down the chassis too quickly.

stk-civic
31-05-2008, 06:20 PM
Alrite...will do
thnx man